Fuel Tank Fill Hose removal | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Fuel Tank Fill Hose removal

Joined
March 11, 2009
Messages
13
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0
City, State
Boston, ma
Year, Model & Trim Level
96 xlt 5.0
Possibly need to remove the fuel tank(for fuel pump replacement), how do I remove the Fill hose from the tank, appears to be like 2 sided clamp? does this push in and pull on hose or does it need to be spread apart and hose pulled on?
Stock 96 Explorer 4 door V8
Thanx for the help in advance
Jim
 



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just do a twist and pull..... i replaced my fuel pump back in october, i had a full tank when it went out, so my buddy and I have dump the 20 gal fuel to a a few fuel gas cans...

good luck
 






x2

and spray everything with Wd40 (or equivelant) before to help with the clamps and such.
 






Thank you: vegasjoe1969 and Equnoxe
, guess my only question is squeeze them then pull it off or? spread the clamps, doesnt appear to be like an inline where u need a removal tool,
as always Thanx, any ideas? on th abs codes?( diffreent post/issue) C 1202 rear dump valve circuit failure or C 1101 Hydrallic valve cir failute, thats the next issue
Thanx, be well
Jim
 






nah, just spray the clamp with WD, let it soak for a few mins, then loosen the clamp off, you want to twist the end of the hose (so it spins a little bit) then you can wiggle it off. just to break it free from the tank because it kind of "fuses" with the metal after being on there for so long.

dont know codes :(
 






Equnoxe , Thank you will give that a try in the am,once I get the hose off, pump the 30 gals gas out, get to replace the fuel pump
Thanx anyway on the ABS codes, though give it a shot anyway
Thanx again for the help, Enjoy..Be Well, Jim
 






Not sure how to post pictures of what the hose connections look like before and after removal so should any one have a question the 2 hoses(vent and fill) are attached to the tank via plastic clip that stays attached to the tank, I found out from ford, they are squeezed together at the base by the tank and then you twist the hoses each way working them off the tank
again i have pictures I took should any one need them, also before you start this job, make sure you place the jack stands as far back on the axle so the tank will clear when dropped, there isnt much room to play with, I had to reposition the stands as the tank wouldnt clear the stand. also for the 4 skid plate bolts they are 13mm, if? Tank strap needed to be ordered, one day shipping but thats 13mm bolt as well , 2 bolts holding the front of the tank in the cradle are 17mm,(might also need an box wrench 17mm to remove one bolt near drivers side front( should you wind up doing it like I did with no lift
also 2 pairs of like channel locks to compress the plastic clips I mentioned above, maybe need one to break the seal where it had been in place for a long time, cant get any rust buster oil in there. the 3 bolts on the filler pipe to the body and fill door are 7mm ( easier to remove those so u can twist the hose off the tank vs both sides being un movable
one needs an 8 mm to remove the 6 bolts holding the pump and sending unit into the tank( I was told by ford that gasket is no longer available so be careful prying the tank flange from the tank, again mine is a 96 vintage, was told u could use silicone with the old gasket if the gasket is better than nothing
lastly for some reason? the pump module is held to the sending unit by 3 bolts 1/4" socket only fit, metric was too loose or too tite, make sure to mark the flange so it goes back in the tank same way as the hoses are exact fit lengths when re installing. also u need to crimp the wiring to the sending unit flange, i had some heat shrink connectors i used but? get those when you get the pump if you dont have them, you will need 2.
The frame wiring for the sending unit and pump power supply unplugs before u drop the tank all the way down and there are 3 other hose atachments on the top of the tank as well, one is plastic and squeezes together to remove and there are 2 steel lines that one needs the standard fuel filter disconnect tool for those, cant reember the size but was same as the fuel filter up under the drivers door on side of the frame
hope it helps, if some one knows how to post pictures, let me know, will include them or e mail me and will send them as needed
Thanx again for all the help
 






the plastic line on top of the gas tank, what is it for i disconnected it and when i pulled the tank out it broke
 






Not sure how to post pictures of what the hose connections look like before and after removal so should any one have a question the 2 hoses(vent and fill) are attached to the tank via plastic clip that stays attached to the tank, I found out from ford, they are squeezed together at the base by the tank and then you twist the hoses each way working them off the tank
again i have pictures I took should any one need them, also before you start this job, make sure you place the jack stands as far back on the axle so the tank will clear when dropped, there isnt much room to play with, I had to reposition the stands as the tank wouldnt clear the stand. also for the 4 skid plate bolts they are 13mm, if? Tank strap needed to be ordered, one day shipping but thats 13mm bolt as well , 2 bolts holding the front of the tank in the cradle are 17mm,(might also need an box wrench 17mm to remove one bolt near drivers side front( should you wind up doing it like I did with no lift
also 2 pairs of like channel locks to compress the plastic clips I mentioned above, maybe need one to break the seal where it had been in place for a long time, cant get any rust buster oil in there. the 3 bolts on the filler pipe to the body and fill door are 7mm ( easier to remove those so u can twist the hose off the tank vs both sides being un movable
one needs an 8 mm to remove the 6 bolts holding the pump and sending unit into the tank( I was told by ford that gasket is no longer available so be careful prying the tank flange from the tank, again mine is a 96 vintage, was told u could use silicone with the old gasket if the gasket is better than nothing
lastly for some reason? the pump module is held to the sending unit by 3 bolts 1/4" socket only fit, metric was too loose or too tite, make sure to mark the flange so it goes back in the tank same way as the hoses are exact fit lengths when re installing. also u need to crimp the wiring to the sending unit flange, i had some heat shrink connectors i used but? get those when you get the pump if you dont have them, you will need 2.
The frame wiring for the sending unit and pump power supply unplugs before u drop the tank all the way down and there are 3 other hose atachments on the top of the tank as well, one is plastic and squeezes together to remove and there are 2 steel lines that one needs the standard fuel filter disconnect tool for those, cant reember the size but was same as the fuel filter up under the drivers door on side of the frame
hope it helps, if some one knows how to post pictures, let me know, will include them or e mail me and will send them as needed
Thanx again for all the help
Thank you Jimmy, I was under my under my truck all morning trying to figure out how to get those darn filler & vent hoses detached. You've given me knew for hope the morning. BTW, I see you posted this back in 2010, it took awhile, but your good will found a target ;)
 






On my 96 I pinched and moved the white plastic tabs forward toward the tank, then compressed them further with a hose clamp. Finally I used channel locks to gently twist the connector in a back and forth motion while pulling away from the tank. This worked well for the fill hose. The vent hose I was unable to pinch and pull the tabs out of the aluminum collar and toward the fuel tank so I applied the hose clamp and compressed it where it was, being careful to keep the hose clamp from compressing the aluminum collar on the hose. Both hoses have been removed. Yes the white plastic stays on the tank nipple. From what I have heard after 96 Ford went back to simple hose clamps. There is a write up to convert the 96 to the newer 97 style filler neck and hose set up. 1996 Fuel Filler Neck Conversion

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I live in Michigan, over 2 years ago when I replaced my tank it was a time consuming and frustrating time getting these hoses off, I ended up using lots of penetrating oil and turning back and forth to clear the rust from the connector. The second time around (for a bad fuel pump) was much easier, if I remember correctly I may have used white lithium grease to ease the re-installation process.
 






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