How To: Replace an air conditioner accumulator in an Aerostar.

[rv4fun]

I wonder if that sealer you used sealed up the screen in the orifice tube? That would cause cycling. I don't have any faith in the sealer.

If the Schrader valve in the access port is leaking, you may have to remove the charge to replace it. I doubt if any amount of Teflon tape will help seal it. Those threads in the port aren't much and the plastic threads on the cap can't be tightened much - it's just a dust cover.

 

[BrooklynBay]

It stopped cycling once I gave it another charge in the afternoon. High humidity causes condensation in the system. I hope that it won't be a problem in the future. Here's an interesting article with various opinions from shop owners: http://www.imcool.com/articles/aircondition/ac_sealants_p2.php

 

[rv4fun]

I'm not sure what you're referring to as "high humidity causes condensation in the system" but moisture "in" the system starts a chemical factory inside the system. That's why new receiver/driers and the use of a good vacuum pump are recommended after opening a system. The refrigerant must remain dry with no non-condensibles like air (which contains oxygen) to react with the normally inert refrigerant gas. Once air and moisture are introduced, all sorts of harmful reactions begin to take place - especially in the heat of the condenser. Oils turn to sludge in the presence of air - chemicals in the refrigerant breakdown into acids. Air is a non-condensible and causes higher than normal pressures in the condenser and the oil carbonizes coating the inside of the condenser with soot - a very good insulator causing even higher temperatures and pressure.

These are the reasons pure, dry refrigerant and the proper amount and type of oil is stressed as the only thing that should be circulating in the closed environment of the air conditioning system and why refrigeration service people shy away from additives like sealers.

 

[joshhemming]

Will this tool set work for the Accumulator fittings:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chrysler-Ja..._Automotive_Tools&hash=item27c39d265a&vxp=mtr

 

[rv4fun]

There should be one that fits in that kit - the one I used was the Lisle 37000.

I liked the length (as short as possible) of the Lisle tools. The space is very limited on a couple of these connectors and the shorter the better. (I've also found them very handy for changing the fuel filter.)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lisle-AC-Fu..._Automotive_Tools&hash=item27a4a7b8d3&vxp=mtr

or

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-37000-C...F8&qid=1340645408&sr=8-1&keywords=lisle+37000

 

[rickybobby]

There should be one that fits in that kit - the one I used was the Lisle 37000.

I liked the length (as short as possible) of the Lisle tools. The space is very limited on a couple of these connectors and the shorter the better. (I've also found them very handy for changing the fuel filter.)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lisle-AC-Fu..._Automotive_Tools&hash=item27a4a7b8d3&vxp=mtr

or

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-37000-C...F8&qid=1340645408&sr=8-1&keywords=lisle+37000

I bought that set at autozone, was something like $15. Works great for AC, fuel, and trans quick disconnect fittings

 

[joshhemming]

Thanks, ordered the Lisle set you recommended off Amazon.com: $10.69 SHIPPED.

 

[Jose A.]

I purchased 6 cans of Freeze12 refrigerant because I do not care for R134a, it doesn't cool at idling.
Funny how the US government bans the use of R12 but they themselves keep using it in their fleets! sounds like they want it all for themselves )

fortunately, Brasil and Mexico continue to produce R12 so if you have a yatch, you can go there and bring it back when nobody's watching.

 

[rv4fun]

Both of my Aerostars (a '96 and a '97) are working great with R134a - even in the St Louis heat and humidity. They work pretty good while idling and every a/c I ever worked on worked a lot better with some air moving across the condenser - nothing different about that regardless of refrigerant.

R12 has a GWP (Global Warming Potential) of 85000 and takes 102 years to decompose in the atmosphere while R134a is listed as having a GWP of 1300 and takes 14.6 years to decompose. R12 is one of the more longer lived refrigerants in our atmosphere and that's why it's production was band first. We only have one mother earth - I suggest we all respect it before it's too late to turn things around.

Europe has already switched to R1234yf which has a GWP of 4 and takes only a few days to decompose. You'll be hearing more about it in the near future. It's said to be a near drop-in replacement for R134a. A couple of American vehicles will come equipped with it this year - more to follow. I've worked in the HVAC trade since 1966. Presented with the facts, I understand the reason for the restrictions we're living with today and why there's more to come.

http://green.autoblog.com/2009/10/24/hfo-1234yf-get-used-to-hearing-it/

http://www2.dupont.com/Refrigerants/en_US/assets/downloads/SmartAutoAC/MAC_HFO_1234yf_SAE_04202009.pdf

http://publications.environment-agency.gov.uk/PDF/GEHO0410BSIN-E-E.pdf

 

[Jose A.]

I haven't heard anything about R1234yf, I hope it's not an "improved" R134a. when can we get it here in these US of A ?

 

[rv4fun]

There's no rush to convert right now. The cost for R1234yf is 10 times greater than R134a now - hopefully because it's new and not in full production. While I read through the links, R134a can replace R1234yf but you can't go the other way - not sure why, it may be the oil used in the system. Better to wait and see what happens.

The 2013 Cadillac XTS will be the first "American" car to use this stuff.

http://heritage-cadillac.blogspot.com/2012/03/2013-cadillac-xts-first-to-use-greener.html

 

[Jose A.]

I have heard that Mercedes Benz now uses an electric compressor, not run by a belt, but electronically. That is very interesting, no load on the engine.

I'm sure the Cadillac a/c will be awesome, like everything they do. My girlfriend wanted a small station wagon type of car and I found her a mint condition 2007 Chevy Malibu MAXX, which is sort of a station wagon with an awesome 3.5 liter engine, (made until 2007), then I learned that Cadillac took the MAXX design and came up with the XTS which is sort of similar to the MAXX but more stylized, otherwise the same car, but "Cadillacized". we parked the MAXX next to an XTS at a shopping mall and they are almost identical. (I'm not sure if the XTS is the correct model name, regardless it looks to be a fabulous car).

 

[95ExploderOwner]

Instructions on recharging the system after the repair

When you replace the accumulator, do you have to vacuum the air out of the system or can you simply add the oil and refrigerant and be on your way? There are several posts about changing out accumulators and compressors, but no one addresses what you have to do to recharge the system. Thanks.

 

[Jose A.]

everytime you open up the a/c system to atmosphere, you have to evacuate the system from air and humidity, otherwise you damage the new parts you just installed. You need a vacuum pump which also lets you know if there is any leak at the end of the vacuum.

 

[95ExploderOwner]

Where do you hook the vacuum up to, the low or high side, or does it matter? i assume you do it with the motor not running.

 

[Jose A.]

both, you need a set of Gauges to evacuate an a/c system as well as the vacuum pump;
engine not running.

check this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F5w3lR88fqQ

 

[rv4fun]

You don't sound very comfortable with this. You should get some help.
You should have a gauge manifold that allows you to connect to both high side and low side at the same time. It's hard enough to pull a vacuum through the gauge hoses and schrader valves but trying to get a good vacuum through only one side doesn't do much good. While it's much easier to pull a good vacuum when it's hot, the engine should not be running while you've got the vacuum pump running.

Opening the wrong valve when trying to recharge your system could blow-up the can if you aren't careful.

 

[Jose A.]

I agree; Messing with air conditioners is dangerous. I went to A/C school for a total of 9 weeks and I still don't understand everything there is to know. Everytime is back to square 1.

I always take my a/c problem to someone who has been doing it for years, not to mention Automotive Refrigerants can make you blind if you don't know what you are doing.

If you have to buy a vacuum pump and a set of gauges, a costly expense, might as well let someone do the repair who has been there, done that, and who will guarantee the repair.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Since this is A/C season, various people have been asking questions about the location of certain parts in the A/C system. I came across this photo in my Ford software while looking for something else: