How to: 2nd Gen Blend Door Quick Fix

[SkeeterDon]

Great stuff right there. The actuactor should work in your hand. The new one did when I plugged it in with the key on it went to the default position. I had to run the vehicle in order to move the actuator.

If you have the 3 screws they are a pain, but you can do it with a 1/4 inch small socket and the small rachet. When you install the actuator, just leave the 3rd screw out, I did and it works great.

When and if you have to buy a replacement actuator, it comes with a snap on attachement. This is for thos models that snap in to the top of the plenum. Just remove the attachment and all will line up. This is a motorcraft actuator though. I elected to purchase it since it was local and only about $10 more than any other national chaning and it was motorcraft.

 

[EvilleDave]

Ok thanks a bunch. Couple questions and more clarification though.

If I get the wife to move the ac switch and I just put my fingers on the control could I possibly feel for movement in the actuator without taking it apart? I'd like to test this without tearing it apart before I get the parts. If this is what I need I'll get both the new door and the actuator and get it be done with it. Or is it not a problem to take the actuator off and leave it that way til I get all the parts?

Just for more clarification, this condition also affects the rear ac. The rear also gets warm when I change to the normal AC setting.

AS I stated in the keyless entry thread, this site has already helped a lot and I have donated to the site. I appreciate the help.

Edit for added photos. Looks like it just pulls up but I'll take the screws out. I found the front two but I can't get my fat fingers in there to feel the back one. I can feel where I think is should be.

 

[SkeeterDon]

The white part is the actuator and and you do not have the screws. How nice, the black housing is screwed or attached to to the plenum. Just take a putty knife are a big screwdriver and pry it up. Not the housing but pry up the actuator. Disconnect power from actuator before removal. Once removed hook it back up and test.

Go here and you can see a video of what you have in regards to the actuator and how to remove it.

http://heatertreater.net/Exp_Rngr Video.html

 

[Pontisteve]

Well, you will end up taking it apart either way. If you are commanding a/c and getting heat, then you have a blend problem. Whether that's the blend door itself or the actuator that moves the door is the question.

I believe that both of these parts are poorly designed, and either one or both could fail. In my case, just like yours sounds, I believe the actuator went bad. But pulling the actuator out, I noticed the hinge is cracked. If that isn't a problem now, it certainly will be shortly.

You might be able to feel the actuator running, but that isn't enough. The motor could be running, but the gears that actually move the door could be shot. You need to pull it out, and run it in hand to see if the actuator works. And you need to get a mirror and inspect that hinge.

I assume you've already read about replacing the door by cutting the A/C box open.

 

[EvilleDave]

Just to clarify, my problem is my AC works fine but when I turn it to normal AC I get heat. All other functions as far as where the air blows out work fine. Defrost, mix, floor,etc.

Here is what I found.
My actuator motor was just on the pressure pins, no screws so I lucked out. I just unplugged the wires at the front then just popped the motor off with a screw driver.

I hooked the plug back up then started the car turning the Thermostat control knob and my motor worked fine.

After watching the video on replacing the door at http://heatertreater.net/Exp_Rngr Video.html I decided to cut the hole as they did in the video so I can replace the door later. It took me longer to get my dremel out than it did to cut the hole. I just put a 1/8 inch drill bit in the dremel and it only took about a minute to cut the hole. When this hole is cut you have great access to the door and can swing it either way.

I turned the AC on Max AC and I can see why it works on Max AC and not on regular AC. When you have it on MAX there is a suction on the door that pulls it closed, while I had it on Max I could not even move the door(actuator motor is off). I turn off the air and pulled the door toward the passenger side had held it shut. The AC now works fine. I just duct taped the door in that position then put tape over the hole I cut for access. I'll replace that with foil tape when I do the door replacement in a few weeks.

For those with no heat or little are the door is most likely stuck in the middle somewhere. I can feel that the top of the "socket" where the motor shaft fits is broken on mine.

I'll post more when I get my kit from Heater Treater. I'm going with the metal door because it just makes sense to me. This is normally a $1000 +or- at the shop and you can do it at home for $130 and never have to think about it again.

 

[Pontisteve]

I liked their theory about why the door hinges break. The motor tries to move the door further than the door can physically move, putting a bind on the hinge. The hinge can take it at first, but over time apparently that stress gets to it. After all, it is just plastic.

I'm looking for a more elegant solution to the box cutting than what I've seen so far. I'm thinking that maybe if I use a hot sharp exacto knife, I could cut into the box on an angle. This way when I put the cutout piece back in, it would actually sort of seal. It would still need some sort of adhesive though. I'm thinking black silicone might be a simple and elegant solution, especially if I have such a nice thin cut. Another thought might be to put a large sheet of black foam over the whole bottom when finished.

So what exactly caused this suction when in MAX A/C mode? Obviously, the blend motor and door is supposed to be what causes it to close, so there must be a coincidental cause of the suction.

 

[EvilleDave]

I'm sure you could get a piece of plastic and cut out a cover for the cut he has on the video(the one I did). You could put some gasket sealant on it so it seals better also. I doubt anyone would ever see it any way. But if you planned ahead you could leave so area left on the corners so you could put some screws in through a new cover. I think if you would paint the foil tape he supplies black it would go unnoticed.

There is air flow behind the door when it is on the heat position( towards the drivers side) it will create a vacuum and it is very hard to open. As I said I tried to swing it to the other side with the fan running full on Max and I couldn't open it. Partly because you can't get hold of it very good. With the fan off, I was able to move it easily. There isn't enough suction to pull the door closed if it's not already closed but if it's already against that side it will hold it shut.

 

[Pontisteve]

That last sentence hardly makes sense... if I have a/c on and getting heat, but then I turn max a/c on and get good cold air, then it must be sucking that door shut in practice. Perhaps that's exactly what happens when the box is still sealed shut (not cut open)?

Or perhaps its just my theory about the heater control valve being shut off that is making it cold. FYI, it's a fact that the heater control valve does get turned off when in max a/c, but does not get turned off when in regular a/c.

 

[EvilleDave]

My brain is hurting, without a map of the duct work I would not know where to start. I would guess when the heater control is in the highest cool position it blocks off the heater core and pulls air from somewhere else?

On Max Air the door remains in the closed position, the temp knob is the only thing that controls the blend door, the vent closes under the dash for recirculation and the flow is cut off from the heater making everything colder.

 

[Pontisteve]

Also, on max a/c, the system probably recirculates the inside air vs sucking air from the outside. This might be why.

 

[SkeeterDon]

Yes, on recirculate it uses the air inside and not the air outside.

I would be curious of the actuator has any gear teeth broke off. Either max AC or Heat there is no problem, but between the two, regular AC there is.

You can take apart the actuator and determine there are gears missing. It just snaps apart, at least mine did. It is easy to put back together as well.

 

[EvilleDave]

Before I put the kit back in I'll put the motor back on the broken door. I have a feeling the top is broken so bad that it still allows the door to flop back and forth. I'm thinking when it is not on MAX air there is enough airflow in there to push the door in another position causing heat.

I think I can also get my camera in a position I can take photos into the hole. I'll post pics when my parts get here.

 

[SkeeterDon]

You may be right in your analysis of the blend door. I am guessing you have a probe camera? I just used one of those telescoping mirrors from an autoparts store to inspect my blend door.

 

[Pontisteve]

I'd like to see pictures of the hole you cut in the box. The shape of that hole is somewhat critical, as the new door will have to fit thru it. The metal door kit comes with a template I believe, but if just replacing the OEM door with a new one, I wouldn't know exactly where to cut. Take good pictures!

 

[EvilleDave]

I'm retired with lots of time. I also have access to web hosting and know my way around photoshop very well. I'll do a page on it and post up what I have so far and update it when I get the parts. Also with the idea of making a removable cover for it. I'll put it together quick and post a link tomorrow when I get some pics.

I don't really want to keep cluttering this thread, this is about the quick fix and my posts are not about a quick fix.

 

[SkeeterDon]

may not be about a quick fix, but the research is still as important.

When I had this same issue, I read ALL the threads, did my analysis and then started troubleshooting.

That a way I would at least be familiar with something if a ran across it.

 

[Pontisteve]

I agree. The quick fix is in the first page or two. Anybody reading after that is interested in the details.

 

[EvilleDave]

I'm old and get confused easily. I find it easier when it's in one place. Feel free to link photos or videos here. I'm a web developer, what do you expect? LOL

Here's a link to what I have up so far, I'm waiting on the door kit now.

Blend Door Tech Article

 

[jturkey69]

Just so I have this right, as I think either the pics are backwards...or I am.. when I pull the actuator motor off, I could feel half of the door pin still there, and holding motor in hand, i switched back and forth from cool to hot, and from what I can make out..with the door towards the passenger side, its heat, and toward the driver side is a/c? at least thats the way it felt when I tested to see if we now have heat, which we didnt before

edit..I was backwards..looking at top of plenum, after removing motor, I moved the door CLOCKWISE!
I put the motor back in place, after adjusting it to full hot, and unplugged it...hopefully that can hold the blend door in place until I can R&R it at a later date.

has anyone found out if the door will still move? Whereas I need to maybe think about putting a small "set screw " type of wedge to keep blend door from turning? It will be about a week or more until I have enough time with the truck, and time without being distracted by all the kids..lol

 

[jodogg]

So did Ford fix the problem?

So the real problem seems to be that after years of the actuator trying to force the blend door to travel further than it physically can, was there a point (particular year) where they (Ford) figured this out and decided to make the actuator travel within the blend door limits???

So if I buy a new actuator could I reasonably expect the door not to be stressed beyond what it should be???

My actuator is operating fine still. The gears inside are all intact. However my blend door is shot and I’m picking a new one up tomorrow.

So after it is all assembled back together Am I supposed to not set the cool earlier than 9:00 and the heat beyond 3:00? People forget, don't pay attention, or just plain don't care and I don’t think I can expect others to remember something like that long term.