Discussion in 'Stock 1991 - 1994 Explorers' started by gmanpaint, October 2, 2010.
= No bueno.
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Thanks for the Post Saved Again
Explorer back from the AC repair shop after not having AC for 12 years. Worked great but I smelled wood smoke when I started up the system. Read this thread a few weeks back and realized exactly what it was. I have a picture of the chard leaf stuck in the resistor coils (see links below) ready to start up a good sized fire with the two hand full of debris I removed from the housings. Thanks to the original poster and explorer forum for easily making this information available. Saved again. Now if I can just get these 157 and 158 codes to stop.
Update question: This is the second time my Explorer could have burned up in a fire. first was a stuck brake caliper many years ago. Thanks Gmanpaint for the post. But I have a question. In your first photograph in the post, I noticed the vacuum lines connected to the top of the airfilter box are connected in a different order than mine. Which way is the correct orientation for these two hoses? Perhaps the valve is oriented differently on your air filter housing cover than mine.
I didn't even realize I had the vac lines backwards in that pic. My mistake. I will update it, so not to confuse anybody again. Thank you for pointing that out.
The correct order for them is the elbow boot to the left (fender) and the straight vac line to the right (engine).
The straight vac line goes to the thermostatic control valve (hidden) that controls the hot/cold air intake on the cold air inlet tube below the battery/headlight area.
The line with the elbow goes to the engine vacuum.
Vac Lines Confusion
So now I'm really confused, Sorry just checking. Isn't your description of how you should have the vac lines connected the same as they are in the photo at the beginning of the thread? Should I have mine connected like in your photo or reversed? Thanks for clearing it up for me. It's been a long day for me.
I edited the 1st post with the proper picture showing the proper placement of the lines. The way they are shown are the way they should be installed.
I have to do the same job on my 92.
Got the resistor pack, the new blower motor with cage, and the plug that goes into the resistors. The old plug was partially melted from the heat.
Total price for everything at Rock Auto was right at $60.00
So I looked around for other stuff I should get at the same time. I ordered the little plastic rollers for the window motor repair and the door latch plastic rollers.
A word of warning if you need the plastic covers for the locking pins. The kit of plastic sleeves are not the correct ones. Get the entire latch assembly. It's called the door lock striker kit. The plastic sleeves in the door lock striker anti rattle kit don't fit the doors.
Not to my problem. The very thin hard plastic vac lines are so old they have all cracked. These are the ones that go from the intake manifold to the vac canister(also hard black plastic), to the under side of the dash to the AC switch manifold door assembly. Does that have to come directly from Ford?
Well, we got a 94 Sport in the stable now, suppose I better check this out on it. Thanks Gman, good write up buddy!!
Had this problem in my green one, luckily there was no fire, just smoke. I need to do this on my current ride thanks for the reminder!
Pictures are fixed
They worked for me, but then I just remembered, I installed the PB work around on firefox. Whoops!