How To: Upper Control Arm / Ball Joint Replacement (Lots of Pictures) | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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How To: Upper Control Arm / Ball Joint Replacement (Lots of Pictures)

In for an update: The very ball joint I replaced above went bad :mad: It is a lifetime warranty part, so I exchanged it. I paid more attention to removing the camber washers this time. The hardlines in there did interfere with the washers, but I just had to rotate the bolt/washer assembly until it cleared the lines. I also pushed the UCA in or pulled it out to make room. It worked on both sides, I was able to remove and replace both bolts with minimal trouble. Its all in how the washers are oriented.
 



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Does anybody know the socket size needed for the bolts? Thanks in advance :roll:
 






15mm for the pinch bolt and nut, the control arm bolts were 13/16" I believe.
 












This looks like a driver's side uca. I have a 96 explorer xlt 4x4 v6 4.0 and need to replace the passenger side uca. I ordered one online today, and it looks like the driver's side is shaped differently from the passenger's . is this correct.... any pointers on the passenger side replacement? thanks.
 






This looks like a driver's side uca. I have a 96 explorer xlt 4x4 v6 4.0 and need to replace the passenger side uca. I ordered one online today, and it looks like the driver's side is shaped differently from the passenger's . is this correct.... any pointers on the passenger side replacement? thanks.

That is correct the two are different go look at what’s on your vehicle now and you will see the difference! Just follow all the information that is listed here and you will do fine.
 












good writeup
 






In for an update: The very ball joint I replaced above went bad :mad: It is a lifetime warranty part, so I exchanged it. I paid more attention to removing the camber washers this time. The hardlines in there did interfere with the washers, but I just had to rotate the bolt/washer assembly until it cleared the lines. I also pushed the UCA in or pulled it out to make room. It worked on both sides, I was able to remove and replace both bolts with minimal trouble. Its all in how the washers are oriented.

Me and a friend just replaced both lowers and the RH upper. What went wrong with yours? so I can keep an eye on it.
 












There was slack in the joint- it moved up and down in the bore. The only way I knew it was bad is the alignment tech told me it was.

The service manual has specific methods for testing ball joints, and I confirmed this with two Ford techs. Testing some ball joints with a screwdriver or looking for up/down play may or may not be an accurate test. These joints are loaded in way where vertical movement will not affect operation.

This link has illustrations from the Factory Manual.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=203597
 






Great post. I did this yesterday and also threw in outer tie-rod ends, brakes,sway bar bushings(they where gone at 76,00mi) and spark plugs (great access at this time) The rt. upper control arm had been re-designed into a one piece item and gave me some concern. All went smoothly with install, thanks to your post. I went for an alignment immediately after and now have a bad vibration in the front right when turning at slow speeds :( Will post when I find out what I messed up. Thanks for the Tips!!!

Vibration was power steering pump, had a shop flush it out and is better :)
 






followed the instructions and the job was pretty easy

be careful when removing the left bolt on the drivers side. Mine fell down in the engine area and took over an hour to retrieve
 






what are the symtoms of bad Ball joints

What are the symtoms of bad Ball joints. I have '01 that at about 70MPH feels like unbalenced tire. I can hear ticking only when moving that increases frequence with speed of vehicle but stops when turning (I assume from placing pressure on the ticking part).
 






What exactly is the required torque for the pinch bolt? I was going to do mine but I didn't have enough time so as I was tightening the pinch bolt back down it snapped off....got it out ok and have a new bolt to replace. I was using my torque wrench set to about 45 ft/lbs, but just so I dont accidentally do it again, does anyone know, or know where to find it?
 






i just finished my uppers it was a difficult task for me (16 year old) the driver side took me an hour the passenger took me ten minutes but in the end i saved alot of money now just need to go get an alignment
 






MountaineerGreen: I paid more attention to removing the camber washers this time. The hardlines in there did interfere with the washers, but I just had to rotate the bolt/washer assembly until it cleared the lines. I also pushed the UCA in or pulled it out to make room. It worked on both sides, I was able to remove and replace both bolts with minimal trouble. Its all in how the washers are oriented.
Sorry, as a newbie, this went right past me. Can you explain this, please? Are "hard lines" what it sounds like - copper tubing or something like it? How are the washers aligned? Thanks.
 



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