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How to: 1st Gen Gas Tank Fuel Pump Access Panel

Discussion in 'Body Work & Detailing' started by Burns, March 17, 2007.

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    1. ChriszTruck

      ChriszTruck Member

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      I think I'm going to give this a shot when I get the pump. I seriously don't feel like dropping a tank in this f'ing heat, and I see a lot of rusty bolts under there that look like they'd snap. Great thread!
       
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    3. ChriszTruck

      ChriszTruck Member

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      I cut the floor, and I had some issues with the wrong pump, but the X is running once again. :) I will be posting a tech write-up on cutting the floor open to replace the fuel pump within a week. I have many photos, and I'm basically going to give a step-by-step account for future use. Thanks to all who have posted such useful information on fuel pump replacement.

      This was the most "interesting" part of the process.... ;)

      [​IMG]
       
    4. hate city

      hate city New Member

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      thanks for the pics, really helped a lot. mine's a '96 but same procedure.
       
    5. TJTrucker

      TJTrucker New Member

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      Yup, I'm going to cheasle me a hole in that floor tomorrow, this marks the second time i've had to drop that darn tank in less than 6 months. My wife's little 92 Ford Escort wagon has a nice little removeable panel over her gas tank. Already had to change her fuel pump, took about 15 minutes and that includes taking the bottom of the back seat out. Plush two little clips the seat bottom pops right out, four screws and walla there's the top of her gas tank. Now Ford thought of this on the Escorts, why didn't they do it with the Explorer's? Hey there's a lot more money involved with an Explorer compared to an Escort.

      Nice post guys, hey has anyone had to cut off those cuplers for the hoses on the fuel tanks. I've got one that's leaking on the high side. Of course the dealer has some mickey mouse kit to repair kit they want $40 for, but I was thinking of cutting the coupler off the hose and then slit the braided line right over the hose fitting on the tank and double clamp it with two of those little stainless steel hose clamps.
      Any thought good, bad or otherwise?
       
    6. malito58

      malito58 New Member

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      i thank you so much for this idea being that i dont have a great deal of $ to do this
       
    7. sksemke

      sksemke New Member

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      96 4 door

      WIll this procedure work with a 96 xlt 4 door? Also any special tools needed to remove the back seat? Thanks!!!!!!
       
    8. malito58

      malito58 New Member

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      gas tank acces

      dear sksemke it works for your 96 and yes you have to remove the small folding seat,as for tools i went the hard way but it worked(i used a chisel and a big hammer) just have in mind to cut near the seat bolt anker(like a half inchor so closer than the diagram posted.other than that you shoud be done very quick and remember to test the fix before you close everything down.it saves you $ and time good luck.
      sinc,marcial(malito58)
       
    9. sksemke

      sksemke New Member

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      Done!!

      Removed the seat and cut the access panel using a dremel with a cut-off wheel, took about 15mins to cut the hatch. The only problem I had was one of the wires was conected to the top of the tank, I have no idea what it was for but in my effort to try and remove the plug I broke the unit it plugs into off the tank. Like I said I have no idea what it is for but I just plugged the plug into the broken piece and tried to start it and it fired right up!! I would appreciate it if someone could tell me what its for, I thought maybe it might be for the fuel gage but I dont think so. One more note, the bolts holding the seat in were extremely tight, I suggest soaking with WD40 over night. Thanks for all the great posts!
       
    10. malito58

      malito58 New Member

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      wires

      congrats sksemke you got it done ,as far as for the wires well the 4wires that goes to the conector are for the pump and gas level the wires coming out from the top are for the evap system,make sure you got them in the right place and mke them water tight(some silicone or grease around them will work besides that you are set,iam glad i was of help,keep the xlt goin!
      sinc,malit58(marcial)
       
    11. gsmaclean

      gsmaclean Active Member

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      Yes, my 1982 Datsun 200SX had a small panel in the trunk with screws around the outside. You removed the screws, pulled the panel up, and you had access to the fuel sender on the top of the tank.
       
    12. gsmaclean

      gsmaclean Active Member

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      Read my post above - I agree with you, which is why I used an air chisel. It cut through the metal in seconds, and no sparks.
       
    13. gsmaclean

      gsmaclean Active Member

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      The couplers were seized on mine when I opened them up. I ended up cutting through the tubes that connected them to the sender, then jamming a drill into the end and drilling out the tubes from the couplers. I then ripped out the small metal clips inside the couplers with some needlenose pliers, and replaced them with new clips I got at NAPA - they were a couple dollars.
       
    14. BrooklynBay

      BrooklynBay Moderator & long time member. Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      There is an access panel in the front to get to the top of the transmission. I don't know why Ford couldn't put the same type of access panel in the rear over the sending unit? Some foreign vehicles come with access panels in this area.
       
    15. scrivyscriv

      scrivyscriv Elite Explorer

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      Will someone post a more specifically worded description or a wide shot photo of where this sweet access door is in context of the rest of the vehicle's interior? I read through the whole thread and have a good idea of where, and can obviously get under the vehicle and see exactly where to cut, but for any future explorer owners it'd be a great reference.
       
    16. Noved1987

      Noved1987 Active Member

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      is it the same spot on 2 and a 4 door?
       
    17. gsmaclean

      gsmaclean Active Member

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      No, it's different in the 2-door.
       
    18. justme1003

      justme1003 New Member

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      fuel pump

      Thanks for the great write up. I removed the rear seat and i notice there is a heave red cable there as well and a lighter gage blue one. the red one looks like a ground. But what is the blue one for as it is disconnected and looks ike it was connected to something at one time. i have a 1997 ford explore limited edition with a v8. Also my rear wiper does not work either. So just wonder what that blue cable is for before i start to cut a hole in the floor to possible change a fuel pump that might not need it.

      Help me please :)
       
    19. dickster@rogers.

      dickster@rogers. New Member

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      Questions?

      Hey you, boys, was reading your site on "trap door" that you cut for access to the fuel sender. Very informative! Was wondering,[ before I too start cutting for the same reason} what did you test & where [electrically] to decide it was the sender? I assumed because I do not hear the "pump activate" [2-3 seconds] when I turn on the key & it wont start, that it must be "not working". My 1st. 94 exl had this issue & I replaced the sender to correct it & after reading the threads in here, I see it is quite a wide spread & common problem..I wish not to drop the tank. Thanks in advance....Dickster
       
    20. johnny23toronto

      johnny23toronto New Member

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      gas tank access panel for 99 2-door sport

      Here is my pic for how I cut open, with grinder and tonnes of sparks, the access door on my 99 sport. The hardest part was removing the fuel line.
      [​IMG]
      I gave up on my PLASTIC connector kit after about 3 hours, and used a tiny tiny tiny screwdriver to push the leg barbs back inside the fuel connector.

      I recommend the metal connector tool, because the plastic one only worked once for me (when I removed my fuel filter) and then is probably now just slightly too "squished" to work properly.

      There was a murky dark clouds in my fuel tank :(

      I was really worried about a fire, but after doing this, the top of the gas tank appeared airtight and bone dry. As long as you have no fuel leaks, I would do it this way again in a heartbeat.

      Now my GS340 fuel pump is in! See pic I took just before I made the swap. I bought the pump from James :) at Henson Perf.
      [​IMG]
       
    21. gsmaclean

      gsmaclean Active Member

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      Honestly people, I REALLY don't recommend you use a grinder (or welder, or anything else that involves sparks or flames) when cutting above your fuel tank. One accidental nick on the fuel line, and you could end up with an uncontrollable fire that could destroy your truck, and possibly your house (if it's in the garage).

      I used an air chisel to do mine, and it cut it right open like using a butter knife, with no sparks or fear of fire.
       
    22. JMan689

      JMan689 Well-Known Member

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      Genius, i'll use a regular chisel since i don't have air tools, but since my tank won't come down for whatever reason this will really save me. :thumbsup:
       
    23. olemech

      olemech New Member

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      fuel pump install

      great tip on replacing fuel pump.
       
    24. kimball

      kimball New Member

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      I think i am going to make a hatch to get to my fuel pump. Fuse good, relay good,
      no pressure. Never changed the fuel filter or pump 250K. Anybody know anything else
      I need to check before I undertake this task?
       
    25. BrooklynBay

      BrooklynBay Moderator & long time member. Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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    26. kimball

      kimball New Member

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      1997 Awd 5.0 I just cut an access panel to get to my pump. The 97 explorer i have is
      a little difrent than the photos. The roud ring on the top of the tank needs a much largr access hole than posted. I plan on enlarging the cut and moving on with the project.
      What else should i do??
       

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