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Head Gasket change on '93 Ranger 4 liter 4wd automatic

Discussion in 'Stock 1991 - 1994 Explorers' started by sunrse777, October 18, 2009.

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    1. sunrse777

      sunrse777 New Member

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      I have the blown head gasket symptom.... bubbling into the coolant overflow tankk and overheating ...... plus rough idle.... no coolant in oil or oil in coolant thankfully!!!! I am pretty sure its the right side headgasket, so I am going to pull that head.... Any pointers on do's and don'ts on this procedure for this engine ?? Thanks in advance.... :rangertan:
       
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    3. Maniak

      Maniak Moderator-Stock 91-94 Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Leave the fuel rail connected to the lower intake. It makes life much easier..

      If you can, get the rubber valve cover gaskets intead of cork. Same with the lower intake gasket, get the metal/rubber one (I got my valve cover and lower intake gaskets from fastpartsnetwork.com).

      If you have never had your exhaust off the heads, start spraying them with penetrating oil now.

      Even if you find issues with the head gaskets, get the heads checked. It is pretty common for the 4.0 heads to crack and you don't want to figure it out after you have it all back together.

      Also, the head bolts are torque to yield with a torx head. That means go buy another set of bolts and make sure you have a good torx bit for you 1/2 drive ratchet and torque wrench.

      Thats what comes to mind right now...

      ~Mark
       
    4. sunrse777

      sunrse777 New Member

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      Thanks Maniak..... If anything else comes to mind, let me know......
       
    5. blueka

      blueka Elite Pickler Elite Explorer

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      This could be me in a few weeks if I get that 93.... do a compression test before you strip everything down....


      Si
       
    6. BlakeOfDoom

      BlakeOfDoom Member

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      Check your thermostat, sounds like it might not be operating correctly, try checking your waterpu,p also. Here is a trick you can try, the next time you are overheating, pull off the intake tube and see if their is any steam coming out. I had cracked heads and this was the only way to tell, I barely had enough coolant in the oil to show up on the dipstick.
       
    7. sunrse777

      sunrse777 New Member

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      Thanks BlakeofDoom ..... already changed the thermostat. Will check the watrpump next before resorting to pulling the heads. Actually, I will do a compression test before that..... Does anyone know on the 4 liter heads, where the typical area is that they are most prone to crack ??
       
    8. Maniak

      Maniak Moderator-Stock 91-94 Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Out of the 4 cracked heads I've had I have seen them cracked in different places (some had multiple cracks)

      Between the valves (had them pinned)
      Shoulder at the back of the head (raised round part on the top of the head, under the valve cover).
      Between water jackets.

      ~Mark
       
    9. sunrse777

      sunrse777 New Member

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      Compression test results before starting job .....

      Cylinder#1 = 125psi 2 = 125 3 = 135 4 = 0 !!! 5 = 150 6 = 165.....
      Tried #4 again after squirting in some oil ... still 0 .... probably bad valve ...
      Will be pulling heads soon .....
       
    10. sunrse777

      sunrse777 New Member

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      How to disconnect fuel lines from fuel rail??

      I'm taking everything off this 4.0 Liter to get to the heads. I'm down to the lower intake manifold and I am wondering how do I disconnect the two fuel lines ? When I start to turn the one in the front off, the hose wants to twist with the fitting. Is the fitting just stuck and will spin if I soak it with PB Blaster ?? Or do I even need to take these fittings off?? Can I raise the intake manifold far enoungh to be able to get the heads off and clean the gasket surfaces without removing them ?? Can anyone that has been thru this before give me some pointers ??? Thanks...
       
    11. Maniak

      Maniak Moderator-Stock 91-94 Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      The end of the fuel line (the part you put the wrench on) should spin on the line. it sounds like its corroded or just stuck.

      You will need to pull the lower intake off, getting the heads off and getting everything clean will be a real pain if you leave the intake in the way. You can leave the lower intake and fuel rail connected together. It will actually make things easier as you won't have to try to get all the injectors lines up and fuel rail reconnected if you don't take the fuel rail off in the first place.

      ~Mark
       
    12. sunrse777

      sunrse777 New Member

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      One head at a time ...... ??

      Thanks Maniak ...:thumbsup: that's what I figured,, the fitting is just corroded so that it won't spin... I'll soak it and try to free it up... I just wanted to make sure, first time I've had to dig down into this engine.....
      Based on the compression on the right bank (1,2,3 ) .. I am taking left side head off first.... depending what I find will determine if I take the right side off or not....... Would you just do both heads even with what I found for compression ( see post above ) .?? Thanks...
       
    13. Maniak

      Maniak Moderator-Stock 91-94 Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      I would pull both heads and get them tested/fixed even though you got good compression on 1-3. Its possible they are cracked, but not bad enough yet. Since you have to buy a gasket set anyway (and head bolt set) might as well get the other side checked/fixed ahead of time.

      BTW.. I am assuming 1,2,3 is on the right side (passenger side) and 4,5,6, is the drivers side. Many people get it backwards (I was one of them for a bunch of years)..

      The 0 pressure on #4 is odd.. even a cracked head will normally still give you some compression. Its got to be one heck of a crack/break to get it down to 0.

      ~Mark
       
    14. sunrse777

      sunrse777 New Member

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      Maniak- Yes,, 1-2-3 are the right (passenger side). I will pull both heads.. Have you purchased rebuilt heads or gaskets lately ? Just wondering which gaskets seem to work best,, Fel-Pro ? And if there is a good place online to buy reliably rebuilt heads..
      As far as the number 4 cylinder.... I think it's a pre-existing valve problem.. I will know once I get the head off... Thanks
       
    15. Maniak

      Maniak Moderator-Stock 91-94 Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      I used a felpro head gasket set, but then also bought a set of Ford rubber/metal valve cover gaskets and lower intake gasket. I didn't want the paper/cork stuff there..

      I got those parts (rubber/metal intake and rubber valve cover gaskets) from Torrie as fastpartsnetwork (an EF vendor).

      I ended up using a local machine shop to clean up and fix my heads as I tried getting a set of rebuilts from a place in Phx called Bills cylinder head exchange. But the heads from Bills sucked. The 1st set was cracked and excuse I got was that they had misplaced the test plugs so they were tested. Bill's cylinder head exchange will never get any business from me again.

      I've heard of people buying new heads from alabama cyl head, but I have no experience with them. I "think" those are new castings too.

      ~Mark
       
    16. sunrse777

      sunrse777 New Member

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      Gasket types..... Ford vs FelPro

      Maniak- I looked on the fastpartsnetwork site for the intake and valvecover gaskets, but only saw an engine overhaul gasket set for the '93 4.0L. Do they sell the intake and valvecover sets separate ? And did you use the Felpro head gaskets because you or others have had better success with those ?? Felpro has what they call PermaDryPlus vavlecover and intake gaskets .... ever heard of those ? :rangerred:
      Thanks.....
       
    17. Tbars4

      Tbars4 Offroad/Fitness Moderator Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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    18. Maniak

      Maniak Moderator-Stock 91-94 Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      I only went with felpro because it was what I could get locally. As for the individual gaskets from Torrie, I sent him an email through fastpartsnetwork (might have sent a pm, I can't remember) and told him what I was looking for.

      I then ordered through him..

      I've seen those other felpro (dry) gaskets recently when I was looking for some for the 460 motor but I didn't look into them much.

      ~Mark
       
    19. SysIntegr8tor

      SysIntegr8tor New Member

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      I got a great set of heads from a place in ca for 192 ea complete. They looked really good. In fact, they looked exactly like a set of factory heads. They said they were factory heads that they got from a place in china through a network called worldTrade or something where you place buy or sell bids on an international network.
      Dunno, but just blew a gasket and/or warped a head as I have a fouled #5 and bubbling coolant so when I get them off and inspected I'll let you know how they held up. Should have em off by 11/ 08 sunday pm
       
    20. SysIntegr8tor

      SysIntegr8tor New Member

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      what is "torque to yield"? Is this different than other typical torque -ing processes?
       
    21. Maniak

      Maniak Moderator-Stock 91-94 Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      When installing the head bolts, the last and final torque down you do isn't to a certain ft lbs. You actually turn the bolt 85 degrees. They do this because these bolts stretch, which is why your "supposed" to throw them away after using them once.

      ~Mark
       
    22. sunrse777

      sunrse777 New Member

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      Right, the last pass on the head bolts is the 80 - 85 degree turn, about a quarter of a turn on the bolt..... But the lower intake and the heads should be torqued on at the same time, in the proper sequence to get the correct crush on both the head gaskets and the lower intake gaskets.... This procedure is well documented in the Chilton Manual for these trucks .....
       
    23. SysIntegr8tor

      SysIntegr8tor New Member

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      I rebuilt this top end last year. I noticed when I torqued the head bolts that when they got to spec, they seemed to get a feel like when you are about to snap off a bolt you are tightening - the stretching feel followed by hardening and snappig if you continue to turn the bolt even a few more degrees. My hair stood on end and I thought that I might have really failed at the rebuild at that moment!
      Nowhere in the all data pro instructions OR the ..I think it was a Mitchell that I copied pages fro, in the public library reference section.
      As you can see, I am fresh off the punkin truk!
      Live and Learn or die trying!
      My thermostat stuck shut last week and it seems that the temp sending unit only allows the temp gauge to go to about halfway. Now I have water in my oil, oil in my water (although not very much in either)...
      Would you care to venture a guess as to the extent and nature of the situation? :)
       
    24. SysIntegr8tor

      SysIntegr8tor New Member

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      I forgot to add...Thank you Maniak! Without resources such as yourself, I would be committing the same faux pas in a few days when I rebuild.
      To what extent must I go to be certain that all the water is out of the oil galleries?
      I can't simply change the oil and expect the hydrolized clots to make their way through the engine by themselves can I ?
      Do I need to tear the engine completely down this time?
      I can't really afford to, but what modifications would you recommend while rebuilding the top end?
      I mean, I will make sure that I get a set of 95's? Best brand/type of gasket set? Last time I had a large number of gaskets left over, but I can't remember which ones they were.
      Thanks again
       
    25. jhclance

      jhclance Member

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      Change the oil using cheap oil and filter run it 50 miles and change it again using good oil and filter and your set ofcourse check it often to be sure no more show up, but you will most likely not see any.
       
    26. sunrse777

      sunrse777 New Member

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      SysInteg8tor -I agree. Wipe away what you can get at of course, but change the oil... run it for a short period
      ( 30 minutes) ... re-check the oil and coolant.. Hopefully you do not see any mixing evident... then run for 25 to 50 miles and even if you do not see anything mixing,,, change the oil... This is a cheap form of insurance....
      Likely cause of what you are seeing now, on these 4.0Ls, is a cracked head ... I had a blown head gasket.. did not see oil / coolant mixing, but did have bubbling into the coolant overflow... This same engine also had a burnt exhaust valve....
      As for gaskets, I am using a Fel-Pro set with the improved head gaskets (PT-2). Good luck.... I will not get to putting the heads on until next week.. Have to get a 1/2 inch drive T-55 Torx socket.... By the way,,, did you buy heads ? I found a place in Cali that has a great price on new heads...
       

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