Head Bolt Torque Rate

[kgillaume]

I currently have a 93 Explorer 4.0L Pushrod engine in pieces, broken plug removal...

I do not have a repair manual, but the only thing I need to know is the foot pounds to torque the head bolts down to.

Anyone have this info?

4.0L V6, Pushrod

289CID?

Thanks

 

[kgillaume]

Also the foot pounds needed for the rocker arm bolts too, just remembered that minor detail...

 

[1IronMike]

Here is what my manual says;
""after you install the lower intake manifold and install the bolts and nuts for the manifold and head (s), tighten all fasteners finger tight. Then tighten the intake maniflold fasteners in sequence to 36 - 72 inch pounds.
Using new head bolts, torque them in sequence to 59 ft. lbs.
Then tighten the intake manifold fasteners in sequence to 6 - 11 ft. lbs.
Then re-tighten the head bolts in sequence and additional 80 to 85 degrees.
(90 degrees is 1/4 turn).
Then re-tighten the intake fasteners in sequence to 11 - 15 ft. lbs. then 15 - 18 ft. lbs.
Dip push rods in heavy oil and install.
Install rocker shaft and tighten to 46 - 52 ft. lbs. front to rear in several stages.

 

[Maniak]

Important Note...

The head bolts are stretch style.. once used, you are not supposed to use them again...

Also... Here is an online repair manual for when you need the info, but do't have the book..
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB..._us/0900823d/80/0b/ea/d3/0900823d800bead3.jsp

~Mark

 

[1IronMike]

Thanks Mark. Now I can refer to the link instead of typing so much.

 

[kgillaume]

Thanks for the specs!

I found the autozone online ref manual, unfortunately it is lacking the torque reqs for the rocker arm bolts among other details.

Anyone ever have a spark plug corrode? I was changing the plugs and one sheered right off like it was meant to be. Very little shiny metal where it sheered off... Just a hair left...

Also is an intake manifold gasket leak common? I noticed the gasket was very thin where it broke, resulting in a dead cylinder and lots of carbon in the engine. Opposite side was showing a similar problem developing.

And yes, this truck was aquired recently, lol...

 

[Maniak]

The intake manifold leak is sort of common. Its one of the common causes on pinging. If you are lucky, you can normally just re-torque the gasket down, but it sounds like its been loose for a while on your truck. Since you have the heads off, might as well clean off all the carbon on the heads and tops of the pistons.. I did that on our X when I had the heads off to have a valve seat fixed (I had a plug explode in the cylinder)..

I personally haven't had a plug corode (break) on our X.. I've read of a few people having problems on the site...

I always use anti-sieze on the plugs and change them at least once a year (more like 2 times a year when the truck was the DD).. Also, we don't have rust here in the desert...

~Mark

 

[Tony H]

Don't forget the RTV gasket stuff or you'll be peeing Coolant by the Temp Sensor and the drivers side rear. Ford should have put another bolt on the other side of the Water Jackets on these engines.

 

[kgillaume]

Was very liberal with the RTV sealant, been running for about a week now with no leakage issues.

A paper dog chasing a cat in h*ll had a better chance than I would have had by adding a few more turns on the intake mani seal, chunk was missing, metal and all...

As a result I had lots of carbon in the cylinder, cleaned it up real nice.

Lots of rust issues up here in WI, all the road salt they use is hard on cars.

Typically, I use high grade plugs and simply loosen and retighten the plugs every 3 months and use anit-sieze or at least a dab of motor oil. First plug change since I aquired the truck, no evidence of even oil on the plugs.

Had gaps in the area of .7+ on the old plugs, barely any electrode left.

Still not a bad deal for an X with 78K miles on it... 3 thousand bucks, no signs of major wear when we ripped it apart.