DOHC 4.6L V8 build

[2000StreetRod]

I'm using a Mach 1 OEM windage tray and the special ARP main bolt set for it. The Aviator comes stock with a high volume pump compared to the Explorer and the oil pickup tube that mates with the oil pump is a larger diameter. As I recall I looked at the MMR and the Canton windage trays. I think all of them require modifying the stock Aviator pickup tube (remove one of the baffles). I think I paid $60 for the used Mach 1 tray purchased via eBay.

 

[jd4242]

I'm using a Mach 1 OEM windage tray and the special ARP main bolt set for it. The Aviator comes stock with a high volume pump compared to the Explorer and the oil pickup tube that mates with the oil pump is a larger diameter. As I recall I looked at the MMR and the Canton windage trays. I think all of them require modifying the stock Aviator pickup tube (remove one of the baffles). I think I paid $60 for the used Mach 1 tray purchased via eBay.

Is the pump different from the mustangs pumps? size wise is the pickup different from the mustangs ? ? i know some have different pick ups but never heard of a pump difference or that the aviators had a high volume one.

I wonder if its cheaper to get the MMR kit and regular ARP main bolts..is the special ARP kit much more expensive ?

 

[2000StreetRod]

I suspect that all of the DOHC V8s have the larger diameter oil pickup tube and higher flow oil pump. I paid $240 for the ARP main bolt kit that fits the Mach 1 windage tray and that kit does not include the side bolts.

 

[jd4242]

I suspect that all of the DOHC V8s have the larger diameter oil pickup tube and higher flow oil pump. I paid $240 for the ARP main bolt kit that fits the Mach 1 windage tray and that kit does not include the side bolts.

Hmm i thought only the cobras got the high flow pumps and also the 15/16" pick up.. ive been doing some research as i may need one to run my vortech,if the aviators do come with one that would save me some money..MMR sells just the gears for like $30

 

[2000StreetRod]

Tasca shows the P/N for the 2003 Aviator oil pump as F8OZ6600AA. Same as for the 2003-2004 Mustang GT, Mach 1 and Cobra. Its also used on the Marauder, Grand Marquis, Crown Victoria and E350s. That's the reason I purchased an Aviator pickup tube instead of an Explorer.

 

[jd4242]

Tasca shows the P/N for the 2003 Aviator oil pump as F8OZ6600AA. Same as for the 2003-2004 Mustang GT, Mach 1 and Cobra. Its also used on the Marauder, Grand Marquis, Crown Victoria and E350s. That's the reason I purchased an Aviator pickup tube instead of an Explorer.

Awesome . .thats great news for me.again great info and details , thanks

 

[2000StreetRod]

The rotating assembly is finally installed and I still can manually rotate the crankshaft.

I've resumed work on the windage tray and the oil pickup tube. I found out from Tasca Parts that the hexagon spacer is M8-1.25x19 and the P/N is N806180S2 but they didn't have one in stock. The M8-1.25x16 bolt that fastens the oil pickup tube to the hexagon spacer has been discontinued. I found a M8-1.25x20 hex coupler (links two threaded rods together) online for $3.84 but the shipping was $11.00 so I made a trip to my local Ford dealer and ordered the part for $14.59. It should be here tomorrow. I purchased 2 M6-1.0x30 bolts at my local discount auto parts store but they are too long (specified is 27.5mm) bottom out and I can't shorten them because they are not fully threaded. I'll pick up some M6-1.0x25 tomorrow if I can find full threaded ones. In the meantime I'm using M10 nuts as spacers under the bolt heads. The aft (third) blade on the oil pickup tube interferes with the windage tray.

The aft blade is also bent which compounds the problem.

Straightening the blade with a large adjustable open end wrench made a negligible improvement. When the pan is installed it is resting on the oil pickup tube.

Since the aft blade overlaps the windage tray I've decided to just remove enough of the blade to eliminate any interference.

 

[2000StreetRod]

I picked up the hex spacer this morning. Turns out it is 37.5 mm long instead of the 19 mm I was told by Tasca. I should have realized that since the top bolt has a 16 mm thread length. I filed the edge smooth after cutting off the aft blade of the oil pickup tube.

I did a test fit and there is inadequate clearance between the pickup tube bottom and the pan. I'll have to determine how much to shorten the spacer. The 6-1.0x25 flange bolts I purchased this morning work fine at the oil pump end of the pickup tube.

 

[2000StreetRod]

With the spacer in place there is about .025 inches between the lip of the oil pan and the mounting block face. The oil pan gasket I purchased has metal inserts to prevent collapsing the gasket.

The gasket metal inserts are .125 inches thick resulting in a gap of only .100 inches between the pickup tube screen and the bottom of the pan. So I'm going to shorten the hex spacer .250 inches which will result in a total gap of .350 inches.

 

[2000StreetRod]

After the spacer was shortened the oil pickup tube support bar rested on the windage tray ridge so I bent the support bar to conform to the shape of the windage tray.

Another problem is the excess length of the studs. I had to shorten the 16 mm long spacer bolt to keep it from bottoming against the stud bolt. The arrow on the right above shows that the tube is resting against the windage tray. The only way to lower the tube is to shift the tube outward. However, to do that I had to remove more of the aft blade on the tube and bend the middle blade inward since it was against the inside of the block.

Now there is .240 inch clearance between the pickup tube screen and the bottom of the pan. With the pan gasket in place the clearance will increase to .365 inch.

 

[2000StreetRod]

After finishing the oil pickup tube installation I installed the head guide dowels and positioned the multi-layer steel head gasket and then the head.

While performing the time consuming task of lubricating the head bolts and then screwing them in and out of the block twice to make sure that there was no binding I got to thinking about the investment I have in this engine and the oil pump. The engine had spinning rod bearings and there was major wear to the bearings and the crankshaft. The tiny metal fragments would drain into the oil pan, pass thru the oil pickup tube screen and into the oil pump. After passing thru the pump they would be trapped by the oil filter which is why there was no noticeable damage to the camshaft cap and head bearing surfaces. However, the particles would have been damaging the oil pump so I ordered a new Melling M227 pump this afternoon. Its supposed to fit the Aviator and other engines with the larger diameter (15/16 inch) outlet. It won't be here until Jan 3 but I'll be enjoying family and Christmas activities the next couple of days and it will take me a few days to install and finish assembling the heads. I also ordered a set of new OEM timing cover bolts from Modular Motorsports Racing (MMR). The new timing cover I purchased ages ago came with new gaskets but no crankshaft front seal so I picked one up at Advance Auto.

 

[jd4242]

Which head gaskets you using?

 

[2000StreetRod]

FelPro PermaTorque MLS. I purchased them when Rock Auto had them on sale a while back.

 

[2000StreetRod]

I still haven't torqued down my head bolts because of some issues. I didn't purchase the ARP head studs/nuts because they are expensive and I was afraid I would not be able to remove/install the heads with the engine in the vehicle because the engine is a tight fit. One of the FelPro head bolts I purchased is shown below - the one on top. I was disappointed that it does not have the integral washer that the OEM bolt has - the one on the bottom.

The useable length of the FelPro bolt is about .020 inches less than the OEM bolt and the threaded length is at least .250 inch longer. Since I was told only .006 to .008 inches was removed from the block deck and the head face for a max total of .016 inches there should not be a problem. However, 4 of the 5 outboard bolts on each head are binding before the bolt face contacts the mating surface of the head. This would result in inaccurate torque readings if the bolts were tightened. I used a wire to check the depth of the hole and determined the bolts were not bottoming out. Since the threaded length of the FelPro bolts is significantly longer than stock then that can't be the cause. The machine shop was supposed the chase the threads after tanking and milling the block but that may not have happened on all of the outboard holes. Or, more may have been milled off the heads and block then I was told. Another possibility is that the FelPro head gaskets are thinner than stock. If either is the case then the compression ratio will be greater than I planned and its a good thing there are valve reliefs in the pistons. Anyway, I decided to prevent the bolt faces from galling the softer aluminum mating surface by purchasing and installing a grade 8, .060 inch thick, 7/16 inch dia. washer on each bolt.

 

[Number4]

2000StreetRod, did you purchase the coolant flow mod? I'm a little unsure browsing the thread whether you did or not.

I thought all 4.6/5.4 DOHC engines were prone to burning up the #8 exhaust valve because of the dead flow in the drivers head.

Also, in '04, the Navi's went to a three valve setup from the four valve didn't they? Is this the "fix" you were mentioning?

 

[2000StreetRod]

The parts I purchased for the cooling mod are shown here: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums...xt-project-vehicle.417189/page-9#post-3569179
The 2005 heads were redesigned to reduce the problem but mine engine is from a 2003. I'm not familiar with the Navigator configurations.

 

[2000StreetRod]

I received the new Melling M227 oil pump and it has the correct 15/16 inch dia. oil pickup tube port. I bought the pump online from PepBoys and was disappointed it didn't come with a new O-ring. My local O-Reilly Auto parts had a good selection and I was able to find a match. I removed the oil pickup tube, old oil pump and then installed the new pump and oil pickup tube with new O-ring.

Continuing with the heads I removed the cam sprockets retaining bolts which had not been tightened by the head machine shop. Then I used a C clamp to compress the passenger side cam chain tensioner.

When compressed far enough the hole in the tensioner aligns with one in the backing plate and a large paper clip can be installed to hold it in position. Then I installed it on the head. I aligned the camshafts so the notches were below the camshaft axes and perpendicular to the head surface that mates with the valve covers. The chains have very little slack so it is necessary to get the sprockets spaced correctly in the chain before installing the assembly.

Then I just pulled out the paper clip and the chain was tensioned. In my opinion Ford incorrectly designed the passenger side tensioner. It can only be mounted with the tensioner piston protruding downward which is the traction side of the chain since the large cam drive sprocket mounts on the outboard/exhaust camshaft. The movable section of the chain tensioner should always be on the slack side where there is less chain tension. That way camshaft timing is maintained when engine speed is constant or accelerating. The shop manual states that the bolts shown below should be torqued to 30 lb-ft and then another 90 degrees.

The mark on the large sprocket indicates where the keyway on the crankshaft points when piston 1 is at TDC. Since I don't have the special tool that clamps the cams I used two locking pliers and a block of wood to keep them from damaging the head surface that mates with the valve cover.

The locking pliers began to slip on the cam before I could achieve the 90 degrees but the torque exceeded 80 lb-ft. Since the sprockets are all keyed I decided that was adequate.
The driver side tensioner is designed correctly with the piston extending to the slack side of the chain since the drive sprocket is on the outboard/exhaust cam.

 

[jd4242]

I received the new Melling M227 oil pump and it has the correct 15/16 inch dia. oil pickup tube port. I bought the pump online from PepBoys and was disappointed it didn't come with a new O-ring. My local O-Reilly Auto parts had a good selection and I was able to find a match. I removed the oil pickup tube, old oil pump and then installed the new pump and oil pickup tube with new O-ring.

Continuing with the heads I removed the cam sprockets retaining bolts which had not been tightened by the head machine shop. Then I used a C clamp to compress the passenger side cam chain tensioner.
View attachment 94876
When compressed far enough the hole in the tensioner aligns with one in the backing plate and a large paper clip can be installed to hold it in position. Then I installed it on the head. I aligned the camshafts so the notches were below the camshaft axes and perpendicular to the head surface that mates with the valve covers. The chains have very little slack so it is necessary to get the sprockets spaced correctly in the chain before installing the assembly.
View attachment 94877
Then I just pulled out the paper clip and the chain was tensioned. In my opinion Ford incorrectly designed the passenger side tensioner. It can only be mounted with the tensioner piston protruding downward which is the traction side of the chain since the large cam drive sprocket mounts on the outboard/exhaust camshaft. The movable section of the chain tensioner should always be on the slack side where there is less chain tension. That way camshaft timing is maintained when engine speed is constant or accelerating. The shop manual states that the bolts shown below should be torqued to 30 lb-ft and then another 90 degrees.
View attachment 94878
The mark on the large sprocket indicates where the keyway on the crankshaft points when piston 1 is at TDC. Since I don't have the special tool that clamps the cams I used two locking pliers and a block of wood to keep them from damaging the head surface that mates with the valve cover.
View attachment 94879
The locking pliers began to slip on the cam before I could achieve the 90 degrees but the torque exceeded 80 lb-ft. Since the sprockets are all keyed I decided that was adequate.
The driver side tensioner is designed correctly with the piston extending to the slack side of the chain since the drive sprocket is on the outboard/exhaust cam.
View attachment 94882

MMR makes a tensioner that applies pressure the correct way..this is a issue for the new 5.0 motors also..

Trick i learned to get the gear to align up to put the sprockets on is to put the chain and gear on the shafts and then without the spacers put the bolts in.the take two sockets and drivers and place on each bolt..you then can turn the cams and slide the gears over the key way,once on take bolts back out,install spacers and pull tensioner pin..also there is a trick to safely put the main chain on without a holder or risking valves hitting the pistons

 

[2000StreetRod]

I hate to purchase specialty tools unless it is absolutely necessary. I don't have to worry about valve to piston interference yet because none of the cam followers are installed.

My new crankshaft did not come with a woodruff key so I had to order a package of two from the Ford dealer. P/N is F1AZ-6B316-AA.

I tapped into the crankshaft slot.

I haven't test fit the crankshaft sprocket yet. The key looks like it might be a little high. Do you know which way the crankshaft sprocket goes? Does the flange without the sprocket go forward? The Aviator shop manual words don't match the drawing and I wouldn't trust it anyway. One drawing showed the driver side large sprocket being installed on the inboard camshaft. The 2003 Explorer shop manual contains the same crankshaft sprocket conflicting explanation and drawing.
EDIT: Never mind. My 2002 Explorer shop manual CD has the same drawing but the text states that the timing mark on the sprocket should face forward. The arrow in the drawing is to identify the timing mark and not the direction of forward or aft.

 

[jd4242]

I hate to purchase specialty tools unless it is absolutely necessary. I don't have to worry about valve to piston interference yet because none of the cam followers are installed.

My new crankshaft did not come with a woodruff key so I had to order a package of two from the Ford dealer. P/N is F1AZ-6B316-AA.
View attachment 94884
I tapped into the crankshaft slot.
View attachment 94885
I haven't test fit the crankshaft sprocket yet. The key looks like it might be a little high. Do you know which way the crankshaft sprocket goes? Does the flange without the sprocket go forward? The Aviator shop manual words don't match the drawing and I wouldn't trust it anyway. One drawing showed the driver side large sprocket being installed on the inboard camshaft. The 2003 Explorer shop manual contains the same crankshaft sprocket conflicting explanation and drawing.
EDIT: Never mind. My 2002 Explorer shop manual CD has the same drawing but the text states that the timing mark on the sprocket should face forward. The arrow in the drawing is to identify the timing mark and not the direction of forward or aft.

My memory card just went out,says "" corrupted"" and just lost 32 gigs of pictures. .im trying to see if i can save it some how..

I know i have pictures of it but off hand i dont remember. .the timing dots go out i remember that