HOW TO: 2001 Sport Cluster Swap for 1998 Explorer | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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HOW TO: 2001 Sport Cluster Swap for 1998 Explorer

Heres a dumb question.

If its so easy to do this swap, it should be just as easy to do it the other way around??

Im looking to sell my 91 explorer EB, and pick up a 01 sport or something. I just really hate the white gauge faces, and would love the black ones instead.
 



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Oh wow! That is different! LOL But you're correct...you should be able to go the other way. I've put the 01 in a 95 and a 99 now. Both took different methods due to the electronics change between the years...and as I mentioned...don't screw around with the speedometer. Just use the one that's in the car and install it in the new cluster you're going to use. No electronics problem and the mileage is correct. (That's a HUGE thing by the way) The only thing that will be noticeable is the color of the odometer...and you would have to be pretty darn picky to notice that. Just install the needle using a GPS, a scanner, someone along side you, etc.
 






Even if you swap out the old odometer, you may still need a disclaimer as it has to be removed from the back of the speedometer.

No...you don't. You are using the factory speedo and odometer. No mileage was changed. You are good to go with no legal issues at all.
 






No...you don't. You are using the factory speedo and odometer. No mileage was changed. You are good to go with no legal issues at all.

It depends on the state. For example:

Missouri law requires that a dealer or an individual selling a used car must reveal to a potential buyer the total number of miles registered on the odometer and any alteration done to the odometer. If the odometer has been changed, state law requires notice with details of the change posted on the inside left door frame.

Other states are similar.
 






1998Exploder....that is why I recommended changing over to your original speedometer. No changes were made to mileage, no odometer was changed. It's the original unit. You do NOT need any type of disclaimer. They are good to go.
 






Agreed, no alteration was done to the odometer, it's the same odometer unchanged.

... any alteration done to the odometer. If the odometer has been changed....
 






would this be a direct swap to a 97 control trac limited 4x4. Or would I have to fool around with wiring?
 






I believe you may have to swap a few pins in the connector to get all your indicator lights to light up appropriately. You know, "door ajar" lights up instead of 'check engine". Those are just arbitrary examples by the way and aren't necessarily correct. A little common sense and a wiring diagram should get you by. I also seem to remember switching one or two of the gauges over too besides the speedo. That's been a while. Just don't button everything up and go test drive it. You will see what...if anything...needs to be swapped. It's a very worthwhile job.
 






Are those wiring diagrams available anywhere?
 






I know I'm late to the party, but what an excellent thread. I didn't go througn all the bother of replacing the actual components, I just removed the white gauge overlays and mounted them on my original cluster. Upside is that you don't have to deal with matching mileage, etc. The only downside is that the the numbers remain white on black, instead of black on white which looks cool in it's own right.

This is a shot of the mod on my old '00 Sport. I did the same thing for my '99 Eddie.

whitefaced_cluster_Sport_.jpg


One of my fave mods. :thumbsup:
 






That is an excellent idea celly...but I think there's a major flaw in that isn't there? I believe some of the indicator lights are in different locations between the two overlays. You would still need to change the pins in the connector to get the proper light to operate. That won't be true on all years, but some it is.
 






That is an excellent idea celly...but I think there's a major flaw in that isn't there? I believe some of the indicator lights are in different locations between the two overlays. You would still need to change the pins in the connector to get the proper light to operate. That won't be true on all years, but some it is.

No issue with mine for the most part. I actually had two white faced clusters to play with. One was off a 2WD and was from the US (i.e. mph and miles). I also scored a 4WD, Canadian style (km and km/h). I used the 4WD rightmost overlay on my Sport (which was 4WD) and used the 2WD rightmost overlay on my EB (which is AWD, hence doesn't have the 4WD lo and hi indicators). I used the same overlays on my Sport and EB for the center and left sections of my Sport/EB clusters.

All other indicators lined up perfectly. My Sport (SOHC) was a '00 and my EB (V8) is a '99. Not sure which year the Sport/Sport Trac clusters came of of. I don't know with certainty what year clusters have what on them. I can only speak for '99 and '00. Given that virtually nothing changed in '01, it would probably work on a '01 4 door as well.
 






The lights in my cluster behind the RPM gauge and near the 140-200km mark are out. How do I swap them out and what lights must I use? Is there any way to use LED's? I want to put white ones in :) I was looking for something called "Indiglo gauges", but can't seem to find one for a 2003 Ford Explorer Sport 2-DR 4WD (mine).
 






The lights in my cluster behind the RPM gauge and near the 140-200km mark are out. How do I swap them out and what lights must I use? Is there any way to use LED's? I want to put white ones in :) I was looking for something called "Indiglo gauges", but can't seem to find one for a 2003 Ford Explorer Sport 2-DR 4WD (mine).

Just for reference for those who are looking, I found out that the bulbs behind the dash are 194LL's. Furthermore, if you can find a 194 inverted LED, then it should work (many on eBay).
 






when just swapping the seperate panels ..... my temp gauge shoots past HOT. Would this be resolved or should it be resolved by doing a complete cluster swap?

Are the three gauge pieces matched up with the entire housing and circuit boards they came with?

I also noticed on my original temp gauge ... on the back connectors... there is a resistor soldered between two of the connector posts. The new one does not.
 






when just swapping the seperate panels ..... my temp gauge shoots past HOT. Would this be resolved or should it be resolved by doing a complete cluster swap?

Are the three gauge pieces matched up with the entire housing and circuit boards they came with?

I also noticed on my original temp gauge ... on the back connectors... there is a resistor soldered between two of the connector posts. The new one does not.



OK ... I swapped the new cluster with the old .... the temp gauge is working , however ... it is reading just before H and check gage light is always on ..... checking temp with scan tool shows between 85-90C

The gauge is moving as temp falls and climbs, but stays near H at all times....when it cools, it only falls between C and H...never to C

if I swap out with the old temp gauge ... it reads way below C and check gage light is still on...... hair pulling time

I have also changed coolant sender, sensor and stat with new.
 






I think that you have just an issue with the gauge or circuit wiring in the cluster. Your engine and cooling system are fine. The engine light will come on based on what the gauge reads, even if it's wrong. I don't know what could be wrong with the gauge etc.
 






I do believe it is a wiring issue ... due to when I turn on 4x4 or turn off O/D or set speed control .. none of the lights on dash light up.

Check engine light also not coming on when forcing it too.

Trying to locate wiring diagram for the three plugs in back of cluster with no success. The connections are labelled/numbered on back of circuit board on cluster .... just need to match the wires correctly
 






You are having the same problem I had when I did this to my 95. I sure wish I could remember how I fixed it. I "think" I used the original gauge in the new cluster, and I may have used the original printed circuit and repinned the connectors as necessary. I just can't remember for sure. All I can tell you, is you are having the exact problem I had with my 95, and I was able to fix it between the two housings, gauges, printed circuits, etc. Hang in there...you'll get it. It's a compatibility issue and you just need to hit the right combination. Your engine is fine.
 



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Yes, just be patient and persistent. I'm about to dissect a digital gauge to see about separating the LED numeral outputs from the gauge. I'd like to add an LED display next to the four small OEM gauges, for accurate information. Are there any electricians who would volunteer for some modification work? Regards,
 






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