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Ignition Switch broken, How to fix lock to use original keys

Discussion in 'Stock 1995 - 2001 Explorers' started by Turdle, February 7, 2013.

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    1. Turdle

      Turdle Check it out Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Well, just when things looked better, My wife went out to start Puff and the key just turns loose feeling. It did turn the truck "on" but fails to engage starter. Will not turn off. I had to disconnect the battery.


      It is as if someone had jacked the switch with a screwdriver.

      So, which part is it I need to fix this? :D Help???
       
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    3. Turdle

      Turdle Check it out Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Last edited: February 7, 2013
    4. NICE59FORDF100

      NICE59FORDF100 Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      They do have a rod that moves with the key cylinder and moves the ignition switch. Sounds to me ( I may be wrong) that the switch itself is bad ( Have seen that more than the rod itself being the part that failed) or the key cylinder itself is not moving the rod properly. Only way to be able to tell is to disassemble the lower portion of the dash, lower the steering column (4 15mm bolts IIRC) and watch the rod as it moves the ignition switch. Or unbolt the ignition switch (while keeping it plugged in) and physically move the 'switch' to run/start ect. If it works properly, then the ignition switch is probably ok.
       
    5. BrooklynBay

      BrooklynBay Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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    6. NICE59FORDF100

      NICE59FORDF100 Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Jon, if you PM your vin number, I can look and see if there are any active recalls on the truck
       
    7. Turdle

      Turdle Check it out Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      In this picture you can see the slider rod. Greenish color with hole in it for the switch. The switch feels stiff and was in the proper position to the rod.

      [​IMG]

      HOwever, when turning the key I can "feel" something in there doesn't seem to be pushing enough, or pulling back. I think the switch itself is dependent on the rod position, the lock does the pushing and pulling--correct?

      In other words, the switch itself is not spring loaded for return. I can push the switch to the "start" position by hand, it does "spring back" from that position.

      More pictures--

      [​IMG]

      [​IMG]

      As far as the ignition lock goes, I will be the first to admit I do not know what I am doing here--how does it come out? I am very intimidated by the stupid PATS ring and stuff there--

      I could use a little advice please.
       
    8. NICE59FORDF100

      NICE59FORDF100 Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Unfortunatly, the internet here at work is preventing me from viewing the pictures you posted, but when I get home tonight, I will look at a spart steering column we have and compare to yours
       
    9. Turdle

      Turdle Check it out Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Thanks Russell
      In the meantime, I called Ford for an ignition lock. What they have "includes all parts to rebuild lock and allow use of present key" for $102. It is in stock.

      It's about the only option as I can see it, and the girls ( my wife car pools) can pick it up on the way home since the dealer is right up the road from her office.

      I called another parts store, however what they have is a new lock which includes new pats keys, so, the truck has to be scanned at the dealer ( or locksmith) to make it work. I am certain the 60.00 part plus extra hassle will be more $$$
       
    10. Turdle

      Turdle Check it out Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=336869

      quote from that thread


      So, if I have 2 keys now I can make a new lock work with 2 new keys?
       
    11. Turdle

      Turdle Check it out Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Like I said, I don't know what I am doing.

      Turn key to on, push tab ( little silver ball in this picture) and voila.

      [​IMG]



      Oh, Houston, we have a problem

      [​IMG]
       
    12. NICE59FORDF100

      NICE59FORDF100 Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      If it is the key lock cylinder, I would go with the ford kit because even though you are spending an extra 40 bucks on the set, you A) dont have to re-key all the doors, and B) if the programming doesnt take with the new set of keys, the pats system MIGHT disable all keys, thus you would need the scanner from ford or a locksmith to relearn the keys. Granted, I do work at a dealer, but i've seen the key kits they sale for this exact issue, and its great quality and a genuine ford part...im kinda partial to those lol
       
    13. Turdle

      Turdle Check it out Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Thanks Russell
      That works for 2 reasons--
      1, I can quit looking, and B, I don't have to call my wife again. :D


      Thread moved to stock 2nd gen section.
       
    14. Turdle

      Turdle Check it out Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      [​IMG]

      Nope, it is not just a box. Inside are tumblers-a new lock, a tube of grease and some tiny little balls, even tinier little itty bitty springs. I better read the paper first. I have no flippin clue what to do with this stuff. :eek:

      [​IMG]

      I can see the part to fix the broken one, just can't get my head around how all the little thingys fit inside--
       
    15. budwich

      budwich Well-Known Member

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      I believe those "tiny little balls" are not yours yet may be after you try this... :) anyways, those balls and springs are part of the tumbler "set", I think, that way you are able to set up ANY combination that your key requires and hence you don't have to "re-key"... if I understood your earlier post. Normally, a locksmith would disassemble the "tumbler" to set it up for an existing key. I had my lift get lock replaced cause of "crud"... the lock body was salvageable but the smith has to used "kit" of "tiny things" to rebuild / make the "key combination". Good luck... they appear to be quite a bit of fun to play with.
       
    16. NICE59FORDF100

      NICE59FORDF100 Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Agreed with the top post, when ford techs have to rekey a cylinder, they match the old tumblers with the news ones and rekey the new cylinder to match that of the old one. only takes about thirty minutes, then you have a brand new cylinder for your keys!
       
    17. Turdle

      Turdle Check it out Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Heck, I spent 30 minutes just trying to get the old cylinder apart to do just that--no luck.

      So, I measured the cuts, got out my Little Orphan Annie decoder ring and cross referenced the cut depths, matching them to the Ford Code for that depth.

      And, whatdoyaknow?

      [​IMG]

      ^^tumblers in

      Old key in new lock--whoop the friggin hoo haw!!!!!

      [​IMG]
       
    18. NICE59FORDF100

      NICE59FORDF100 Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      See? Totally simple :)
       
    19. Turdle

      Turdle Check it out Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Well, nobody told me there would be math involved. That almost put it over the edge.

      Actually, it wasn't all that bad, now that it is done. I know a little more than I knew when I woke up.
       
    20. Turdle

      Turdle Check it out Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Nice time now to find out what the 3rd little hole in the lower steering column trim is for. After lowering the column:(:(

      Didn't need to go to all that effort.

      stick a long skinny something in there and push inward, the ignition lock pops right out without tools.
       
    21. BrooklynBay

      BrooklynBay Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      I wonder if Rock Auto sells this kit? I know that it wasn't an option since it will take a week for it to come in the mail. I'm just wondering about the price difference.

      One time I tried to repair an expensive padlock, and the pins & springs shot all over the place. This was the last time that I've attempted to open a lock cylinder. The basic concept isn't hard, it's just that there are many different length pins that have to be matched to the key. These parts are very small, and hard to grab. Did you take a picture of the process of setting up the pins with the springs?
       
    22. Turdle

      Turdle Check it out Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      I did not.

      There are 7 tumblers and springs you have to place, 4 on top 3 on bottom. The spring goes into a round slot, and the tumbler slides down to "lock" into position. The even coded slots are on the top, odds on the bottom. Code slot 1 is ignored.

      Then once you slide it all together a spring is dropped into another hole, and the ball is placed onto it. Place the lock tab back on the spring, give the cylinder a twist and the detent ball seats. The instructions say to twist clockwise, but you have to go counterclockwise when seating the ball. There were extra springs and an extra ball in the kit for fumbles.
       
    23. NICE59FORDF100

      NICE59FORDF100 Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Glad you got it working bud! Is it installed in the truck now? How does it feel?
       
    24. Turdle

      Turdle Check it out Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      It seems just fine. Back to normal--;)
       
    25. albi1cnobi1

      albi1cnobi1 Elite Mountaineer Elite Explorer

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      Rockauto has the genuine Motorcraft part, same exact part number for $54.79. I know it wasn't an option for turdle, but just in case anyone else may need one.
       
    26. CDW6212R

      CDW6212R Elite Explorer

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      I'm glad that you got it figured out Jon. I learned about most of that when I paid a locksmith $40 to come to me and "rebuild" two cylinders. I bought a new door cylinder and a used 95-97 hatch cylinder, and then paid to have them built to work with the keys I had.

      I forgot how the cylinders were opened up to get to the tumblers etc.

      Good work.
       

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