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Dreaming of one mean 4.0: The Build up - Creager's 1992 Sport

Bleed? Like turn key on, check for pressure at shrader valve (or however its spelled), turn key on again?

Hehe, that reminds me i gotta drop the gas tank and drain all the old 89 out.

Tons of progress, no pictures! Hehe, camera is with someone else at the mommet so ill get more pics later.

Timing cover is torqued down, same with the oilpan. I got the heads (with pre-compressed gaskets) and the rockerarms on finger-tight. I am going to put a roll of molding clay on all the pistons, torque the heads and rocker shafts down, and crank the engine over a few times. That should give me a good indication of how close my valves are comming to the pistons. From there ill get any work done that may be needed, but im pretty sure this step is just going to be an extra pre-causion. Ill try to get some pics of this when i do it later.

Once the heads are bolted down with fresh gaskets and head bolts, I'll say this thing is practically wrapped up! Time to get this sucker in the truck!
 



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Creager said:
Hehe, that reminds me i gotta drop the gas tank and drain all the old 89 out.

QUOTE]

That sounds like work. Dump some octane booster, or toluene, etc. in with what you've got, it will be just fine. or top up with race gas. The difference from 89 to 91 octane is not exactly huge anyway.
 






Bleed as in turn the key on and open the shraeder valve until you get a steady stream of fuel then start it. that would also be a good way to get rid of the old 89, let the pump do the work for you. If you need any more of the manual let me know, good luck with the rest.
 






Thats such a great idea, hahaha, easy way to be lazy!
 






Yall are going to hate this, but my digital camera went out of town! Yep, the camera got swipped by its owner and is enroute to whereever they are going for vacation. Heh, i got some good pics last night of me installing the heads and whatnot too.

I tried the clay idea, didnt work as good as i thought it would. My valves didnt even touch the clay! The book said the exhaust valve may come within .1" of the piston, at the very least or closest. The intake may come .080" at its very closest. I used a ~1/4 "(.25"-3") thick peice of clay and didnt get any indention after torquing the heads down and turning the crank over. They were denfinatly opening and closing, if anything they could be opening more (comming closer to the piston) since I had the heads milled a tiny bit (.0001"), and they were also milled by the previous guy. 5.525" smithbros pushrods, 422 cam... I cant really adjust anything other then getting the valves machined lower, I think its good. All i know is my valves and pistons will not come in contact!

The heads and lower intake are torqued down. The book said to alternate steps between torquing the heads and the intake, togeather. Im about to go torque down the rockarms and pushrods, which will button up the motor!

After that ill get the valve covers on, and clip-in the fuel injectors into wiring harness. Once the injectors are connected to the harness, ill torque down the upper intake. I think it will be eaiser to put the wiring harness first, since the upper intake makes it kind of tight under there.

Maybe ill try a wal-mart disposable camera. hahah
 






Update 07-0206

This thing is practically wrapped up. I've busted ass the past couple days, and without the guidence of a camera, knocked this sucker out. Camera wont be back until tomorrow, so ill try to hold myself back from 'droppin 'er in' so you guys can atleast see how it looks chillin' on the engine stand. I'm quite amazed how nice this thing is all buttoned up. The red/silver two tone looks much better then i anticipated.

Only things that are not done...
- Alternator/Belt tensonier bracket is not bolted on
- Power Steering/Compressor bracket isnt bolted on
- Idler pulley
- Flywheel/Clutch/Starter/Tranny ( - engine not in truck yet!)

... and thats about it.

The engine is togeather, from the lower intake to the spark plug wires, to the water pump. The wiring harness is all cleaned up and ran as close to factoryish as i could get it. I went through the harness and 'repaired' a few spots where the loom was cracked/missing/falling apart. Eletrical tape should hold up :p I might end up patching up the loom and whatnot again if i can find something like the armored tape they use from the factory. heheh
 






What fuel are you gunna use? no more 89 for the new engine huh?....I see some people talkin bout 93.....where do you guys get 93 from? or is it just 91 with octane boosters.....sorry if this is a dumb question
 






Creager said:
Camera wont be back until tomorrow, so ill try to hold myself back from 'droppin 'er in' so you guys can atleast see how it looks chillin' on the engine stand. I'm quite amazed how nice this thing is all buttoned up. The red/silver two tone looks much better then i anticipated.
I don't think it would hurt anyones feelings for you to put it in today and just post pictures of it all finished up tomorrow. :D
 






Actually i've never seen 91 =) only 93, definatly going to run 93 on the break in. I like the idea of bleeding most the old 89 out via fuel rail. Ill throw in some octane boosters to 'make sure,' then top of the tank 93. At most there is 3-5 gallons of 89 left.

heheh, we'll see if i cant get this in tonight =P
 






another thing to pay attention to when doing the startup/breakin thing is keep the radiator cap off for the first few mins its running to let air bubbles work their way out of the radiator....add coolant as the level drops. Then cap it off as it starts to warm up.
 






It might be a good idea to replace the fuel filter after you run a tank through it.
 






oh maybe they only have 91 in Cali? ive never seen 93....id like to run some of that...mmmmmmm ....drop in that motor and lets hear about the power!! haha
 






i got the engine in the truck, but im so drunk right now i coudlnt tell oyu where everytyhing ssle goes.
 












Im just posting to see how this turns out. I cant wait to see it and have Creager start rebuilding mine. Now, i read a few post back that the pinging could be caused by the lower intake carbon buildup? my sounds like a diesel when under heavy throttle (passing, accelerating)....could that be causing it? if so, how do i clean it?
 






Creager said:
I tried the clay idea, didnt work as good as i thought it would. My valves didnt even touch the clay!
Without the hydraulic lifters being 'pumped up' wouldn't that test be inaccurate?
 






Jefe said:
Without the hydraulic lifters being 'pumped up' wouldn't that test be inaccurate?

That's a good question. The book i was reading didnt really get into detail. Do you know how much bigger/taller those things may usually get once they are full or whatever? I know i have atleast .3" (maybe as much as .5" now that i think about it) of distance between the valve and the piston, the book generalized that distance may be .08" and .1" at its very closest.

Welp im at a minior set back, one of the holes for the tranny bolts on the oil pan stripped out. The book says 18-38ftlbs on these bolts. I got the sucker to no more then 5-10 when it just gave out, haha. Heli-coil should work.

Otherwise, the transmission is up there and splined in. I still need to get the A/C togeather, bleed the power steering, and bleed the clutch slave. The only things not bolted on are the starter, condensor, radiator, fan, shroud, and the intake. I'm going to go back and try to re-route a few writes/hoses before i button up everything, but for the most part all that stuff is in good locations. The momment of truth is upon us!! Can creager build an engine?

P.S. i got the camera back, pics later.
 






NICE59FORDF100 said:
Im just posting to see how this turns out. I cant wait to see it and have Creager start rebuilding mine. Now, i read a few post back that the pinging could be caused by the lower intake carbon buildup? my sounds like a diesel when under heavy throttle (passing, accelerating)....could that be causing it? if so, how do i clean it?

The carbon is definatly causing something, hehe. Its not that hard to clean, taking all that stuff apart looks more complicated then it actually is. You would need to get a few gaskets and seals first. Two upper upper-intake gaskets, valve covers gaskets, the lower intake gasket, and fuel injector o-rings. You gotta remove the valve covers to get the lower intake off. The upper intake is six 15(?)mm nuts, the lower intake is like 6 bolts and 2 nuts. The fuel rail takes a star-socket, E14 or something like that, its not very big. The fuel injectors will pop out, and can be cleaned. Seafoam + Steelwoll will get those intakes clean as new. Laquor would help tremendously. Once you have gotton it down to factory metal, rinse with soap and water.

But once you get all that stuff apart you are going to notice the heads are as about as clogged up as the everything else. I dont know if you want to go into a very extensive cleaning with the heads bolted onto the block. Maybe some laquor and lint free rags, clean around the port openings and down the runners a tad, but thats all you probably should do to avoid getting too much junk in the engine. Actually, if you take your heads off, your pistons are just as dirty. Cleaning all that stuff would probably make any tired 4.0 run like new. Add some new rocker-arms, pushrods, and valve springs into the mix and that 4.0 would run like new, haha.
 






bleed the clutch slave?

When I did the rebuild on my transmission, the Ford Factory Manual specifically said even after disconnecting, and reconnecting the hydraulic line, under 'normal conditions', there is no need to bleed the system.

I disconnected my slave using a couple of flathead screwdrivers, forcing that ring inside. When it came time to re-assemble the trans, I just pushed the hose back in place. No Bleeding.....Clutch works perfectly.

Ryan
 



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really? thats awesome. well see here. I just got the heli-coil for the trans bolt. lets see how this works out.

it is a new slave, would that matter?
 






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