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How to: 1st Gen Gas Tank Fuel Pump Access Panel

Discussion in 'Body Work & Detailing' started by Burns, March 17, 2007.

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    1. J_C

      J_C Well-Known Member

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      There's no such thing as it won't work on any vehicle with top mounted pump assembly and no structural subframe area in the way.

      However, changing the pump does not seem to be the whole solution in your case, if your tank is putting rust through the fuel system you need to pull it and coat it or replace it so there is no need to cut a hole to access the pump with the tank needing pulled anyway... for inspection, even if there is not any rust coming from it you need to know either way.
       
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    3. Marty4309

      Marty4309 New Member

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      First post here. But I read a lot here. Just wanted to Thank everyone who contributed to this thread. It was a real time saver.

      To the person with the 4 door 98 XLT. Yes it will work. Just fine I have the same model. Just cut the the floor panel out about 2 inches over more to the left. Once you have everything unhooked and unbolted the pump will slide right out. With no problem.And the new one will slide in just as easy.

      Again Thanks to everyone. Great thread.:thumbsup:
       
    4. Xplorer82

      Xplorer82 Active Member

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      great thread..

      my truck died the other week and after $120 tow and some testing i realized i needed a fuel pump.. ordered one from rockauto, pulled up this thread and began..

      i did run into the issues other 98 owners were having, that there was a thick frame/support piece in the way, but the air chisel took care of that, just notched it..

      got the old pump out (which didnt look to old), inspected the inside of the tank (damn clean might i add), installed new pump and began to replace the fuel filter since its a new pump..

      got down and started, come to find out, I probably DIDNT need a fuel pump.... the damn inlet line to the fuel filter was pinched so tight it was restricting the flow to a measly 10psi....


      so tip to others, if you are having fuel delivery issues, check the lines just before the quick release fittings too. it might just save you $150... o well, got a back up pump now.
       
    5. wiggle wagon

      wiggle wagon New Member

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      I just want to thank everyone, especially the original poster of this thread for this. Just did this on my '96 Centaurus Explorer and it worked out great.
      I managed to spill some gas from the old pump while doing it but overall it wasn't bad. Definitely better than dropping the tank.
      [​IMG]
       
    6. Jerren

      Jerren New Member

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      Re:

      that was a good example
       
    7. wiggle wagon

      wiggle wagon New Member

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      Thanks.
      To be honest, replacing the pump didn't fix it. It wasn't getting fuel because it had an electric fault - not getting power to the pump. I fixed that the Mickey Moose method. As a test, after putting in the new pump, I ran a wire from the battery and spliced it into the pump wiring. It worked so after not having the use of the car for a few days and needing it for work the next day I added a toggle switch in the dash (to turn it on or off) and its still going with that. It was supposed to be temporary. lol
      Someday I'll find a wire under the dash that works with the key on and delete the toggle switch. :exp:
       
    8. sethpdx

      sethpdx Active Member

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      It is a 96 4 door xlt
       
    9. J_C

      J_C Well-Known Member

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      Seems like a well hidden toggle switch would be an anti-theft measure. Why not just trace the original wire and find the fault?
       
    10. J_C

      J_C Well-Known Member

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      They don't need to be lined up because you aren't using a tape measure to measure from the front bumper to make the cut.

      Inside the floor pan bends up to create the tank recess. The cut is in the same place relative to that hump in the floor pan on both 2 dr and 4 dr. If they came out with a new body style with 6 doors, it would still be in the same place relative to the floor pan hump because that's the only reason the floor pan hump is there, to make room for the gas tank and give it more clearance from the ground. Sorry if I did not explain this well last time.
       
    11. wiggle wagon

      wiggle wagon New Member

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      To be honest, wiring is not my forte. I've learned to live with the toggle switch instead. I blew several days trying to find that fault back in February.

      I didn't plan on having the Explorer much past winter but its summer and I haven't replaced it. Its reliable, comfortable enough to get me through another winter, I'm sure. The Centaurus conversion is weird though. :fart:
       
    12. cgbier

      cgbier Active Member

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      Is a tin snipped meant for 18 gauge gonna do the trick in this endeavor?
       
    13. J_C

      J_C Well-Known Member

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      If you were stuck on a deserted island it's worth a try but otherwise that's a hard way to try to do it.
       
    14. cgbier

      cgbier Active Member

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      Replace the deserted with remote, and you got my place of living :D

      Just drilled a bunch of holes and connected them with the snipper. Despite my body being steeled from years of pushing pencils and bending paper clips, it worked out pretty well. My boy was a bit disappointed today as he didn't learn any new swear words.

      I only don't get the primary hose off that sucker. The tool bites, but the hose doesn't budge. Gave it a good dose of PB Blaster and called it quits for the night. The first beer went "psht" twice...

      Thank you again for this great forum. Without you guys I might still lie under the truck and curse the rusted tank straps.
       
    15. wiggle wagon

      wiggle wagon New Member

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      The fuel line tool is a bit awkward. Sometimes I can remove every line no problem, other times I can't get it to work at all.

      There was no way I was going to drop the tank, outside during winter in Canada. This is a far better solution.

      Good luck with yours. Cheers.
       
    16. Stevester 500e

      Stevester 500e New Member

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      Interesting that Ford didn't think of providing us with a removable trap door to the fuel pump?
       
    17. J_C

      J_C Well-Known Member

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      Not enough customer demand for it. The typical person buying a new ~ $25K vehicle back then wasn't thinking about how hard the fuel pump would be to change years later. They still aren't today.
       
    18. bluestream1

      bluestream1 Active Member

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      Its not really what the consumer wants or doesn't want. Its about whether the manufactures cares about the tech who has to change this pump down the road. Most other companies do, but Ford does not. They would rather save $5.00 per vehicle and increase their profit, and let the tech/owner deal with the headaches. Its very short sighted in my opinion

      I don't think I will buy another Domestic vehicle for this reason.
       
    19. J_C

      J_C Well-Known Member

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      ^ Every vehicle has its faults. Trying to lump it into domestic vs import would simply be ignoring faults of any import vehicles.

      No manufacturer expects consumer oriented vehicle owners to change their own fuel pump. Besides, it's really not a big deal to unbolt or cut straps to do it given a pump, lift, and jack... all things any decent shop has.
       
    20. Meriden

      Meriden New Member

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      I'm finishing this project today and there are a handful of posts suggesting that this cannot be done on certain Gen II Explorers due to the pump being too far back. The photo below is an example of the problem:

      [​IMG]

      The tank on my '96 XLT 4 door is sloped at the front, putting the pump farther back and under the body sub-frame. I thought about cutting that sub-frame and decided against it since the cut would be between where the sub-frame mounts to the frame rail and the set belt anchor. I may still use the hole to remove the pump once I've lowered the tank, saving me the trouble of removing all the hoses and pulling the tank from under the truck.

      I suggest that anyone planning this on a Gen II cut a small hole in line with the back bolt on the center seat belt anchor and check the location of the pump before they get rowdy with the snips.

      m
       
    21. Abbondanza

      Abbondanza Active Member

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      you don't need to drop the tank. I have a 2nd gen and look at my pictures earlier in this thread (bottom of page 5)..I got it out with the cut... not pretty but better than dropping the tank (or so I hear) looks like you started your cut too far forward and didn't go back far enough..you won't totally clear the back of the pump , but you can angle the old pump out and new one in.http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=182160&page=5
       
    22. Meriden

      Meriden New Member

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      I'll post another two photos that are more inclusive:

      [​IMG]

      [​IMG]

      I cut a pretty big hole to start with, but after some thought decided not to cut through the body sub-frame. I also spent some time looking at the photo on the forum and at my installation. It appears that most of the photos before mine show the pump aligned with the front bold on the seat belt anchor while mine is much closer to the back bolt. Somebody with the right cutting tool could remove enough of the body sub-frame to get it out but I'm not sure it's less work than the way I did it.

      Anyway, I managed to change it out. Dropping the tank down a few inches to get the pump out was so darned easy. It turned out to be three bolts and a floor jack. And now to patch the hole...
       
    23. Abbondanza

      Abbondanza Active Member

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      yes you needed to get more of the subframe to wiggle it out without dropping the tank..glad you got it done though...congrats!
       
    24. Meriden

      Meriden New Member

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      Final follow-up. The pump is installed, the Ex running, and the fuel gauge doesn't work. I'll piddle with that problem later, but in the meantime I'll use the trip odometer to keep up with miles between fill ups. I made a couple of aluminum panels to cover the holes.

      And now on to the driver's door.
       
      Last edited: January 22, 2015
    25. atxjax

      atxjax Member

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      Newbie here. Thanks for allowing me on the forum.


      I have a 97 Mountaineer with the V8. Looking to replace the pump and want to cut a door. Am I going to run into the same issue as the 2nd Gen Explorers where the pump is too far back and have to cut through subframe?
       
    26. Meriden

      Meriden New Member

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      Look at post 96 and then post 146. In post 96 the pump is aligned with the forward bolt on the seat belt anchor. In 146 it is closer to the back bolt. If I were doing another one I would drill one or two holes to see how the pump aligns with the bolts on the seat belt anchor before starting. To Abbondanza's point, it will work either way, you just have to cut more if the pump is mounted toward the back. I found having the port useful even though I had to drop the tank because I didn't have to remove the hoses, etc.
       

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