Solved Everything you wanted to know about PATS.

[delexploder]

Ok I just checked the vin off the mounty it came out of. I forgot I took a pic of it, and its a 99 so i guess im sol on that. All the parts say 98 but I know that's just build dates. I guess that puts me back to adding pats to my 97?

 

[Turdle]

Ok I just checked the vin off the mounty it came out of. I forgot I took a pic of it, and its a 99 so i guess im sol on that. All the parts say 98 but I know that's just build dates. I guess that puts me back to adding pats to my 97?

well,
I also have a set of 98 fuel rails and orange injectors if this will help. The tub idea is sounding better and better.

 

[CDW6212R]

well,
I also have a set of 98 fuel rails and orange injectors if this will help. The tub idea is sounding better and better.

Ditto, just swap the fuel rails and injectors, plus wiring harness, from any 96-98 302. Return the tank assembly to the way it was also, if you changed it.

 

[CDW6212R]

Please excuse me if I'm way out in left field here, this thought just came to me.
I have a 1999 Explorer 5.0 with a 2000 4RW70. I have the PCM that came with the trans donor (with harness) 2000 all this going in a 1980 Volvo.
I also have a 97 PCM that I have heard conflicting reports on if it will work or not.
I have to wonder if the 97 PCM can be modded to work with the 99 engine.
That would leave PATS out of the question.

You can use the 97 PCM and wiring harness to avoid the PATS(or not program it to be off). The trans wiring change was 98 to 99, the wiring harness inside the trans changed and the wires at the connector moved around. You can fix that just by finding the diagram showing which wires are where for each version. The trans connector changed from white to black then, that's an easy way to tell if you have a later model trans.

 

[TestPoint]

OK . . .

Lets summarize . . .

You have a truck with a fuel return line.

You have an engine with a non-return, computer managed fuel pressure fuel rail

You want to avoid PATS by using a '96-'97 PCM

The '96-'97 PCM did not have fuel pressure management but both pre '99 and '99 up used the same fuel injectors

Fuel pressure was managed by a rail mounted mechanical regulator in '96-'98.

Holler back if that is incorrect.

Except that my vehicle was a Volvo for everything else I had the same problem. My solution was to add a inner fender mounted adjustable fuel pressure regulator with a return line to the tank.

With the regulator adjusted to the 45 psi that the O2 sensors, the injectors and the PCM expected, management of the fuel trim should be within the capability of the system.

That does not solve any wiring harness issues but I think it does the fuel issue.

 

[Turdle]

OK . . .



The '96-'97 PCM did not have fuel pressure management but both pre '99 and '99 up used the same fuel injectors

Injectors are not the same, nor will the harness be. Several sensors changed 99-up. 99 injectors will not connect to 98 harness.

Maybe we should start another thread as a spinoff to this one, as we are kinda getting off topic.

I suggest a "Everything you need to do to get along with PATS" thread?

 

[delexploder]

Yea looks like I need to just pull every thing back out and start over cause im screwed either way

 

[delexploder]

Ok here we go hows this combo sound? I have a complete 97 intake 97 pcm a 98 motor harness from turdle leave out the pats go back to return system?

 

[Turdle]

I think that will work. There may be tiny differences between the 98 harness and 97 PCM, --and or engine sensors.

 

[Turdle]

Or,
You can disable PATS thru a handheld tuner--scanner. It might be the way to go if the 98 wiring was easier.

 

[CDW6212R]

Ok here we go hows this combo sound? I have a complete 97 intake 97 pcm a 98 motor harness from turdle leave out the pats go back to return system?

The 98 wiring will work, your 99 engine has the same EGR set up.

Be sure to get the 96-98 distributor(cam synchronizer) because 99-01 is a different two wire sensor.

 

[CDW6212R]

All of these Explorers use mechanical fuel pressure regulators. The 99-01 is simply in the gas tank instead of on the rail.

With the proper sized fuel lines(both), you can use the stock 96-98 FPR in the Volvo to work with any pre-99 computer(35-42psi).

1999+ fuel systems have an extra sensor/input required for the PCM, not ideal for swaps into other makes.

 

[MDB74]

So I have been reading through this thread from the beginning but still am confused about a few things. Here is a little background on my situation. Money has been real tight for us due to me being laid off and last Monday my girlfriends car was repossessed. We had enough money to get it back, but then I came across a 02 mountaineer with the typical timing chain issue. The truck was in great condition otherwise (other than not being cleaned in years and half the motor torn apart from a novice repair attempt) I was able to buy the truck for 700.00 and get a junkyard motor for 400.00 and figured we are best off to get this drop that motor in and ill rebuild the one i pulled over time. The only other issue that the truck had was a lock cylinder that the prior owner replaced before i got it from him having to repo it from someone he had sold it to before me. Anyway, yesterday I finished up the motor change and went to start it and noticed the theft light flashing, i knew nothing about the PATS system until today. After some googling of the theft light flashing I learned of PATS. So I had a locksmith out here today who tried a few times to program the keys and he had no luck. He noticed that the antenna around the lock cylinder was broken, but the circuit board inside was ok. he said to buy an new one and he will come back out and try again. you guys think that could be the issue? or is there something else i should look at. Im hoping i can buy that from the dealer and return it if it dosnt fix it. Sorry for the long story, lol but wanted to try to explain it all.

 

[CDW6212R]

So I have been reading through this thread from the beginning but still am confused about a few things. Here is a little background on my situation. Money has been real tight for us due to me being laid off and last Monday my girlfriends car was repossessed. We had enough money to get it back, but then I came across a 02 mountaineer with the typical timing chain issue. The truck was in great condition otherwise (other than not being cleaned in years and half the motor torn apart from a novice repair attempt) I was able to buy the truck for 700.00 and get a junkyard motor for 400.00 and figured we are best off to get this drop that motor in and ill rebuild the one i pulled over time. The only other issue that the truck had was a lock cylinder that the prior owner replaced before i got it from him having to repo it from someone he had sold it to before me. Anyway, yesterday I finished up the motor change and went to start it and noticed the theft light flashing, i knew nothing about the PATS system until today. After some googling of the theft light flashing I learned of PATS. So I had a locksmith out here today who tried a few times to program the keys and he had no luck. He noticed that the antenna around the lock cylinder was broken, but the circuit board inside was ok. he said to buy an new one and he will come back out and try again. you guys think that could be the issue? or is there something else i should look at. Im hoping i can buy that from the dealer and return it if it dosnt fix it. Sorry for the long story, lol but wanted to try to explain it all.

Welcome, and your best answer would be to ask an expert of the 2002+ models, if you know of one.

Since you just bought the truck, it's hard for you to say what things related to the PATS has been changed or worked on.

The first PATS of the 98-01 Explorer isn't identical to later versions. But it would be a guess to say that something in your truck's key code parts is not right, or the PATS/PCM modules are not matched. At some point those are all in the PCM as a single unit, I'm not sure if that began in 2002.

If someone here doesn't chime in who knows the 2002 system, you might have to go to Ford service to ask for help.

 

[rlb81]

I recently got a 2002 Explorer and it only came with one key. I went to Home Depot and bought a replacement key for $69. The replacement key was programmed right in the store (no one did a thing to the car itself). I'm guessing the new key is programmed to mirror the RFID of my old key. I don't see how else it would work without programming anything on the vehicle.

I'd like to get a Fusion key (remote/key in one piece). I realize I need 2 existing keys in order to manually program a new key, however I effectively have 2 of the exact same key, so I'm doubtful this will work.

Any insight?

 

[TestPoint]

Wow! The fact that HomeDepot can program a key is news to me!

I assume the new key works (?).

If it does it should qualify as part of the two key pair required to add an third.

There are compatibility issues with the various models and their keys. The real question would appear to be is a Fusion key usable with an Explorer.

 

[2000StreetRod]

duplicate key?

If the second key is an exact duplicate of the first key then I doubt the PCM will allow it to qualify as a second key to enable programming a third key. Otherwise, it would be possible to just remove and then reinsert the first key a second time.

 

[rlb81]

Wow! The fact that HomeDepot can program a key is news to me!

I assume the new key works (?).

If it does it should qualify as part of the two key pair required to add an third.

There are compatibility issues with the various models and their keys. The real question would appear to be is a Fusion key usable with an Explorer.

Yup Home Depot can, but only certain ones. They call it a "Jingles" key center. The new key does work.

Also the Fusion key is compatible, there are more than a few threads here that document it.

If the second key is an exact duplicate of the first key then I doubt the PCM will allow it to qualify as a second key to enable programming a third key. Otherwise, it would be possible to just remove and then reinsert the first key a second time.

That's my line of thinking also but I'd still like to try it out. I'm not 100% sure it's an exact duplicate but I can't think of any other possible way it would work otherwise. Is there a way I can FUBAR my existing programming if it doesn't work (ie somehow delete my one existing key and lock myself out of the PATS system)?


The worst part is that I know the second factory key exists somewhere. I've held it in my hands in the past (got the truck from inlaws) but the spare key hasn't been used or seen in 2 years.

 

[slide112]

ECM and PATS problems

Hey Guys, and gals, I need a little help. I went through this with my 2000 ford explorer sport about 8 months ago. But the project got put on hold and I can not locate the directions I used then. The battery has been disconnected for 8 month or longer. When I reconnect the battery the antitheft system starts blowing the horn and flashing the lights. If I try to start the car it will not start or stop the noise and lights. Last time I thought the directions were something like turn the key in all the exterior locks and that would reset the system so it would work again. I know what ever the sequence was it worked last time. Alas the problem was a blown engine not just a timing chain. Can anyone direct me to the instructions or share them?

 

[cbranning2012]

You said,

"The engine does not start and LED remains off.
1. Check PATS system fuses
2. If alarm is fitted check if LED functions for alarm: if not check cigar lighter fuse (also used for LED)
3. If not go to main dealer"

I don't get number "2" what does "check if LED functions for alarm" mean