Driver Door Numeric Keypad Code

[victrola]

Hey folks - I just bought a used '95 Explorer Sport. Unfortunately the previous owner did not see fit to provide the master code for the keyless entry. Does anyone know of another way to find out what it is without taking it to the dealer and having them charge $60 to extract it? Thanks!

Buck Winslow

 

[TPLYNCH]

If it's not with the owners manual, then you have to look on the controller in the back rear quarter panel above the wheelwell. Will help to have a flashlight, and a small mirror. If you USE THE SEARCH button above, you can find numerous threads about how to find it and reprogram the pad.

 

[Gixxer1000]

The factory code is on a plastic card (about the size of a business card) that came with the owners manual.

 

[davidmmm69]

in the rear under the plastic on the drivers side ..
take a flashlight and look inside the compartment whrer the jack is and look hard it is far up but you can see it it is on white sticker..
it is there...

 

[dcsmrgun]

The thing that has to be mentioned is that if the alarm box is anything like mine, the sticker was facing outward into the cabin, completely obstructed by the trim panel. What you may have to do is pull back on the trim panel until you can make out what the sticker says. Either that or remove the panel altogether.

I searched these threads 2 or 3 times before i realized someone said that. Before then I was constantly looking on the side of the alarm box that I could see and was disappointed that I didn't find the sticker.

I drive an XLT and not a sport, but hopefully that gives you some insight!

If you're not sure which one the alarm box is (there really should only be one box back there, but what do i know), climb into the back and hit your remote lock button. You will hear a faint relay click. Don't confuse this with the sound of your doors locking. The relay is in the alarm box, so if you can find that you should be good.

 

[gijoecam]

Pics are in teh gallery in my signature.

-Joe

 

[Ish man]

I just did mine last week...took about 20 minutes to find and move the box. I removed one of the bolts to the security box so I could move it into a better position. If it is anything like the 97...it was a 5 digit code in bold numbers. I heard someone saying theirs were 4 numbers. May be variable dependent on the year of the Explorer. Good lock I mean luck.

Ish

 

[victrola]

Got IT!

Thanks for the information, folks. My problem was that none of the owners manuals or any records were available for the vehicle. I don't understand people who don't pass this stuff on to the next owner, but anyway . . .

I took a dental mirror and a flashlight and was able to find the code without having to remove the panel or move the alarm box. It took about 3 or 4 minutes to find the right numbers and read them backwards. LOL. Mission accomplished!

It's nice to find som many helpful people participating in these forums. You just saved me $60 and after buying a new fuel pump, that's a very nice thing. Thanks!

Buck

 

[gijoecam]

Glad we could help!

-Joe

 

[Holger]

Hi

I have a general question about the keypad.
Sometimes it would be possible that I can´t open the Explorer with the remote control
because there are other disturbing radio waves.
Is it possible to open and deactivating the alarm system and the electronic immobiliser
with the keypad in this particular case?
Thx

regards
Holger

 

[gijoecam]

It depends on what model year Explorer you have. The second generation Explorers (95-01) have the keypad hard-wired to the RAP module which controls the remote entry and keyless entry. In that case, the keyless entry keypad works all the time, and yes, it will work even if the remotes will not. On the third generation Explorers (-02-up) the keypad is not ahrd-wired and acts like another remote. In that case, if it's the radio waves preventing the door from opening, it won't work.

Just out of curiosity, what kind of radio waves are you dealing with? I used to live under the high tension power lines and never had a problem.

-Joe

 

[Holger]

Hi Joe

thx for your answer! I have had think that the keypad is always wireless, also for the
second Explorer-generation too. My Explorer is from early 1998. When I look at ebay
there where keypads for the Explorer to install without drilling for cars from 1998-xxxx...
Next week I will ask my local Ford dealer about a keypad, but I don´t think that he had
a Keypad or can say me anything about this.
It´s difficult to get informations or parts here in germany. Perhaps you can to term me a dealer
in the US where I can get a keypad for a low price and the dealer will shipping to germany.

The kind of radio waves I meaning ->
a friend have had this at the airport, I have had this twice, once near a police-station and
once near my daughters orthodontist, I don´t now why...
I´am running 15 minutes around the car until the driversdoor will be open.
If I open the car with the key, you know the alarm will start and the immobilizer is at work (if you close the car with the remote control).
But other cars have the same problem, Mercedes, BMW, VW and so on, it´s all the same.
You can close up with the remote control but don´t open with it...

regards
Holger

 

[gijoecam]

The ones available on Ebay are the new keypads, but they can be programmed and retrofitted to the second-generation vehicles the same way you would program a key fob transmitter. The Original keypads from the factory are definately hard-wired in place.

I could be wrong, but I thought that if the truck has the remote entry key-fob, it also came with the keyless entry pad on the door? If it doesn't have both, it could be an aftermarket unit.

Opening the door with the key should not trip the alarm, and at any rate, if it does, placing the key in the ignition and starting it should disable the PATS system and start the car. That's my understanding of the system, and how mine works.

Out of curiosity, it yours a euro-spec Explorer, or a North American Explorer?

-Joe

 

[Holger]

Joe, my Explorer is build 1998 in Louisville/KY, but he was exported 1998 to germany and
the first registration was in august ´98 here in germany.
In my opinion he has another back-lamps, no DRL, the speedometer is in Kilometer and I think that´s all what´s differing from the US Explorer...
And every Explorer in germany have a ride-height control.

regards
Holger

 

[gijoecam]

OK, then yours should be in the same spot as all the rest of them.

Open the jack compartment.

Look towards the front of the opening. On the 2-doors it's right there, but on the 4-doors it's a bit farther up inside the opening.

You can see the label affixed to the front of the module. That's where the mirror comes in handy for locating the code. If you pull the plastic away and use a mirror on a stick, you should be able to see the code on the sticker.

If you need to, you should be able to un-clip the whole unit from the bracket it's attached to in order to rotate it and see the sticker. Releasing it from the brackit is probably more work than it's worth though.

The little green wire you see sticking out there is the antenna wire. It may be twisted up in the bundle, but should be dangling free. You may want to play with some different positioning of this wire using some tape to hold it there until you find a setup that works better.

As for the dealership and parts, I'm not aware of any dealerships the will specifically order and ship internationally. If you speak English well enough (and based on your writing I suspect you do) I think you'll find that if you're willing to give a credit card number over the phone, almost any dealership will be willing to order the part and ship it to you. Not sure how customs works, but I'm sure it's possible.

-Joe

 

[CDW6212R]

To turn off the factory alarm with the key requires turning the key fully to the left, then to the right. If the alarm is set off, the ignition is disabled. The key will not turn the siren off, in ignition or otherwise. I have a 93 which I avoid using the key to unlock the door. The alarm goes off at least a fourth of the time. I use the remote. Good luck,
Don

 

[gijoecam]

That may be the case for your particular vehicle, but it's not the case for my '98 Sport. Inserting the key and turning the ignition on (not even starting the truck) should deactivate the alarm so long as it's a recognized PATS key.

The main point is that using the key to unlock the doors should not set the alarm off in the first place, and the keyless entry should work if you're standing next to the vehicle.

-Joe

 

[pj8847]

I know on my explorer, I can not arm/disarm the factory security system when I have my camaro running within 20 feet of the explorer, even if I'm standing right next to the truck. The Sick ignition system I'm running in the camaro ( MSD based ) interferes with the remotes signal, ( funny thing is, I have NO ignition noise in the Camaro's stereo system at all ) but, I can arm/disarm the Ex's factory system usually with no problem from about 80 yards away from the truck on any given day, as long as the camaro is OFF!

So RF interference is quite possible.

P.S. In my Ex, if the alarm goes off, all I have to do is turn the ignition on and it disarms, allowing the truck to start, and I DON'T have the "PATS" system being it is a '95, go figure, thought the truck isn't suposed to start at all unless alarm is disarmed. A slaphammer and slimjim are all one would need to steal a suposedly "secure" truck, so much for that wonderful "starter interrupt circuit"... Seeing that if the ignition is turned "ON" while the alarm is going off, it DISARMS the system, and a ford ignition can be slapped out in less than 5 seconds if you know what your doing...

What WAS Ford thinking? Installing a starter interrupt that gets disabled when the ignition is turned on...another one of their "better ideas" heh heh

 

[gijoecam]

On a PATS-equipped truck, the ignition won't run if the system is tripped, unless you use a previously-programmed PATS key. If you set it off by smashing the glass and reaching in to open the door, the PATS would disable the ignition and sound the alarm. If you have a pre-programmed key, the tone ring recognizes the key as an authorized key, shuts the alarm off, and allows the ignition to fire up when you turn the ignition switch to the run position.

The pre-PATS systems were simple systems to draw attention to the vehicle in the event of a break-in, just like most alarms were back then. They did nothing to immobilize the vehicle. The PATS will immobilize it unless you're using a pre-programmed key.

In either case, if a thief wants a smash-and-grab without making any noise, they're not going to smash your car, so it's better than no deterrent at all. They'll find a less-noisy target. If they want to drive it off, they know which cars have immobilization systems like PATS and will aim for easier targets or systems that can be easily defeated. If I was a theif, and I seriously wanted your car, I wouldn't break in anyhow.... a flat-bed wrecker is much more effective.

-Joe

 

[fisherg]

Another question about PATS keys and programming them. I bought an 04 F-150 Extended cab from an auction that only came with one key and one remote. So I went on EBAY and bought an OEM Ford PATS key that was uncut. i got the key cut and it opens the door but obviously wont start the vehicle. Is there ANY way i can program this second key myself without spending $100+ at the dealer? Any ideas......
Ford man with a Taurus, 98 Explorer,and the 04 Truck.