How to: IAC valve cleaning thread (w/pics)

[shortstack]

^^^^^thanks

 

[JBlack]

I had the HUM really bad, so I tried cleaning my IAC today. That only made the sound worse, lol. I ended up just replacing the stupid thing, only $43 or so from Auto Zone. Works like a charm, no annoying noise anymore.

Now I need to replace the CPM synchronizer and all my annoying engine bay sounds will be gone!

 

[levarien]

Thanks all

Thanks to everyone who posted to this thread over the years. I'd been experiencing rough idling and stalling intermittently for a few months and finally got to the point where i couldn't start my 95 ranger without my foot on the gas pedal. Google pointed me to this thread and thanks to the pictures and advice I was able to fix the problem with a 5$ can of parts cleaner.

Much love Serious Explorations.

 

[jabramson]

I had the HUM really bad, so I tried cleaning my IAC today. That only made the sound worse, lol. I ended up just replacing the stupid thing, only $43 or so from Auto Zone. Works like a charm, no annoying noise anymore.

Now I need to replace the CPM synchronizer and all my annoying engine bay sounds will be gone!

I checked Autozone's website and the price shows it is $103.99 (part number TV246) and it doesn't show available in the store. Do you have a different part number?

 

[onecrazyfuq]

Ok everyone i gave it a shot today, and i used maf cleaner to clean it. Well it ran good after that for the entire day untill i did alot of highway driving at bout 75 mph. Well it started to whine again after i was parked for a half hour and i went to start it up. Does anyone have any other idea? is it the iac valve, should i take the black cap off? all ideas are welcome, its driving me insane!

 

[xwhaler]

2000 Explorer SOHC
I've had the loud hum/drone/foghorn noise for a while now and last night decided to try and do something about it. It is present at all speeds but seems to be worse/louder between 20-40 mph. When I get on the highway it doesnt seem as bad. I read the threads on the IAC and cleaned both it and the MAF. Hooked everything back up (including the battery) and didnt notice any difference....problem still there.

My question is this...is the opening between the 2 chambers supposed to be open? On my valve, it was completely shut by the small circular piece.

Also, does anyone have a source where I can get this under $75? Autozone is the least expensive of the stores in my area.

Thanks

 

[zims666]

2000 Explorer SOHC

Also, does anyone have a source where I can get this under $75? Autozone is the least expensive of the stores in my area.

Thanks

i found it on autozone dot com for $42. maybe cause i have a 4.0 OHV?

 

[zims666]

i found it on autozone dot com for $42. maybe cause i have a 4.0 OHV?

yep. the IAC for the SOHC is $74...:scratch:

 

[btexpress]

Sorry to be so late to this party, just joined the forums.A lot of these you will have to replace the IAC valve to cure the noise. On older vehicles with a black plastic valve I have found the noise caused by a plastic bellows inside the IAC that cracks, possibly why Ford got away from the plastic. I suspect a similar problem with the metal valves which causes the sonic noise you all are hearing. Even with cleaning the noise may return, plus it is easy to get cleaner into the wrong part of the valve and mess it up.

 

[S1L1K0N]

Went out this morning and my Explorer fired once then wouldn't start. Upon cleaning the IAC (after following the advice in the thread) the truck started easily. Thanks everybody!

 

[96XLTRanger]

When i was very inexperienced with my truck, and i had a very high idle (due to a vacuum leak) i assumed it was my IAC, so i took it off and cleaned it with electrical cleaner and a few q tips, and got a lot of dirty fluid out of it / whiped onto the cotton. I reinstalled it, and the idle still didn't go down, and the IAC now had a humming noise coming from it which scared me, so i 'limped' to autozone, and bought a new one for something like 47$, installed it right there in the parking lot LOL and it didn't even make a difference. they wouldn't accept a refund, so i went in later when there were different associates and said i didn't install it. (i didn't need it, anyways..)

 

[xdviper]

I just went ahead and cleaned out mine also, but I only cleaned those two holes with a paper towel and that was it, disconnected the negative for 10 minutes while I was reinstalling the IAC, and started up and it went straight to 900RPM. The engine was warm when cleaning the IAC and the engine temp only dropped little. after 5minutes of idling in Park, took it out for a go around the block and wow the X feels like when I first brought it 6 years ago.

I am going go get one of those cleaners, but would the compressed air work?
It won't damage anything and will it keep the filter dry? Thanks

 

[xdviper]

I just went ahead and cleaned out mine also, but I only cleaned those two holes with a paper towel and that was it, disconnected the negative for 10 minutes while I was reinstalling the IAC, and started up and it went straight to 900RPM. The engine was warm when cleaning the IAC and the engine temp only dropped little. after 5minutes of idling in Park, took it out for a go around the block and wow the X feels like when I first brought it 6 years ago.

I am going go get one of those cleaners, but would the compressed air work?
It won't damage anything and will it keep the filter dry? Thanks

 

[ThePhoenix]

its really not a bad thing if they get wet with cleaner..i scrubbed mine with a kicthen scrubber and soap, then sprayed with MAFS cleaner...

I even thought about some wd40 afterwards to lube the innerds

 

[Glen4X4]

Well I tried this yesterday with the electrical cleaner and the can didn't have enough pressure to really remove the dirt so I too took a QTip to the inside and got dark black stuff out of it. Of course couldn't get the whole way around that sensor so its not all clean. Then didn't give it much time to sit and dry I put it back on the ex since it was getting dark, and let it idle for 5-10 minutes took it for a ride that whine was still there, and then today when I went to the store, you can hear it some but not as much as ya use to. (first thought the whine was in the intake) If you use QTIPS make sure you don't leave any cotton residue in the IAC.

 

[Mr.Ford]

Iac or what

im kinda new to this forum im having the same problem. i pray its the iac i've never had a wining noise come from it but i believe the iac is the only thing that controls the idle spead when in P,N and R,D.I wondering were the idle should be when in R,D mine is at 600 and it used to stay at 750 minimum. Can somebody help me

 

[xdviper]

While in park it should be higher than when in D, R. N and P will give you same idle speed. Mine stays at 700-750 when it is fully warmed up, and it will drop down to 600-700 while in D or R.

When you first clean the IAC, the idle speed will drop so much that your engine will sound like its going to stall but then it gains speed and adjusts the RPMS.

 

[Mr.Ford]

While in park it should be higher than when in D, R. N and P will give you same idle speed. Mine stays at 700-750 when it is fully warmed up, and it will drop down to 600-700 while in D or R.

When you first clean the IAC, the idle speed will drop so much that your engine will sound like its going to stall but then it gains speed and adjusts the RPMS.

when the idle gets really bad it will go up down non-stop and it jus begins to sputter and it sounds like its going to stall. im going to replace iac today (2/29).

 

[Mr.Ford]

While in park it should be higher than when in D, R. N and P will give you same idle speed. Mine stays at 700-750 when it is fully warmed up, and it will drop down to 600-700 while in D or R.

When you first clean the IAC, the idle speed will drop so much that your engine will sound like its going to stall but then it gains speed and adjusts the RPMS.

i finally fixed the iac and it was my original iac.. I used gumout carb choke cleaner. Then i had to disconnect the negative battery. Then plug it in to reprogram the comp. Thank for all your you people now an explorer!!

 

[ptothedo]

Hi everyone,

Same types of issues on my 01 X Sport at 87K. Just had the pcv valve replaced two weeks ago and then last week when put in P or N after being in D or R the idle would go from 600RPM down to 300RPM then come back up. The oil gauge would also drop as well then come back. Friday when put in Park it dropped and completely turned off. I decided to clean the IAC thanks to suggestions on this forum and after a drive around the block a few times putting in Park did not cause the idle to drop. This morning however it did the same thing, 600-300 then back up. I didn't take off the black cap and clean that yet, but I'll do that tonight. Or...should I just replace the damn thing

Could it be something else too? I haven't read anywhere in the forum about this happening whenever going from D to P. It's a little rough when idle in drive but it doesn't stall or fluctuate drastically. Thanks!