How To: Replacing Front Hub / Bearing 1995+ Ford Explorer IFS

[metalmechanic]

From the Haynes manual...

Hub nut:

thru 2001- 157-213 ft/lbs
2002 and up- 162 ft/lbs

wheel nuts:

100 ft/lbs

hope that clarifies...

 

[CDW6212R]

That sounds about right. I crank the big bolts tight with a breaker bar, but understand that I've been doing car work for decades. A new enthusiast should really use a torque wrench, it takes a long time to know by feel what tightness is being reached.

Be careful, I have had friends find out how easy it is to twist a bolt right off. They grew up being taught by father or friends to tighten "it" as tight as they could. That works fine for a kid of 8-12 years old, but not when he grows up to be 6'5" and 270 pounds strong. Regards,

 

[metalmechanic]

T A new enthusiast should really use a torque wrench, it takes a long time to know by feel what tightness is being reached.

For sure...all the mechanics at my shop use a torque wrench, even the older guys, cuz if we don't then the new guys won't either.

 

[CDW6212R]

Yes, it takes a lot of experience. With experience it is learned what bolt sizes need certain torque. More importantly for efficiency, experience teaches you what bolts are critical to torque accurately with a torque wrench.

I would never build an engine or transmission without a torque wrench. The valve body bolts are critical to be perfectly tightened. The same goes for rod bolts, valvetrain, everything inside of an engine.

Stuff like a huge spindle bolt are no big deal for an experienced mechanic. The majority of under hood fasteners are the same way. Pros know by bolt size how tight they should be. The use of air tools causes more headaches due to over tightening. Take care all,

 

[phlawford]

I've done a few front bearing changes on different vehicles over the years.

If the shaft nut is a self locking (nylock type) then buy a new nut.

Re-torque the nut after taking the vehicle around the block.

Check the external face of the nut. If there is a small # such as 10 stamped onto it then it is a metric. The front of most Haynes manuals explain how to identify what thread is used.

32mm seems a popular size and it is 32 mm on my 2000 Explorer 4WD.

If you need to buy a breaker bar, go for a heavy one, you may need a 1"- 3/4socket adaptor, but the bar will have very little bend.

If there is no suitable piece of pipe to hand, try the trolley jack under the end of the bar. Remembering of course which way you are trying to turn the nut in order to loosen it.

Not all sockets are made to the same tolerances and it may be worth investing in a better quality socket.

Mine came from the UK and is made by Britool.

 

[BAStumm]

Just performed this repair this weekend, thank you to the original poster.

My two cents...

I mistook part of the steps and ended up removing the ABS sensor from the old hub, this required an allen wrench. I discovered my mistake soon after, the 8mm you refer to is behind everything out of sight. I also found it easiest to cut/tear the old retaining clips off, those buggers were stuck. Then I knocked the remaining barbed back through the hole the other way, dont worry they fall out. Mine also came with new mounting clips for the ABS sensor.

I found the axle nut at NAPA, they can't find it by the car but after lots of messing around my local shop found it. part number 630-1642 and it cost like $5.50 or so.

 

[GeorgeH]

Is this procedure basically the same for a 2006 4WD?

 

[BigBadStang]

16. Reinstall wheel and lug nuts (don't forget to anti-seize the lugs!) and lower the vehicle.

Ummm...I would caution against using anti-seize on the wheel studs/lug nuts on a street driven daily driver, I've seen it first hand, they can work loose with that stuff on them.

 

[jerrylaird]

Thank you this how to help me out. I got my part from am-autoparts.com for 75.95 each and free shipping. had it on for 2 day and no problems.

 

[BigBadStang]

Replaced mine with an SKF brand from NAPA. From the time the jack went under the truck to the time I backed it out of the garage was 45 minutes. The only thing that could keep the average "Joe" from doing this would be the lack of tools/equipment. Very easy install compared to the last hub bearing I replaced. The last one was on a customer car and I had to press it out/in and the hub also had to be pressed out/in. They sure have made it easy since I was "wrenchin" for a living!

 

[Silver X]

This write up helped alot thanks!

I read it yesterday because I heard a little rumbling up front. It didn't long for it to fail! Only about 50 miles from when the noise started, til the hub broke. I was pulling it into the shop at work and it just popped as I turned toward the lift where I was going to check on it. The wheel started wobbling badly and looked like it wanted to fall off. I was lucky I didn't try to drive home and work on it there as I had planned.

Had to have my wife bring the part to me, while I borrowed some tools and took the truck apart. It was very quick and easy since I knew what to expect. Works great now, but I probably should've done both sides. Hopefully the other one lasts awhile.

 

[Silver X]

Decided to do the other side today. Didn't want to worry about it.

Did this one at home, but it was still easy.

 

[xdviper]

I had mines serviced also, the front left one and an month later I heard grinding noise from it, come to check up on it, it was the dust cover thing behind the disc rotor. I removed it and it's perfectly silent now. You guys should also remove it or replace that as well.

 

[CDW6212R]

Yes, those dust seals/shields can make noise etc. if they touch the backside of the hubs. They need to be pushed/driven onto the axle enough so that they don't contact the hub, just end up near it. They are rubber so if they do touch they will just wear out by rubbing on the metal hub, leaving dust debris, which may do no harm.

 

[xdviper]

CDW6212R, Yes that too, expect mines weren't rubber, they seemed like a thin piece of aluminum which were rusted way beyond staying in one spot. It was loose hanging on only one screw!

 

[ktnj]

Thank you this how to help me out. I got my part from am-autoparts.com for 75.95 each and free shipping. had it on for 2 day and no problems.

What brand did it end up being? Doesn't show on the website.

 

[jeffescortlx]

17. Perform final torquing of the lug nuts and axle nut (250ft/lbs).

Hub nut:
2002 and up- 162 ft/lbs

Great how to!


But have a question, I'm about to do one on the front of a 2002. I just got off the phone from a buddy that works at a shop, he say's the axle nut tourq is very important because it will effect the wheel bearing adjustment.
I've done a few FWD wheel hub's, this exsplorer front hub just looks like an over sized FWD vertion, I've never used a torq wrench on the axle nut, I just put the nut on tight with a impact wrench and called her good. Never had a problem, seem's the assembly is all pressed together anyways and the axle nut just hold's every thing together, but cant put enough pressure on the hub to change how the bearing is pressed together, am I wrong?

 

[abhagers]

A question...

Does the hub assembly play any part in the 4x4 function - - is it similar to the auto locking assembly on the older models?

Thanks

 

[thumper326]

Hi, new here, kinda dont belong. I have a 04 Ranger XLT 4X4. Is the proceedure the same for the 04? Also, any special tools for the 04?

This is a great post.

Thanks for the info
Greg

 

[CAMPD820]

Many Thanks

Did both of my hubs this last week. This writeup was a great confidence builder. Im a pretty good mechanic, I just hate to do it.
The only thing I would like to add is how to tell which one is bad. If the noise goes away when you turn right then it is your drivers side. If it goes away when you turn left then it is the passenger side. I figured this out the hard way. Oh well $360.00 later I have both new hubs rather than just the one that was bad.
Thanks alot!