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Electrical Problems with the SPOUT

Discussion in 'EEC IV' started by Explorin'VA, August 31, 2015.

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    1. Explorin'VA

      Explorin'VA Active Member

      Joined:
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      City, State:
      P-twn
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      '94 xlt
      I was getting a SPOUT circuit open code along with rough idle and hesitation under load. I did some searching and found out that the SPOUT can be disabled by pulling the spout shorting bar, but I found two identical ones. After searching around some more I concluded that the SPOUT bar was behind the passenger headlight, and the other one near the firewall was called the octane bar.

      I tried disconnecting both shorting bars at different times but still had the same hesitation and stalling issues. I was fed and up took it to a shop so they could just fix the problem. They called back and said it would be $1000 dollar job to trace the wires and I said no thanks. To make the truck drivable they claimed to have added a ground to the spout circuit and they removed the spout shorting bar, but when I looked under the hood, it was the octane bar that was removed, not the spout bar, and I didn't see where they grounded anything. By grounding the circuit, did that just mean they simply removed the shorting bar? Why is it that when I removed the shorting bars my problem persisted, but they were able to make it go away? I'm guessing the ground they added had something to do with it, but I can't figure out where that is so I can go over their band air job and fix the real issue. Whatever they did, it fixed the stalling and rough idle.

      I'm just trying to wrap my head around what they did and what should be done to fix the original problem. The truck runs pretty good, but I don't think the PCM is detecting the timing. Is it possible to add a ground to a shorted out spout circuit to make the truck run without hesitating? I also must add that I plugged in the connector that the shop removed and there were no changes in the way my engine ran. The shop was able to make the stalling and hesitation go away, but I still think the truck is down on power based on what the shop did to bypass the short.

      If I sound like I don't know what I'm talking about it's because I don't. I just know my truck isn't performing to its full potential. Any advice is appreciated.
       
      Last edited: August 31, 2015
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