Solved Ford Explorer 5 speed conversion - Going Full Manual

[gmanpaint]

VSS on a '95 Ranger 4x4 is on the transfer case. You could have a harness from a 2wd Ranger.

Good call on the 2WD. It could be.

I went back at it for a little bit. I thought about the stock steering column shifter. I lowered the column from the dash, and removed the shifter itself. Thinking that the steering wheel would be locked in the park position, I placed it in Neutral first. All good right? Nope. I neglected to think farther down the road. I went to remove the key, it won't come out unless it is on Park...lol Whoops.

Thats when I called it a day. I will just live with the shifter in place, until I find a manual steering column for it.

 

[gmanpaint]

Coming along nicely. Bet you cant wait to try it out. You will love the manual/manual combo. Next you will want a doubler. lol

Thank you

It has been on stands for weeks now, so yeah, you can say I want to take it out kinda bad.

Hopefully in 2 more days it is back on the trails. I have another project starting directly after this is finished on it

 

[gmanpaint]

The interior is 95% back together. Tomorrow the console boot mod goes on.
Under the hood is back together. Thing-a-ma-bobs hooked back to the whatcha-ma-call-its. Manual ECM, filter intake, fan & shroud, etc...
Drive shafts are installed.

The t-case skid and fluids are all that's left.

A good sign was when after I installed the Manual ECM, (I had to connect the battery to move the drivers seat to install it) everything seemed to work just fine.

I won't be able to test it right away as I have to remove the coil over shocks and install new eyelet bearings, before I can take it off the jack stands

I have Merc V ATF for the trans. Just for grins, What are your guys suggestions for trans fluid?

 

[gmanpaint]

Finished up everything but the shifter boot mod.

Was able to get the front coil overs repaired and back together today.

Got it back on the ground and off the jack stands.

Filled the trans with ATF.

Connected the battery and went to start it for the first time. NOTHING.

Starter wont engage. I do not have the CPP hooked up as I could not find it for the life of me after several attempts to locate it.

All the dash lights come on when the key is turned, and the fuel pump primes. Everything electrical works with the key forward.

So....If I do not have a CPP stock hiding somewhere, how do I go about installing one?

Wouldn't the starter engage anyways even if the CPP was not installed? OR...does this mean I have one and it needs to be hooked up or bypassed for the starter to engage?

Oh, I did hook the BOO back up to the brake pedal if that matters. I did depress the brake when turning the key also, nothing.

 

[rickybobby]

The ecm is going to need a signal from the cpp to allow it to crank, if you can get a pin-out diagram of the ecm, it should tell you what wires to jumper together.

 

[gmanpaint]

I figured the CPP needs to be "Looped" if I have one somewhere. I will Have to surf the net for a pin out diagram, but I doubt I will find it.

 

[rickybobby]

i can get one at work tomorrow and send it to you, but i need the info for the truck the pcm came out of.

 

[gmanpaint]

i can get one at work tomorrow and send it to you, but i need the info for the truck the pcm came out of.

That would be very nice of you. Thanks!

It came out of a 95 4wd manual Explorer.

 

[rickybobby]

i just wish mine was as easy to figure out.lol every time she sees me get a test light or dmm she acts just right.

 

[gmanpaint]

Ok here is what Is found off the Autozone site:
Pin 30 is the CPP. So I should be able to just trace it from the mess coming out of the back of the ECM and jump it, I hope.

 

[rickybobby]

Its hard to tell if you need power or ground, but it also looks like you could jump it to pin 46 to get the correct result.

 

[gmanpaint]

I really need a picture of the CPP so I can look again to try to identify it before I go splicing into the ECM harness. I would feel terrible if it was staring me in the face and I didn't know it.

Pin 30 says a jumper is used for an auto trans. Wouldnt that be looped already? I am more confused now...lol

 

[rickybobby]

did you use the auto harness?

 

[gmanpaint]

Used a manual trans harness from another 95 rig. But still have the auto engine harness.

 

[PopRichie77]

Auto computers typically work on the negative side but some also supply +5 volts. In the diagram pin 46 is supplying the plus voltage, as rickybobby said it is the correct place to jumper. It also states that it has a jumper for the auto trans. In that case it can be a permanent jumper.

 

[rickybobby]

then disregard that part, it is looped in the auto trans harness. autozone has a pic of the switch under the parts section. You can buy wire peircing aligator clips at radio shack to test jumper the wires, i do that sometimes when working with customer cars.

 

[gmanpaint]

What I found in AutoZone. Says it is a Clutch Pedal Ignition Lock Switch.

 

[rickybobby]

What I found in AutoZone. Says it is a Clutch Pedal Ignition Lock Switch.

i would start by looking for something like that on or near the clutch pedal, or a connector that would plug into it.

 

[rickybobby]

What I found in AutoZone. Says it is a Clutch Pedal Ignition Lock Switch.

I cross referenced the autozone p/n with napa, and they call it a clutch pedal position switch, and the pics are identical.

 

[gmanpaint]

I took some pics to show whats under the dash. I tore into it again and couldn't find either the CPP or a side by side 6 wire connector.