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Ex won't start, code 542, is it fuel pump?

Discussion in 'Stock 1995 - 2001 Explorers' started by IronCurtain, December 4, 2017.

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    1. IronCurtain

      IronCurtain New Member

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      1995 Eddie Bauer
      Hello, so I bought my 1995 ford explorer eddie bauer edition about 3 months ago. It has 210k, but runs (well ran) really strong and interior and exterior are in rather great shape....

      About a month ago the CEL came on and I got code 327 "egr valve pressure transducer /position sensor circuit below minimum voltage." Could be coincidental but around same time the explorer started intermittently stalling at stop lights, coming off highway exits, during cornering, but generally when coming to a stop. Always started right up tho first try.

      I did explorer forum search and saw that it could be caused by the ignition, which actually is a bit loose anyway. The key has a bit of wiggle room when it's in and turned on, and when the key is out I can wiggle the ignition socket around a bit, but can't start it without the key.

      So I started holding the key in when I would take corners and come to a stop, and only once did it ever shut off on me again. Oh yeah, and it would give me a hard time starting it, if it had been run for a while, say over 20 or 30 mins... When I came back to start it after it had been shut off for at least 5 or 10 mins, It would take a couple tries and even stall out right away, but after a couple tries and if I just put it in drive right away and pulled off, it would stay running.

      Anyway

      Last night I drove it 40 miles on highway, wasn't having any problems at all until I took the exit, which at that point it just died. No warning or sputtering or anything just cut out. I put it in neutral and tried to start it back up like I had done countless times before, but this time it would not start at all.

      I coasted into a gas station parking lot, where it still sits. I now get code 542...."fuel pump circuit open; battery to pcm."

      It cranks over fine, and at first it actually tried to start back up but just died and then after a bunch of tries, it didn't even come close to starting.

      I turned the key to on position, but don't hear the fuel pump turn on. I checked all fuses, they're fine, and I replaced the relay, nothing helped. I removed the relay and used a test light, and do get constant power out of one, and when I turn the key on I get constant power out of 2 little connection thingys that the relay fits into.

      I also checked the inertia switch, pushed it up and down, nothing helped, and I also checked for power there, but nothing. (I disconnected the 3 wires from the switch and put key to on position, tested the wires with test light.... Nothing)

      I really don't want to drop gas tank unless I have to. In fact if I have to, I might just do what I saw in a different thread and take my back seat out and cut an access hole through the floor, to get to the pump.

      Should I cut the access hole and check for power going to the pump? Also, where are all the grounds for that particular circuit (from fuse to pump) I feel like maybe a ground was shorting out when I took corners or something and then when I took the exit it just disconnected.

      It's hard for me to get under and look, I can't get it up on jackstands or anything.

      Thanks in advance for any help I love this forum :)
       
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    3. J8McMahon

      J8McMahon New Member

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      The code is for a secondary pump circuit failure. Either the pump, or the pump relay is faulty. Unfortunately you've already tried the relay so that means it is the pump that is broken. Problem with that is, as you already know, pump is embedded in tank. You stated you could probably try to access only the pump, but it would be better off IMO to just go ahead and replace the whole tank. Best of luck.
       
    4. IronCurtain

      IronCurtain New Member

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      Thanks for your response! But why no voltage at the inertia switch?
       
    5. 96eb96

      96eb96 Well-Known Member

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      If the relay is working you should have power at the inertia switch. I don't have the 95 wiring diagram but 96 should be similar. Maybe a bad wire?
      From what I see on the diagram, the computer gets voltage directly from the relay(and that is how the code is set, I believe). If you are getting that code, the relay could be bad OR you have an intermittent problem that happens at random times, over bumps, etc.

      You can jumper 12V to the PK/BK wire at the inertia switch, that goes to the pump.
       
    6. daisyrocky

      daisyrocky Active Member

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      You can cut out a door under the rear seat while the tank is removed for fuel pump replacement. That way in the future you can replace the pump without removing tank or get under the truck.
       
    7. IronCurtain

      IronCurtain New Member

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      I'm going to do it while the tank is there. I'm going to do it in about an hour. If I never post again u know what happened.
       
    8. IronCurtain

      IronCurtain New Member

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      Well what a day. So I cut the bitch ass access hole after removing the back seats, neither of which was easy, but cutting the hole was the worst part. Then 5 of the 6 bolts to remove pump were rusted as hell and I couldn't get them out with socket or wrench so I drilled them out. What a bitch.

      I take the pump unit out and finally figure out how to take it apart to actually get to the pump (it's 8 pm by now), and remove the pump.

      I got a cheap pump from O'Reilly parts and the 2 wires coming out were gray and black instead of red and black so I wasn't sure which was which. So I hooked up a live 12v wire and ground and figured out the gray is power. I had the old pump out, so for shits and giggles I hooked it to live 12v wire and ground, and the ****ing thing started whirring!

      What a trip. So I figured it must be ok so I get it all back together (9:30 pm by now), start the ex and it fired right up.

      I do a victory dance in my parking lot and leave it running while I clean everything up. After 5 minutes it shuts off and won't start again.

      Well **** me.

      So tomorrow morning I'm going to take it all apart again and put the new pos pump in and see if it'll stay working. Fingers crossed.

      I'm curious if anyone knows what the grey wire is, going to pump? I think it has red stripe... The yellow wire is for the float, the black is ground, and the pink is power coming from inertia switch. Ain't got a clue what the grey wire is for.
       
    9. 96eb96

      96eb96 Well-Known Member

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      I don't see anything about a filter? Maybe change that too? It is original, there is your problem!

      I don't let mine go under 1/2 because I fear this job! I also change the filter every 15K. The way my fuel tank looks I would probably just order one, it is quite rusty. Don't have the balls to drill around a tank, especially at the top with all the vapors.

      The grey wire may be the pressure sensor for emissions, to see if the gas cap is on.
       
    10. IronCurtain

      IronCurtain New Member

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      Ok more trouble. I got new pump installed truck starts and runs (well ran) fine. I drove with no issues 2 miles to store, start it back up and it gives me trouble. Starts running very rough, I get halfway home and it dies.

      Fuel pump is still working, and I changed fuel filter.

      Now I'm getting all kinds of codes.

      171
      172
      175
      176
      181
      189

      327

      542
      556

      Niw 8 know 327 is egr related. Could it have finally capped out on me? Engine seems to want to start, but won't.

      Most of these codes are indicating heated oxygen sensor indicates lean condition on both sides. Idk what to do next.
       
    11. IronCurtain

      IronCurtain New Member

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      Now after I got it towed to my house I'm seeing what I think is power steering fluid leaking, because I'm pretty sure the tow truck guy wrapped the chain around the front axle and accidentally also wrapped it around a power steering hose. Going to wait til morning to see if I can hopefully just tighten up the hose assuming the chain pulled it out of whack.
       
    12. IronCurtain

      IronCurtain New Member

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      I'm thinking fuel pressure regulator now. Also dpfe sensor.
       
    13. IronCurtain

      IronCurtain New Member

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      So today I replaced the fuel pressure regulator, and egr relay. Waiting to get the battery charged up so I can try to start it. Fingers crossed.

      So far, brand new:

      Fuel pump
      Fuel filter
      Fuel pressure regulator
      Egr sensor.

      I guess if it doesn't start, idk maybe throw a match in the fuel tank? I have a handy opening now :)

      20171206_150257.jpg

      Yep, 5 out of the 6 bolts holding the pump in were too rusted to be able to remove. So I had to drill and smash them out.
       
    14. IronCurtain

      IronCurtain New Member

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      Here's a pic of the fuel pump assembly, and of the old and new pumps. The new one didn't fit exactly snug but I got it to work.

      20171207_083040.jpg

      20171207_084034.jpg
       

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    15. IronCurtain

      IronCurtain New Member

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      Now even more problems.

      Not too many responses, but I'll keep posting in case anybody comes across this thread in the future and it can be of help.

      Now I'm having problems with the alarm system and it not letting me start the engine (or turn it over.)

      The battery had completely died, so when I hooked jumper cables to it and opened the door I somehow set off the alarm system. It wasn't honking and all, just the flashers were going off and on and the dash lights.

      I pressed the unlock button on the keyfob, pressed the unlock button on the door, put the key in and turned it but it wouldn't shut off. I even put the factory code in the door key panel.

      So I unhooked the negative terminal on battery then reconnected it and it seemed to shut the alarm off. But when I turn the key the engine won't turn over. All the dash lights and everything come on, and I had the jumper cables connected to a running vehicle, and everything seemed to be pretty powered up.

      When it rains it farkin pours. Guess I'll be doing more explorerforum.com searching and googling tonight. :( fml
       
    16. UtahX

      UtahX Elite Explorer

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      Sorry to hear of your troubles.
       
    17. 96eb96

      96eb96 Well-Known Member

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      Does it crank? Or is it a dead battery issue. I think the alarm just controls a relay, it shouldn't prevent the PCM from starting the car. It is not like the PATS system. There may be a way to bypass it.
       
    18. 96eb96

      96eb96 Well-Known Member

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      I bet it is rusted out, I changed both lines recently. I also changed the trans lines, they didn't look too good.
       
    19. IronCurtain

      IronCurtain New Member

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      Ok well maybe good news!!! I have the car running... for the moment anyway. In case someone has trouble like I did, I'll explain what I did.

      The alarm issue:

      When the battery is dead, alarm unit doesn't know you've used your key to get into car, so once youhave door and hood open, and reconnect or charge battery... Boom.... Alarm goes off and won't turn off, because it thinks you've gotten in without key.

      I had to disconnect battery, put key in ignition and turn to on position, and then reconnect the battery. Then it has to have enough juice for everything to work. (duh) Just make sure you use key to get in or unlock button on key fob, after you've charged battery, before you try to start.

      Engine seems to be running okay after all the installs..... Not even a check engine light after letting it run and get to operating temperature! Wowzers!

      I'm terrified to drive it anywhere tho, so I think I'm going to go to the supermarket right next to to my house and drive around the parking lot for an hour just to make sure everything is on the up and up.

      I'm letting it cool down now and then I'll go out and try to start, just to make sure that it works.

      Thanks for the responses 96eb96, utahx, J8McMahon, and even daisyrocky. Fingers crossed :)
       
    20. UtahX

      UtahX Elite Explorer

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      Good Luck!
       
    21. IronCurtain

      IronCurtain New Member

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      Had truck running just perfect, drove 2 miles to Walmart, parked it, came back out it started right up. Went to pull out and it begins to die. Same issues. Pull it back into the parking spot and it dies. Cranks over, sputters and dies. Like it's starving for fuel. There wasnt a single cel on this whole time.

      I spray starter fluid, it sputters and coughs and starts up and runs rough for a min, then idles out. I drove it a couple miles, check engine light comes on and off 3 times in about 25mins, staying on for a min or 2.

      Get it home, shut it off, instantly try to restart, it sputters, coughs, runs like total shit.

      Pulled codes 111, 157, 181, and 189.

      157 Mass air flow sensor below minimum voltage.

      181 adaptive fuel rich limit reached at part throttle, right side.

      189 adaptive fuel rich limit reached, left side.

      Could I have messed up maf sensor spraying starter fluid? Why would this happen now? And what does fuel rich limit reached? Time to explorerforum.com search and Google.
       
    22. koda2000

      koda2000 Explorer Addict

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      Maybe a MAF issue as your getting "rich" indications. You're apparently getting fuel, but it sounds like the ECU isn't getting what's needed from the MAF sensor. Could be the sensor is bad or the wiring is bad. The engine not getting the right amount of air (or the ECU not thinking it's getting the right amount of air) is just as bad as a fuel problem.
       
      Last edited: December 10, 2017
    23. 96eb96

      96eb96 Well-Known Member

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      You also mentioned you have LEAN codes before, now you have RICH codes. Like KODA said a MAF can wreak havoc on driveability. The MAF computes Barometric pressure, The air percentage, and sets many of the parameters that make your engine run right.

      Clean the MAF sensor for starters(there is a chemical for it). Even simpler, disconnect it, it will use the failure tables but it will run. If it dies during idle, or has trouble starting, you may have a bad Idle air controller.

      There are scanners that can read your 95, even show livestream data (MT 2500 Red brick). There is one parameter you can check and it can tell you if the MAF matches the current BAROMETRIC pressure. But try working with the MAF first. At your mileage it is likely very dirty.

      Another problem, I'm going to throw out is a blocked cat, keep it mind.

      If you want to eliminate the egr, pull the vac line and plug it. The EGR should just stay closed. Old EGR valves can leak too, I changed mine. They cause little driveability problems...
       
    24. IronCurtain

      IronCurtain New Member

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      Thanks for the responses!!! I'm very grateful :)

      I replaced the egr sensor

      20171210_133750.jpg

      I no longer get the egr code.

      I have maf cleaner, tomorrow morning I'm going to pull the maf and inspect, also going to clean and test it.

      I'll keep in mind about the CAT, thanks!

      Also, a friend was given a 1996 explorer eddie bauer edition 4 door. Rear window blown out, rear bumper smashed in, brake line broken, and a few other odds and ends, but he is just going to junk it so he said I could take parts as I need them.

      I'm going to see if I can just buy it from him, and get one of the 2 going really well. The 96' only has 160k on it, and the exterior is in pretty good shape.

      Think the fuel pump and stuff will be interchangeable?
       
    25. 96eb96

      96eb96 Well-Known Member

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      The silver EGR sensors were a big failure point way back, so it surely don't owe you anything.

      Great to have a parts car. Check rockauto if it interchanges, it SHOULD, but there could be a different harness, etc. The internal pump should interchange.

      If you have storage you can keep/sell many parts from the 96.
       

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