IFS Heavy Duty Upgrades!

[gmanpaint]

Yes, Napa carries them still. They are under NCP.

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Tie-Rod-End-Inner/_/R-NCP2693049_0131066974

Amazon has the Raybestos Pro grades

Lower Ball joint
http://www.amazon.com/Raybestos-505...0:ford:explorer&keywords=raybestos+ball+joint

Upper Ball joint
http://www.amazon.com/Raybestos-500...0:ford:explorer&keywords=raybestos+ball+joint

Lower Left Control arm w/BJ
http://www.amazon.com/Raybestos-507...0:ford:explorer&keywords=raybestos+ball+joint

Lower Right Control arm w/BJ
http://www.amazon.com/Raybestos-507...0:ford:explorer&keywords=raybestos+ball+joint

Front Left Upper Arm/BJ
http://www.amazon.com/Raybestos-502...0:ford:explorer&keywords=raybestos+ball+joint

Front Right Upper 1 pc arm/BJ
http://www.amazon.com/Raybestos-502...0:ford:explorer&keywords=raybestos+ball+joint

Front Right upper 2 pc arm/BJ
http://www.amazon.com/Raybestos-500...0:ford:explorer&keywords=raybestos+ball+joint


Amazon also sells XRF parts

Example: XRF Lower BJ
http://www.amazon.com/XRF-USA-Inc-K7467-Joint/dp/B00MV3FTUA

I heard of another brand Called Falcon. These have Metal to Metal ball joints instead of the Nylon/plastic to Metal. Still reading reviews on these, and have no idea on the quality over time yet. Amazon sells them as well.

http://www.falconsteering.com/asp/FalconHome_950_L2.asp?PID=16&Pl2ID=8

 

[bullnerd]

Thanks again Gman, but now after going back and reading the first page, I see there is/was a big difference in price compared to Rock?

So if someone has a list of all the HD parts from Rock, it would be good to relist it here towards the end of the thread.

I might have to wait to get the parts from Rock if theres still a big difference.

EDIT: wow! thanks Gman.

I looked at the Rock again, and it looks like the AC DElco stuff is the only professional grade available? But earlier in the thread it says its the same stuff?

It does look like the prices are still better at Rock, but I have to look closer at the NAPA list you just posted.

I dont want to derail but has anyone tried the KYB shocks for the front? Is there anything available from NAPA thats a good shock.

 

[Mike's brother]

Thanks Gman! As always, above and beyond.

 

[gmanpaint]

I looked at the Rock again, and it looks like the AC DElco stuff is the only professional grade available? But earlier in the thread it says its the same stuff?

Hmm.. I looked at Rockauto under a 2000 Ex 4wd and found all kinds of Raybesto's Pro Grade products.

What vehicle / drive train are you searching with?

And yes, a lot of these parts are made by the same manufacturer and rebranded by the seller. This can change up a lot over the years as well, so It's buyer beware. I haven't researched that aspect in a while, so I can't say much as to whom is whom right now.

 

[bullnerd]

I was searching for 2000 expo 5.0. I didn't see a 4wd option. My computer searching skills are pretty lame so I'm not surprised I missed it!

It looks like the AC and Raybestos are the same, but the AC price is slightly lower on some stuff.

I'll look again.

 

[tcruarceri]

just ordered the a/c delco stuff from rockauto since i didnt feel great mixing and matching (not all the raybestos were currently listed). Will post pics for people to compare if i get a chance. Was hoping to at least get through 1 inspection season before doing the ball joints but these should last some good time, esp. since i dont plan on running anything bigger then 32s soon.

 

[TAMUmpower]

Thought I would post this here too from the ranger forum. I just bought some Moog problem solver control arms expecting to have a perfect fit but like some of you are experiencing they are loose. Not quite as bad as some earlier in this thread but still pretty bad.

I'm guessing the actual control arm is not made by Moog and is just bought from the same Chinese suppliers as everyone else. But they just have their ball joints added to it. So whoever is making these arms that all the aftermarket companies are buying has their measurements off and everyone is getting screwed.

I got mine through Jegs because they price matched the best prices I found. I'm gonna shoot them over an email and Moog and see if they can measure some other arms and see whats what.

 

[TAMUmpower]

So just spoke with Moog and Paul said that "In his experience they fit loose". I asked why since there wasnt a problem getting a tight fit when it was OEM and he said because sometimes it has to fit multiple vehicles, years etc. Which of course is true however the OEM control arms were all identical anyway and fit well so thats not really an excuse IMO.

He said that his spec sheet reads that flat to flat on the hex in the control arm should be 38.4mm +/- .5mm. I'll measure mine when I get home and see if it's within their spec. Otherwise I'm not going to mess with a swap, I think I'll just weld on some shims since apparently they slip around otherwise.

If that doesn't work it seems that the consensus is to go with motorcraft for the best fit.

 

[gmanpaint]

Any Slop is not except able IMO. The T-bars are under a very heavy Torque load, supporting the weight of the truck.

Stock Factory LCA's are a tight fit, you should have to gently tap the T-bars in/out with no load on them.

I would rather replace with new Motorcraft arms or replace the bushings/BJ's on the existing lower arms.

 

[TAMUmpower]

Any Slop is not except able IMO. The T-bars are under a very heavy Torque load, supporting the weight of the truck.

Stock Factory LCA's are a tight fit, you should have to gently tap the T-bars in/out with no load on them.

I would rather replace with new Motorcraft arms or replace the bushings/BJ's on the existing lower arms.

I agree. My Tbars were stuck in the arms so bad that I already cut them up a bit trying to get the old bars out so I cant reuse them. It seems amazing to me that they wouldnt just make them the right size. I think realistically the tooling that was made for the arms was wrong and they just dont want to fix it.

Also that there is probably only 1 or 2 places actually making the arms and thats why they are too big across multiple brands. Even the motorcraft ones looked a little looser than the stock ones I believe.

 

[TAMUmpower]

Well the battery on my caliper died so I wasnt able to measure the hex and see if it was within Moog factory spec but I did get the suspension finished up and it is able to hold ride height good so the extra play isnt preventing it from functioning. Just limits the max ride height, but thats higher than I'd need to go right now.

 

[sehaare]

So just spoke with Moog and Paul said that "In his experience they fit loose". I asked why since there wasnt a problem getting a tight fit when it was OEM and he said because sometimes it has to fit multiple vehicles, years etc. Which of course is true however the OEM control arms were all identical anyway and fit well so thats not really an excuse IMO.

He said that his spec sheet reads that flat to flat on the hex in the control arm should be 38.4mm +/- .5mm. I'll measure mine when I get home and see if it's within their spec. Otherwise I'm not going to mess with a swap, I think I'll just weld on some shims since apparently they slip around otherwise.

If that doesn't work it seems that the consensus is to go with motorcraft for the best fit.

Just measured mine and they are 38.4 +/-.2, so they are made per their specs don't know what the size of the torison bar is though.

 

[Josh C.]

just wanted to relay some experience I've had. July 2014 I replaced my whole front end with mostly all Raybestos parts. As of right now I have one split upper ball joint boot leaking grease (Advanced technology), the other is cracking. One of my outer tie rod ends is cracked and leaking grease (professional grade), the other looks ok.

I found it unusual that the boots would deteriorate so fast (around 15k). I'm in SoCal with non severe weather. I am inquiring with RockAuto about warranty exchange right now, but I will probably replace with Moog or try the TTX line (if they make them for those apps)

 

[gmanpaint]

So just cracked boots? You can replace them for few bucks.

Uppers always break because of the pinch joint on the knuckle. The tre moves and causes them to break. I don't think it will matter what brand you get, it will still happen. I just add grease to mine periodically.

 

[Josh C.]

Raybestos is honoring their warranty for them. I dont like to keep adding grease to a open boot because it seems to comes out so quickly after a few days of driving, especially with the TRE being so close to the brake rotor.

 

[ProjectAviator]

Rockauto has the AC Delco HD parts available.

Tim

 

[Greg_DonWindsor]

Had to redo front UCA and LCA's again recently due to bad ball joints. Removed the old rubber bushings and got this poly set installed:
http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/ptp-6-213/overview/year/2000/make/ford/model/explorer

Comes with enough for both upper and both lower control arms. Made a huge difference in front end performance, especially considering my larger aftermarket wheel setup. Highly recommended for those installing new control arms. Mine were pressed into the MOOG problem solver lower set, and motorcraft one piece UCA's on both sides.

 

[gmanpaint]

Had to redo front UCA and LCA's again recently due to bad ball joints. Removed the old rubber bushings and got this poly set installed:
http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/ptp-6-213/overview/year/2000/make/ford/model/explorer

Comes with enough for both upper and both lower control arms. Made a huge difference in front end performance, especially considering my larger aftermarket wheel setup. Highly recommended for those installing new control arms. Mine were pressed into the MOOG problem solver lower set, and motorcraft one piece UCA's on both sides.

Those will feel nice for a time, but from what I have heard from most shops, is they won't last like stock will. I hope they are wrong, and you enjoy them for many years to come.

 

[gmanpaint]

Adding to this thread some years later...... I installed a set of 2.0 Coil overs years back, and have recently added these BTF Uniball DOM UCA's.

 

[J_Train]

I'd like to get doing custom on mine but I've been thinking of selling it and my 5spd sport to get going on my 00 v8.