Easy Camshaft Synchronizer Replacement

[Explorer Junky]

I had to replace my camshaft syncro yesterday.
1.
After disconnecting the negative battery cable from the battery, I removed the coil pack assembly. Please remember to number the wires with masking tape and a marker.

2.
I then removed the Camshaft Syncro Sensor from the top of shaft. It
has 2 very small screws holding it on. 6 or 7 mm i think.

3. A helper is nice here, I crawled under the truck and turned the crankshaft
with a 1/2" drive ratchet and I think a 15/16 socket, while my beautiful assistant (my wife) watched the "C" shaped thing in the top of the shaft turn.
Having the tool here is imperative. She put the tool on while i turned the crank until it fit in. She told me to stop. Its important to turn the crank slow as to have a perfect alignment. The tool has an arrow on the top. Another important step here,is to mark the intake with paintmarker where the arrow is pointing...BEFORE you pull the old one out! THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT!!!This goes to the front. Now that the Engine is whatever degrees past TDC it needs to be...

4.
Pull out the old Camshaft syncro. Once this is removed, take the tool off the old syncro.Take the sensor off the new syncro, with the new bolts, finger tighten the tool onto the new syncro. This may take a few attempts, but, now you need to drop the new syncro in until the arrow on the tool points to the paint marker on the intake. When you drop it in, it will want to rotate clockwise, so, start with the arrow on the tool at about the 4 or 5 o'clock position. It takes a few attempts, but, you will get it. Because of the slop from the old syncro, it may be a "SMIDGE" off. but you want it almost dead on.


Good luck. I just thought that this is easier than trying to get a certain amount of degrees ATDC. Chilton's says 10 degrees and Haynes says 26. So after taiking to my Ford Nut mechanic, he said this is how he does it. The tool only fits when the Engine is at whatever degrees after TDC!!

 

[waskly]

why not mark where you took it from, position and angle, and reinsert new one same way... ?

 

[Turdle]

why not mark where you took it from, position and angle, and reinsert new one same way... ?

Because there are 3 different things which must line up perfectly. The tool is needed.

 

[waskly]

Because there are 3 different things which must line up perfectly. The tool is needed.

whats the 3rd?

it needs 1 thing, to in the same location as the old one.

i have dropped thousands of these in, and they are pretty simple.

 

[Turdle]

whats the 3rd?

it needs 1 thing, to in the same location as the old one.

i have dropped thousands of these in, and they are pretty simple.

housing--shaft --camshaft. They can be installed " close" and you'll get by, or not. You might not have a burned piston for 30k miles or so--or, you might get it dead on. Kinda like setting ignition timing by ear--

My recommendation-- Use the Tool.

 

[waskly]

housing--shaft --camshaft. They can be installed " close" and you'll get by, or not. You might not have a burned piston for 30k miles or so--or, you might get it dead on. Kinda like setting ignition timing by ear--

My recommendation-- Use the Tool.

the shaft aligs on the cam, the housing to clear the sensor. pretty much it cant be ####ed up, most important is the shaft position, and since the teeth are that far apart, the degree offset is huge.

 

[Explorer Junky]

the shaft aligs on the cam, the housing to clear the sensor. pretty much it cant be ####ed up, most important is the shaft position, and since the teeth are that far apart, the degree offset is huge.

OK man, try it your way and then let us know how it goes!! I know a couple of good engine guys!

 

[snoranger]

whats the 3rd?

it needs 1 thing, to in the same location as the old one.

i have dropped thousands of these in, and they are pretty simple.

You dropped in thousands of these and cant spring for the $25 tool to align it right?!?!?


Are you also the guy that doesnt use a timing light because "You can adjust a distributor just as good by ear"?

 

[waskly]

You dropped in thousands of these and cant spring for the $25 tool to align it right?!?!?


Are you also the guy that doesnt use a timing light because "You can adjust a distributor just as good by ear"?

timing light? i have not used one, in just about a decade. what antiques am i restoring in a dealership..... hell i gave my timing light a friend cause i will never use one again in my life.


i have every cam tool needed, i just rarely need one. most are for squeeking synco's not broken. broken synco. needs a tool, not really but its easier. since when they break most of them you cant tell where the pin was in the synco.

 

[Charlie jenkins]

why not mark where you took it from, position and angle, and reinsert new one same way... ?

I didn't take it out

 

[Charlie jenkins]

I didn't take the old one out some one else did

 

[Charlie jenkins]

Since you've done thousands tell me where at on the firewall does the tool point at

 

[Schuyler]

why not mark where you took it from, position and angle, and reinsert new one same way... ?

Digging your idea... that's how im doing mine

 

[Schuyler]

So what happens if the magnet on the sensor breaks and damages the synchro.. then the syncro gets lose???? And swings around... like was swinging back and fourth....

I ordered a new synchro and sensor... can I just Mark it or should I Do the whole top dead center thing and all????

 

[brihann]

I understand the "Easy R&R" of the Cam Syncronizer but my problem is just getting to it.

I have a 2000 Explorer 4.0L and the CS is in the back of the motor, tight to the firewall and under the AC line and wiring loom and even the intake hinders getting to it.

I just can't see a way to get to it without removing stuff however in all the videos and threads I have read no one talks about this.

So who has done this on a 2000 Exploer 4.0L and how did you get to it?

Thank you very much in advance for any help you can provide.