Discussion in 'Modified 2011- 2019 Explorer Sport Tuning' started by EcoPowerParts, July 17, 2013.
Thanks for the heads up.
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+1 Found a 1" plumbing plug at Rona (Canada) and plugged the hose instead of removing it completely. Did only the front, since I haven't found a hose clamp tool yet. How big of a difference is it with both set to atmosphere?
The rear clamp can actually be removed by unbolting, unplugging the hardware around the hard plastic tube. Once it is sort of loose, you can slightly mAnipulate the hard plastic tube to get a better
Bite on the rear hose clamp using medium to large channel locks. I ordered
One of those hose clamp pliers as you saw from my earlier post. I was antsy this weekend and did it without it. Spent an extra 5
Minutes preparing the work area to grab that hose
CLamp. I also left the hose connected to the right side that sucks air in. I also used a .67 cent 1inch plug from lowes. I also bought the exact same chair cushion/plug to use on the front right as shown in the first picture of this thread. I used a new hose clamp that uses an 8mm socket instead of those stock clamps. Made it a lil bit easier. Btw I did not clamp the rear 1in plug. It isnt going anywhere with its own perfect, tight fit. Typing this on an iphone in bed sorry for typos. Etc
Btw. I drove around with the front only and then drove around with both. Both is louder and is noticeable with the windows up and some radio volume.
Wow, that much!? Then I'll probably have a go at it next weekend. Thanks!
SO in relation to the first picture on page one, the left circle is the BOV and it is left open, the more oval right circle is the intake side and needs to be capped to prevent contamination. There is a hose running from the BOV to the intake side, I can leave it attached and cap the free (BOV) end (securing the hose so as to prevent any movement).
Do I have all this correct? Sometimes I struggle with simple.
A picture of my front valve open, with the hose plugged next to it.
bingo! Got her done. Thanks for the pics fellas. Hope my wife likes it tomorrow!
yeah same here i left the hoses alone so its easy if i ever want to put it back. found the 1 inch plugs at lowes in the plumbing department. front was cake, the rear plug was a pain to put in, with my hand holding pliers to open the clamp i used the other and put alittle soap as lube to plug get it in there.
Finally opened up the rear valve and yes, the rear clamp was a pain! But the result was rewarding.
I can definitely hear the boost pressure releasing though the valves, with all windows closed and despite my roaring Corsa exhaust.
My wife thinks it sounds too much "Fast and the Furious"... but then deliberately drives to get the sound, so I guess it grows on you
I couldn't find suitable cap and i was so excited to hear that sound so i did it last night with what was useful.
BUT in test run there was no new sound
Here you go guys just made this video. Thanks for the information on this walk through it was perfect.
I did both front and rear.
This is Wifey's 2015 Explorer sport and this was it's first mod.
I did this mod a while back and misplaced the hoses. I wanted to put them back on but I am going to have to order new ones. Does anyone know what part number they are? Thanks
I only did the front hose and eventually got tired of hearing it go off too often. I put my hose back on and used aftermarket clamps to secure it. The sound gets old after awhile in my opinion.
Hey did you ever find out what was wrong? I'm kind of curious to know what you did wrong or maybe is your motor not boosting? Anyways.... No one never answered you back and you never posted anything following your original.... So I must ask.
I was able to buy some high temp BLACK rubber caps (475F) comes in pack of 10 (1"X1.5") from
Just a FYI
While at the oil change garage today, I noticed the two open end hoses that I had open to the atmosphere were oozing with a little bit of oil residue. I will be reinstalling these hoses as soon as the engine cools down. I dont want that residual oil to start cooking on exhaust parts and making an already stinky car at full power smell even worse. Not worth the Whoosh sound anymore.
Bumping this old post, as I recently modified mine to VTA and the concern you brought up is exactly why some owners installed a catch can.You should look into this considering you are seeing oil and it is now making its way into your intake manifold.
Loving the Choo Choo / blowoff noise. Lucky for me the back pipe had already blown off after 500 miles from new. Removal was easy.
Just did this mod on mine and while in the process of doing it I too noticed oil residue in the tubing (both the recirc tubes and the intake tubing). Not a lot, just some residue. Is this a common issue with these engines or cause for concern. Our sport only has 10,XXX miles on it and no other mods.
Not that familiar with the turbo setup but when you mentioned intake tubing is that the air intake to the filter? There have been issues with that in the past on non turbos.
I guess maybe I am using the wrong phrasing. It was the tube coming off the rear turbo that both of the bov recirculation hoses plug into. Just figured it was some kind of intake tube. Also the rear BOV has a little oil residue inside of the vent opening. Again nothing crazy. Just curious if it was a known issue or I should maybe be concerned.
Just vented to atmosphere the forward blow off valve. No additional HP, but she sure sounds faster! Ha. Love it.
The pipe connected to the turbos and intercooler is called a CAC (cold air charge) pipe.
The oil residue you see, is PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) blowby vapor, that you do not want recirculated back into the intake manifold; as it increases carbon buildup in our EB engines.
This is one of the main reasons, I decided to vent the blowoff valves to the atomosphere and I will be installing a catch-can also.
Bumping this thread for curiosity sake. Has anyone installed an aftermarket blow off valve, such as the HKS SSQV or similar for a different sound/pitch? I see turbosmart is actually selling a kit that is specific to the 3.5L ecoboost (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tbs-ts-0215-1371/overview/) but there is no real reason for one over another as long as the springs are correct for the boost.
Also - it appears that the stock recirculation valves are electrically operated. I'm assuming this is done via throttle position (negative voltage from throttle sensor opens valve), but I see no real reason why we can't do it as a vacuum operated valve (which is what most BOV are triggered by). Does anyone know if you get a CEL if the recirculation valves are unplugged?