How To: Replacing Upper Ball Joints on a 3rd Gen 4x4 [Pictures]

[andreapeach01]

Thank you for the post. I am getting ready to replace mine and I can do this myself instead of paying someone over $400 to do it for me!!!

 

[jayton]

sorry... double post.

 

[jayton]

So retard at Advance gave me the K8008 with the splines and grease fitting after i told him which one i wanted. Are there 2 different versions of the K8008?

Same thing happened to me yesterday. Check out this post: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2460526

Did you ever find the correct K80008 at another store? I wonder if the design was changed? I don't want to try to press a ball joint in my control arm that has splines! It would probably tear up the control arm.

The picture on the Advance Auto Parts website and on their computer at the store show the correct ball joint.

 

[Tekreck]

I see this for the fronts, any advice for the rears?

Is this a test for a Wannabe? (e.g. no ball joints on the rears)

 

[DVRDOWN]

Alright guys, I need help! I've been at this for two days now and for the life of me cannot break loose my drivers side upper ball joint from the control arm! I've been beating it with a 3lb mini sledge, a ball joint seperater tool, pry bars, pb blaster, you name it and I can't get the dang thing to pop loose! Passenger side came out just fine. The only other thing I can think to try is heat, but I don't have access to a torch. Any thoughts?

 

[thepotroast]

Alright guys, I need help! I've been at this for two days now and for the life of me cannot break loose my drivers side upper ball joint from the control arm! I've been beating it with a 3lb mini sledge, a ball joint seperater tool, pry bars, pb blaster, you name it and I can't get the dang thing to pop loose! Passenger side came out just fine. The only other thing I can think to try is heat, but I don't have access to a torch. Any thoughts?

You don't break loose the ball joint from the control arm, you press it out with the rental press as I described in the How To post.

If you're referring breaking loose the ball joint from the knuckle to separate it from the assembly, then you just need to whack the crap out of it to get it free from the knuckle.

 

[DVRDOWN]

You don't break loose the ball joint from the control arm, you press it out with the rental press as I described in the How To post.

If you're referring breaking loose the ball joint from the knuckle to separate it from the assembly, then you just need to whack the crap out of it to get it free from the knuckle.

My bad, i was referring to breaking the ball joint loose from the steering knuckle, not the control arm. I beat the crap out of it with no results, so i went out and bought a torch, and a little heat did the trick! As you can see from the picture, it was definitely time for a new ball joint, and this one took a beating with the removal process.

 

[thepotroast]

My bad, i was referring to breaking the ball joint loose from the steering knuckle, not the control arm. I beat the crap out of it with no results, so i went out and bought a torch, and a little heat did the trick! As you can see from the picture, it was definitely time for a new ball joint, and this one took a beating with the removal process.

Great job! Looks like you got it pressed out ok too. In my pics, you will see that when I pressed mine out it literally pushed the joint through the top of the cap...they were so worn out.

 

[DVRDOWN]

Ok, so i FINALLY finished my work on the X and it was a major P.I.T.A (look for a complete write up soon, thank you Michigan rust!). But after 2 test drives i'm less than satisfied. Here's what i did - new QuickStruts on the rear, New Monroe Reflex Struts with original springs up front, new upper ball joints up front (obviously). The ride is much more firm, but at slow speeds, especially when making a right hand turn over a bump, i'm still getting a rattle/clunk/wheel chirp that i was expecting the new ball joint to take care of. I've searched the forum and i know guys have talked about it but I need some help with diagnosing bad ball joints. Could this be a bad lower, bad bushings etc? Any help would be huge! Thanks!

 

[pet575]

Could be bad lower ball joint, bushings, tie rod end, or maybe even a wheel bearing. Check the lower and tie rod ends closely and spray the bushings down w/ lubricant like Liquid Wrench or something along those lines. If you can't see anything and the spray doesn't quiet things down, then I'd suspect a wheel bearing but that is just my humble opinion.

 

[explorenavy]

this write up is AWSOME! I'm very thankful i found it. I'm in Northeast Illinois, and the cheapest quote i can get is about 850 to do both front upper balljoints. Doing it myself is definitley in my sights.

im curious, why do they tell you that the entire control arm should be replaced rather than just the balljoint?

 

[zhenya08]

Hey thepotroast awesome write up I did my upper ball joint on one side, but still have a rattle noise and now want to change the lower as well.
My question is: how do I replace the lower ball joint? I couldn't find anything in the archives
except for Hitchhikingmike's write up. Can you give me an advise on how to change the lower one? I am not sure what to do with the steering knuckle during disassembly.
Thanks

 

[MountaineerDoug]

Successfully two ball joints replaced!

I did this job this weekend while also replacing the front wheel hub assemblies. This job was a little easier than the hubs. But i did learn a few things that might be noted:

1) I found getting the ball joint loose was pretty easy by beating the ball joint up with the mini sledge. However getting it back in I used a second floor jack to compress the spring a little and the new ball joint went right in.
2) It was a little trick selecting the right bits an pieces to press the old ones out and the new ones in. But once I had the right combo of bits it goes A LOT quicker the second side.
3) Access to the two mounting nuts on the driver side seemed pretty tight, but I was able to get a socket and breaker bar in there to break em loose. Then used a ratchet to get em the rest of the way. On the passenger side there is a breakline to watch out for on the rear nut but I got a socket in there too.
4) I used the 'nurled/splined Moog K8008s and had no problem pressing them in and really like the zerk fitting. These units are so much more 'stiff' compared to the worn out OEM joints.
5) Getting the driver side cotrol arm out from the wheel well was like a chineese puzzle. A bit frustrating after having wrestled with the wheel hub prior to this.
6) Once I completed the driver side, the next day I did the passenger time in almost no time flat.
7) I also found that when disconnecting the wheel speed sensor at some point I triggered the ABS Fualt Lamp (may have been during the wheel hub replacement process). But if you remove this connector and get the lamp, note that I had to drive the truck out of the drive way before the lamp went off and cleared. I think it takes some valid wheel speed signal before teh computer clears the code!

Anyway, thanks for helping me save big bucks from the dealer doing this and not having to wait for/buy complete control arms.

 

[DangerRangerXLT]

if someone didn't already ask what are the torque specs for those components?

 

[MillerTimeX17]

Just finished mine today! Excellent write-up PotRoast! Took me about 2 hours to complete both sides. Heres a pic of old and new...

 

[TAGOFFICEUSA]

What a great help this was. Thanks a lot, great job with the pics and explanation.

 

[zpaperboyz]

Had mine done yesterday. 145 km on the road and 25km fire road and they poped out the top. It was the moog with the sticky outy greese nipple. This is the second Moog ball joint in 3 weeks that has fit to loose. I bought new control arms once because my mechanic said that was the problem. I'm going mental. It takes two weeks to get parts here and I can't drive with no ball joint. Its been 21 days with out a vehicle since the aug long weekend. I'm about ready to shoot somebody or something. the non-greese nipple moog ball joint fit fine and is holding up.

So here's a question What other good ball joint companiesshould I look at if I want to give up on MOOG?
I've already decided I'm changing mechanics. I'm $800 into this now and its not working.

 

[zpaperboyz]

Well, the drive home with the ball joint stuck out the top of my a ram wrecked my A-arm so now I need to order yet another new a-arm. grrrr

 

[snickstx]

I have a question about the press used. I have the HF Ball Joint Press but it seems I need another 1/4 inch. The OE ball joint is about 4 1/2" in length but my press only gives me 4 1/4" with the adapters and tube. Has anyone used the tube from the AZ Adapter Set 27165 with this press successfully?

 

[mikecadt]

Just wondering, to press the ball joint back in, do you turn the tool around or is it a different set?