Explorer stalls when put in reverse | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

Explorer stalls when put in reverse

jks316

New Member
Joined
October 23, 2002
Messages
7
Reaction score
0
City, State
kentucky
Year, Model & Trim Level
1997 Explorer
Hey All,
Last week my EX dies while backing out of a parking lot, nothing major I thought. Now it dies everytime I put it in reverse. I took it to a ford dealer and they say replace torque convertor and overhaul transmission. I thought I would notice some slipping if this was the transmission - anyone else experience a problem like this or any suggestions. A new tranny doesn't fit into my pocketbook at this time.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Could be your IAC (idle air controller). Doesn't even sound like a transmission problem from your description. Post more info on the description if you can. It sounds more like an idle control problem to me.

mikeh
 






The transmission has a couple of one way clutches

that can fail. Are you sure that everything is fine in the other gears? There is also a probability that your overdrive is not working now. Is your rpm a little higher on the highway?
 






I haven't noticed the RPM's on the highway..but now my overdrive light has started flashing on and off. I have parked it for now, don't want to any more damage. Alot of people have suggested the idle control valve. Some seem to think it may be the torque convertor...I am totally at a lost and broke right now too on top of this. When I put it in reverse and barely give it gas it won't stall , but if I completely hit the brake it dies. Also on my slip pfrom the ford dealer it read - DPFE anyone know what that means?
 






DPFE is part of the EGR system. I wouldn't worry too much about it now, you have bigger things to worry about.

Sounds like a tranny issue to me as long as the idle seems normal out of gear. If I were you, I would reset the computer and see if that fixes it. If it doesn't, oh well, you dont have a lot to lose at this point.
 






If you're really broke

Join the rest of us who are rebuilding transmissions. These are an easy transmission to work on. Just think of it as replacing a big starter. Only part that is work is the removal and most repairs are around $100. The torque converter is probably still good.
 






ok guys I put in a new torque convertor and guess what -- it still dies in reverse. I was going to keep it another year but I think I will find it another home and buy me something else -- any suggestions on what to buy -- my husband swears by Fords - but i am thinking of maybe an isuzo rodeo .
 






Too bad I recently bought a 97

I would have bought that in a heartbeat. So did you pull the tranny out or did someone else. Seems a shame to have not taken an hour to go through the transmission at that time.
 






explorer driving me nuts

Does anyone have a clue as to what else I could try for my explorer. When in reverse on a slope/incline and you does have to give it gas it rolls fine. If you barely give it gas in reverse on flat ground it is sorta iffy with some hesitation - but if you give it gas in reverse it completely kills the engine with a clunk noise also. Anyone have any suggestions.
 






Just going to say that why in god's name would you get an Isuzu...? I couldn't think of a worse car to get besides maybe a Hyundai...not only are they slow, but they're ugly! Wow those Isuzus are ugly trucks.

As for the transmission...does it rev up and then die or does it just die when you give it gas in reverse?
 






It just dies when I give it gas, sometimes if I just barely give it gas it will make it. As for the Isuzu , a guy I work with bought one and the price makes it tempting. I love my Explorer and always said i would buy another one - but not so sure now. I really can't complain about mine, it has never given me any trouble in 5 yrs and 80,000 miles -- but this one thing and it has everyone baffled. My husband is a ford man - so I'll probably have to go with a Ford if I get another one. ANy suggestions as to what could be wrong ---- I have heard everything from bad gas to the rear end being out.
 






jks, How many miles on your explorer? It still sounds like it might be just a vacum leak. Does it have the problem more in cold weather??? Does it only have the problem when starting after being cold??? If these are the cases I might try the 00M12 ONP Ford issue.

mikeh
 






reverse/high clutch

overdrive clutch, overdrive one way clutch, and the reverse/low band are used to make reverse. If the reverse band doesn't work, I know it won't go into reverse and it won't stall. I suspect that the overdrive one way clutch as gone. Basically you are telling the transmission to go forward and back at the same time. Still would like to know who took the transmission out. Replacing torque converter was as likely to fix the transmission as changing the backup light.
 






My explorer has 80,000 miles maybe 81,000 it has been locked in four wheel drive twice -- been drove by a woman for almost all of the 80,000. My husbands buddy put the torque convertor in because we took it to a ford dealer and they charged me 65 bucks to hook it up to a computer and to tell me to replace the torque convertor which was 229.00 bucks and he charged me 150.00 bucks to put it in. Now the ford company says we bought a bad torque convertor. I don't care to go with a new transmission , if that fixes the problem - but I hate to sink any more money in it and then the transmission not be the problem. We tried the vacuum hoses -- and the guy says they are fine. I had read on here somewhere that a jeep died in reverse and all that was wrong was a vacuum hose.
 






Hello,

I am having a very similar issue with my 2002 Explorer. It was dropping RPM and stalling at long red lights as well as stalling when reversing out of my parking space. I replaced the IAC valve and it has not stalled at lights or while idling since. The RPMs hover just under 1000. However, it still dies in reverse. I am going to check the tranny fluid when I get out of work (because somehow, I hadn't thought to do that), but is there anything else that could be causing this issue? The check engine light is not on, and it is not giving any codes.

Thank you.
 






Hello,

I am having a very similar issue with my 2002 Explorer. It was dropping RPM and stalling at long red lights as well as stalling when reversing out of my parking space. I replaced the IAC valve and it has not stalled at lights or while idling since. The RPMs hover just under 1000. However, it still dies in reverse. I am going to check the tranny fluid when I get out of work (because somehow, I hadn't thought to do that), but is there anything else that could be causing this issue? The check engine light is not on, and it is not giving any codes.

Thank you.
Hello,

I am having a very similar issue with my 2002 Explorer. It was dropping RPM and stalling at long red lights as well as stalling when reversing out of my parking space. I replaced the IAC valve and it has not stalled at lights or while idling since. The RPMs hover just under 1000. However, it still dies in reverse. I am going to check the tranny fluid when I get out of work (because somehow, I hadn't thought to do that), but is there anything else that could be causing this issue? The check engine light is not on, and it is not giving any codes.

Thank you.
 






Have anybody figured out what it is with the 2003 Ford sport Trac stalls n reverse
 






OK, since nobody has replied to this, and others are having the same problem, I'll tell you what I found.
I have a Sport Track XLT 4WD 4L.

The intake manifold seals were hard and leaking air.
There were a few other vacuum leaks that I fixed by buying new vacuum hoses.
Doing the intake manifold seals is a bigger sized job, b/c I took the entire top end off down to the heads.
After putting it back together, i did and did a total tune up on it.
While in there I replaced the thermostat housing and all that hoses, sensors and seals.
In fact, I replaced every seal that I could, and think I got them all.
There's NO KIT for this job like in the olden days, like what FelPro would provide.
So you have to PIECE IT TOGETHER one seal at a time.
Also, I got the injectors cleaned professionally.
Every vehicle needs that done at least every 80k miles.
Now it runs like new!
Lots'a power!

This is how I figured out there were vacuum leaks:
I built a 'DIY' SMOKE GENERATOR.
I made my own for about $35.
Got the plans off of eBay for $5.

A smoke generator pushes smoke into the intake/EGR system, and if you have leaks, they will show up as smoke leaking out.
The smoke can leak out anywhere around the engine's top end, it can leak out of the exhaust pipe (if you have any bad valves) in the head, it can leak out of the EGR and EVAP system (can go all the way to the gas tank area!), and it can leak out of the oil fill (if you have bad rings). The SMOKE GENERATOR is an AMAZING tool if you know how to use it and look carefully to the results of using it.

I usually hook up the smoke generator to the brake vacuum hose (the one that goes to the brake booster), and also plug the intake right at the throttle body opening (a plastic bag with rubber bands). You hook it up to your battery and wait for about 15 minutes to a half an hour. I PROMISE, if you have leaks (even tiny little leaks!) they will BILLOW SMOKE! You may need a flash light (I use a head beam) to see where the smoke is coming from in dark areas like behind the engine or under things.

Once you find the LEAKS (if you have them), then you can figure out what you have to do to fix them.
The SMOKE GENERATOR is my GO-TO TOOL when doing RUNABILITY diagnostics.

If you want to take a crack at this, try looking up on the Internet "DIY SMOKE GENEREATOR".
Here's a page I found:
DIY smoke generator - Google Search:
Mine is made with a paint can, inlet + outlet plumbing (compressed air regulated to 2 psi MAX!), nichrome wire with insulated connectors, wrapped around a tiki torch wick (inside the can), and about an inch of mineral spirits on the bottom of the can, which makes the smoke when the nichrome wire heats up red hot (but doesn't ignite the mineral spirits). The nichrome wire hooks up to your car battery.

If you 'smoke' your engine and don't find any leaks, then you really should look to see if you have any DTC's (trouble codes).
You really should'a done that first anyways!
That will get you going in the right direction.

I also found the IAC to be a problem when it stalls while coasting, or for no other reason when stopped or going down the road. The DTC's for that were stupid when I checked them (they had conflicting advice in the OEM service diagnostics manual), so I just took a chance (educated guess) based on past experience and stuff I read in these forums. I found the IAC goes bad about every 50k miles.

Good luck to anybody who reads this!
 






Back
Top