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how to replace heater control/bypass valve

Discussion in 'Stock 1995 - 2001 Explorers' started by wangmauler, November 29, 2007.


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    1. wangmauler

      wangmauler Member

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      Hey all. I've read up a bit on this site on how to replace the Heater control/bypass valve (on a 1998 ford explorer sport 4WD 6cyl), but still have some unanswered(and unasked) questions.

      I went to CAP and grabbed one, was $21 bucks.

      Now i'd like to replace it, but if i cut the hoses that are connected to the stock one(which is faulty), it seems like there will not be enough length left in the hoses to reach, is this true(buy new hoses) or should I be okay(cut and go)?

      Also, before i start cutting, what preperation should I do so that not much coolant leaks out? is it going to spit out everwhere when I make a cut?

      Thanks guys!
       
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    3. Blee1099

      Blee1099 Evil Asian EF Vendor Moderator Emeritus

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      The hoses are simply just connected to them.. Just yank em off and then re-connect them to the new control valve.
       
    4. toypaseo

      toypaseo Flunked daycare Elite Explorer

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      Burp system afterwards.

      My local Ford did not burp the system after they replaced mine, so my temp gauge reads colder and/or flutuates alot.
       
    5. DeRocha

      DeRocha NEX Vice President Elite Explorer Moderator Emeritus

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      Ben is 100% correct :thumbsup:

       
    6. alohamonte

      alohamonte Active Member

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      valve

      i replaced mine just 3 weeks ago.

      i noticed when the heater control valve started to drip onto the exhaust manifold making smoke.

      it's an easy fix. I did not drain the system, very little coolant spills out, just a few ounces. Open the radiator cap first to remove the pressure and you'll be fine.

      dont cut the hoses or you'll wind up buying new ones. Unclamp them. Twist & pull at the hoses until the valve comes loose. and replace. it's very easy and took me 20 minutes and i'm beginner skill level.

      tools needed: plyers and shop towel
       
    7. atomixist

      atomixist New Member

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      Where is the HCV located on the SOHC? Where did you find out how to replace it also? I need to replace mine but I can't find it.
       
      Last edited: January 14, 2008
    8. j0rdantay10r

      j0rdantay10r New Member

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      Hey guys,

      I was having problems with my HCV so I replaced it. Now that I've replaced it, I get no more leaks from that area (which was originally causing my car to overheat). I believe I connected everything properly but now the heat doesn't work anymore, it just blows cool air. If I leave the heat on, it opens the valve and that's when my car overheats. If I leave the heat off, the car doesn't overheat and I get no leaks.

      Can anyone post a picture of how the hoses should be connected on a '96 model 2 WD Ford Explorer Sport? I will try to post a picture of how my hoses are connected if I can figure out how.

      Thanks in advance.

      [​IMG]

      [​IMG]
       
    9. baddriver

      baddriver Member

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      on the engine side of this valve.. which hose goes where... it cannot be seen from the pic?

      top hose -> manifold and bottom hose -> water pump???

      or vice versa???
       
    10. help

      help New Member

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      I also need to know how the hoses are ran. The heater control valve blew up a couple weeks ago and I did a work around until I could get the part. now I do not remember how the hoses are connected. Thanks for your help on this issue.
       
    11. Leslie72

      Leslie72 New Member

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      How do I burp it?
       
    12. Prospeeder

      Prospeeder New Member

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      yea sombody needs to respond to this, lol i havent a clue which goes where either.
       
    13. funkylikeagoat

      funkylikeagoat New Member

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      j0rdantay10r : Sounds to me like you need to replace the heater core.

      To 'burp' your cooling sys. you should uncap your radiator (while cool), allow your vehicle to warm up to op. temp. this should work out any air that may have been introduced during a coolant change or adding of fluids. You will know youre successful if the coolant in your radiator swirling and void of any bubbles.... if yo u dont see coolant swirling then youre a little low so add a bit and repeat!
       
    14. Cardfan99

      Cardfan99 New Member

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      Don't laugh my valve just started leaking and my 1999 XLT has 252,700 miles on it.
       
    15. koda2000

      koda2000 Explorer Addict

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      i couldn't get my SOHC to burp to save my life after changing the lower rad hose. tried all the suggestions on how to do it. i finally decided to take it around the block. w/in a 1/4 mile the TEMP gauge pegged on high and the radiator puked into the reservoir and blew the cover open. i rolled it home, added about 1/2-3/4 jug more of antifreeze mix (once it cooled down) and then it was fine.
       
    16. Napu(StrongWave)

      Napu(StrongWave) Member

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      How can you tell if the heater control valve is going bad? I can hear pressure building up around that area every time i start up my engine..
       
    17. Napu(StrongWave)

      Napu(StrongWave) Member

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      My temp gauge is working fine and the heater works well..
       
    18. koda2000

      koda2000 Explorer Addict

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      the heater control valve will leak if it starts to wear out. as far as its operation, vacuum opens it and lack of vacuum allows it to close. when open it allows hot water to flow through the heater core. if your temp gauge reads normal, the heater control valve isn't leaking and you're getting heat - all is good.
       
    19. Burnsey

      Burnsey New Member

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      Heat and HCV problems

      Related Question to this thread. I changed the water pump and thermostat the other day, and now I don't have any heat. Flushed the heater core today - not plugged, and still I don't have any heat.

      Here is the strange part. When I first started the vehicle up after flushing the core, had vacuum to the HCV. After 10 min, no vacuum to the HCV.

      Now I'm looking closer at the HCV. I don't have consistent vacuum to the valve. does anyone know where the vacuum is generated? Any suggestions on the heat problem?

      thx
       

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