and gain access to Reviews and Discussion of the 2016 and 2017 Ford Explorer Tech Tips, How to Articles, Off-Road Modifications and Events, Street Truck Mods and Events, and much more! Since 1996 our community has covered every aspect of the Ford Explorer, Ford Ranger and all vehicles based on this platform.

Register Today It's free! This box will disappear once registered!

Heater Core Replacement????

Discussion in 'General Explorations!!' started by jimeeh1, April 5, 2004.

  • Searches ExplorerForum.com
    1. jimeeh1

      jimeeh1 New Member

      Joined:
      April 4, 2004
      Messages:
      37
      Likes Received:
      0
      Trophy Points:
      0
      City, State:
      Pardeesville, Pa.
      Year and Model:
      1997 XLT
      Just looking for some direction. My wife brought my 97 5.0 XLT last night with the windows steamed up and an antifreeze leak from underneath the passenger side, can't exactly see where. Suspecting its probably the heater core but unsure how to get to it and replace. Can anyone help.
       
    2. Support EF


      Join the Elite Explorers for $20 a year

      Explorer Forum has probably saved you that much already, and will continue to save you money as you learn how to diagnose and fix problems yourself, and learn which modifications work without having to experiment on your own. Elite Explorer members see practically no ads, add your own profile photo, upload photo attachments directly to your posts and Media Gallery, create more private Conversations, and more. Join Today. Your support is greatly appreciated.



      to hide adverts.
    3. Glacier991

      Glacier991 EF Tranny Guru Moderator Emeritus

      Joined:
      February 8, 2003
      Messages:
      9,830
      Likes Received:
      4
      Trophy Points:
      38
      City, State:
      Sacramento, CA 95827
      Year and Model:
      1992 XLT
      Well, don't shoot the messenger but.... well, let me start by saying I have a 92. The heater core is in a little box under the glove box that opens with 2 screws. Changing a core is about a 20 minute job. Somewhere after 92, when I do not know, FORD changed things. I have the CD manuals for every year Explorer up to 02, but my 97 CD is corrupted somehow, so I looked at 96 and 98. Same bad news. Replacement starts out with how to remove the instrument panel. This job is now a B*TCH! I've done a couple insrument panel out heater core replacements on other FORD products... plan a day. (An 82 Cougar comes to mind - how could FORD FIX a bad design and then reintroduce it?)
       
    4. '96explorereddiebauer

      '96explorereddiebauer Well-Known Member

      Joined:
      June 11, 2000
      Messages:
      3,758
      Likes Received:
      0
      Trophy Points:
      0
      City, State:
      Clemmons, NC
      Year and Model:
      '06 Honda Accord EX-L
      Welcome to the boards, Jim!! You'll learn a whole lot of things about your Explorer.

      I have some bad news. Here's how to remove it:

      First thing you have to do is to remove the instrument panel. Yes...the whole panel and here's the instruction on how:

      Removal and Installation

      1. Disconnect battery ground cable (14301).

      2. Disconnect wiring connectors in engine compartment.

      3. Remove two bolts retaining hood latch control handle and cable (16916) and lower cable and two bolts attaching parking brake release.

      4. Remove upper series console, if equipped. Refer to procedure in Removal and Installation, «Upper Series Console» in this section.

      5. If Ranger, move transfer case control to far forward position.

      6. Remove instrument panel steering column cover (04459) by removing two (2) screws and pulling on cover to release grasshopper clips.

      7. Remove bolt to bracket at right of accelerator pedal.

      8. Remove instrument panel steering column reinforcement by removing six (6) screws.

      9. Remove TK yoke by removing two (2) nuts from cross vehicle beam.

      10. Open fuse panel door, and remove two (2) bolts attaching instrument panel to cowl (A pillar beam).

      11. On right side of instrument panel lower, remove one (1) bolt.

      12. Remove one (1) threadless fastener and two (2) pushpins attaching insulator to lower right-hand instrument panel .

      13. Lift edge of defroster grille, using a flat wooden dowel, then pull up on defroster grille to release clips and tension tabs. Remove defroster grille.

      14. Remove four (4) bolts at top of instrument panel.

      15. Disconnect all electrical connections at rear of instrument panel.

      16. Remove instrument panel.

      After doing that, then you'll have access to the heater core:
      Removal and Installation

      1. Allow the engine (6007) to cool. Following all safety precautions (refer to «Section 03-03») and using a thick cloth, turn radiator cap slowly to the first stop. Step back while pressure is released. When the pressure has been released, tighten the radiator cap on the radiator.

      2. Disconnect the heater water hoses (18472) from the heater core (18476) and plug the heater water hoses.

      3. In the passenger compartment, remove the instrument panel (04320). Refer to «Section 01-12».

      4. Remove heater air plenum chamber (18471). Refer to Removal and Installation, «Air Plenum Chamber and Duct» in this section.

      5. Remove heater core from heater air plenum chamber. For installation, follow removal procedures in reverse order.

      Good luck!!! :)
       
    5. B1942

      B1942 New Member

      Joined:
      January 6, 2004
      Messages:
      8
      Likes Received:
      0
      Trophy Points:
      0
      City, State:
      MoVal, CA
      Year and Model:
      '96 XLT
      Heater Core Replacement

      I am half-way through a heater core change on a '96 4.0. Did a Mustang a while back and thought it would be fairly easy, WRONG. I used the CD version of the service manual (EBay special) and my trusty Haynes. There is a lot left to the imagination on this task, neither reference gave "all" the info needed but both together almost gets you through it. Take your time and you can get it done. One point neither reference made clear, the screws at the top of the dash aren't the ones obvious in the pad. After you remove the defroster grill you will find 3 bolts, one over the glove box area and 2 over the instrument area. Good luck under the hood. I don't get on the board often and this is my first post so hope it works.
       
    6. Glacier991

      Glacier991 EF Tranny Guru Moderator Emeritus

      Joined:
      February 8, 2003
      Messages:
      9,830
      Likes Received:
      4
      Trophy Points:
      38
      City, State:
      Sacramento, CA 95827
      Year and Model:
      1992 XLT
      Like I said, this is a b*tch. Sorry.
       
    7. jimeeh1

      jimeeh1 New Member

      Joined:
      April 4, 2004
      Messages:
      37
      Likes Received:
      0
      Trophy Points:
      0
      City, State:
      Pardeesville, Pa.
      Year and Model:
      1997 XLT
      Thanks for the help Guys. I'm still debating whether to do it myself or get raped. 96EB, your post doesn't mention anything about the AC Unit removal. I bought a Haynes manual and it is part of the removal. Is there a way around this?
       
    8. '96explorereddiebauer

      '96explorereddiebauer Well-Known Member

      Joined:
      June 11, 2000
      Messages:
      3,758
      Likes Received:
      0
      Trophy Points:
      0
      City, State:
      Clemmons, NC
      Year and Model:
      '06 Honda Accord EX-L
      I don't know. That's what I've gotten from my Ford shop manual CD-ROM. I'm assuming you don't have to. But since you have the Haynes manual with you, you'll know by then if you need to remove the AC Unit, good insurance.
       
    9. theFinn

      theFinn New Member

      Joined:
      March 3, 2004
      Messages:
      9
      Likes Received:
      0
      Trophy Points:
      0
      City, State:
      Edmonton, AB
      Year and Model:
      1991 XL
      Anyone mind posting the shop manual instructions for doing this on a '91?

      I need to replace mine as it's making a constant trickling sound that's starting to get pretty annoying..
       
    10. Glacier991

      Glacier991 EF Tranny Guru Moderator Emeritus

      Joined:
      February 8, 2003
      Messages:
      9,830
      Likes Received:
      4
      Trophy Points:
      38
      City, State:
      Sacramento, CA 95827
      Year and Model:
      1992 XLT
      Ohhh this is *COLD*. I mean when they see how EASY the '91 is, they are gonna NOT be happy. Ok (assuming now your problem IS the heater core, and not discussing your diagnosis here) here is how you replace it.

      1. Open the radiator cap and release any pressure.

      2. Loosen and remove the two heater hoses from the core on the engine side of the firewall.

      3. Remove 4 (ok I thought i was 2) screws in the little box under the heater plenum under the glove box area of the dash, remove front half - held in place by those 4 screws.

      4. Heater core exposed. Remove old by pulling straight back into passenger compartment, insert new thru grommets in firewall. Have helper hold as you push hoses back on from engine side and tighten them. Make sure any gaskets come off the old and go on new before installation.

      5. Reinstall cover and 4 screws.

      VOILA!
       
    11. B1942

      B1942 New Member

      Joined:
      January 6, 2004
      Messages:
      8
      Likes Received:
      0
      Trophy Points:
      0
      City, State:
      MoVal, CA
      Year and Model:
      '96 XLT
      Sorry, it has to be removed. The 3 nuts holding the AC unit to the firewall have another set of bolts under them that are exposed after the unit is removed, these hold the plenum in place along with another nut approximatly in the center of the firewall, engine side. Remove the cruise control unit and windshield washer/coolant recovery tanks and that makes it easier. Actual heater core replacement takes about 5 minutes. CAUTION!!!! all parts under the dash, around the console and in the vicinity of the AC unit are apparently made of recycled razor blades. :) At least thats what my hands look like. Good luck if you choose to do it yourself. Taking it slow and easy was about 20 hours of labor throwing in lots of coffee breaks.
       

    Share This Page




    Click Here

    We Support Our Troops!