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Homemade shackles

Discussion in 'Offroad Fabrication - Bumpers, Sliders, Cages etc.' started by Minivek, December 19, 2006.

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    1. sn0border88

      sn0border88 Master Apprentice Elite Explorer

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      you could take the picture, but you couldnt measure the shackle or bolts to find out what length you need???
       
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    3. v8_dave

      v8_dave New Member

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      It does seem silly, but I wanted to know if going with 10, 11, 12" long shackle would be recommended with a stock setup.

      It seems easier for someone to say, "I used 2.5" bolts with my 3/8" wide plates but it did not catch the nylon completely so I recommend 3"..."
       
    4. Mud Bug 94

      Mud Bug 94 Well-Known Member

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      the springs are 2.5 wide...figure an extra 1/4 inch for bushings on eash side...(3 inch)and figure on 3/8 plate times two....3/4 so a 4 or a 4and 1/4 bolt with like 1 inch of thread should be good....the stock shackles are 6 inches bolt to bolt....if you want 2 inches of lift out of them they need to be 10 inches...with shackles your actual ride height is 50%of the differnce from stock that you choose...
       
    5. Minivek

      Minivek Active Member

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      5" long bolts :D
       
    6. steelo1

      steelo1 Active Member

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      Great, this is just the info I've been looking for, thanks heaps. Oh & I take it thats 10" bolt to bolt (just clarifying) :thumbsup: :D
      & yes I know its an old thread ok LOL
      [​IMG]
      so these ones wouldn't be a 2' lift?
       
      Last edited: March 1, 2009
    7. 03VATrac

      03VATrac New Member

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      Where did you get your materials?
       
    8. invalid665

      invalid665 New Member

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      Thanks for the info, looky what i made:D
       

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    9. bcboy4ca

      bcboy4ca Member

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      I used this thread to make my own shackles :). Like the OP I used 2 1/2" x 1/2" flat bar that I had cut into 10" lengths, drilled 9/16" holes 8 1/2" apart and used 5" long 9/16" grade 8 bolts. Total cost in CDN $35.00.

      I just did the install in my driveway with basic hand tools in 1.5 hours. The most invaluable tool I can recommend if you are going to do this is a bottle jack to place between the top of the leafs and the frame to push the leafs into position on the longer shackles.

      I will post pictures later today.
       
    10. fordxranger

      fordxranger Member

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      I quickly made an ms paint idea for a set of shackles I'd like to build for my sport. I'm making them stock length, I can't run extended shackles cause they'll hit my tow hitch I have on the rig. I'm mostly wanting to make these cause I have the material, I need something to do and I want some stronger shackles than the factory stamped ones. I was wondering if .25" is a good enough material thickness to use for a set of shackles? I will be running a center support and If I still have the sheet may cut some .125" plate to weld around the area where the bolt goes. the sketch might cut out any confusion as to what I have in my head:
      [​IMG]

      I think they will be plenty strong cause they will already be thicker than the factory ones. whats everyone else think?
       
    11. 4fords

      4fords New Member

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      If you use a center support, a pipe over the bolt would be a good idea to prevent distortion in the shackle. Will do this if I extend my shackles. Not lookoing for huge lift or articulation. Maybe an inch to give some rake to the truck. Already got f150 springs in the rear. Instead of extra plate, put tube lengthwise on the shackle for rigidity.
       
    12. 4fords

      4fords New Member

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      Center support pipe would only work with extreme length shackles though. Would recomend latteral support for all longer shackles.
       
    13. glfredrick

      glfredrick Well-Known Member

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      The .250 material will be plenty strong for shackles. A center bolt or cross bar is not needed. In fact, it will slightly hinder flex on off-road trucks, as it forces the twist to occur within the leaf spring instead of letting the shackles do the work.

      FYI, I've seen cars and trucks with leaf springs run without shackles at all when the areas have rusted out and the back of the springs poke through the trunk floor. Most of you guys are over-designing -- not a bad idea -- but it just doesn't take that much work to make a pair of shackles. Save your fabrication for something more important like rock sliders. :D
       
    14. zonianbrat

      zonianbrat Active Member

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      I just finished mine up yesterday and am putting the second coat of flat black on today. I used 2"X 1/2 flat bar since we had some laying around on the rack outside the shop. They are 10.25"long with the holes 8.25" center to center. Nothing too special since I am getting a set of 31's. For now I am just going to run the 31's with the small shackle lift and TT[​IMG] up front until I have more time/cash flow to go bigger

      [​IMG]
       
    15. tootall_54

      tootall_54 New Member

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      will this give the 2" lift
       
    16. DB_1

      DB_1 Elite Ranger Elite Explorer

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    17. soon2bsick

      soon2bsick Active Member

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      Wow so I figured I would check into this instead of buying the warrior shackles... I didn't want to pay $70 - $80 for shackles that would only give me 1.5" even if they were heavy duty. Called my local metal shop and got a 3/8x2"x4ft piece for 6 bucks!
       
    18. IZwack

      IZwack Moderator Emeritus

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      If lift height correlates to lift cost, then trophy trucks must be a danger to jet liners :).
       
    19. slaughterrt

      slaughterrt Active Member

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      Definitely subscribing to this thread. I am going to make some shackles for my 99 XLT this week at work. Also doing the TT. Should have pics eventually.
       
    20. glfredrick

      glfredrick Well-Known Member

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      Just realize that there is a point of diminishing returns when using JUST shackle lifts. After the size shackles shown here, you start to get a LOT of leverage and you also start tipping your pinion upward quite a bit. A couple inches of lift is no biggie, but more than that and you need to figure out a different lift system such as springing over the rear axle (cost to do that is minimal -- if you can weld, you could probably get it done for under $30 not counting the new shocks) which will give you about 5.5 inches of lift without some of the problems inherent in just boosting up the stock pieces.
       
    21. emordnys

      emordnys New Member

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      anyone willing to make and sell some 2-4 inch 1992 explorer shackles?
       
    22. steelo1

      steelo1 Active Member

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      Make a copy from the pictures/drawings earlier & take them to an Engineers or Metal Working/Welding shop, thats all I did, they are only mild steel. :D
       
    23. fishnhunt18

      fishnhunt18 Member

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    24. Brian1

      Brian1 Elite Explorer

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      I will add mine to this thread. I didnt need as much lift as the warriors since I have an add-a-leaf but it has sagged over the years. Made my shackles for a 1" lift so they are about 1" shorter than the warriors.

      Cut out of 3/8" plate and then a square tube welded between them

      [​IMG]

      [​IMG]
       
    25. steelo1

      steelo1 Active Member

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      Looking good :thumbsup::australia
       
    26. lounge lizard

      lounge lizard Active Member

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      I didn't even see this till now. I made mine out of 1/4" plate. and I just did a copy of the stock shackles, but made them longer. exact length I never measured. but I can check it easy enough.
      [​IMG]

      [​IMG]

      [​IMG]

      they are longer than stock. although my stock ones are rusty and the paint is falling off. they are in good shape.

      just wanted an upgrade I guess. and I had the metal to do it.

      excellent thread!
       

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