How to: How to: Replace Sway Bar bushings (frame only)

[eric22]

I just did this today as well as the sway bar stabilizer but I didnt grease it ): noise is still there wish I would have joined this site before doing repairs lol

 

[Sean215]

Another great writeup I've found on this site. Thanks for taking the time to post it as it saved me alot of time and money.

I used a different method for figuring out my swaybar diameter. It's not an exact measurement but it is close enough to distinguish between 30, 31 or 32 mm swaybar.

First, I measured the circumference (C) with a piece of string and marked the string w/ a Sharpie. I measured the distance between the two Sharpie marks on the string in inches and converted it to mm using a conversion chart I found here, http://mdmetric.com/tech/cvtcht.htm. Then using the old formula for a circumference of a circle, C=2 pi r, solve for 2r since the diameter is twice the radius. So basically, whatever the distance you measure w/ the string is just divided by pi or 3.14 and that will give you your swaybar diameter.

 

[miker104]

So it finally stopped raining (probably won't rain again till October!) and I tackled the other side this weekend.

If I had to do it again and without access to a lift, here is how I would do it:

Loosen front lug nuts (both sides) before jacking vehicle.
Parking brake on, chock rear wheels, Jack front and put on stands (make sure tires are off ground) and jack stands not on control arms (use front crossmember)
Remove front wheels (much better clearance without a lift)
Use propane torch to heat bolts. You can access one of the bolts from a hole in the frame on the outboard side.
Use 15mm socket/ratchet to remove bolts. Do one side at a time!
Remove bracket/bushing and clean swaybar.
Grease inside of bushing and install on swaybar. Install bracket and bolts. May need to move swaybar with prybar to get the bolts to install. Torque bolts to 52 ftlbs.
Install wheels, remove from jacks, tighten lug nuts.

I got the greasable ones from Advance Auto, will grease when doing oil changes.

Squeak free!!!

 

[SyberTiger]

I'm long overdue to change mine out. I'm getting tired of squirting WD40 on them every oil change to hush them up. They only stay quiet for about 2000 miles...well ahead of the next oil change. I'm looking at the bushings that have the grease zerk. That way I'll just shoot them up with Lithium grease every oil change. I take it that the Energy Suspension Polyurethane Sway Bar Bushings; for 1-1/4" Diameter Bar were used because your sway bar is 31mm. I was looking at the Energy Suspension website that showed them to be 31.5mm. I assume that extra 0.5mm still makes these workable for a 31mm sway bar? BTW, does it make more sense to torque the bolts when you have the weight of the vehicle on the sway bar?

 

[Ronin8002]

SyberTiger, I have the 31mm swaybar as well and I just installed the 1.25" Energy Suspension greasable bushings that you showed in your post. It fit up just fine with no excess play. Well worth the 25 bucks IMO.

I loosened the swaybar ends before installing so I'd have a bit of slack to work with but I don't think it was really needed. After the install I just tightened them back down all the way.

I'm long overdue to change mine out. I'm getting tired of squirting WD40 on them every oil change to hush them up. They only stay quiet for about 2000 miles...well ahead of the next oil change. I'm looking at the bushings that have the grease zerk. That way I'll just shoot them up with Lithium grease every oil change. I take it that the Energy Suspension Polyurethane Sway Bar Bushings; for 1-1/4" Diameter Bar were used because your sway bar is 31mm. I was looking at the Energy Suspension website that showed them to be 31.5mm. I assume that extra 0.5mm still makes these workable for a 31mm sway bar? BTW, does it make more sense to torque the bolts when you have the weight of the vehicle on the sway bar?

 

[Sean215]

Here's my 2 cents for whatever its worth (prob much less than $0.02)

I measured my swaybar w/ a piece of string to get the circumference then divided by 3.14 to get the diameter. Not quite an exact measurement but I figured close enough. Anyway, my measurement didn't come out to a whole metric number but I think the closest or most likely size for my swaybar turned out to be 31mm so I went out and bought that one. When I finally installed it, there was a very small gap (prob about 0.5mm) between the inner diameter of the bushing and the swaybar...... small but enough to make me nervous and wonder if I had the wrong size. I put it on anyway and greased it up real good and I have never heard a peep. I've heard that if you have too big of a bushing you'll hear a loud clunking sound when hitting bumps but I've heard nothing. So long story short (too late for that I guess), I had a small gap between my bushing and swaybar and it hasn't given me any problems.

 

[ld50]

I would use a silicone or teflon based lube on rubber or poly. Wd40 will work temporarily but it washes out any previously applied grease.

 

[2002GreyHD150]

Nate's original idea of using the "adjustable wrench" aka Crescent wrench is prefect for 90+% of the home mechanics without a metric wrench above 22-24mm or 1".. lol

For us old dogs who junk yard shop regualrly: the best way to check a sway bar w/o a digital caliper (REALLY? $9 at harbor freight!!) open ended side of a combination wench. I specifically have in my Junk Yard tool kit SAE & Metric "crows feet" which are open ended wrench "ends" that you can use with a 3/8" ratchet..

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-18-pc-standard-and-metric-crowfoot-wrench-set/p-00934188000P

to get to 20mm+ you have to spend the Snap-On bucks... LOL... but y'all get the idea...

Harbor Freight digital caliper: http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?keyword=caliper should be in EVERY man's basic tool kit...

$20 everyday, always on sale-cycle for $10 the SAE/Metric digital is important enough, I have 1 in the junk yard tool bag and another in the household tool box for all to use.

Oh... the grease fitting equipped brackets are the way to go once you find your size.

Rob

 

[miker104]

Oh... the grease fitting equipped brackets are the way to go once you find your size.

For those of us that stay on road 99.9% of the time I would agree with this. If you do any serious off road driving I would stick with the original bushing mount as it is much beefier.

 

[firemech]

Hello, I had same problem with the wife's limited, I drilled thur the bracket and bushing and installed a grease fitting a couple of pumps with grease gun all was good. Worked like a charm and wifey is happy

 

[pjohnson1980]

I would use a silicone or teflon based lube on rubber or poly. Wd40 will work temporarily but it washes out any previously applied grease.

The red poly bushings should be using the silicone lube, not standard grease. Thats why the squeak came back!

 

[swshawaii]

This lube can't be any more specific for poly bushings.
Not available in cartridge form for grease guns.
Very sticky, hand packing would be really messy.

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...uYjGDw&usg=AFQjCNEENYrIf8oGhIrd4g8vkLNVRkC7dQ

 

[Black92LX]

This lube can't be any more specific for poly bushings.
Not available in cartridge form for grease guns.
Very sticky, hand packing would be really messy.

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...uYjGDw&usg=AFQjCNEENYrIf8oGhIrd4g8vkLNVRkC7dQ

One must use a grease specifically for polyurethane bushings if not you just wasted your money, time, and effort.
And it is available in a tube for grease guns
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/PTP-19-1751

 

[swshawaii]

Energy Suspension's Formula Five Prelube description:

This bushing lube can be used for any polyurethane or rubber bushings, or even metal components .

Summit Racing's web site description:

Assembly Lubricant, Formula Five Prelube, for Polyurethane Bushing Installation

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...iJS0Bg&usg=AFQjCNF9Q1jU_RJgvzMWGiPLrr-6tRaAuA

 

[fusseli]

Ugh what a PITA. I went to replace my front bushings (polyurethane NAPAs) this afternoon after work, and somehow I managed to get two of the four bolts (one on each side, one the front bolt the other the back bolt) cross threaded on their way back in. I am having a hell of a time getting the bolts straight back into the original threads now. It's just awkward enough of an angle that it's tough to be sure I'm applying force straight enough to get them lined up right. Any ideas?

 

[fusseli]

Ugh what a PITA. I went to replace my front bushings (polyurethane NAPAs) this afternoon after work, and somehow I managed to get two of the four bolts (one on each side, one the front bolt the other the back bolt) cross threaded on their way back in. I am having a hell of a time getting the bolts straight back into the original threads now. It's just awkward enough of an angle that it's tough to be sure I'm applying force straight enough to get them lined up right. Any ideas?

Found a workaround. There are nearby holes in the frame that were easy to get to once removing the inner fender well splash gaurds. I was able to fish a new nut into the frame, and used a slightly smaller diameter Grade 8 bolt that fit through the stripped chassis nut. The Haynes torque spec of 41ftlbs is a bit higher than the bolts I used are rated for, so technically they are over-torqued... so if one ever breaks I will have to consider another alternative. I am not too worried though, I don't excessively work my suspension much.

 

[sfhess]

I would use a silicone or teflon based lube on rubber or poly. Wd40 will work temporarily but it washes out any previously applied grease.

Energy Suspension makes grease specifically for their poly bearings that works very effectively.

Also, remember that WD-40 is not a lubricant. The effect it has on squeaking bushings is temporary.

 

[faberj]

I know this is an old thread, but i just wanted to thank Nate for the post. I got tired of listening to the noise going over any bump. I was able to replace the bushings without any problems, which for me is unusual. Thanks again.

 

[WudaCudaShuda]

I'm getting ready to change mine out too......thanks for the write up.

 

[natchomamma]

Okay, this doesn't sound like the issue I'm having. I'm having squealing when making a hard right turn at low speeds, such as when turning into a parking space. Hopefully replacing the ball joints will solve it.

Thanks for the quick response.

This is my issue too slow turns and squeeking. Is this a symptom of the ball joints? My ball joint rubber seals are cracked, etc...

Thanks.