Dismiss Notice



Register Today It's free! This box will disappear once registered!

Ford A4LD transmission rebuild diary - How to rebuild Ford A4LD

Discussion in 'General Explorations!!' started by Glacier991, January 20, 2004.


  • Searches ExplorerForum.com
    1. TheRookie

      TheRookie Traveling SAS guru

      Joined:
      October 19, 2002
      Messages:
      2,394
      Likes Received:
      0
      Trophy Points:
      0
      City, State:
      West Chester PA
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      91 explorer xlt
      Another needed tool is a torque wrench. One that goes down LOW, 10 ft lbs if memory serves (not claiming it does)
       
    2. Support EF

      Join the Elite Explorers for $20

      Explorer Forum has probably saved you that much already, and will continue to save you money as you learn how to diagnose fix problems yourself, and learn which modifications work without having to experiment on your own. Elite Explorer members see practically no ads, can add their own profile photo, upload photo attachments directly to your posts and Media Gallery, create more private Conversations, and more. Join Today. Your support is greatly appreciated.


      to hide adverts.
    3. Opera House

      Opera House Well-Known Member

      Joined:
      August 19, 2002
      Messages:
      2,106
      Likes Received:
      0
      Trophy Points:
      46
      City, State:
      Cincinnati, OH
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      2014 Explorer 3.5L base
      I enjoy any quest for knowledge. Bulletproof A4LD, everything mentioned didn't include the parts that went bad on mine. Just don't think you can make it that much better when you consider the cost. I could never imagine putting in a shift kit. Over 100K of driving I never felt anything strange. My only mods are to keep it cool. Rebuilding an A4LD doesn't have to be expensive. One should even consider a partial rebuild. I know I'm cheap, I should be repairing cars in Cuba. I just put my transfer case back together with pieces of beer can in it, rebuilt the belt tensioner and the $10 starter solenoid.
       
    4. Eli 91 XLT

      Eli 91 XLT New Member

      Joined:
      July 31, 2003
      Messages:
      44
      Likes Received:
      0
      Trophy Points:
      0
      City, State:
      Central Valley, Cali
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      '91 XLT
      Pic of pan

      Opera, I'm cheap too, I think the HD torque converter will be the most expensive part or my rebuild. I have the manuals on the way to start reading.

      Opera, what does your tranny cooling system consist of? I'm definately adding a 2nd cooler.
      What went bad in your tranny??

      One thing is for sure, everyone seems to agree that heat is public enemy #1 for the a4ld.

      Here's a pic of my transmission pan. Doesn't look good. Anyone care to anylize?
      [​IMG]
       
    5. Opera House

      Opera House Well-Known Member

      Joined:
      August 19, 2002
      Messages:
      2,106
      Likes Received:
      0
      Trophy Points:
      46
      City, State:
      Cincinnati, OH
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      2014 Explorer 3.5L base
      Cooling is just a decent standard external cooler and the external filter. Mostly I like the filter for adding an almost extra quart of fluid. Unless you have some seal problem, the clutches will still look pretty good. This leads one to think that if you can keep the seals cool the transmission should have a long life. There will always be random mechanical failures. I will be getting the new cast tranny pan. Extra fluid adds a longer time constant to temperature swings. Nice when you stop moving or have short term bursts of heat. Think of putting a pan of hot water on the stove. The water is allready hot(130+) and look how long it takes before it boils. Water does have a higher heat capacity but it oes give you an idea how much heat two extra quarts can absorb.

      I was on one site and this company was very proud of only having a 5% return on rebuilt torque converters in warranty. Think of 1 in 20 transmissions having to be pulled again. Think someone ought to have pictures showing what their HD is like compared to standard, like they did with FRAM filters.

      Don't all pans look like that? My 97 looked just like that when I dropped the pan @ 106K and it is still running 42K later. No chunks of metal is good. I found needle bearings in my pan and it ran without a single noise.
       
    6. SteveVB

      SteveVB Elite Explorer

      Joined:
      July 8, 1999
      Messages:
      2,525
      Likes Received:
      0
      Trophy Points:
      0
      City, State:
      Gaithersburg, Maryland
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      04 Rubicon w/stuff
      I had two work spaces - both wood topped. 4x8 would be nice, I had one that was maybe 20" wide and 36" long, and another that was 2'x4'. More space the better. Nice to be able to spread the parts out and keep the assemblies in order. Get a box of zip lock bags to hold parts and assemblies, mark the bags with a sharpe and you are set. I would not use carpet- fibers and such, plus it will get soaked with fluid and wont keep things clean. A nice flat wipable surface would be best.

      A transmission holer would be good- I didnt take the time to gfab one up, but in hindsight it would save a ton of time trying to get the various drums, supports, washers and seals to slide into place if I had the trans in a jig to hold it upright.

      Get some petroleum jelly for assembly.

      You do need a INCH/lb torque wrench.
       
    7. Glacier991

      Glacier991 EF Tranny Guru Moderator Emeritus

      Joined:
      February 8, 2003
      Messages:
      9,835
      Likes Received:
      7
      Trophy Points:
      48
      City, State:
      Sacramento, CA 95827
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      1992 XLT
      Operahouse - what parts failed in your transmission? Were they common failure mode parts or a random occurrence in your opinion? As for shift kits, the one I was initially considering was just the Sonnax one for control pressure. Hardening the bore seemed to make sense, esp if I could discern any taper or other out of round condition. I'm interested in knowing what people's transmission failure experiences have been.

      Chris
       
    8. 410Fortune

      410Fortune ELITE BRONCO2ERER Moderator Emeritus

      Joined:
      August 3, 2000
      Messages:
      21,903
      Likes Received:
      3
      Trophy Points:
      0
      City, State:
      Crawlorado
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      B2 Mod
      I cant wait to follow this rebuild.
      I had my A4LD, 160K miles, well maintained, (never touched still working when pulled), 93 Explorer trans rebuilt by a guy who had been building Ford autos for HD applications for a long long time.
      All hard parts were replaced and every possible update was performed. I dont claim to know much about building a durable A4ld, but I figured I could chime in with my experience thus far.

      Transmission was installed in my BII last year, truck was onverted to a automatic at the same time including trucks PCM and necessary wiring. I used the floor shifter from a 2wd 84 BII, Explorer kick down cable and BII floor pedal assembly and master cyl blockoff plate :)

      The Explorer a4ld was fitted with a 84 ranger shift arm, to work with my bell crank and floor shifter.

      I cut the Explorer metal lines about 3-4" after they leave the trans & radiator. I flared the 4 end fitting pieces. I got the HD highest temp trans cooler lines I could get, routed the lines through the frame and to the radiator. I mounted a Hayden motorhome trany cooler in series with the stock Ford 3 core aluminum Ex radiator, 11 blade fan and HD clutch. I also replaced the Ford transmission mount and the T case gasket.

      The torque converter was tested for hub runout and it was a HD braised unit from a local performance builder.
      I believe the front pump seal of choice was a brass unit.

      The A4LD works great! I use it or DD, towing, and 4x4ing. 4 months after install it blew a front pump seal.
      New seal was pushed in and the converter was replaced, excessive hub runout.
      Has been working fine ever since.

      I have also added the aluminum pan with drain port and sender port. Autometer phantom trans temp gage.
      I use the motocraft A4LD filter and change the fluid regularly.
      I do have some sheilding beteen the exhaust and shift solenoids, and the trans cooler lines and headers.
      I also purchased the AutoFAB transmission mount (WOW what a difference).
      The tempature stays between 135-150 degrees under regular driving, has seen 180 when towing.
      I plan to get a better cooler and possibly a aux fan I can flip on.

      The trans should hold up, I ma hoping for at least 100K. I see a C5 in my trucks future however (trail rig).

      Since my rebuild I have heard stories of the A4ld being rebuilt with all the guts of the later model automatic, and it working very well, while still retaining the computers 1-2 shift, 3-4 shift and converter lock up.

      I am looking forward to getting the Apten chip to elp with the shift points. OD is pretty useless on the street in town, with 33's and 4.10 gears a little room for improvement is to be expected. Also the BII floor shifter likes to jump from D to OD wheen wheeling...possibly the bell crank and solid shift linkage with the BII body flex is too much, the Autofab mount helped greatly.

      The a4ld can be built to work well and last if cared for, at least thats what I keep tlling myself! hahaha so far so good.....
       
    9. Glacier991

      Glacier991 EF Tranny Guru Moderator Emeritus

      Joined:
      February 8, 2003
      Messages:
      9,835
      Likes Received:
      7
      Trophy Points:
      48
      City, State:
      Sacramento, CA 95827
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      1992 XLT
      Ok here's the promised tool list:

      Tools For A4LD Rebuild

      Required - Front Pump alignment tool set (available aftermarket or as part OTC 74P-77103A-H (The C-3 Ford Toolset)

      Clutch Spring Compressor (aftermarket)

      Measuring tools - dial indicator and depth micrometer or caliper with ability to measure depths, flat feel gauges to measure clutch pack clearances. Optional - inside bore expansion gauge set and micrometer to measure valve body bores.

      Torque Wrench capable of 10 ft lbs readings accurately (1/4 inch drive) an one for 30 ft lbs (3/8)

      Other tools:

      Bench mounted transmission holder (not at all essential, but nice)

      A4LD Bench Mount Adapter
      OTC 93T-77002-AH

      (Or see OperaHouse post below about using an engine stand mounted to the pan bolt holes - great idea)

      Extension Housing Seal Replacer (Can be improvised, part of the 74P-7000 C-3 toolset (2WD)

      Extension Housing Seal Remover (can be improvised) OTC - 77L-7697-E (2WD)

      Extension Housing Bushing Replacer (can probably be improvised) OTC - 77L-7697-F (2WD)

      Convertor End Play Checking Tool (useful for checking if the end play is acceptable if you plan to reuse the TC, or checking the work of the rebuilder. If you are buying a rebuild and trust them, this tool is not necessary) OTC - 80L-7902-A

      Neutral Start Switch Socket (Thinwall socket will work just fine) OTC- 74P-77247-A

      Lip Seal Protectors (Awfully nice to have on reassembly but not critical) 74P 77548 - A, B

      Front pump seal remover (for use with slide hammer - a time saver - bu prbably any internal puller would be just as good) OTC 74P-77248-A

      Overrunning Clutch Replacement Guide (again really nice, time saver - may not be needed on 4.0's) OTC- 74P 77193-A

      Front Pump Seal Replacer (can be improvised)
      OTC 87L-77248-AH

      Front Pump Seal Staking Tool (can be easily improvised) OTC 87L-77248-BH

      Thrust Washer Select Tool (still waiting to see on this) OTC 86L-70014-A

      Servo Rod Selecting Tool (Still waiting to see on this) OTC 74P-77190-A

      Shift Level Seal Replacer (easily improvised)
      OTC- 74P-77498-A

      Gauge Bar (For selecting 1,4 and 5 bearings/washers) can be improvised OTC 93T-77003-AH

      Obviously, some snap ring pliers, a set of inside and outside is nice.

      For the substitutions...

      Bearing pullers, usual complement of tools, including large sockets (use as seal drivers, or better get yet actual seal drivers) A pilot bearing puller is invaluable.

      I'm sure I have left something out, and I'll edit this as I find out what. You will notice that most of the tools are from the old 1974 C-3 tool set.

      Chris
       
      Last edited: September 11, 2004
    10. Opera House

      Opera House Well-Known Member

      Joined:
      August 19, 2002
      Messages:
      2,106
      Likes Received:
      0
      Trophy Points:
      46
      City, State:
      Cincinnati, OH
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      2014 Explorer 3.5L base
      I had two failures in the OD. First failure was the welds on the OD planetary gear assembly. Next failure was the castle teeth on the OD drum that mates with the star washer adaptor. Suspect the star washer was bent and by a year later it bent even more. A cheap part that probably should be replaced every time. They easily get a bow of over 0.020 that isn't noticed. Previous rebuilder even left one friction clutch out of forward clutch. Also after over 50K, the OD clutch and HI REV were still 0.030 tighter than they should be because the replacement steel plates were too thick. Tranny fluid looked like black motor oil at the first 6 month change.
       
    11. Glacier991

      Glacier991 EF Tranny Guru Moderator Emeritus

      Joined:
      February 8, 2003
      Messages:
      9,835
      Likes Received:
      7
      Trophy Points:
      48
      City, State:
      Sacramento, CA 95827
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      1992 XLT
      OperaHouse - Thanks. The heavy duty welded planetary for the OD was on my list (number 3). I recalled your post some time ago about the star washer, once once I had everything apart planned to replace it - seemed silly not to. The exploded view isn't very helpful, so I thought I'd wait until it was disassembled.

      On that upgrade/replace list I plan to add the rear crank pilot bushing as a replacement too.

      And so the list grows. Hope to start the teardown this coming weekend. (So you can see naked trannie pix).

      Also need to get up lighting and stuff for the video. I am hoping to reduce this entire process into a video or DVD.
       
      Last edited: February 7, 2004
    12. Eli 91 XLT

      Eli 91 XLT New Member

      Joined:
      July 31, 2003
      Messages:
      44
      Likes Received:
      0
      Trophy Points:
      0
      City, State:
      Central Valley, Cali
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      '91 XLT
      Glacier, I'd be glad to give you a few pesos for a copy of that video. I also plan on donating to this site to help the cause :)

      My ?: Around how much does the tranny weight with all components inside?? Which way do you want to mount pointing up?

      Also, if you want Autocad dwgs. done for anything (such as your fixture), I can do those as well. Just give me a sketch, and I'll make it look good. It's my profession.
       
    13. Opera House

      Opera House Well-Known Member

      Joined:
      August 19, 2002
      Messages:
      2,106
      Likes Received:
      0
      Trophy Points:
      46
      City, State:
      Cincinnati, OH
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      2014 Explorer 3.5L base
      An engine stand works well to hold the transmission. You can get a cheap one as low as $29. Nice that it has wheels and is a convienient height to work on. I used a three point mount to the pan mount with extra long bolts and additional spacer. Be sure to use an extra large washer on the pan face to prevent any surface dings. Remove the valve body on the bench or ground, and attach the engine frame pivot. Then you can lift it into the stand. Without valve body, fluid and TC the transmission weighs about 120#. Just a guess, I was able to do it alone. The tranny easily spins around on the stand as this seems to be the center of gravity. The official mounts hold it from the tailstock which seems awkward. The only need to get into the valve body area is to remove the center support screw which is easy enough with the mount in place.
       
    14. SteveVB

      SteveVB Elite Explorer

      Joined:
      July 8, 1999
      Messages:
      2,525
      Likes Received:
      0
      Trophy Points:
      0
      City, State:
      Gaithersburg, Maryland
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      04 Rubicon w/stuff
      The engine stand is a great idea- thks Opera

      Eli- Opera hinted at it, but you need to get to both the front and the back of the transmission, also the bottom.
      The ability to turn the trans up and down on the engine stand is a great idea.
       

      Elite Explorer members see practically no ads, can add their own profile photo, upload photo attachments directly to your posts and Media Gallery, create more private Conversations, and more. Join Today. Your support is greatly appreciated.
    15. Eli 91 XLT

      Eli 91 XLT New Member

      Joined:
      July 31, 2003
      Messages:
      44
      Likes Received:
      0
      Trophy Points:
      0
      City, State:
      Central Valley, Cali
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      '91 XLT
      Thanks guys. I'll see if I can borrow an engine stand, but don't mind spending 50 bucks for a new good tool.

      Side note: I don't believe I've heard anyone mention the ATSG manuals? I just got mine in the mail yesterday and have only peeked inside. So far I like what I see. I paide 30 bucks for them from transmission exchange co. Don't want this to sound like a huge plug, but Spencer over there at txchange has been the only person that has responded to my multiple e-mails about parts, etc in a very timely and descriptive manner. There were a couple others that I'm still waiting for prices/responses, but they're the ones that wont get my biz. :p
       
    16. Glacier991

      Glacier991 EF Tranny Guru Moderator Emeritus

      Joined:
      February 8, 2003
      Messages:
      9,835
      Likes Received:
      7
      Trophy Points:
      48
      City, State:
      Sacramento, CA 95827
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      1992 XLT
      I have the first ATSG manual, but not the upgrade manual from them. I have the FORD manual as well. I intend to get the ATSG upgrade manual. The ATSG manual covers the basics, the FORD manual is more detailed. (ATSG basically edits out of the FORD manuals).
       
    17. Glacier991

      Glacier991 EF Tranny Guru Moderator Emeritus

      Joined:
      February 8, 2003
      Messages:
      9,835
      Likes Received:
      7
      Trophy Points:
      48
      City, State:
      Sacramento, CA 95827
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      1992 XLT
      Ok, I started doing some research on parts pricing. I do not have all the specifics but I was astonished at the differential in prices between some of the local outlets. Aceomatic for example quoted me $45 on an aftermarket heavy duty OD planetary. Transtar wanted $90 for the OE one, said they found it as good as the aftermarket HD units (maybe they liked the markup better?). Sonnax's website has the Reamer and jig for the oversized boost valve for $105. Transtar wanted $200 for it. Rebuild kits go all over the map, as they contain varying things. Tough to do an apples and oranges comparison as a result. I'll try and have more info tomorrow on pricing - just a caveat... SHOP around.
       
    18. Opera House

      Opera House Well-Known Member

      Joined:
      August 19, 2002
      Messages:
      2,106
      Likes Received:
      0
      Trophy Points:
      46
      City, State:
      Cincinnati, OH
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      2014 Explorer 3.5L base
      The engine stand comes with four L mounting brackets. These are basically flat steel with a long slot in it. On the end is welded a couple inch pipe section you pass a bolt through to the pan holes. I think I put a couple oversize nuts and a washer on to extend it out a little further. This may have been only because my bolts were extra long. On the engine stand is just a flat plate that you bolt these adaptors to. Three is just all you need to suport it. So the only thing you need to buy extra is three long metric bolts. The rotational section of the stand easily removes so you don't have to be supporting the transmission while you are putting in the bolts.

      From what I have gathered, the planetary gear was only a common problem the first two years. Transtar has a rebuilt TC for about $120. Do most people really need anything better? Are you doing walk in with Transtar? A little wierd to deal with but I like their prices. Being able to walk in with a TC saves you $80 in shipping.
       
    19. Glacier991

      Glacier991 EF Tranny Guru Moderator Emeritus

      Joined:
      February 8, 2003
      Messages:
      9,835
      Likes Received:
      7
      Trophy Points:
      48
      City, State:
      Sacramento, CA 95827
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      1992 XLT
      Opera - yeah I am fortunate, I have several suppliers locally (including Transtar) so I can do a walk in with whomever. There is even a TC rebuilding company (PDQ) locally as well. One trans shop I spoke with was for one reason or another unhappy with PDQ, I'll check into that before I'd buy there again - but have bought TC's from them before, and have no personal knowledge of anything bad or wrong with them. I'll admit that at the moment my knowledge quotient about the differences between TC's in terms of quality is limited - still have homework to do on that front. And for the record, for MY application, I don;t plan to go the Pro Torque route - too much money. If I was a rock crawler, I might - it DOES sound "state of the art".
       
    20. Eli 91 XLT

      Eli 91 XLT New Member

      Joined:
      July 31, 2003
      Messages:
      44
      Likes Received:
      0
      Trophy Points:
      0
      City, State:
      Central Valley, Cali
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      '91 XLT

      Glacier, don't know if this will help some, but the following text is from an e-mail from txchange company. I asked them what was the differences in all these different kits, so here is the answer I got, as far as how they are supposed to be marketed:



      ----- Original Message -----
      From: "Spencer" <txchangespencer@earthlink.net>
      To: "Elias" <eliasp@bigvalley.net>
      Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2004 2:06 PM
      Subject: Re: Question for seller -- Item #2456753076


      Hey thanks, the kit does include the frictions (aka clutches). As far as kits go, the way they are supposed to be marketed is in the following order...

      =seal-up kit (includes paper gaskets and rubber o-rings)
      =basic overhaul kit (includes the previous plus sealing rings, metal clad seals)
      =banner kit (includes basic overhaul kit plus frictions)
      =master kit (includes banner kit plus steel plates)
      =super kit (includes master kit plus front band, filter, front/rear bushings, modulator)

      The kit in this auction is the super kit and is about as complete as they get. Only things missing are hard parts, washers and sprags which I have
      never personally seen in a kit. If you do the complete HD package, that has the super kit as well as the cooler kits, the converter, and the transgo valve body kit (also comes with rebuild manual), so that pretty well covers
      everything around the trans as well as the internal soft parts. At 01:29 PM
      1/29/2004 -0800, you wrote:


      For me, it kinda helped, but what one company markets, might be different from another.

      I'm wondering which "washers" he's talking about that aren't included. All thrust washers?
       
    21. Glacier991

      Glacier991 EF Tranny Guru Moderator Emeritus

      Joined:
      February 8, 2003
      Messages:
      9,835
      Likes Received:
      7
      Trophy Points:
      48
      City, State:
      Sacramento, CA 95827
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      1992 XLT
      Well, first go at parts shopping. My initial estimate of about $750 is going to be pretty close I think. (omitting certain tool costs).

      I bought my parts from the new owners of Aceomatic, which is now called ATC Distribution Group. They were interested in the project and were very helpful. I have only gotten part of my list, but here goes.

      Super Rebuilder Kit (soft parts, bands, bushings, frictions, etc) The soft parts (seals and gaskets) were Transtec - my brand of choice by far. Part 56007GBF $131.51

      Adjustable Modulator wheel type - they swapped right out of the soft parts kit for the non-adjustable one. Get the WHEEL type adjustable.

      Full set of new clutch steels Part 56139G 21.74

      Reverse Low Band Part 56024 5.71

      HD OD Planet Part A56580 44.21

      6 pinion front planet - steel with hub & bearing
      Part No. 56582G 71.00

      Torque Converter * Part FM68HD 142.35

      New Bearing Type Center Support
      Part A56630B 71.06

      Sonnax Sprag Update Kit 52.33

      Cast iron Forward Drum 37.98

      OD star washer 2.85

      Flywheel Spacer 11.51

      Thicker (.015 vs .009) valve body gasket set 4.41

      #3 bearing - Center Support to OD 39.70
      (this item is an upgrade from a thrust washer to an impossibly skinny torrington needle bearing - price NOT so skinny)

      * Torque converter has brazed front fins, heat treated turbine splines, redone with upgrader stator with torrington bearings, then dnyamically balanced. A HD low stall unit.

      Replacement rear planetary $55.31 **

      Replacement rear ring gear 35 **

      Replacement ring gear Hub 25 **

      Rear Sprag 55.45 ** ??

      Intermediate Servo piston 5.79

      Overdrive Servo Piston 6.19

      Superior Shift Kit 48.65

      TransGo Shift Kit - A4LD JR 22.31

      Solenoid 3-4 TechPak 20.48

      Overdrive assembly tin plate washer 4.16

      I still have a number of parts (thrust washers and bearings, clutch drums, (and a new pump from FORD) etc to buy. It's going to be around $750 to $850 when I am through. At least. [a damaged reverse low assembly hs added tothis! - the parts marked ** above ar replacements for those damaged]

      ps. I'm thinking after THIS project we should do a "good enough" rebuild, and see how INexpensively we can go while doing a decent job. (g) [Maybe Eli might want to be the guinea pig on this one]

      pps. If you have never bought a rebuild kit of o-rings, gaskets and seals before, you are in for a surprise. You get what looks like a "grab bag" of items, no labels, no explanation, nothing - it's a match as you go situation, we will address later. Also steel hard parts come wrapped in a corrosion resistant paper. Don't throw it away, instead cut it into pieces and put them in your tool boxes or tool box drawers. Works like a charm there too.
       
      Last edited: February 27, 2004
    22. Glacier991

      Glacier991 EF Tranny Guru Moderator Emeritus

      Joined:
      February 8, 2003
      Messages:
      9,835
      Likes Received:
      7
      Trophy Points:
      48
      City, State:
      Sacramento, CA 95827
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      1992 XLT
      Okay.... I went out and picked up an engine stand (I just needed a reason, thanks Opera House!) and put it together. Bought some 8mm x65 mm bolts, washers etc, so I was ready to pull the pan on this puppy, remove the filter and valve body and low/reverse servo and mount it on the stand - which I have done. It occurred to me alng the way that for those sufferring the dreaded inititial engagement - in forward or reverse - "klunk" it might be a good way for them to see the low-reverse servo location and to see hw easy it is to get at it - and IT my friends IS the source of THAT problem - the seal leaks. So this thread might help someone solve THAT annoying (but non-serious) complaint as well.

      I have a batch of photos to upload and put in here, so bear with me. This will kind of be the end of the preliminaries, and the beginning of phase two - tear down.
       
    23. Glacier991

      Glacier991 EF Tranny Guru Moderator Emeritus

      Joined:
      February 8, 2003
      Messages:
      9,835
      Likes Received:
      7
      Trophy Points:
      48
      City, State:
      Sacramento, CA 95827
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      1992 XLT
      As we last left off with pictures, the poor trannie was in a wheelbarrow. This picks up there.

      I rolled over the transmission and remove the pan... (note that on this transmission there was no heat shield, it wasn't from an Explorer where the heat shield is used.)

      [​IMG]

      Other than being right side up, this is what you will find under the Explorer if you remove the pan. One problem area that can be easily fixed with the transmission in the car is the low/reverse servo leakage problem - the delayed engagement in drive or reverse and the "jerk" on engagment. Here's the servo cover you need to remove:

      [​IMG]

      But before we get too far into this for those of us rebuilding the trannie, lets talk about making our lives easier. Auto trannies DO have a lot of parts - so as we disassemble this, let's bag them and label them. Lots of ways to do this - here's my favorite... baggies and a new version dymo paper tape labeller...

      [​IMG]

      So the pan bolts for example, go into the bag and get a label:
      [​IMG]

      Ok so, for those wanting to just fix the low reverse servo... it IS spring loaded, but it is not a strong spring... just be mindful there is a spring behind that cover, remove the cover bolts evenly.... and voila....

      [​IMG]

      Here's the servo out of the bore. Replace the seals using a new version and your delayed engagement problem will be solved. Use vaseline lubricant (you know how to do THIS right ?) to carefully put it back in the bore.... make sure you first remove the gasket - it tends to stay on the valve body - put IT on the servo cover which goes on last after the servo body is in the bore.

      [​IMG]

      Next remove the shifter detent spring...

      [​IMG]

      carefully pull off the wires to the 3-4shift solenoid and the tcc solenoid - the wires stay with the tranny case so need to be disconnected.

      [​IMG]

      For those of us going on past just replacing the low reverse servo.... the next step is to remove the valve body - the "brains" of the unit. There are a zillion small longish bolts. I broke them all free using a 1/4 inch socket set (10mm again) and then, being lazy -did the unthinkable! on an automatic trannie - USED AN AIR TOOL ! (not a good idea usually). Made fast work of removing the 20 something bolts. (Don't try this at home!) Seriously airtools and an aluminum case trannie should rarely ever be used together. NEVER USE AIRTOOLS TO REASSEMBLE A TRANSMISSION!!!! I think too often people pass up cleaning the valve body - I'd recommend against that. This transmission was supposedly rebuilt 5 to 10,000 miles ago, the valve body was cruddy - IT hadn't been opened up and cleaned.

      [​IMG]

      When you remove the valve body, it will at first seem stuck, when it comes free it suddenly pops loose, so be careful!. There is a "Z" bracket on a valve plunger, it needs to come off SIDEWAYS - be careful here... not to pull up but sideways... this is the "Z" backet:

      [​IMG]

      NOW, we are ready to attach the engine stand. But lets look at what we have in bags - YOU DID follow my suggestion DIDN'T YOU?

      [​IMG]

      Ok, the "head" of the engine stand can be separated from the stand. Do that to attach it to the trannie. The pan bolts are metric - 8mm. I bought 65mm long bolts and 2 washers - an 8 and a 10.... I used cardboard standoffs to protect the pan part of the case, like this:

      [​IMG]

      the head unit attached looked like this:

      [​IMG]

      and this installment ends with the trannie on the stand, for further disassembly:

      [​IMG]

      Just remember, that although it looks heavy, is a fraction the weight of an engine. The engine stand is a terrific idea - kudos to Opera House! When we start again here, we'll gut this transmission, and start comparing old parts to the ones we plan to add in! Bulletproof ? I don't know but we're going to try! Yah it's in the garden, GF was not happy about the trannie fluid leaking on her patio! (warning to guys married or living with women - put newspaper under the trannie!)
       
      Last edited: February 26, 2004
    24. Eli 91 XLT

      Eli 91 XLT New Member

      Joined:
      July 31, 2003
      Messages:
      44
      Likes Received:
      0
      Trophy Points:
      0
      City, State:
      Central Valley, Cali
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      '91 XLT
      Yeah baby, naked tranny exposed! :)

      This is greatly appreciated. My new manuals have made for some good reading, but a picture tells a thousand words.

      Your tranny looks way cleaner than mine. As soon as I remove it off the truck, I will start taking pictures to show you guys how bad it looks and what failed.

      ?:
      How much did your engine mount cost? Is there a specific kind/size? (sorry don't know jack about stands)

      Thanks
       
    25. Glacier991

      Glacier991 EF Tranny Guru Moderator Emeritus

      Joined:
      February 8, 2003
      Messages:
      9,835
      Likes Received:
      7
      Trophy Points:
      48
      City, State:
      Sacramento, CA 95827
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      1992 XLT
      The engine stand I got at Harbor Freight for $39.95 - it's a thousand pound stand - enough for any engine we'll ever work on... the trannie spins around on it easily.
       
    26. SteveVB

      SteveVB Elite Explorer

      Joined:
      July 8, 1999
      Messages:
      2,525
      Likes Received:
      0
      Trophy Points:
      0
      City, State:
      Gaithersburg, Maryland
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      04 Rubicon w/stuff
      Chris,

      May want to put a big catch pan on the legs of the stand. You can bolt a plastic pan onto the legs and then use some disposable aluminum oven pans to catch the trans fluid that will drip out, both on disassembly, and reassembly.

      Looks good.
       

    Share This Page








    We Support Our Troops!