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How to: Install Ford 8.8" gears

Discussion in 'Offroad Drivelines' started by Creager, October 13, 2005.

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    1. Creager

      Creager Well-Known Member

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      Thats a good point, i should find somewhere to add this into the article.

      I've never gotten a chance to use one of the pinion depth finders. I'm sure it would save TONS of frustration and time. Haha, your eyes get nice and blurry assembling/reassembling those things over and over trying to get the pinion depth right, but thats not to say its not an incredible learning experience doing it the analytical way :D .

      Could you elaborate more on methods used in finding pinion depth? I know there are tons of ways which i didn't mention. Some methods allow you to find the depth using more common tools. Although i do believe you sacrifice accuracy with some of the 'bad' methods, haha.
       
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    3. sparky2263

      sparky2263 Active Member

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      There are calculations for measuring the pinion height (length of pinion "head") and then calculating from the "published" dimension of the axle in question. As you can imagine, the "previous shim" method works as good or better.

      I have a list of the "published" dimensions for most axles at the shop. I can post 'em here with the method for determining the "starting" shim. You are more than welcome to incorporate them in your write-up.

      About 1 in 4 set-ups I do have no depth marked on the gear. About 1 in 8 the marked depth comes out with a bad pattern. Then, it's back to the good ol' tried and true method of determining from the pattern how far you need to move, which way and hope you nail it the first "guess". ;)
       
    4. Creager

      Creager Well-Known Member

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      Really, the marked depth comes wrong out of the box sometimes? Hah, interesting... I guess they can’t make everything perfect for everyone. That’s probably all it is, the housing might be a tad different then their specifications

      My problem is getting it on the first guess, then going back to try and make it better, but then after hours of frustration I find myself putting it back where it was the first time haha.

      But yeah, if you would like to post some of those methods, it would be much appreciated.
       
    5. sparky2263

      sparky2263 Active Member

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      I've always felt it was a housing issue when the marked depth wasn't correct.

      I'll get that info posted up for ya'.
       
    6. glfredrick

      glfredrick Well-Known Member

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      I did my own... It worked out fine and was no real big deal once I got started.

      I worried about it for a while before doing it, after reading all the stuff out there about all the intricacies of the install. Time, start to finish was under 3 hours, including a rebuild of the L/S unit.

      About pinion depth... I just started with the shims that came off the old unit. That's a good place to start. Adjust as needed to bring the pinion into specs. No high dollar tools needed, just some patience. It also helps to hog out an old pinion bearing so that it drops on and off the pinion shaft to make changing the shims easier. Then adjust the side spacing (again, starting with the factory spacers), and backlash and you are done. Oh, I also did mine without a case spreader. Just take care when you TAP in the shims so that you don't break them. They are made of cast iron and will shatter if hit too hard.

      With a good write up like the one above, and the tools to do the job, I say, have at it...
       
    7. DailyDrivenTJ

      DailyDrivenTJ New Member

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    8. metroplex

      metroplex New Member

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      I appreciate the links to my webpages:

      http://www.redpulsar.us/~coldfusion/TT.html
      http://www.redpulsar.us/~coldfusion/tlok.html

      But if you want to use the photographs, tables, or charts, please let me know FIRST and at least host the pics yourself.

      If you have any suggestions or comments on the procedures, let me know. BTW it is very easy to remove the carrier and do the clutch/steel swap, and many people chose to just take it out of the pumpkin rather than mess with it in the car. I took out my differential because I was swapping the TrueTrac for a Traction-Lok.

      Someone here said it was the "wrong procedure". I'd like to know how you can rebuild and install a T-lok to replace a Truetrac w/o removing the carriers... Perhaps you are using osmosis?
       
    9. boominXplorer

      boominXplorer Elite Ranger Elite Explorer

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    10. r37ribution

      r37ribution Active Member

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      metroplex, i have an 8.8 Truetrac in my rear and from my install i can tell you they look nothing like your old one.

      They have 6 bolts and an additional pinion gear, they have made them much more resilient. in fact i couldn't see the pinion gears from looking at the outside of it like you can in yours.
       
    11. metroplex

      metroplex New Member

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      They released a revised version a few years ago and Bob Cosby was one of the first people to test it on his Stang.

      Stupid me bought a TrueTrac in January of 2003 and never found a large thread on Corner Carvers that chronicled the failure of the 8.8 TrueTrac since 1999 (well known problem apparently). I contacted TracTech and they couldn't do anything about it. They knew about the problem but didn't do anything about it (Sounds like Ford all the time). I have the carrier sitting on my workbench if I ever figure out what to do with it. I bought a used T-Lok and have never been happier. The clutches are easy and cheap to rebuild and the design is quite proven (20+ years on the road in service with police cars, Mustangs, trucks, etc...) I actually bought TWO T-Lok carriers because the firist one seemed to have some unusual wear marks on the part that the bearing slips over. Apparently it wasn't anything serious, so I kept that as well. I have the open diff sitting on the bench as well. You could say I have carriers all over the place...
       
    12. r37ribution

      r37ribution Active Member

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      It's unfortunate you had so much trouble with the ol' TrueTrac. Your LSD must have been out of warranty for TracTech to say they can't do anything. I hear the newer ones are very nice maintenance free rear limited slips. So far so good for me....knock on wood....they almost sound too good to be true - maintenance free rear diffs with the exception of changing the fluid.
       
    13. metroplex

      metroplex New Member

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      TracTech had not recalled their 2 pinion units during the last few years of production when they knew about the problems and had the revised units ready for production. I didn't like how they did that and especially after I spent over $300. I wasn't about to spend another $300-$400 to give their product a try.

      Their new 3 pinion units are more durable because there are 6 bolts to spread out the load.

      I'll stick with the Traction-Lok. At least you can performance maintenance if required!
       
    14. Creager

      Creager Well-Known Member

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      Wow, i have that thing in the pic, but it was almost $150 bucks cheaper when i got it. I bought it through randy's ring and pinion, i had asked the guy a bunch of questions, then asked him about buying the puller. He told me he would cut me a deal on it, i didnt realize i got that good of a deal.

      That puller is a freaking life saver. Ive used it maybe 10 times, each time it made short of that work, thats for sure. 5 minutes to pull a bearing, from actually get the puller out, assembling it, poping the bearing off, to putting all the tools back, easy as cake. All i need is a press now.

      It works for most any other type of pulling you can think of. I can remember exactly what the hell we were doing, but we even used parts of that thing to make the silicone couplers for my intake fit easier/quicker. Im going to see if it will work on the bearings in the manual tranny, if i ever get down to it. That way ill know i really got my money's worth for it.

      Sorry for that. You have been properly cited at the bottom of the write up. The original intent was to host the pictures here, but that never got off the ground.
       
      Last edited: September 18, 2006

      Elite Explorer members see practically no ads, can add their own profile photo, upload photo attachments directly to your posts and Media Gallery, create more private Conversations, and more. Join Today. Your support is greatly appreciated.
    15. dkchrist

      dkchrist Well-Known Member

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      nice write up maybe gonna change gears on a jeep :thumbdwn:
       
    16. ming

      ming New Member

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      :thumbsup:
       
    17. CougarX

      CougarX Well-Known Member

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    18. general x

      general x Hopeless addict

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      In the event that you break off the main retaining pin bolt inside the carrier and are unable to remove the pin that retains the side gears what can you do besides somehow drilling it out while the carrier is still in the differential housing? A friend of mine is trying to replace an axle seal on a 8.8 from a f150 and it would seem someone before me has broken it or it broke during operation (If thats at all possible) This is the second time we have had to deal with this problem and a straightforward solution would be much appreciated ^^
       
    19. glfredrick

      glfredrick Well-Known Member

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      To the best of my knowledge, there is no straightforward solution to this problem. A broken bolt in that position is nothing but a problem.

      Depending on how far below the surface of the hole the bolt is broken, you might be able to weld another bolt to it and back it out, but that procedure would be iffy at best.

      It will be difficult to drill also, but if you are contemplating drilling, start with a COBALT LEFT-HANDED drill bit. The hardness of the cobalt and the left-hand threads will sometimes bite into the bolt and back it out during the drilling process.

      This tool by Snap On will help guide the drill bit accurately -- worth its weight in gold for this type of procedure (Note that individual parts can be ordered separately to save money!):

      http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...&group_ID=1254&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

      http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...group_ID=15533&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog
       
    20. JohnC76

      JohnC76 New Member

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      So can you gear guru's help me figure out what is wrong with my 3:73 gear install on my 8:8?

      I had a Ford dealer instal my Ford racing 3:73 gears. Afterwards, I smelled gear oil. I jacked up the car, looked under it, and oil was all over my mufflers, rear, and fuel tank. It also gets on my rear bumper.

      It leaks from the front of the housing, so I thought it was the pinion seal. I replaced that and it still leaks right at the seal. What do you all think is wrong with this stupid thing?

      I should've made The dealer fix it, but after them screwing up, I didn't want to ake it back and have them hack on it anymore. :mad:
       
    21. glfredrick

      glfredrick Well-Known Member

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      You paid them good money to do a job correctly -- take it back and shove it down their throats.

      It sounds like they forgot to install the oil slinger -- a washer/spacer looking part that actually works to sling the oil into the drain channel so it doesn't blow out the seal -- that, or -- they somehow messed up the vent line and it is getting hot and blowing out the seal.
       
    22. JohnC76

      JohnC76 New Member

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      Where is this vent line? And if this washer is missing, how hard is it to replace? Can I just take it apart and put in a new one, or will it need to be dial calibrated or whatever? :(

      I just don't have the tools to really do gear work. This is why I paid these clowns to do it. I've done everything else to this car myself. :mad:
       
    23. glfredrick

      glfredrick Well-Known Member

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      You would have to pull the pinion and re-set up everything.

      You really need to get educated in gearing an axle -- it would help you diagnose your problem and decide whether or not you can do your own work. Here is a good place to start:


      http://www.selectric.org/manuals/rearend/yukoninstman.pdf

      Here is Bill Vista's great write up from Pirate:

      http://www.pirate4x4.com/articles/tech/billavista/Gear_Setup

      And, here is a scanned in Ford factory manual from the late 60s (same axle):

      http://www.selectric.org/manuals/rearend/indexford.html
       
    24. KJTYLER

      KJTYLER New Member

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      new member gears

      im kevin i have an 85 ranger with a dana 35 a an 8.8 and i found thsi site while looking for info on installing the 4.56s i just bought this will be my first gear swap
       
    25. Tbars4

      Tbars4 Moderator Emeritus Elite In Memoriam

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      ...I nominate this to be a Sticky..

      ...Unless there is a better thread that I missed...:dunno:
       
    26. zero_psi

      zero_psi Active Member

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      hum im thinking about now just finding a 4.10 axle and swapping it this looks like a pain in the ass
       

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