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How-To: Torsion Adjuster Flip

Discussion in 'Seriously Lowered Explorer - Ranger Suspension Tec' started by draft, September 15, 2005.

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    1. draft

      draft Well-Known Member

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      WARNING/DISCLAIMER: Anything provided in this thread cannot and will not deem me or this website (and it's management) liable for anything that may happen to your vehicle because of this process.

      First, here's a quick FAQ:

      Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

      Q: Approximately how much drop will I get out of doing the torsion adjuster flip?
      A: There's never said to be a definite amount you will receive, as each truck is different, but you can assume anywhere from 3" - 5" of drop. Usually the max for just removing your torsion bolts (and not flipping the adjusters) is approximately up to 2.5" of drop, some are lucky and get more (depending on engine size and 2-door vs. 4-door) but again, there's no set answer.

      Q: Will flipping my adjusters void my warranty with Ford?
      A: Just like other things, it will only affect it if what's wrong is a cause of it. If you're still weary about it, you don't need to do this. But be warned, it may void your warranty if something does happen. ********* is not responsible for any void in manufacturer warranty or damage done to your vehicle. Please see the header for complete warning.

      Q: Will I rub my inner fender wells being so low?
      A: Yes, you will rub most likely on full locks, and as well when going over bumps enough to slam your tire up into your fender. This can be avoided by removing your suspension bumpstops, cutting them to size so if and when you stretch your suspension out, it won't go as far as slamming your fender. May or may not considering if you're running stock tire setups or aftermarket.

      Q: I already removed my torsion bolts, is the ride worse?
      A: Depends on the person. If removing the bolts drastically worsened your ride, then you can assume this to be a tad more harsher on your suspension. Personally myself, I'm used to it, and it's not that bad at all. Some say it's extremely bad, some say it rides like stock, or even better. Replacing your shocks with lowering shocks helps, but don't depend on a miracle. Also cutting your bumpstops lets your front have more travel in the suspension. If you're looking to frequently haul material, or usually travel with several passengers, this modification is not for you.

      Q: If I want to return my vehicle to stock height, am I able to?
      A: Yes, just reverse this process exactly and you're back at stock height. If you cut your bumpstops and return the truck to stock height, you might want to replace them with a new pair from Ford if you're planning on selling it, or even for personal reasons, don't want that much travel, could expect it to be a little bouncy.

      Q: Do I have to cut my bumpstops? If so, how much?
      A: It is recommended you do so, are you could expect a harsher ride. As for myself, mine the front are completely removed, others have cut them to as little as 1/4" giving some more travel in the suspension.

      Q: Okay, so I dropped my truck, what should I do now?
      A: You need an alignment ASAP. Your camber will be around -2.0 to -2.5, or less, depending on how each vehicle is. Specs range from 1.0 to 0.0 degrees. You're going to need to purchase some "camber adjusters" usually at NAPA, Autozone, or even an alignment shop should have them, and install them. Maxing out the toes/caster and with this should do the trick to get back into specs. Shocks may help the ride, but at this point, you're loosing a lot of travel around, it may not even be worth the money, but that's totally up to you. Look above about cutting the bumpstops, this may help your ride.

      Q: If I have anymore questions, where can I get help?
      A: You can gladly ask any questions in here as alot of people know this process. You can email me at draft AT pacbell DOT net as well.
       
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    3. draft

      draft Well-Known Member

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      Now that the above is out of the way, let's move on. You'll require quite a few things to do it right, and most importantly, safety.

      - MINIMUM 3-ton jack & set of jackstands
      - 2-3 arm [gear] puller (read below on details)
      - Sockets 13mm (torsion bolts), 16mm (2-3 arm puller), and the wrench for them
      - Goggles for eye protection
      - Dremel with appropiate bits
      - Good night of sleep!

      Let's start off with putting your truck on jacks, look for the horizontal frame piece running across the front of the truck, jack it up, put it on stands. This doesn't need pictures. This is releasing most of the tension off your torsion bars, in which, makes a torsion bar function correctly. It uses the weight of the vehicle to function.
       

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    4. draft

      draft Well-Known Member

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      Now go look under approximately the middle of your front doors, and you'll see a cross member connected to the frame. On both ends, you'll see solid bars leading to the lower control arm, this is your torsion bar. You won't see the torsion adjuster until you remove the torsion plates, so go ahead and remove the bolts for them on both sides.
       

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    5. draft

      draft Well-Known Member

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      Now you can see the adjuster and how it works, this is where you'll be for awhile, so get comfortable!

      Here you have your adjuster in the normal position, what we did here is use a permanent marker to mark the stock position, it ends up resulting in just using an indented line on the adjuster for matching it up (you'll see what I mean). Also, you can go ahead and take your torsion bolts out going through the adjuster plate.
       

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    6. draft

      draft Well-Known Member

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      Now, go ahead and get your 2-3 arm gear puller out. This makes this job EXTREMELY easy, and fast. Here's the one I rented from Autozone for a $40 core charge, no daily fees. Part number is 27078 if you're going there!
       

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    7. draft

      draft Well-Known Member

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      Now you can go ahead and place this up on the adjuster like so, you're going to have to hold it in until it's snug or it might fall. You may or may not want to mark the adjuster, but throughout this page, I'll refer to it. Make sure the bolt in the center is nicely snug in the groove in the adjuster, so it won't slip on you.
       

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    8. draft

      draft Well-Known Member

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      You're going to have to "crank" up the arm puller until you're able to slid the adjuster plate loose under the end of the adjuster, and then slowly untwist and remove the arm puller. This is a dangerous part, you have a gracious amount of pressure on that adjuster and arm puller, be cautious.

      Here you have, your adjuster loose.


      Break time, you're half way through it, go grab a beer or something!
       

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    9. draft

      draft Well-Known Member

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      Next thing, is to notch the adjuster. I understand some people don't do this, but I personally had the bolt slip on me without the adjuster notched and took a good chunk out of the pavement. So here's some pictures. I used a dremel, starting slowly, making sure the divot is nice and deep and has no "soft" sides or slippery edges where the bolt could slip to. Please be sure to use goggles while cutting this, metal shavings do shoot around.
       

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    10. draft

      draft Well-Known Member

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      Now you're ready to put the adjuster back on, but this time, "flipped". Follow the mark on the torsion bar with the indent on the opposite side, and make sure they're lined up.

      There's a few different ways you can safely get this adjuster back up so you can slide the plate back in. I don't recommend using the 2-3 arm puller as there is no groove on the adjuster for it anymore, but you can freely make another, up to you. I used the jack in the back of my truck, adjusted the top to fit right next to the big hump on the end (where it connects to the torsion bar), and raised it up. Either way, be safe again here, you don't want this slipping on you.

      Here are pictures of my Explorer with the torsion adjusters flipped:
       

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    11. draft

      draft Well-Known Member

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      So now once you have the adjuster high enough, slide the plate in again, and safely lower your jack/arm puller (whichever you used), again, the pressure is a good amount. Now, your torsion bar/adjuster will NOT stay in place very well, it's recommended you either use a ratchet strap and strap it to the frame, or have someone safely keep an eye on it and make sure it doesn't fall. I prefer the strap, much safer. Now you're free to start the other side. Keep the trucks on jacks until you've done both.

      Once you're done, you won't see an immediate difference, this is because the tires need to move so they can fall in negative camber, thus lowering your truck, it can't do this sitting in place. Drive around your block real quick, that's all it takes. It will settle over a course of a few days as you drive it around more, so you might have to readjust.

      And finally, here's the results, both measurements and looks of how the drop went.

      This is the driver side.
       

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    12. draft

      draft Well-Known Member

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      And the passenger side...
       

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    13. draft

      draft Well-Known Member

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      As you can see, I got this pretty well on the dot, both sides are extremely level with each other. Now, this WON'T be possible with your bolts still remaining out. After you drive around, see where the adjustment is needed, and put the bolts in the appropriate side, and continue to drive around and correct it, it could either be a long or short process, it varies.

      This is how my correction went...
       

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    14. draft

      draft Well-Known Member

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      That's my driver side, with the weight of myself, and the gas tank, and of course the naturally heavy-weight factor of any driver side on any vehicle, we tossed it up to level with the passenger side. This side has a bolt, the other doesn't.

      This should just about do it. All I'm going to say is, please take your time and be safe! At points this is a dangerous process, and always be aware of your surroundings.

      And here's some final results:
       

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    15. crawf198

      crawf198 New Member

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      which toxic shocks did u buy? according to various onlinle retailers they dont say they sell em for the explorer.....could u put up part numbers for the front and rear? also aside from shocks and an alignment...where can i get the camber adjusters...i want my suspension just like yours....also should i run 20s or 22s on that drop?
       
    16. jah81592

      jah81592 Well-Known Member

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      Did the plate go back on underneath the adjuster bracket which was there from the factory? If not I wouldn't trust it under any droop,standard road, driveway differences,etc. I am assuming that is the plate you were talking about.
       
    17. XST

      XST New Member

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      Do you have to FLIP the torsion key? Is it possible to just move it clockwise on the hectagon or whatever... to get more drop?
       
    18. Godfather

      Godfather Guest

      Not to be a jerk, but at least one of those pictures (and some of the text) was taken from my thread posted on here about 4 or 5 years ago ("going for the gusto" step by step how-to on flipping the adjuster). I don't mind you using them, but at least give credit where it is due, and state that you got this from another source, and add a thank you to who ever it was that walked you through doing yours. I don't expect you to directly mention me, just don't act like this is something you threw together yourself...please.

      I am pretty sure the FAQ's came directly off of my website that I had up for a while after this as well. I'm not going to directly accuse you of this b/c that was a long time ago so I can['t remember how we worded the FAQ's, but you bassically got them all right there. The website was ProjectX, and you will notice a mentione to "*********" in the FAQ.

      Your truck looks great, and am glad that someone has taken the time to post this how-to again as it can be a great help (the origional had over 15k hits), just remember that plagerisim is stealing, and sometimes all it takes to make it right is a thank you.

      Congrats on your drop.

      BTW, don't let the join date fool you. I rejoined after buying the truck back last month.
       
      Last edited by a moderator: September 11, 2006
    19. Godfather

      Godfather Guest

    20. Godfather 1138

      Godfather 1138 Active Member

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      Sorry to beat a dead horse, but I got my old account working and wanted to let you know I am one in the same. Please refer any comments to this account as Rick will probably be deleating the other one soon.



      *truck really does look good man :thumbsup: *


      EDIT: I just realized how old this thread was...sorry
       
      Last edited: September 11, 2006
    21. pipesmash

      pipesmash Member

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      i lowered my ex just backing out the torsion bolts and with the alignment im stilll out of camber if i do the flip is it more likly to change the geometry so i can get it back
       
    22. enjoip8nt

      enjoip8nt New Member

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      hey i did the flip and it turned out great, more or less... i have no bump stops now in the front and it seems to be enough travel so that the the frame never hits.. ive driven it through bumps to test it and the ride is perfect and it doesnt bottom out.. im sitting at 30" all the way around (2" universal lowering blocks in the back). it looks very nice..

      ***for anybody whos going to do this i dont think the write up paid enough attention to the part where you use the gear puller... you have to first set up the puller for two hooks not three.. then its pretty obvious how to put it on especially with the pics.. but what you are looking for is the little metal rectangle that holds the end of the torsion key in place.. it should NOT take a whole lot of turns to get it loose.. once loose just back the puller out and the key comes down freely with the puller.. the little rectangles are key here..

      haha my buddy and i didnt know what the hell we were looking for and he ended up screwing the puller insanely far in to the point of it almost exploding off!!


      and also the write up doesnt tell you to bore out a small positioning hole for the puller to put the torsion keys back in place... rather than messing with straps or w.e. just bore a little hole opposite of the hole you used the puller for to get the keys out.. and use the puller with the hole you made.. to push the key back up far enough to slide those metal rectangles back in place... it was very easy to do this once we had the holes in place..

      i wish i knew this information before i flipped mine, it would have made the process much smoother...

      so now you know it, now go do it!


      ps your probably going to have to cut your bumpstops at least in half.. i took mine completely out for now.. but i will be putting them back in very soon.. if you dont cut your bumpstops the ride will SUCK! balls.. o and dont try removing the bumpstops to cut them.. just take the tire off and cut it with a hack saw where it is... trust me on this one..
       
    23. Godfather 1138

      Godfather 1138 Active Member

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      Pipesmash, your camber will actually get worse after the flip if you are going lower. The only way to completely fix it is to space, or extend the uper control arm.

      enjoip8nt, congrats on your drop. Have you taken any pics of it yet?
       
    24. enjoip8nt

      enjoip8nt New Member

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      yea i did the drop yesterday and im busy as shit... but ill get pics up in a couple of days.. im gona wash the car too : ]

      im going to get it aligned right now.. i hope to god they can align it : /

      its pretty low, but well see
       
    25. enjoip8nt

      enjoip8nt New Member

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      BEFORE:
      [​IMG][​IMG]
      AFTER:
      [​IMG]

      [​IMG]

      [​IMG]heres the 2" lowering blocks:
      [​IMG]
      and you can see here that i have no bumpstops but plenty of travel:
      [​IMG]
      and heres the alignment info from sears, the only bad thing is the camber in my front right tire.. they said it would cause very slight wearing on the inside of the tire.. but i shouldn't notice it if i keep them rotated:
      [​IMG]
       
    26. Davek1

      Davek1 New Member

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      where would i find the camber kits and the lowering blocks with the u bolts
       

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