How to remove front drive shaft?

[jwrezz]

I got my shaft back today, I'll post some pics of the part that went bad, and the new part soon. Been out fighting brush fires all day so now I'm gonna rest. Can say this after reading that article from pirate 4x4, the double cardan joint is what you need to run for high strength, high angle, joints. I'm glad I got that instead of the true CV style. I'll post some more stuff w/ pics tomorrow I guess. Thanx for all the help IZwack!

 

[IZwack]

Can say this after reading that article from pirate 4x4, the double cardan joint is what you need to run for high strength, high angle, joints.

Wow great. My main reason for using the double cardan joint shaft is because my manual 1354 transfer case came with a u-joint type front output. But what you said is great - and allow me to add that cardan joints are easier to service than the CV ball-in-cup system cauz most of the time, its usually just the u-joint that needs to be replaced and that usually takes just about an hour or so.

 

[jwrezz]

Here's some pics.
This is the assembly between the 2 ujoints. Piece at left is welded to the drive shaft. Note: ujoint installed in this pic.

Here's a close up of the centering stud and shaft end yolk.

The shaft in the above pic rides in this hole in this ball, it's packed w/ needle or ball bearings (cant remember which) and grease. When damage occurs, it's usually the bearings, but if you wait too long, the shaft or ball will start to wear. In worse case, they have to weld on a new yolk w/ centering shaft on the end of your drive shaft. I was lucky, that part was good, only need a new ball w/ new bearings, marine grease was used all around.

The ball is in upside down in this pic, but this is what happens when the boot that surrounds the whole thing leaks and crap gets in there. The entire socket is exploded in this pic.

Here is a pic of the ball that was removed from mine. Ted had to weld a piece of scrap metal into the hole in order to pull it out, it's pressed into the socket.

Total cost for 3 ujoints, installed, and the new ball section:$166

Here are some pics of the entire repaired part:

 

[SeekerFor]

Driveshaft

Where do I see the pics you are referring to?
I do not see any links in your posts.

 

[jwrezz]

The pics in the post right above yours display fine on my end. The other pics near the top of the thread seem to have disappeared. No explanation tho. Sorry.

 

[SeekerFor]

I see the pictures on the last couple of posts but not on the others.
My shaft has nothing in the middle.
Just goes from the front to the back with the multiple screws in the back.
It is a 2003 EB Limited 4.6
The slop is in the rear of the drive shaft. Really sloppy.

I hope the Ford techs have enough common sense that they are monitoring this forum. They could learn a lot from you.
The Japanese took over the car industry by listening to the workers on the floor and asking for feedback from their customers.

 

[jwrezz]

Other pics just seem to be gone. I think your DS may be different. Does it have u-joints at both ends? Or is it a large sphere like a regular CV joint? I seem to remember Ford changing from u-joints to CV joints at some point.

 

[jwrezz]

Does yours even have u-joints? I think Ford switched to CV joints at some point. Also, you could just remove the front shaft and drive like a 2WD truck. I was driving mine while the shaft was being fixed.

 

[jwrezz]

I mean the normal sphere shaped cv joints, not the double cardan joint.

 

[SeekerFor]

Front dive shaft

Thanks everyone!

I think that is what I will do.
Just take it out until I grab a new one.

My wiring system does some weird stuff.
One day one thing will work the next it doesn't.
I will check the wires coming through the driver's door.
Happy July 4th!!