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Ford Explorer Engine No Start Procedure

Discussion in 'Under the Hood' started by 2000StreetRod, December 23, 2009.

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    1. 2000StreetRod

      2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      This procedure diagnoses a No Start engine problem. The procedure is based on information from the Ford Service Manual and my personal experience. The numbered steps should be performed in the order listed.

      1. Does "THEFT" blink rapidly with ignition key in Off, On or Start?
      Yes: Verify key validity
      Check Passive Anti-Theft System (PATS)
      No: Go to next numbered step

      2. Check fuel tank gauge reading. If fuel possibly contains water or condensation from cold add treatment to the tank.

      3. Turn ignition key from Off to On. Does fuel pump run for a few seconds?
      Yes: Go to next numbered step
      No: Perform Fuel Pump Electrical Procedure

      4. Does "CHECK ENGINE" illuminate?
      Yes: Go to next numbered step
      No: Perform the PCM Power Procedure

      5. Turn ignition key to Start
      Does starter motor crank engine?
      Yes: Go to next numbered step
      No: Perform Starter No crank procedure

      6. Does "CHECK ENGINE" illuminate while engine cranks?
      Yes: Check crankshaft position (CKP) sensor
      One way to check the CKP sensor is to determine if the fuel pump runs when the starter is cranking. This can be done simply by listening to the pump.
      No: Go to next numbered step

      7. Check battery voltage

      8. Perform TPS Test Procedure

      9. Check ignition coils, plugs and wires. Some members have experienced ignition faults with Bosch platinum plugs.

      10. Perform Fuel pressure test procedure

      11. Check fuel injectors

      12. Check compression

      13. Check EGR system

      14. Check engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor if not a cold start
       
      Last edited: January 18, 2014
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    3. graveexplorer97

      graveexplorer97 New Member

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      does this apply for 1997 ford explorer sport
       
    4. 2000StreetRod

      2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      1996 and 1997 similar

      The basic procedure applies to your 1997. There were significant wiring changes made in 1998. Some of the linked procedures may contain minor electrical differences from your 1997. I identified some of the 1996 differences that should apply to your 1997.
       
    5. 2000StreetRod

      2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Compression check

      I suggest that you perform a compression test of at least one cylinder on each bank. Maybe your chain rattle has progressed to chain failure.
       
    6. pward1321

      pward1321 New Member

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      I am overwhelmed!

      Thank you for this proceedure.
       
    7. Kravist

      Kravist New Member

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      Thank you!

      I want to thank you for taking the time to create this procedure. It is EXCELLENT.

      Without it, I would have been screwed.
       
    8. BrooklynBay

      BrooklynBay Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Thanks for taking the time to make this thread. It's now a sticky on the top of this section. A lot of people have a no start condition at least one time if not more during the period that they own their vehicle.
       
    9. wolfman1970

      wolfman1970 New Member

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      would this apply to 2002 explorer
       
    10. 2000StreetRod

      2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      2nd generation for specifics

      There are significant differences between the 2nd and 3rd generation models so the specifics (imbedded procedures) would not apply.
       
    11. wolfman1970

      wolfman1970 New Member

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      i think i found the problem i think we have a blown head gasket ,fouled plugs ty for all the help, i got it pretty cheap so dont mind fixing or motor change
       
    12. dking

      dking Elite Explorer

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      subscribing
       
    13. coolhandguenz61

      coolhandguenz61 New Member

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      I have a 2000 explorer xlt 4.0 v6 OHV that is having a rough start, high idle, decreased performance and has check engine light on with codes P0101 and P0174. It wont turn over until cranking it 3 or 4 times and sometimes (more often than not) I have to feather the gas pedal to get it to turn over. Getting to the point, in this checklist my car's theft light blinks repeatedly while on and while starting AND the check engine stays illuminated while the engine cranks. My question is can the problem be with the PATS and the crankshaft position sensor or is it only one or the other? This weekend I am replacing the air filter, spark plugs/wires, fuel filter, checking the MAF, possibly replacing the crankshaft sensor and checking out the PATS. Thank you all for the help and will post what the aftermath is on sunday.
       
    14. 2000StreetRod

      2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      clean the MAF sensor

      P0101 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Range/Performance Problem
      P0174 System too Lean (Bank 2)

      I suggest that you check the main intake hose and air filter to make sure it is not blocked and there are no loose connections allowing air to the throttle body that bypasses the MAF sensor. Also, clean the MAF sensor element with MAF sensor cleaner and check the electrical connection. Also, check to wires to the MAF sensor for breaks or possible shorts. Focus on correcting P0101 before worrying about P0174.

      On my 2000 PATS disables the fuel injectors via the PCM. Try your other ignition key to see if you have the same results. A PATS problem is displayed by the PCM via a rapid blink vs a standard blink rate.

      Try cleaning the electrical contacts on the crankshaft position sensor by disconnecting and reconnecting the connector a couple times.
       
    15. coolhandguenz61

      coolhandguenz61 New Member

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      I must have been mistaken on my last post because my theft light is fine it does not blink repeatedly, so I think my PATS is ok. Alright so I checked the main intake hose and replaced the air filter (was a little dirty, not too bad though), removed the MAF sensor and cleaned it again and the wires seemed ok. I disconnected and reconnected the crankshaft position sensor a few times and cleaned it with electrical contact cleaner. I then removed one spark plug and it looked pretty copperish in color and the tip right next to the gap looked like it had a scorch or burn mark on it. Unfortunately I am a mechanical novice and realized I cant change the spark plugs on the ex because I would have to take apart a bunch of stuff in the way I am unfamiliar with and lack of tools. I also disconnected the negative cable on the battery after cleaning the MAF sensor because I saw somewhere on this forum to do so to reset the PCM? Hope that wasnt the wrong thing to do. Finally I fired the car up and it started the first try but it was at EXTREMELY low idle/rpm and upon driving the car it felt like it was misfiring and hesitating intermittently. The check engine light is off now but once I brought the car to 55-65 mph it became sluggish, felt like it was shuddering and hiccuping and the check engine light started flashing repeatedly and went away only coming back when I brought the car back up to 60mph. Sorry for this long winded post, Im just hoping for some help on my next course of action. I'm gonna start with taking it in and having the spark plugs/wires replaced and maybe a fuel pressure or compression test done? Thanks again streetrod for your help.
       
    16. 2000StreetRod

      2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      get the codes read

      I suggest that you take to an auto parts store and get the codes read and then post them before spending more money on things that may not need replacement.
       
    17. EricJRW

      EricJRW New Member

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      Very nice summary. Thank you.

      It would be nice if there was a link for the procedure to test the CKP. I found the test elsewhere, and basically was looking for 1 VAC at the sensor as the engine cranked. The one thing I'm not sure of is if I had to leave the connector in place and tap into the wire. With the harness off, I did not get voltage, and thus replaced my CKP (only because it was relatively inexpensive ~$15 at AutoZone). Sadly this did not solve my "no start" problem. I'm going to dig for about another day, and then it's going to the shop.
       
    18. dstro

      dstro New Member

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      This is great, but I'm stuck. I have a '99 EXPL, V6 4.0SOHC crank, no start.

      - Battery is good
      - Tested spark at cylinders and coil pack, all good
      - Just hooked up a fuel pressure gauge, turned on ignition/fuel pump, bled the pressure, repeated twice, attempted to start. Engine STARTED!
      - Observed idling pressure and acceleration pressure, appr 60 during idle, 62-65 during acceleration
      - Disconnected fuel pressure gauge, now no start again :(
      - Hooked up the fuel pressure gauge again, initial ON pressure is the same as before (around 60), but now no start
      - Tried releasing/building pressure several times, still no start

      I'm confused, I just had it running! What changed?
       
    19. BrooklynBay

      BrooklynBay Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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    20. Colorado1980

      Colorado1980 New Member

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      When was the last time the fuel filter was changed?
       
    21. Colorado1980

      Colorado1980 New Member

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      Also do you get any feeling of a misfire while cranking?
       
    22. dstro

      dstro New Member

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      Thanks, I'll double check, but wouldn't all 6 have to be failing for it to be a no start? With spark at each tower on the coil pack? Plus why would I have been able to start it three times, then ten min later nothing?

      Not Sure. That was part of my overall plan anyway, to get it started and then replace the filter. In that order just because it's stuck on an incline and jacking might be a bit sketchy. No feelings of misfire when I crank. I don't think it's a spark issue.

      When I first hooked up the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was way low until I purged and pumped a cpl times. Then it was strong and held. It's still strong and holding now, I just don't know what changed in the 5 min it took for me to disconnect and button her up.

      Thanks for the replies guys...this is extremely annoying.
       
    23. 2000StreetRod

      2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      clean CKP sensor connector

      You might try cleaning the crankshaft position (CKP) sensor electrical connections by disconnecting and reconnecting the connector a couple times.

      On my 2000 PATS disables the fuel injectors when an unrecognized ignition key is used. 60 psi is plenty of fuel pressure. Try spraying starting fluid into the intake manifold downstream of the throttle plate and see if the engine runs for a second or two. If so, then you probably have a PATS problem.
       
    24. dstro

      dstro New Member

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      Hmm...I didn't notice the THEFT signal flashing differently, but I wasn't looking too carefully, I will check. I was thinking it may be the CKP but I was getting spark, and I thought that if the CKP sensor was off, it would kill the pulses to the ignition coil? Either way...I'm gonna look into these. Thanks!
       
    25. dstro

      dstro New Member

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      ok, so I went out to check all the suggestions, above. Before doing ANYTHING I tried to start her up, and she turned over! I engaged the throttle a couple times, and was hearing a noise, when the rpms would die down to idle. Sounded like a hard revving...deeper and chunkier/clunkier than usual, but not really like misfiring cylinders, and coming from underneath the body (description sucks I know). And I didn't really hear it while sitting at an idle, only when returning, maybe 3-2000rpms. I left the engine on and had a helper accelerate on/of while I crawled underneath. There was white smoke coming from the muffler pan of the exhaust and I notice some dripping liquid. It's black (may be from dirt/rust) and more watery than oil, but it's too dirty to seem like coolant. Anyway, I had my helper kill the engine, and now I can't get it started again.

      What was the liquid? Doesn't coolant usually burn white? Why would coolant be so dirty? I feel like there's a leak somewhere in my exhaust...would this lead to a crank no start? Thanks for the suggestions...I'm not sure know which issue should take priority for diagnosis.

      Oh and starter fluid in the intake still does not start the car even for a couple seconds...doesn't that bring me back to a spark issue?
       
    26. Kravist

      Kravist New Member

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      Checking the fuel pressure is STEP 10. Did you complete the prior steps? If not, go back.

      If you have completed the prior steps:

      Assuming you are checking fuel pressure at the fuel rail, that is plenty of pressure indicating that your fuel pump is working and that your fuel filter is NOT clogged, so move on to the next step.
       

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