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How to: Install camber adjusters 2nd Gen Explorer - Fixing a lowered X's alignment

Discussion in 'Seriously Lowered Explorer - Ranger Suspension Tec' started by oplitic, July 26, 2007.

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    1. oplitic

      oplitic Active Member

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      UPDATED THE LINKS

      This was on a 1998 Mercury Mountaineer.

      These are the camber adjusters I bought, they allow for the most amount of adjustment without cutting and welding...
      http://www.summitracing.com/parts/IEC-29000/

      I'll get some more detailed pics later today. These are from my phone.(writing this at 2am-ish)

      Be careful with any of these pipes/tubes/wires/lines, whatever you wanna call them. Most are metal and if kinked will need to be replaced.

      These are from memory so sorry if they aren't exact. More like helpful hints I guess. I was just trying to help people out who have never even looked at it before attempting this. (like me)

      Driver side: (the first camber on the left)

      1. Chock the rear tires, put on the parking brake, jack stands etc. all that safety stuff.

      2. Take your wheel off. And then take the black plastic piece covering where we're going to be working off. (right behind the tire) They're just push pin things. (be careful, the black piece might rip, mine did a little.)

      3. (See figure 1 #3) Unbolt this bracket and push it to the side, pretty much on top of the bushings. (10mm I believe (room for your hand)

      4. (see figure 1 #2) Unclip this and push it down behind the pipes behind where you just took it off. (room for your hand)

      5. (See figure 1 #4) Unbolt this nut. (can't remember the size off the top of my head. 17mm I believe) take off the washer and the camber.

      6. (see figure 1 #1) Pull the bolt towards the rear end just enough so the camber can twist freely.

      7. Now twist the big part of the camber (figure 1 #5) to the bottom, and then away from you a bit. (If you were looking at it like you were in the driver seat it would be like between 4 and 5 o'clock) You do this because the lines behind the shock tower are in the way. This way you have more room to pull it out.

      8. Now you can wiggle and pull and push it out. It might be hard cause of all the lines, just try to push them to the side (not too far, don't want to break them)

      9. Now take your adjustable camber kit and put them in the same way.(bolt head toward the rear, nut toward the front, easier to tighten.) Remember, slide the camber on first, then the washer. (I found if you put the camber and washer where the threads end and the smoothness begins you can put it in no problem, the lines barely get in the way, only did before cause the stock cambers were welded to the bolt heads)

      10. Once the bolt is in place put the washer and then the camber and then the nut on.

      11. Now you can tighten it and adjust the camber how ever you need to.

      Hint:putting the bigger part of the camber toward the engine will bring the top of the tire out, putting the bigger part of the camber away from the engine will bring the top of the tire in.


      Figure 1
      [​IMG]

      Driver side: (the second camber on the right)

      1. (see figure 2 #6) unhook this line. ( will give you more room to push it around in a few steps)

      2. (see figure 2 #5 and figure 3 {circled}) Behind here are 2 lines hooked on a white clip, undo atleast the one farthest away from you, if not both. (more room to play when taking out the camber bolt) (WARNING: These are fuel lines, you don't want to break these)

      3. (See figure 2 #7) Unbolt this nut. (can't remember the size off the top of my head. 17mm I believe) take off the washer and the camber.

      4. (see figure 1 #1) Pull the bolt towards the front end. (just on the other side instead)

      5. This is where it gets tricky, remember those two lines I said to unhook? (See figure 3 {the arrows}) You need to snake it between those, they don't move far enough together in any directions for enough room. Even doing that though, it still sucks to take it out. Just try not to break the lines.

      6. Now you can wiggle and pull and push it out. It might be hard cause of all the lines, just try to push them to the side (not too far, don't want to break them)

      7. Now take your adjustable camber kit and put them in the same way.(bolt head toward the front, nut toward the rear, easier to tighten.) Remember, slide the camber on first, then the washer. (I found if you put the camber and washer where the threads end and the smoothness begins you can put it in no problem, the lines barely get in the way, only did before cause the stock cambers were welded to the bolt heads)

      8. Once the bolt is in place put the washer and then the camber and then the nut on.

      9. Now you can tighten it and adjust the camber how ever you need to.

      Hint:putting the bigger part of the camber toward the engine will bring the top of the tire out, putting the bigger part of the camber away from the engine will bring the top of the tire in.

      Figure 2
      [​IMG]

      Figure 3
      [​IMG]

      Passenger Side: (so much easier)

      Well, you do the same exact thing as the driver side, just there's VERY FEW lines. And they don't even get in the way. (If they do for you just push them to the side being careful not to break them.

      Easy as that.

      Hopes this helps some people. :)
       
      Last edited: June 28, 2009
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    3. Turdle

      Turdle Moderator Masterbaker Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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    4. sport01mi

      sport01mi Member

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      Woohoo! I can finally do something with my camber kit. Thanks, just in time to replace the uppers! you rock! Thanks.
       
    5. Rick

      Rick Pumpkin Pilot Staff Member Admin Elite Explorer

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      Thanks for a very informative article. I just set you up with 6 months of Elite Explorer privileges for your efforts.

      I do have one request though. Now that you're Elite could you please upload the photos to our server so the photos will always be with the thread?

      Thanks!!:chug:
       
    6. oplitic

      oplitic Active Member

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      Thanks Rick!

      I just don't know how to put them on your server. :-/

      EDIT

      Figured it out. Changing now.
       
      Last edited: July 28, 2007
    7. oplitic

      oplitic Active Member

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      Final drop pic. Will have better pics tomorrow.

      275/45R20's

      Don't mind the dirtyness of the rims at the moment. :)
       

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    8. Turdle

      Turdle Moderator Masterbaker Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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    9. oplitic

      oplitic Active Member

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      3" drop blocks in the back and torsion key flip in the front with the camber adjusters. I was in such a hurry to see how it looked I put the wheels back on and forgot to cut the bumpstops. I had the hacksaw and sal-saw(spelling?) ready and everything! lol. It'll be done tomorrow though.
       
    10. Turdle

      Turdle Moderator Masterbaker Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      That will drop it further--
      cut the bumpstops about 1/2" at a time till you get there--
      I'll bet just a trim will get the tire even with the fender--:thumbsup:
       
    11. oplitic

      oplitic Active Member

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      Yeah, got to do it no matter what anyways. I'm resting on em now and hit hard even goin slow. lol.
       
    12. NC_Xplorer

      NC_Xplorer Active Member

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      I didn't see any mention of where you got the camber adjusters and the cost. Can you list that info, I saw another post about camber bolts from Summit Racing, and the posting said not to spend money on them. Thanks. Good post on how to install them.
       
    13. oplitic

      oplitic Active Member

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      I got them off Ebay, but you can get them from Summit Racing. I don't see them on Ebay at the moment. Make sure you get the ones like these cause they adjsut the most. And you need to buy two of these. They sell them by the side.

      link: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/IEC-29000/
       
      Last edited: June 28, 2009
    14. chevylol

      chevylol New Member

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      damn, wish i woulda seen that post before i made an order and found out the hard way that they only give you 2 at a time
       

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    15. oplitic

      oplitic Active Member

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      [edited for my memory]

      Did this so long ago I forgot what i was saying.

      I forgot that I bought them off ebay and they came in one box.

      ALSO, I fixed the links. They changed there site around some.
       
      Last edited: June 28, 2009
    16. stevovee

      stevovee New Member

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      Tip for removing stock camber plates

      This made the job much easier for me. On the drivers side the right camber plate bolt was very difficult to get out, if you put the bolt all of the way through and cut off about 0.5" from the tip of the bolt it makes it much much easier to pull out.
       
    17. Augusto

      Augusto New Member

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      this is what I was looking for, a solution to my -2 deg of camber, my 295/50R15's wear a lot on the inboard side and the camber adjustment is already all the way out, I'm gonna order this adjusters inmediatelly, hope they correct my problem.
       
    18. swshawaii

      swshawaii Explorer Addict

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      These will give you the same amount of camber adjustment (+- 2.25 degrees) as the Ingalls kits, and should be stocked
      at your local NAPA store. Wouldn't be surprised if they were identical. Two kits needed. BTW, the Moog K80065 kit is maximum plus or minus 1 5/8 degrees, but should still be adequate for your 2 degress of negative camber. Also remember positive toe in will slightly offset negative camber.

      http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...ster-Kit-Front-Susp/_/R-NCP2642953_0161955711
       
    19. Augusto

      Augusto New Member

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      Thanks a lot my friend but my closest NAPA store is like 5.000 miles away, I found the kit in Amazon.com and already ordered it.

      I'm running 1/8 in of toe in, I have great handling with this much neg camber but my tires get trashed too soon.

      Is your explorer lowered?
       
    20. swshawaii

      swshawaii Explorer Addict

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      3" rear and 2.5" front. Wouldn't have it any other way for a street Trac. BTW, I've NEVER bottomed out

      in over four years, even had two 55 gallon drums of gas in the bed once. Drove carefully though. ;) LOL
       
    21. Augusto

      Augusto New Member

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      I take it on unpaved roads every weekend, I always bottom it out and trash the screws that adjust the torsion bars, some day I need to address this problem I'm considering some air bags or air shocks.

      I used to have it lifted and shod with 33's but I got tired of it and went the other way, I'm glad I did, I love the handling on our mountain roads, I have it on the paint shop righ now for a radical custom paint. saludos amigo.
       
    22. R1dd1cK

      R1dd1cK Active Member

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      Does any one have a good set of specs for putting in an alignment machine for a lowered X?
       
    23. swshawaii

      swshawaii Explorer Addict

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      Here's the Explorer Express X-Spec alignment numbers. I found these specs
      searching this forum. Not sure which kit, or lowered ride height this applies to. GL

      Camber- 1/2 - 0 Degrees Negative
      Caster- Maximum Possible
      Toe- Positive (In) 1/16"

      FWIW, this is from DJM Suspension.
      http://djmsuspension.com/works/alignment-important/
       
    24. jeremeyndesy

      jeremeyndesy New Member

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      how many adjusters do you need 2 or 4 and how many come to a kit?
       
    25. swshawaii

      swshawaii Explorer Addict

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      Regardless of brand, one kit for each side. Two kits needed.
       

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