Solved Everything you wanted to know about PATS.

[Turdle]

For using a fixed transponder key, I wonder if hidden generic switch could be used as the disabler?

 

[Number Twelve]

Thank you CDW6212R.
Disabling the system is exactly what I want to do.
Can I just leave the original key in the ignition switch? It seems like the car will be constantly dinging to notify passers-by that the key is in the ignition.
If I can't just leave a key in it all the time, how close does it have to be?
Do I have to tape it to the steering column, right next to the key hole?
Will it work 6 inches away?
Will it work a foot away?
I guess I can go make some door keys and find out.

This might seem strange, but I don't believe in a car telling me when it feels like I am the right person to drive it. I don't want to be at the Mercy of a Dealership to get a car to allow its owner to drive it. That's assuming they won't say, "This model year is no longer supported. You should have told the tow driver to take it to the junk yard."

I don't know why everything has to have a dozen microprocessors (captive parts) inside. I had a 1948 Ford pickup truck that contained everything I need today, except an air conditioner. If that sucker refused to respond to the ignition key, I could start it two other ways, and neither of them required a cash ransom.

 

[Turdle]

The orange plastic ring around the ignition lock cylinder is the "chime" switch. The key closes the switch, so, removing the plastic collar will disable the "key in ignition" chime.

The ignition lock cyclinder is pretty simple to remove.

from my thread here

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=379194&highlight=ignition+lock


Most cars since the late 90's have some sort of passive anti theft device, due to pressure from insurance pricing without one.

 

[Number Twelve]

removing the plastic collar will disable the "key in ignition" chime.

Most cars since the late 90's have some sort of passive anti theft device, due to pressure from insurance pricing without one.

and yet, late model cars are still stolen every day.

Thank you for the information about killing the "chime"!

I always thought the ignition key WAS an anti-theft device. Is the problem that it is an ACTIVE anti-theft device...or that the manufacturers couldn't figure out how to make stealing a car too inconvenient without making all vehicles hostages to a Dealership?

Oh wait. I know. The Manufacturers couldn't make cars more difficult to steal without installing a long term profit maker in both the Service Department AND the New Car Sales Department.

I guess the only way to really be rid of this self-destruct capability is the software approach, which is apparently more expensive than two new keys (but more permanent).

 

[308ruger]

auto lock portion of pats

Does the auto lock part referenced in the first page of the sticky reference to the car will automatically lock itself after a set time with key OUT?

I understand there is an auto lock setup in the console so that it auto locks when you hit i think like five miles an hour, which my wife likes so i leave that alone.

However just recently my kids have started driving and it seems my 05 explorer wants to lock itself pretty quickly after you turn it of. maybe they accidently turned this auto lock on??

 

[CDW6212R]

Thank you CDW6212R.
Disabling the system is exactly what I want to do.
Can I just leave the original key in the ignition switch? It seems like the car will be constantly dinging to notify passers-by that the key is in the ignition.
If I can't just leave a key in it all the time, how close does it have to be?
Do I have to tape it to the steering column, right next to the key hole?
Will it work 6 inches away?
Will it work a foot away?
I guess I can go make some door keys and find out.

This might seem strange, but I don't believe in a car telling me when it feels like I am the right person to drive it. I don't want to be at the Mercy of a Dealership to get a car to allow its owner to drive it. That's assuming they won't say, "This model year is no longer supported. You should have told the tow driver to take it to the junk yard."

I don't know why everything has to have a dozen microprocessors (captive parts) inside. I had a 1948 Ford pickup truck that contained everything I need today, except an air conditioner. If that sucker refused to respond to the ignition key, I could start it two other ways, and neither of them required a cash ransom.

The key code reading device is there with the cylinder, so the proper coded key has to be very close to it. I've read of people taping such a key in that area under the trim cover, but I don't know how close it was(there were no details or pictures mentioned).

It's easy to have a new key cut to fit, whether it's a coded key or a plain older version. I'm not sure if a coded key with a non programmed code will work in that way(but you could gut such a key if the goal was to have it look proper still). I think you can get that all done for under $15 or so depending on the key blanks you buy.

 

[Number Twelve]

Oh yeah. I'm just trying to eliminate the engine self-defeat mechanism (for less than several hundred dollars) and act like it's a normal car. I ALWAYS have all my doors locked, even when parked in my back yard. I have never had a car stolen, and I bought this one at 10 years old, like all the other cars I have worn out. I have had tools stolen, twice, and a self-defeating ignition key would not have stopped either of those events because it doesn't prevent breaking a window to steal the tools.

The next thing I will study is how to stop the car from unlocking all the doors under any sort of automatic function. Hmm...no key holes in the rear hatch or the second row of doors. It's going to take some ingenuity to get this to lock and unlock without using the electric lock buttons. Where to drill to install lock cylinders...

Edit: It seems pretty obvious. Get 3 more drivers door handles, get the lock cylinders synchronized, and worry about the rear hatch second.

 

[Tankentaisha]

Get 3 more drivers door handles, get the lock cylinders synchronized, and worry about the rear hatch second.

I've been planning on getting another handle for the front passenger door at least for the same reasons. Funny (or not) that I can unlock the drivers door in person with either a key or the keypad, but nothing on any of the other doors, as if we never go to them when getting something from the car.

 

[Number Twelve]

I can unlock the drivers door in person with either a key or the keypad, but nothing on any of the other doors, as if we never go to them when getting something from the car.

Yep. Anyone that wants to get the groceries out of the second row or the hatch must want to go through the drivers door to get there.

I wonder if there are any Explorer versions from which I can get the rear hatch, in order to have one with a key hole in it.

PS, I'm forming a Computerized Car Blasphemy Group. Glad to see you're aboard.

PPS, Just found the drivers door switch module inside the center console. All the switches ohm out, so I guess it has a bad window motor and that's why somebody pried the switch pod out. If I can get the wiring diagram for the car, I can probably eliminate the high frequency crystal oscillator and microprocessor circuit board, and use some simple, momentary toggle switches to operate the window motors.

 

[Tankentaisha]

Yep. Anyone that wants to get the groceries out of the second row or the hatch must want to go through the drivers door to get there.

I wonder if there are any Explorer versions from which I can get the rear hatch, in order to have one with a key hole in it.

I do have ability to open all the doors now that I got a remote start installed and they ran a wire to the rear hatch so that I can click it open using the auxiliary button.

Still planning on doing the passenger door and will be looking at options for putting a keyhole in the rear hatch. I wonder what year they discontinued key access for the other doors on these.

 

[Number Twelve]

Reminder: While at the Automotive Dismantling and Recycling Emporium getting door handles with key holes, get the rods and buttons you push down when exiting the vehicle.

The inside door handles already unlock the side doors, but there is no interior handle on the hatch. I guess when that electric lock solenoid fails, you just permanently abandon using the hatch...or electrically unlock all the doors today and leave the car unlocked for the rest of its life.

I can do that. Just remove all the "lock" buttons until I get an interior door handle and a key hole installed in the hatch.

We should probably be in a different Thread or Forum to inquire about defeating the Electric Only door locks.

 

[rksnow1]

Hey guys, Im new to this forum and just read through all 13 pages and some links about the PATS system. Best info on PATS that I found on the web.. Hoping you can help...

Im transplanting a complete 4.6 v8 w/ auto tranny from my 2000 mustang GT into a project truck I am building (I know its a mustang and not an explorer engine does have some explorer parts and... you guys really seem to have the best knowledge of PATS I could find. I have the engine and transmission installed and am working on getting the wiring straight to fire it up. right now I have all the wiring plugged together and laying next to the truck and I have a few questions or problems

1. I want to use an old non ford column, and steering wheel for the retro look. Can I just remove the ignition module, Key Transponder, lock cylinder and discard the tilt column or do I need something (clock spring or something from the inside that I cant see. My lock cylinder seems to be stuck anyway so may need to replace that.

2. If I leave the key in the ignition (Transponder should work without turning key from what I gather), try to use the ignition switch directly to start the truck I don't get anything.. the ford gauges power up but I have a rapidly flashing THEFT light but no cranking or sound from fuel pump?

3. I want to pare down and clean up the wiring harness for my application to the bare essentials, engine, PATS, fuel, transmission. I don't need all the power options, radio, lighting etc that is here. Anyone have a basic diagram of what I need to keep for the pats system and engine to run or can I buy a cheap PCM/ECU that will disable the PATS permanently

Thanks again

 

[CDW6212R]

Hey guys, Im new to this forum and just read through all 13 pages and some links about the PATS system. Best info on PATS that I found on the web.. Hoping you can help...

Im transplanting a complete 4.6 v8 w/ auto tranny from my 2000 mustang GT into a project truck I am building (I know its a mustang and not an explorer engine does have some explorer parts and... you guys really seem to have the best knowledge of PATS I could find. I have the engine and transmission installed and am working on getting the wiring straight to fire it up. right now I have all the wiring plugged together and laying next to the truck and I have a few questions or problems

1. I want to use an old non ford column, and steering wheel for the retro look. Can I just remove the ignition module, Key Transponder, lock cylinder and discard the tilt column or do I need something (clock spring or something from the inside that I cant see. My lock cylinder seems to be stuck anyway so may need to replace that.

2. If I leave the key in the ignition (Transponder should work without turning key from what I gather), try to use the ignition switch directly to start the truck I don't get anything.. the ford gauges power up but I have a rapidly flashing THEFT light but no cranking or sound from fuel pump?

3. I want to pare down and clean up the wiring harness for my application to the bare essentials, engine, PATS, fuel, transmission. I don't need all the power options, radio, lighting etc that is here. Anyone have a basic diagram of what I need to keep for the pats system and engine to run or can I buy a cheap PCM/ECU that will disable the PATS permanently

Thanks again

Welcome, and I think you might be better off with the PCM and wiring you have. You could use other 4.6 computers, but any others would take more wiring changes than the one you have. You have a COP ignition, so the 99+ PCM is needed unless you wanted to go backwards to an older PCM and the matching wiring harnesses etc. That could get you out of the PATS, but is that easier than programming out the PATS from your PCM.


I'm looking for a 99-04 auto GT wiring harness, so if you have that one intact and to sell, I'd love to hear about it. But that's for my 91 Lincoln project, to gain OBDII for a SBF and the newer wiring.

The flashing THEFT light is telling you that the PATS system has detected a failed key code "event", so at that point the computer has disabled the fuel pump, and maybe the starter too(some versions).

You can use an older steering column, but the PATS system still has to be accounted for. Either you have to "trick" the system into always thinking it's all intact and working, or else with a PCM flasher you can have the PATS programmed out of it.

I have a 72 Ranchero that I plan an OBDII conversion, a 97 PCM, and a 93/94 Explorer steering column. That steering column will work with cruise control, has no air bag, and it's kind of still available. Regards,

 

[rksnow1]

Thanks Don. Being I have the complete harness etc from the mustang. (It was my DD until the frame cracked but ran fine so I should be able to plug everything together and go I would think. I only ever had one key for the car so it should be right . Will the PCM time out and reset the key? I removed the engine and everything a few months back.

Am I correct that I read the thread right that the PATS still transmits as long as the key is in the ignition key barrel regardless of position or very close to it. My steering lock is stuck and cant turn the key on, but thinking if I pull the ignition switch from the column and toggle it manually I should be able to start the motor because the key should still be transmitting to the PCM?


Also just in case Im an idiot, can you tell me where the PCM is located or roughly the size shape. I think I have the PCM hooked up maybe I don't... Was just thinking and I did leave what I thought was the radio amplifier in the dash, maybe it was the PCM I left.. hoping its that simple..

Ray

 

[TestPoint]

By far the simplest but most expensive is to have PATS disabled in your PCM software. That eliminates all steering column and other PATS issues entirely. Not at all difficult but custom tuners expect to be paid handsomely for their knowledge and equipment. Actually, PATS disable consist of only one parameter turned off in software . . . on to off. Personally, I think about $100 is a fair price while the tuners think more in terms of $400 . . . or more.

Beyond that you get into swapping harness, injectors, fuel pressure regulators, etc., ect. to create a matching system. While I am not familiar with the '00 4.6L Mustang configuration you are dead center of lots of evolution of the Ford electrical/fuel/PATS development and will have to educate yourself on all the specifics.

For example, a '97, Explorer did not have PATS but did have a 45psi fuel system with a fuel rail mounted pressure regulator. The '99 Ex had PATS and a 65psi injection system with a tank mounted pressure regulator. Certainly, you could avoid PATS mechanically but you had to make the entire PCM/harness/injectors/FPR system look like the earlier configuration.

Oh . . . and at the same time, '98, Ford changed the transmission controls so you you had to make that match also.

Your situation may be less complicated . . . or more.

Since you obviously like to read about all our problems and solutions, no matter how convoluted try this for some late night reading.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=364540&highlight=testpoint

 

[CDW6212R]

Ray, there are different versions of the PATS, and this thread is basically about the Explorer version, which was the first.

Most likely the Mustang PATS takes the key code like the Explorer, the key code is pulled by the small device mounted on the side of the key cylinder. So most likely to attempt to "trick" the PCM into accepting a code not related to the key used, a known good coded key just has to be very close to that code device. That part you can do easily, keep the wiring for that thing, and mount it and the good key buried in the dash. Others have mentioned doing that to bypass the PATS, but nobody has come back and mentioned if they had any issues with it.

The Mustang PCM is inside behind the right kick panel, in the Explorer it's in the firewall on the outside.

Also Ray, before you get deep into that wiring, plan out what needs to be kept and what can go. I don't know what older truck you are working on, but you may only need the PCM harness, engine/trans harness, and some of the dash wiring. The engine bay harness I think is not connected by a ton of wires to those engine/PCM items, but I don't know how many it does need. If you could make those main PCM/engine harnesses work to keep down the number of wires left unused in the truck, maybe the engine bay harness or car body harness could be left intact.

I am trying to help, I'm not sure which wires you must have from each harness. But the Mustang harnesses should be a good fit to my Fox chassis Lincoln, and even the engine bay and body harness would be useful to me. All I've learned so far about the Mustang wiring is that they changed every two years from 1999 to 2004. I'd have to have all 1999/2000 wiring, or all 01/02, or all 03/04 wiring. I recently found a manual GT harness set from 2000, but I passed on it at the time because I didn't know if I could make the manual wiring work for my car(347 and 4R70W). I've been hunting for a Mustang auto GT with ABS from 99 to 04.

 

[TestPoint]

And there is a PATS module mounted behind the glove box on the Explorer. You are going to have to get specific in fine detail about your situation to avoid the software solution.

 

[rksnow1]

Thanks for the info and responses everyone. looks like I missed a few posts since my last post tonight. to try and answer the few questions that came up.

My build is a 66 Jeep Gladiator rat rod truck. I was running ford axles, wheels, and explorer seats for my interior. When my mustang was no longer road worthy I decided to part it and swap the 4.6 and auto tranny into my gladiator and bring the truck into modern times... added another 175HP, power brakes, steering, hydroboost, and automatic transmission. got all the stuff mounted and ready to go, just need the wiring to run it now. The truck has no AC, heater, power anything. I will make a lighting circuit later. I really am just looking for the bare essentials in the harness to start and keep her running with the stock EFI and automatic transmission.

I wanted to use the stock Jeep mechanical gauges and column and ok with "hiding" the PATS for the retro look if possible but I just got a post on another forum saying I need to keep the ford gauges for PATS too .. hmmm.. maybe Ill keep the gauges. I knew I may have an issue with integrating them, the fuel cut off switch, and ignition without the column but I didn't know the engine used PATS til I started the wiring. .. so here I am...

Don, If I can find a stripped down harness cheap or if you have one that would work for me I would be willing to trade for mine being I only need a 1/8 of it, it seems.

From what I read in the beginning of this post and a few other trouble shooting guides the mustang until 01 and explorer through 00 had the same PATS system. Most forums I found only had a blurb or two about PATS, you guys really seemed to understand it.

I have a mustang manual here somewhere. (Just moved and still looking for it) Im still new at reading wiring and really don't grasp it 100% honestly. I don't recall seeing a PATS section in the wiring diagrams. I think If I could find the schematic separating PATS and the engine/trans essentials I could get this solved.

 

[TestPoint]

I think If I could find the schematic separating PATS and the engine/trans essentials I could get this solved.

You will not not find that in the schematics anywhere. PATS is truly internal software to the PCM. Even the PATS Module which processes the key code to PCM does not affect the PCM's software unless it provides an internal unlock code to the PCM.

Ford's objective was to create a Passive Anti Theft System that is damn near impossible to bypass . . . or to do an engine swap on.

Strange thing is that they did not provide any information and capability to the Ford dealers to address anything associated with PATS. Turning it off is a simple task that is not available to dealer equipment.

 

[rksnow1]

Thanks Testpoint, I meant to say that if I knew what wires were needed between the PCM and Key transponder then I could remove the rest of the unneeded wires keeping the PATS intact and simplifying my harness. Same with the engine/fuel harness wiring

Thanks again