How to: 3rd Gen - Dash Removal and Heater Core Change

[Duranged84]

Work in progress, Will be editing as time and resources allow.

As requested, Dash removal and heater core change without disconnecting AC lines. My first writeup so be gentle. If anyone has anything to add, feel free. I didn't take pics during the process, since it was dark and below freezing for most of the work. I will edit as I remember details or anything I missed. This is probably not in order according to the factory manual but will try to make it as understandable and simple as I can. I did grab a few pics of the old dash sitting in place in the parts truck so try to give some pointers.

Disclaimer- This might suck, and questions are welcome if you don't understand something.
Disclaimerer.... The job kinda sucks also, but Ive done worse jobs than our Explorers/Mountaineers.
Disclaimerer...er - Air bags can be dangerous, obviously. If your not comfortable with working with air bags, or pulling your entire dash out, or have a short attention span, this job may require a helper (who has taken their meds). Im including steps for the heater core with everything from the start. If your not doing the heater core, then it doesn't need to be drained or disconnected, unless your possibly doing the evaporator, and even then, I would suggest doing the heater core while your in there.

On to the suck!!!

If your doing this for a heater core, its probably by probable law, freezing outside. Start under the hood.
Disconnect both battery cables. Some people only do one, but I do both and tuck them away on the sides where they cant flop or slowly lean back over and make contact. (actually as an afterthought, If you have power seat(s), move them to mid position where you can get to your bolts before removing battery cable)
Next, drain enough antifreeze into a suitable container to remove your heater hoses(if your lucky and still have enough in the system to matter). While your at it, check the overall condition of the hoses, the heater bypass valve that likes to leak, etc. Got the antifreeze down low enough? Great, while your at it, check your thermostat housing for leaks and crustiness.
Now, to make it a little more visible, take your air intake tube off, 2 clamps, MAF sensor plug, and a small slip in vacuum line on the front/side. place it somewhere safe where it wont get stepped on or something spilled on it, rained on, etc. Behind that, towards the firewall, sticking up right in the way on two fragile plastic nipples, is your EGR pressure sensor, carefully unplug it, and pull it off the rubber hoses that connect it to the thin metal pipes coming from your exhaust manifold. Set it with your air intake tube.
More fun!!! find your handy squeeze clamp pliers your happen to have everytime you get the pleasure of doing anything with hoses on newer vehicles, or a good medium to large pair of adjustable pliers, and probably some large long handled, angle headed pliers, and a bucket of choice words. Maybe some spells for the engineers that decided to put these connections all the way back and over behind the engine...
Now that wasn't too bad was it? Hoses stuck? Probably. Take your pliers and gently squeeze the hose where the clamps were and carefully wiggle it. Should pop free and slide off fairly easy now. YAY!!! Next-
Lower your hood but don't latch it, Pull your wiper arms up like your changing the blades, at the base, there is a little lever that pulls out, pull it and the arm should lift fairly easily off the wiper transmission gear. Got those out of the way? carefully pry up the cowling panel, it snaps in, in several places, its probably a little fragile so patience and not a lot of force should free it. If your not replacing your (probably broke or fell off) fresh air door, now is a good time to block the HVAC fresh air intake. (No heat and broken fresh air door plus highway below freezing sucks) Theres a write up on how to change/fix fresh air doors, I will try to link to those threads after the write up is finished. What I did, until I can do the cabin filter mod and not freezing weather, is just blocked the intake scoop. On the passenger cowl, under the black panel you just removed, is a small oval plastic/rubbery cover that's kinda glued/clipped down. Carefully work around it with a scraper or pocket knife to pry it up with out breaking it in half.... glad I have a parts truck to practice on.... Under than on the firewall you'll see the scoop. Kinda hard to get in there to it with average sized hands, but doable. I took shop rags and started filling the scoop and up packing it in there best I could. It works for me. No more drafts inside If you have more patience, smaller hands, above freezing temps, etc, you could probably use duct tape or something and cover the hole.

OK OK OK Enough of this crap!!! Get to the dash!!!!
You will need, various extensions, quarter inch ratchet and sockets, maybe 3/8 drive for the main bolts but I used both. Needle nose pliers usefull, flat head and Phillips head screwdriver, some star bits or wrenches, TIME, and a helper at least for lifting the dash out. It can be done alone, but suggest help. You'll have to forgive me as some sizes I cant remember on some of the smaller crap, But I THINK, all I needed was a 7mm, a 7.5mm, 8mm, 10mm, and a 13mm. The seats are 15mm.

Raise your hood back up, and on the driver side to your right of the wiper motor you'll see a lonely bolt down in there (pic to be inserted) If memory hasn't failed, its a 13mm, Just like the other main dash bolts. Pull that one and set your hood back down, unlatched. You are now done under the hood for a while. Going through your back doors, under the front seats, you will see the plugs for the seats, power seats or not, one is for the seatbelt/air bag stuff, Should be at least 2 plugs under the seats, with or without power seats. Double check the harness coming out of the carpet you don't wanna snag a wire when you go to pick the seat up out of your truck. By now your air bag system should be fully discharged so no worries. remove the four 15mm bolts from each front seat, then set the seats somewhere out of your way. The console actually comes out in several pieces, (Im sure a lot of people know that if they've done or searched how to do the blend door actuator) take the rubber mat out of the front junk holder(if you still have the mat) and remove the single screw under there. Open the console lid, and carefully pry up where the front section clips in. NOT TOO FAST, your power outlet should be plugged in still, Unplug it and set the piece out of the way. Unplug the rear power outlet wire that's right there also. In the bottom of your console pocket, (under the lid) is four more screws in the bottom, and two small Phillips screws near the top in the sides. There is also a screw on each side of the bottom, on the outside by the carpet, You may have covers over them, look carefully. These should be 8mm. This section is also kind of clipped in to the base/floor vent thing I think. You will need to pop it straight back. Now on the floor vent housing, there are four more small screws (memory) that need to be removed, as well as two more on the front top that bolt to the bottom front of the dash. On the front of each console side piece are push in plugs that you should be able to just pop out. Check for more screws securing the floor vent housing, I will look at and link to the Blend motor thread for clarity. The power plug harness needs to be freed from the floor vent housing, its part of your dash harness. Under all of that, there is a ground wire bolted down, and a wire holder bolted down, also 8mm. One more plug that runs to the SRS module under the carpet flaps where the console "bucket" was. You can trace it back and unplug it now, or come back to it after we pull the carpet back. (location and specific plug pic coming).

Open front passenger door, and pop off the sill plate, just snaps in, pull the front section of weather stripping up at least to right above the dash panel, you can lay these over the front of your doors to keep them out of the way. The passenger kick panel will pop off revealing 3 ground wires bolted to the body, remove those and carefully unclip the fuel reset harness plug from the switch. (pic coming, not correct as I had to plug in old dash to pop rear hatch glass actuator and just threw ground wires back on one bolt, but you'll get the idea). Go ahead and pull the driver sill plate and do the same with the weatherstripping for that door, you'll need a star bit/wrench for the hood latch handle, then you should be able to pop off the driver kick panel. Now you can fold the carpet back out of the way. Lets finish up the passenger side and come back. On the passenger side under the dash on the transmission tunnel, there is a metal dash bracket, with two 10mm nuts, and two 10mm bolts, remove those and bracket. Open the glove box, and squeeze the tabs on both sides to swing the glove box all the way down. There is a vacuum connector and electrical plug to disconnect, and the antenna wire, (pics coming). Swing glove box back up, push tabs and close the lid. Theres one large electrical bulkhead connector with a 10mm bolt in the middle of it above the fuel reset switch, (pic coming). Now, carefully pry off the radio/HVAC/Center vent plate. Unplug the HVAC control head wiring and vacuum plugs. (unplug 4x4 and or message center buttons if equipped). Remove and unplug radio, just 2 bolts under radio if I remember factory radio mounting locations correctly. ( thinking about it, you may be able to leave radio and hvac controls and plate in place, but I removed it for access, ease of hand holds, etc. Almost forgot, Passenger a pillar grab handle, two bolts behind pop off covers, 8mm, then pop off a-pillar trim. Up on top of the dash, carefully pry up/unclip the black defroster vent panel, the security light/ ambient light sensor plugs in the center. Almost directly in front of the passenger, there is one 13mm main dash bolt, then in the very center, kinda hard to see, is another one ( may have been a 10mm). Don't swing your ratchet too hard and hit the glass. Almost done on this side, pop off the dash end cap to reveal the last two main dash bolts on this side. You can loosen them now and leave one partially in so the dash stays stable until your ready to actually pull it out. There is a large alignment pin that goes into the body between the two bolts, you don't have to do anything with it.

To the drivers side! You need to remove the knee plate under the column, 2 small screws on the bottom then clips in at the top. Remove the 2 screws holding the parking brake release and swing it back out of the way. Remove the other dash to floor bracket in the center, look up to the right of the column at the very bottom, the green electrical plug(think it was the power pedals) if equipped and unplug it, tuck it back away from the dash. Unplug the brake light switch on top of the brake pedal. Unplug the 2 grey connectors from the fuse box, then unbolt the bulkhead connector from the fuse box, again 10mm, as well as the large bulkhead connector behind the fuse box towards the firewall, also 10mm. Next, make sure your key is out of the switch and the front wheels and steering wheel are straight. Remove the steering column coupling bolt at the u-joint. ( pic coming) Push the U-joint section down, off of the steering column shaft. Should slide off easily if there isn't pressure on the wheel, should have some resistance in down force though. NOW---- Carefully turn your wheel to one side or the other, so the wheel will lock and you don't damage your clock spring. Should only take a 1/4 turn to lock. Look up at the bottom of the steering column cover, there are 2 Phillips screws holding the halves together. (some say three, my third was inside the housing) pop the lower cover off, work it around your tilt lever. You should now be done in the floor board for the moment. Sit up and let the blood flow return to normal.

Next we'll remove the instrument cluster, May also not be necessary, (I used the original Mounty gauges, and you may need it out of the way to access the shifter cable) I will try to find and post the instrument cluster thread, but going off of memory right now. There are two screws in the top of the trim above the cluster, on the left of the column, there is one more screw going up into the upper column cover, You should now be able to pop the gauge cluster trim off and work it off of the column, and from under the dash curve at the top. I was able to unclip the column cover and boot from the cluster trim and remove it separately, Will try to clarify this section a little more later. You'll need to unplug the pedal adjustment switch on the right if you have them, then the head light switch, and there was one more plug that didn't go to anything that was clipped into the trim panel (think it was a yellow connector) You should now be able to wiggle and work the panel out. There should now be 2 more screws on the bottom of the instrument cluster itself, and a plug on the bottom on each side of it. ( unclip the shift indicator assembly from the cluster and pull it straight down.) Behind where the headlight switch goes, is a round grey electrical connector, pop off the outside end cap if you haven't already, unplug that connector and pull the outside end out away and over the top of the dashboard. Also the driver a-pillar trim if you haven't already.

IMPORTANT STEP, set your parking brake if you haven't already, block the wheels, etc. Secure the truck from being able to roll. You are now going to disconnect the shifter cable from the column/shifter nub. It just pops on a ball socket, behind it a couple inches is a small plastic clip that holds the cable to the column so the inner cable works right. Carefully push the two nubs and slide the clip to the right to free it. YOU NEED THIS CLIP so be gentle. There is one more little clip behind the dash that you'll need to undo when you start actually moving the dash, its not real important but will hang you up. Go ahead and loosen the two main support bolts on the drivers side, leaving one in a few threads to support the dash until your helper decides to come out.

So now that your help has arrived, whoever will be on the drivers side, will need some pliers to squeeze the tabs on that second shifter cable clip. You will see it when you get the dash a few inches out, kinda right off the back in the area you unclipped the other one. It sticks up through a metal bracket and has two plastic pieces that pop through the hole and stick up on top. Just squeeze them together and work it through till it releases from the dash. Ready? Finish taking the last two support bolts out on each side and set everything in the floor or give to another helper if your so lucky. The dash assembly will need to come straight back until the big guide pins are out of the body, then up, away from the HVAC box. This is where you need work that last clip out while balancing the dash assembly. Once its freed, guide the shifter cable out of the dash, it will hang up in various places otherwise. I took both dashes out through the drivers side door, carefully setting it down so the helper could get in and help guide it out. Once it was over half way out I was able to get a hold on the top dash mount area and the steering wheel and carry it off out of the way. Not too heavy even with air bags still attached. I did swap the steering wheel bag, to keep the Mercury emblem, which was simple with two 8mm bolts behind the little plastic covers on each side of the wheel.

I will reserve the next post for the HVAC box/Heater core information.

 

[Duranged84]

Reserved for Heater core instructions

So, Now that your too far in to turn back, left with nothing but a box on an empty firewall and some pedals, Lets get to the HVAC box. I removed the first box completely as the ac was long gone, as well as engine, and wanted to figure out how to get at the heater core without having to take the ac apart. I will explain how to remove the box the right way, and how to swap the heater core without removing the box/disconnecting ac lines. May be too shade tree or redneck for some, but it worked. I would like to add though, that only one piece of the box was modified, and I feel that it will not do any harm even in the event of another bad heater core. Now is also the perfect time to change your blend motor or even pop it open and check the condition of the gears.

To remove the box from the truck --- I don't know how accessible the bolts under the hood are, as this one I had already pulled the engine out, Probably more suck, but doable. Theres 5 studs sticking through the firewall with nuts on them, (memory again, will check pic and post pics as well) Hopefully if your taking the box out, you've already had the ac evacuated, if theres even anything in it. You'll need to disconnect the 2 AC lines under the hood at the firewall, I have several disconnect tools, and found the big plastic ones to work the best for these. I think I used the blue and the black. I will check tomorrow for sure, and grab a pic of the tools used for anyone that doesn't know what Im talking about. (pic to be inserted) they were a bit of a butt to get disconnected but just keep wiggling the tool and push the hoses together and tool into the fitting and wiggle the whole mess till it gives it up. Mine didn't fight too bad, but again, the engine was out and I had plenty of room. Once those are off, and the 5 retaining nuts, you should be able to go inside the truck and gently pull the box off of the firewall. Have some rags, or towels ready as you probably will lose some antifreeze in the passenger floorboard if the box leans much. Side note* you should still have your carpet folded back. The bottom center vent elbow that goes the the floor vent under the console will probably be stuck to the floor, both of mine were. You will need to unhook some more vacuum lines that come over to the right side of the box, they run underneath to the firewall, One goes to your heat control valve on the heater hoses, the other I don't remember off the top of my head. Just unplug it from the HVAC box and tuck it up by the firewall somewhere for the moment. Now with the box removed, You can also fix that pesky fresh air door. Thread here somewhere, I will try to link to it also. Once the box is out of the truck, grab something to finish draining the heater core in to, and you'll probably get some oil from the evaporator as well. I did not take the evaporator out of my old box yet, but may for this write up. Should be pretty easy to figure out once you've gotten this far. The heater core, is a little tricky, and is stuck, or possibly glued to the hvac box. You will need to removed the rubber grommet thing from the end that sticks through the firewall, work it off the lines and save it. Next, the metal bracket on top of the box, that bolts to the main box and to the fresh air intake area needs to come off. I think there was 3 screws in it. Theres a small cover that goes over the heater core lines on the right side of the hvac main box, from top to bottom, thinking there was three or four screws in it, lastly, the bottom cover that actually covers the heater core itself. There are screws around the bottom of the box, and one on each corner facing the firewall if it was in the truck still. Grab a flathead or two and carefully pry the heater core down, it sits in a rubber seal thing that comes out with it. Work the core out of its home while working the lines away from the box, should pretty much fall out at this point. Again, I will tear back into the old box for the evaporator and add that to this probably tomorrow.

*****Changing the heater core, with box in truck and without disconnecting the AC lines ***** I do not guarantee this method, not responsible for damages, loss of Freon, etc. AT YOUR OWN RISK. That being said, mine went easy and my helper is kind of a bull in a china closet.
I started by removing the metal brace on top of the hvac box that goes from the main housing to the fresh air door. Move any other vacuum lines, etc on the right side of the main box. Then the heater core line cover, cut a slit in the center of the grommet where the lines go through the firewall, (theres a nub on the box to keep the grommet from coming through to the inside) Will try to point it out in pic to be posted. This will allow the lines to come through with some working of the grommet when you go to remove the core. Remove the two lower side vent pieces that go to the floor board area and the side of the console. I think it was 2 screws each side. Carefully lift up on the box and pull the center vent elbow off the box, remember it may be stuck to the floor. Those out of the way? Sweet. Remove the screws are the perimeter of the bottom cover. Remember there is one bolt on the back of the box facing the firewall on each side. Theres enough room to get in there with a small wrench or tiny crescent wrench. Very doable. Will grab a pic of my mini crescent too, Little thing has saved me more than I can even remember. Have had it over 20 years. Back on track, heres where it gets interesting. EXTRA TIP! I didn't do it, but may make it a little easier, may make it worse for the AC lines, use your own judgement and decisions. You may want to try loosening but not removing the 5 nuts on the engine side of the firewall for the box to allow for more wiggle room. It may or may not make the next step easier, it may allow too much flex and break your AC line, you've been advised and warned. If anybody does it, please post your results. I chose not to. Have your helper get a hold on the box and carefully lift up, I think mine gave about a half inch, which was enough to kinda jerk the heater core cover out from underneath. No noteable damage done to the already bad core. This was also below freezing and did not hear any cracking of the box or anything. Not saying you wont break your box, but these are my personal results. Now, grab your flathead or two and pry the core down out of the box, it'll come down from the drivers side first and kind of pivot to the passenger and rear some. Wiggle the lines out of the firewall/grommet and your out.

Going back in, (pictures to be posted) theres a piece that sticks down that goes into the heater core bottom cover that will hang you up getting the cover back on. The core goes back in pretty easy itself, shouldn't be an issue getting it back in and up where it goes. The cover though will hang on this ledge sticking down. I grabbed some pliers after looking things over on the old box, and broke about a one inch section off of this ledge on the drivers side. Will try to point out in pictures where Im talking about and how much. The piece you'll be modifying is part of the main box. Once that's done, Have your helper hold up on the main box again while you slide the cover back underneath. I had to go in more on the drivers side I think and then slide it over into position, before hitting the ledge we just cut. A small piece will still hang up. I used a long flat head to kinda help guide it under the ledge, while giving a swift medium bump to the front of the cover sticking out towards you. (Real professional I know, but hey, did you lose your R134 or seal on your ac lines?) It'll pop back behind that ledge, at which point your helper can release the box and get out of your way, cause now your over half way done and happier. Position the cover back up where it goes, Hey it don't look right. That's ok, it didn't look exactly right before it came out either. At least neither of mine did. Hold it up where it goes and get some screws back in that thing. Put the line cover back on, hook the vacuum lines back up and anything else you moved, the metal brace that goes on top, Tighten the firewall nuts if you loosened them, put the little side vent things back on and the center floor vent elbow.

Sit down and feel the burn from all the work you just did. Relax a minute, take a break, whatever you need to refresh yourself. Don't get in a big hurry going back together because you are excited or satisfied at how much money you just saved. Also, take pics so they can be added to this thread, or maybe you want to do your own writeup now.

Hopefully everybody can follow this in reverse to go back together, I know its already 4 miles long so I don't think we need a reassembly step by step. I will be adding and editing both posts as I remember anything that might have got left out, get more pics together/uploaded etc, just please be patient, I will get it sorted out and finished up. Hope this helps and saves people money, headaches, and stress. Its really not that hard, but time consuming. I really don't know a time estimate, because I did a complete interior swap while doing this, in the freezing cold, mostly by myself. If anybody follows this or has done it, feel free to add tips, correct any mistakes, tell how long it took you. I can say it took, probably around 12 hours, in the cold, taking warm up breaks, to strip both interiors and put one back together, Headliner to carpet, seatbelt to seatbelt, dash to hatch covers.

One more side note. I bought the Mountaineer with a completely broken off passenger step(factory plastic). Well apparently the rear heater lines got busted as well under the step mounts.... So I took the other single line from the parts truck and replaced the one that t's off to the rear line from the firewall. Cut a section of line, bypassed the T hose that runs along the side of the engine and hooked just the front heater core up. Works very well. I plan to pull the lines from the parts truck when the ice and snow is gone and go ahead and hook it all back up right, but this keeps passengers warm with it being in the single digits this last week. I'll grab some pics of my bypass job also and post if anyone is interested.

 

[Number4]

I'll need this to pull a dash at the wrecker. Need to get some of the hvac to replace mine. Only advice I'd give, which you can still do, is separate each step with a bullet point. This way they stand out. Good job otherwise, any pics added would be great as well, insert them by editing the original post though. If I take any pics, I'll send them to you.

 

[Duranged84]

Ya, I know it's a pretty long mess, I do want to organize it better and will be inserting pics in the original posts. I just wanted to get it all wrote out and something started. I don't like leaving things unfinished or a mess so I have to fix it lol. Keep watching for updates to the original posts. Good deal on pics, credit will go to you on them and anybody else that wants to add some.

 

[yglide123]

Good write-up! I'm going to be doing this relatively soon as I would rather save the $1200 or so I was quoted for the job. Not excited about it, but tired of losing coolant when using the heater! Would love to see some of the pictures you had mentioned though... Especially of the particularly tough areas. Regardless, I think I can tackle this job after reading your post - so thanks, and I'll post updates on how it goes....

One question though... A lot of YouTube videos on the second gen ex and other cars mention that you can just pull the dash out slightly and access the heater core, is that not the case with the 3rd gen? Sounded like there was some alignment pin that you had to pull the dash straight for quite awhile first.... So I'm guessing no.

 

[Curtis]

This page may also help in dash removal - it about replacing the Recirc door
http://www.denlorstools.com/autoblog/2008/08/2003-ford-explorer-ac-not-cold-enough/

 

[Duranged84]

Will try to get some pictures up in a minute, haven't been around here in a while. Unfortunately, the heater core in our trucks is dead center behind the dash, in the bottom of the box, very close to the floor, plus your supposed to disconnect the ac and take the hvac box out as a unit.... I left the evaporator and worked around it. Carefully. I hold no responsibility if yours is damaged in the process if you try my method, but I will say it can be done. Take your time, look things over when you get in there, its really going to come down to your patience and comfort level. I would say, the whole process sounds a lot harder than it is. Let me see if I can throw some pictures up. The link to the fresh air door is helpful as well. Look over that one too. Also, on the alignment pins, they aren't very long, but the main reason for pulling the dash away farther, is for clearance around the hvac box.

Edits below, sorry again for the mess....

I dont have pictures showing removal of radio, gauges, console, etc. Those should be easy enough to find in searches. More commonly removed items, and have seen several picture threads up showing those. IF you still have problems just post back and I'll try to walk you through those.

Dash bolt under cowling, drivers side.

Console at dash/floor. The circled areas show where the bracket bolts/nuts will be, bottom nuts will be under the carpet. The arrowed plug just pops out of the bracket.

Next, after you squeeze tabs and drop glovebox door down, look to your left inside, disconnect the two connectors circled.

Directly in front of you while still inside the glovebox hole, the radio antenna wire, should be clipped to the white clip, but mines not... Unplug and the make sure the wire is free from the dash in the direction the arrow shows. *After looking through and checking my work, this may not be exactly correct, The wire going the direction of the arrow should be out of the way, you'll want to make sure the end of the wire heading to the radio is free and will come out with the dash, so make sure it doesnt get hung up somewhere on the hvac box, etc.* 99% of the rest of the wiring will come out attached to the dash, along with steering column, etc. Some of my stuff was different as my truck and my donor truck had some different options and I added some from the donor. Your results may vary.

Next close the globebox, nothing left to do in here, leave air bag and wire alone, and do not mess with your glovebox light.... it will break off.... Go underneath the dash while your still on this side, unbolt and disconnect the large wire harness circled, arrowed is the body side of the antenna wire pulled out of the way.

Lastly on your right while still on this side, unplug the fuel pump reset switch, and there should be three bolts holding grounds in the bottom circle, but this pic was the after where i needed access to electrical and just made it work. sorry bout that. General idea shown.

Drivers side, after youve pulled your gauge cluster, without breaking your gear indicator cable, You'll need to pop the shifter cable end off, the push the two little teets on the white plastic clip holding the cable up in position, then slide the white clip to the right. The higher up red dot, is to indicate, on the back side, hard to get to the is another little black push clip thing holding the cable on the back side. I didnt undo mine until i was actually pulling the dash away from the firewall. Look it over real good, you may be able to get at it before that point.

At this point, you should have both end caps popped off the dash, on the drivers side still there is one plug on the end that will run up your a-pillar to the headliner, kind of a buttocks to undo, but it'll come off.

Next, straighten your wheels, or close to it where you can see the head of the bolt shown below, pull your key out and turn the wheel to lock it so the air bag wires arent damaged. If I remember right, the green plug shown is for the power adjustable pedals, if you have them, unplug that. Look up your brake pedal and unplug the connectors there as well. Try to make sure your steering wheel locks in a way that it doesnt have pressure pulling it one way or the other, that way when you remove the steering shaft bolt, it'll slide off easier and should go back on easy as well.

At left side underneath, undo the bolt and connectors for the two large wire connectors, and the parking brake sensor wire ( I dont remember if it does or doesnt have to come unplugged but better safe.) The other grey connectors on the fuse box, I dont remember if I had to undo them or not, see where the wires run. Then to your right, again at the console/floor you'll have another bracket like was pictured for the passenger side.

Next picture is under the console, and under the carpet flap. You will need to disconnect the air bag module shown, D is the driver side, F arrow towards front of truck, B pointing towards a ground wire thats bolted down farther forward. Easy to see with console off and everything out of the way. Pull that connectors harness forward and stick it through the dash opening or somethin to keep it from getting hung up anywhere.

Top right dash bolt, under defrost cover, Next will be center dash bolt where your lightsensor/ security light is, You'll be able to see it through the radio hole as well.

Next two pictures show your dash end bolts, and guide pins arrowed, there will be 2 bolts on each side. Left side showing the pain in the a$$ plug from earlier.

Next pic is for fun, and for reference.

The following pics are the HVAC box removed from the parts truck. The first one is where your heater core lives. Arrow pointing to the plastic lip that needs to be slightly modified if not disconnecting your ac and removing the box. Modified as in cut or break off about an inch or so of the end being pointed to. Again, Im sure I wrote in the guide in the first post about how this was done, so if your trying this, slow and careful.

Drivers side of hvac box, showing blend motor mounting point and shaft

Passenger side, showing route of the heater core lines.

Firewall side of box, mounting studs arrowed.

I'll have to go through pics and see if I have any more related. That should give you a good idea what your looking at and maybe reference for other things people may search for later on. Hope it helps clear up the book in the first post. Let me know if you have any more questions and I'll do my best.

Tried to edit picture sizes, hope they all turn out ok and not too large, etc. Think Im starting to get the hang of this write up stuff. I may still try to redo the whole thing later and make it easier for people to follow. Plan to eventually get a premium status so I can embed the pics permanently.


I keep editing as I remember things, so check back. Your gauge cluster and shift indicator may not have to come out, I pulled mine because my donor was an explorer and my truck is a Mountaineer, Kept the mountaineer gauges and steering wheel air bag, along with ignition lock. I will study pics and try to remember if there are any other reasons to pull the cluster or not.

You will need to pull the column shroud and the bezel around the gauge cluster to get to the shift cable. When you remove the front seats, make sure to check for any and all wiring plugs on both seats, regaurdless of options, my passenger seats were manual but still had plugs for air bag sensor, and seatbelt. No seat airbag, but from what I understand, it senses weight in the seat to determine if that air bag needs deployed in a crash, and probably partly for the dual stage function. Don't quote me on that but thats what I've gotten from research and theory.

I will also mention, probably in my first post but worth reminding, If your not taking the box out, check all around the bottom cover, the back 2 bolts are a pain to get to but can be done. I have a small adjustable wrench, probably 3 inches long that came in handy. A 1/4 inch socket and ratchet set will be a good idea, as well as an assortment of tiny wrenches. One of these days I need to start documenting all the tools and sizes I use on harder jobs like this.

 

[steelman83]

Great wright up! I have one problem however. .. after I got it all back together my alarm goes off every time I try to start the car. Tried unlocking every way possible but nothing. Any ideas?

 

[Duranged84]

Check all of your plugs on both sides under the dash, the 3 grounds on the passenger kick area, plugs and ground under console, check the ring around the ignition switch, it picks up the code from your key. Did you change the dash/column from another truck or take yours out and put it back? If it all came out of another truck, then you'll need to change your ignition key tumbler so you can use your original key, or have it towed to a dealer to program the new key to your security module. Is your security led flashing on top of the dash? If not did it get plugged back in?

 

[steelman83]

Great wright up! I have one problem however. .. after I got it all back together my alarm goes off every time I try to start the car. Tried unlocking every way possible but nothing. Any ideas?

Ok so after pulling my hair or for 3 days I found that my helper didn't tighten the bolt going thru the main harness connector on the passenger side , doh! Tightened her down and bingo everything works. Thanks again for the wright up don't think I could have done it without it

 

[briest]

02 explorer dash removal and heater core

You do not have to remove the lower case panel to get the heater core removed. Just remove the bolts around the front and sides of the lower cover after removing the two side vents. Then push the lower cover down to floor board.
Now cut the two heater core lines (making sure everything else is out of the way). Pull the two lines out of the vehicle.
Next pry the heater core down as it will be stuck to the case - be careful not to break anything. Slide core out of passenger side at an angle towards back of vehicle.
Then slide in the new core at a horizontal angle back into the case. Next push it up into the case while making sure the lines slide into the firewall.
You can use a block of wood and hammer to tap the lines farther through the firewall.
Final step is to put lower case piece back up and two vents.