How to: - 2nd Gen Gauge Cluster Removal and LED Conversion V2 | Page 3 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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How to: 2nd Gen Gauge Cluster Removal and LED Conversion V2

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This is my second and hopefully much more helpful writeup on converting the 95-01 gauge cluster to LEDs. I have tried 3 different types of 12v wedge based 194 replacements and I have finally found the one that puts out enough light and lights up the cluster evenly.

Here were my candidates.
From Left to Right: Inverted Wedge LED, Refractor LED, SMD LEDs
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The Results

Inverted Wedge LED: Even Light output, but not bright enough

Refractor LED: Horribly Uneven light output, Short Lifespan (they started blowing on me)

SMD (Surface Mount Diode): Even Light output and very bright (brighter the the 194LL Bulbs)

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Getting to the cluster:

Step 1
Remove the Radio
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Step 2
Remove the 2 screws (circled in red)
Disconnect the 5 wiring harness behind the bezel (circled in blue)
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Step 3
Remove the 4 screws holding the plastic panel in place. (2 are hidden under the hood release) Then pull back on the top of the panel ( it is held in by clips)
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Step 4
Remove the 3 bolts holding the metal shield in place
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Step 5
Remove the 2 screws at the bottom of the gauge bezel (note the wiring harness locations circled in blue)
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Step 6
Remove the 3 screws at the top of the gauge bezel
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Step 7
Pull out the bezel enough to disconnect the 3 wiring harnesses. (Headlight Switch, Dimmer, and Rear Parking Assist) Then Remove the bezel. (Shifter must be in 1st gear)
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Step 8
Remove the 4 screws holding in the Gauge Cluster
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Step 9
Tilt the Cluster back and remove the Shift Indicator from the cluster, there are 2 plastic tabs that must be held on each side to remove the indicator.
Disconnect the 3 wiring harness from behind the cluster, then remove the Cluster
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Now Hopefully You are holding your Instrument Cluster and can go on to the fun part.

Remove the 6 back light bulbs from the cluster. (Circled in Red)
( I also highly recommend you also remove the THEFT light LED so you don't risk blowing it like I did when I was trying to figure out how to bench test the cluster)
The PC board on the back of the cluster is flexible so you can carefully pull the contacts where the wiring harnesses attach out of the sockets so you can attach alligator clips to bench test.
(The white wires are the - and the RED and GREEN are +)
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Here are the LEDs in the sockets. ( I used a bit of hot glue to make sure they didn't come out)
100_1390.jpg


I apologize for not having a night shot of the final product, but the camera I have with me is an absolute noise box and takes terrible low light pics. When I get back my Canon ill get some pics.

Good Luck!
 



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I did the same thing with my 1996 Explorer. I used the white refractor led style and my green cluster numbers lit a nice blue color when installed. I assume in 98+ the green color of the numbers is thicker. Non of mine burnt out except in my girlfriends car in her parking lights. They started flickering.
 



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damn. i already changed my bulbs with regular ones. wish i can do this but i'm not gonna try removing that gauge cluster again. its pita.
 






Why did you do only those 6 spots? Are those just the main ones?.... Would it hurt to do the others? Is it pointless?

Also... the inverted wedge LED.. my projectors came with them.. I know they're supposed to be white.. (or so I've been told) .. why do they appear blue?.. More blue than anything 'white' in comparison anyways..
 






Why did you do only those 6 spots? Are those just the main ones?.... Would it hurt to do the others? Is it pointless?

Also... the inverted wedge LED.. my projectors came with them.. I know they're supposed to be white.. (or so I've been told) .. why do they appear blue?.. More blue than anything 'white' in comparison anyways..

The 6 ones I changed were the back light bulbs. The rest are all indicator lights.

The color of an LED comes from the element that is used in the diode, As to why they have a bluish color, I really cant answer that.
 






I can't find any of your old pictures.. and which type of LED's did you use for V1?

My 60-70mph light went out.. and it bugs the hell outta me.. some LED's would be nice as hell.... and honestly... regardless of the different light output of the different type of LED's... are they all still better than the normal 194's?

I would like to get some LED's locally... but we don't really have a wide selection around here that I know about.
 






I can't find any of your old pictures.. and which type of LED's did you use for V1?

My 60-70mph light went out.. and it bugs the hell outta me.. some LED's would be nice as hell.... and honestly... regardless of the different light output of the different type of LED's... are they all still better than the normal 194's?

I would like to get some LED's locally... but we don't really have a wide selection around here that I know about.

For V1 I used the inverted wedge LEDs. They light up the cluster evenly, but they are not as bright as the 194 bulbs. I would say they were 75% as bright as the bulbs.

Your best bet is really ebay.
 






What do you think about the 4 LED ones you can find at auto stores in the accessory section?
 

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What do you think about the 4 LED ones you can find at auto stores in the accessory section?

Not Good. They wont light the cluster up evenly, they will only make hot spots since they do not have LEDs angled horizontally.
 






say i wanna do this conversion what all do i need to purchase and can it be done in a weekends time?
 






Yep, make sure you order enough though, its more of the fact of just removing the cluster to access the lights, then swapping them takes about 5 mins.
 






It will take roughly a half hour to get to the cluster on your first try.
 






ok sweet deal that is do able. ok next thing what exactly do i need to get and a rough price on this mod
 












now i have been contenplating this mustang and as you may have saw on my other posts i change everything to blue except for the cluster i know there is a greentint in this cluster and i was wondering if you knew if it was just a plastic tint sheet or actually painted on
 






now i have been contenplating this mustang and as you may have saw on my other posts i change everything to blue except for the cluster i know there is a greentint in this cluster and i was wondering if you knew if it was just a plastic tint sheet or actually painted on

Sorry I really don't know the answer to that. I haven't looked at that part of the cluster.
 






Mustang, thanks alot for all your intel! I'm joining this forum from across the Atlantic because of you! Can you please let me know whether your SMD LEDs are white colored (and that the green appearance of the dials comes from the numbers themselves) or are your LEDs green in color?
 






Glad to help. The SMD LEDs are white. The green color comes from a green film on the back of the numbers.
 






now i have been contenplating this mustang and as you may have saw on my other posts i change everything to blue except for the cluster i know there is a greentint in this cluster and i was wondering if you knew if it was just a plastic tint sheet or actually painted on

it is painted on. you can scrap it with a knife, or use 220 sandpaper. the heater controls have a tint sheet that can be easily removed.
 






Thanks again, Mustang! The LEDs have been bought off eBay already!:thumbsup:
 



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Could I bug ya to post a pic of your V1 conversion? I can get the inverted LED's for cheaper and easier than the SMDs.. (although.. I do want the SMDs..) Anyway.. I'm just looking for a quick comparison.. even if it's dimmer, they'll last a lot longer than normal bulbs Anyways.. and less power.
 






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