Jon And Sheri's Vitamin D Wagon | Page 6 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Jon And Sheri's Vitamin D Wagon

As she sits now,
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But it didn't start out like this.




We returned from our trip to Colorado Sept 2009 to find this waiting in the yard.

It needs a few little sumthuns--but it is a great start I do think.
Here is where we begin to take over the work started by trukmajik and dejello



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updated pics ^^^^^how it was when I got it

Now here is how it looks as of 4-1-2010

got the wheels all shiny!

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and as of 8-5-2010

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with swaybar^^^

without sway bar

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revised shock towers and more flex-Big thanks to Dkchrist for coming over to weld em in. I owe him big time!!

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With a top

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LED rock lights

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Jon,

You and Mountaineers/Explorers just don't get along. :(
 



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so ummm what did you use to plug the holes if you removed the Spark Plugs?
 






Not spinning over well doesnt sound good???
 






drop the oil pan ,see if there is water in it,
 






so ummm what did you use to plug the holes if you removed the Spark Plugs?

I'm pretty sure the plugs were in when it got power washed. Sounds to me, the plugs were removed the following day before the manual turning of the engine to avoid any compression, and let it free spin.


I have been known to be wrong in the past though:rolleyes:
 






Sorry to hear Jon. You always seem to find ways out of these pickles. I hope this latest setback is no exception.

Good luck!
 












I'm pretty sure the plugs were in when it got power washed. Sounds to me, the plugs were removed the following day before the manual turning of the engine to avoid any compression, and let it free spin.


I have been known to be wrong in the past though:rolleyes:

ding ding we have a winner!!

I got the engine from another member-funny thing is, it ran fine when he drove the truck here. Maybe the last burnout before the swap did it in? :D
Or. maybe it sat to long with no oil?



Anyway, the deal is all worked out, and I am now looking for another OHV engine.
 






I'm pretty sure the plugs were in when it got power washed. Sounds to me, the plugs were removed the following day before the manual turning of the engine to avoid any compression, and let it free spin.


I have been known to be wrong in the past though:rolleyes:

Nope this time you are right. Had to reread his post like 5 times before i got it

Jon kinda worded it in a weird way i guess :dunno:
 






Spin it over and have a look see at those main bearings. A little oil soaking might free them up. If there is rust, check for pits, and such. Might be able to salvage it with some new bearings and a good cleaning of the crank. Just have to hope the rest of the engine is not rusted up. ie...piston rings, and rod bearings.
 






O-man thats sucko, I just happen to know where another engine is, at :)
 












Nooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo!
 






you've probably already tried this but have you tried spraying/pouring some oil in the combustion chambers?
 






you've probably already tried this but have you tried spraying/pouring some oil in the combustion chambers?

No
not yet. It is bound so tight I can feel the crank bolt stretching when I go clockwise, and it loosens when I try to back off. I will spray some pb blaster in the spark plug holes and try again in the am.

I have a question though.

Could the block be binding due to being supported only by the rear?

The top 2 transmission bolts--looks like the cam bearing is deep inside there? If I used these for the engine stand mount, and went in too far could this be the issue?

The bolts I am using to support the engine on the stand are old head bolts from a mystique, and I had to use several large shim washers for depth. That is why I ask.
The engine is supported by the holes that used to have dowels, and the top 2 trans mount holes. Is this proper?
 






Ok, Maniak was on the chat and he suggested I remove the tension from the rocker arm bars, maybe the camshaft is dry and dragging me down.

I removed them and still, the engine will not budge..hmm
I removed the lower intake manifold, expecting to see a jammed bolt or something dropped in there--nope

I removed the pushrods, then the heads. I saw no foreign devices in the chambers. I did however observe quite a bit of carbon buildup.

With the heads removed the engine spins like silk.

OK now, WTF?

I am having a hard time believing a little carbon buildup would lock this thing so tight I could snap the crank bolt. I wonder if the block was under too much stress from the weight?

I did not do the sling test like I should have--relieving the weight with the cherry picker while assembled , then trying to spin it.

Anyway, guess I will look for some heads to throw on here
 






Man how did I miss this thread.so with the heads off it spins fine?do you still have the cam and timing chain on?did you try spinning it with the heads on and no pushrods or rockers?I couldn't see how just the heads would cause it not to spin.did you take the lifters out yet?o and that truck is freaking cool!!
 






Maybe that ghost that haunts your house is playin games with you man.

Never did any burnouts with that engine. Never could with the auto and tires. :)

I'm sorry it's givin you crap man. I don't get how any amount of water could sieze it when the engine you just removed PULLED THE THING INTO THE DRIVEWAY after 2years of mocha oil and no running.

I pulled that damn engine not 6 months ago. I had no doubts it would run great for you. This just sucks
 






Maybe that ghost that haunts your house is playin games with you man.

Never did any burnouts with that engine. Never could with the auto and tires. :)

I'm sorry it's givin you crap man. I don't get how any amount of water could sieze it when the engine you just removed PULLED THE THING INTO THE DRIVEWAY after 2years of mocha oil and no running.

I pulled that damn engine not 6 months ago. I had no doubts it would run great for you. This just sucks

Seth,

Jon's house isn't hauted. It's cursed :D Then to think I'm heading down late spring early summer 2010 to do Torque Monsters on my Mounty.
 



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Jon, Just FYI I had a 5.0L I could not for the life of me get to spin over by hand...

work it back and forth, some penetrating oil in the cylinders for a few days, a LONG breaker bar with 3/4" drive, and BLAMO I got it to spin... it was a rust ring

that 5.0L runs perfect to this day

I did remove the transmission from the engine in order to get it to bust loose, no tension on the crankshaft no torque converter, nothing, but it did end up being a rust ring, I guess it just sat so long in the junk yard
 






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