Solved Everything you wanted to know about PATS.

[TestPoint]

Crank/cranking = rotating the engine . . . or not

Start/starting = the engine runs . . . or not

Turn over = either of the above

 

[jluis55555]

i need help

2000 explorer. Truck was working fine but I had to replace the intake manifold gasket so I did it but when I was done with it I went to start it and I noticed the antitheft light rapidly flashing and till this point it won't start.

 

[downix]

2000 explorer. Truck was working fine but I had to replace the intake manifold gasket so I did it but when I was done with it I went to start it and I noticed the antitheft light rapidly flashing and till this point it won't start.

Sounds similar to what just happened with me on my Mountaineer. Had to replace the fuel pump (it would shut-off if the truck went up or down a hill) and drove it away from the garage, where it then would no longer start, giving the theft warning.

 

[downix]

Sounds similar to what just happened with me on my Mountaineer. Had to replace the fuel pump (it would shut-off if the truck went up or down a hill) and drove it away from the garage, where it then would no longer start, giving the theft warning.

Ok, got this sorted out. Turned out that condensation on the front windshield was shorting out the under-dash unit. This morning we had frost, I tried and it started right up.

 

[TheRumpledOne]

Ok, got this sorted out. Turned out that condensation on the front windshield was shorting out the under-dash unit. This morning we had frost, I tried and it started right up.

What under-dash unit?

 

[downix]

What under-dash unit?

The box which the ring antenna around the ignition runs into.

 

[smuckie@fuse.net]

Hi guys, on My wife's 02 Explorer,I think I have an issue with one of my door locks that keeps setting off the alarm at 3 or 4 in the morning, can I just pull the number 14 fuse till I figure out the lock problem, don't really need an anti theft any way

 

[CDW6212R]

That door latch issue is probably fixed by working on the latch. Spray it with a penetrant like PB-Blaster or WD-40, work the mechanism with a screw driver to make it lock without shutting the door. Replace the door striker bushing if that is worn. Put some grease back into the latch, lithium grease works well for those.

 

[smuckie@fuse.net]

Well taking that fuse out did nothing, it went off at midnight last night,I read the "all you wanted to know about PATS" but still don't know how to disable the whole system, I'll check the fuse box chart again

 

[2000StreetRod]

Alarm system vs PATS

PATS allows the PCM to disable the engine from starting when an unrecognized key is used in the ignition. I doubt PATS has anything to do with your alarm system. If you have remote start capability then PATS has to be defeated in some way for the engine to start without a key in the ignition. If your car alarm is going off it probably has something to do with your door closed sensor or kids could be bumping the car at night for "fun" if its not kept in a closed garage. Is the door ajar indicator illuminated after the alarm sounds?

 

[smuckie@fuse.net]

Thanks for the help, I don't have a remote start and it stays in my garage and don't think the door ajar is on but have a door ajar alert flicker while driving but not lately, I've sprayed the tar out of the door latches over the last 2 weeks, it seems strange that it does it after being locked for several hours

 

[CDW6212R]

Thanks for the help, I don't have a remote start and it stays in my garage and don't think the door ajar is on but have a door ajar alert flicker while driving but not lately, I've sprayed the tar out of the door latches over the last 2 weeks, it seems strange that it does it after being locked for several hours

That's what I thought, which will trigger the alarm, which is why I posted about the latches.

Either clean/lube/exercise them, or replace them. I had that happen to one of my doors, and later a striker bushing(too large(from Late Model Restoration*)) caused my right front door to constantly be "open."

*I suggest not buying their bushings, they were too large for my 98, and they were not helpful to replace them(at their shipping costs). They only made one diameter then(2010), which they claimed fit all Fords of similar strikers.

 

[delexploder]

Dorman is the same way with the striker bushings, also look hard at the rear hatch and glass, I've had this issue with my 97 sport and my 98 xlt, pull your door panels and take a hard look at the wires and connectors, also had that happen,

 

[smuckie@fuse.net]

I'm thinking the wiring might be suspect, the rear driver side door doesn't lock sometimes without manually doing it, it unlocks every time though, if you lock and unlock bunch of times it stops locking until it sets about 10 minutes, weird right?

 

[CDW6212R]

I'm thinking the wiring might be suspect, the rear driver side door doesn't lock sometimes without manually doing it, it unlocks every time though, if you lock and unlock bunch of times it stops locking until it sets about 10 minutes, weird right?

That could be part of it also, if one door doesn't get locked then its very easy to make the alarm go off. I have my LF door locking button not working, and it's the wiring. I swapped the switch ages ago, twice, so one day I'll dig into the door to check that wiring.

 

[MrQ]

There is also something about PATS you should be aware of. If you have several no-start battery related key turns (4-5 if memory serves) you will hear a steady beeping from the vehicle. It is quiet but audible and is NOT the chime. You MUST remove your key from the ignition immediately or the key codes will be wiped from PATS and you will be stuck. I have had this happen a couple of times. I have no idea why this is but be aware.

 

[gpbarth]

Came in really late in this thread (just joined the group), but I just purchased a '98 Explorer, and have both original keys. I'd like to get at least 2 more, per the "2 keys to program a 3rd" rule. Is e-Bay the only source for these keys?

And other than the transponder, it it a standard key cut? IOW, can I get the key cut at the Lowe's where I work? Or is it some special cut that a locksmith has to do?

TIA,

Addendum: Lowe's says they won't touch these blanks, says even the machine can sense them and will not work. Locksmith?

 

[CDW6212R]

Came in really late in this thread (just joined the group), but I just purchased a '98 Explorer, and have both original keys. I'd like to get at least 2 more, per the "2 keys to program a 3rd" rule. Is e-Bay the only source for these keys?

And other than the transponder, it it a standard key cut? IOW, can I get the key cut at the Lowe's where I work? Or is it some special cut that a locksmith has to do?

TIA,

Addendum: Lowe's says they won't touch these blanks, says even the machine can sense them and will not work. Locksmith?

eBay just seems to be the easiest place to find keys that you will like, and for a good price. Most places can cut them, I happen to get mine done at my dealer always(I don't know if they use anything special to cut them). I got mine programmed much later(year) when I finished the truck.

 

[gpbarth]

Thanks, Don. I don't mind going to a dealer, but I would expect to pay an exorbitant fee for the cutting, as opposed to, say, my Lowe's store (who says they won't touch them anyway). I may end up at the dealer anyway.

 

[CDW6212R]

My regular parts guy has done my cars since high school, from free to a couple of dollars. Call around and see where you can find a place that can do the keys, they shouldn't be a big deal. They should know that the key will not work unless it gets programmed, so they are only doing the simple first step.

eBay was great to find varying colors etc. Unless there aren't two programmed keys, the dealer shouldn't be needed.