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Just replaced the Blend Door Actuator on my Gen IV

Discussion in 'Stock 2006 -2010 Explorers' started by edwx, November 20, 2010.


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    1. IvanSvea

      IvanSvea New Member

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      City, State:
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      Spent the better part of an hour under the passenger dash, no blend door actuator visible in all the stuff under there. Going to have to watch some YouTube videos to see if I can locate it.

      Any suggestions where it is for the passenger heat/cold. Is it in the center on the heater plenum or over the passenger foot well?
       
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    3. benman

      benman New Member

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      The diagram below shows where the blend doors (circled) are in your vehicle. They are behind the plastic ducts (lines pointing), which you'll have to remove to see the blend door (even then it takes some looking). Without the diagram, I'm not sure I would have found them either.

      My experience, which is essentially the same vehicle as yours (certainly same HVAC setup), is in my post further up on this page.

      I can't say, but I suppose your problem might be the blend door, even though your symptoms are opposite. Maybe the door is stuck open? Just guessing.

      [​IMG]
       
    4. IvanSvea

      IvanSvea New Member

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      Thanks benman, your diagram helped. That and a You Tube of a actuator relacement in a Mountaineer with the dual climate system.

      Took longer than planned but I got it repaced. Local Ford dealer had the right one in stock (confirmed by VIN) $75.00 Got all the screws out and back in after removing the passenger kick pannel and the glove box, then the lower heater duct. Moved a big trunk of wiring harness to get to the screws. Worst part was getting the shaft ligned back up with the blend door opening.

      Again thanks to this forum for saving me lots of time and extra expense.
       
    5. benman

      benman New Member

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      Yes, getting the shaft lined up was difficult. So did that fix your problem? For others who are interested, the video is at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1IjMiHRzpDY. I guess the door was above the plastic duct -- I remembered having to remove it for the work anyway.

      What did you use to get to that one screw that's behind a metal support?

      The part is only $40 on Amazon. I bought another for when the driver's side goes, which from some creaking I've been hearing, may have happened already. AC air is fine though, so, you know, mañana.
       
    6. ggomez2

      ggomez2 New Member

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      2007 Ford Explorer EB 4.6
      Hello!
      Has anyone had to replace the rear blend door motors? Ive got an 07 Explorer and am only getting air to the floor. I cannot get air to the overhead vents. Any diagrams or tips would be great. All i've seen in write ups and youtube videos are for prior gen Explorers and Expeditions; i know that this gen has the hvac on the driver side which is different than prior years. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Bad enough I've got to deal with dual climate control blend door replacement at same time as well... oh well
       
    7. ttbit

      ttbit Active Member

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      My 2007 ST Dual Auto Climate is experiencing strange temp changes on the passenger side. It will start off cold (as it needs to be at 90 degrees outside) but then sometimes after 5 minutes or 30 minutes of driving, the passenger side goes hot. It then will sometimes go back to cold. Does it sound like the passenger side blend door actuator, or could it be a computer glitch? I don't hear clicking, but then again, in the Winter, it seemed to make some funky noises now and then.
       
    8. dew777

      dew777 New Member

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      I have a quick question for those of you with a 2006 Explorer (dual air / manual controls): WHERE is the Blend-door/actuator for the rear air? My problem is that when I send the A/C out through the rear-floor vents it's very cold, but if I send it through the over-head/rear vents it's sort of warm. . .

      Would that mean a rear blend door problem?

      Most of the instructions I've seen say the blend door is under the dash but my front air works great. It's the rear (and only over-head/rear) that is too warm. :mad:

      Thanks in advance!
       
    9. jpjask

      jpjask New Member

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      I'm about to do mine if you could message me the greatly appreciated please John 2007 Ford Explorer XLT over 4.6 L
       
    10. wharriso

      wharriso Elite Explorer

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      ...I heard that banging noise on Monday and I immediately knew what the problem was. I found the blend door actuator on Amazon for $59.00. I installed the new part and everything is working fine now, but I have 1 problem... After putting everything back together I realized that I forgot to install that stupid foam washer. How important is that foam washer?
       
    11. Ferrara77

      Ferrara77 New Member

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      i just changed mine it was blowing cold and clicking but now it only blows heat and wont blow cold ... is there some specific way to install the actuator? should i have left it in a certain position? 09 explorer xlt
       
    12. wheelz22

      wheelz22 New Member

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      When I replaced my actuator this past Spring I plugged it in and watched it operate (rotate back and forth in both directions) in my hand before installing it (cold to hot....and hot to cold)....then I made sure that it was bottomed out in the cold position before unplugging the electricity as well as making sure the the blend door being in the cold position before I bolted it in place. Don't know if that was necessary before doing the job....but figured it couldn't hurt.
       
    13. ggomez2

      ggomez2 New Member

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      +1 on this.. definitely what I did.

       
    14. Ferrara77

      Ferrara77 New Member

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      guess i will be pulling it out again thankfully i didnt put the panels back on since half of my instrument cluster bulbs were already blown out too
       

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    15. wharriso

      wharriso Elite Explorer

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      When I changed mine, I forgot to turn the heat adjuster dial down so I had to do the blind hunt for the position where the actuator stem slid into place. Once I found the right position, I had to turn it so the screw holes lined up. I am thinking that maybe you somehow forced it in position so that its not lined up properly.
       
    16. chapsdeva

      chapsdeva Active Member

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      My actuator is making the clicking sound so I bought the part on Amazon. Went to put it in and lo and behold I don't have the tools needed (Don't have enough extensions to get to the top bolt or the deep 10mm socket to get the lower two support bolts off. Called my older brother and of course he has them and is giving me a bunch of sh!t as usual. Of course I could buy the required bits, but this give my bro and I an excuse to get together this weekend in the man cave with a couple of cold ones and turn some wrenches!
       
    17. ggomez2

      ggomez2 New Member

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      Honestly if you are referring to the bolt that is highest up from floor pan, loosen the other two and rip that actuator out. There's numerous references in this thread that refer to that bolt being a mofo to get to.

      That is how I replaced my passenger side actuator and have had no issues with the newly installed on.
       
    18. wheelz22

      wheelz22 New Member

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      I finally got around to doing the above mentioned blend door motor "testing" today....and I think I discovered something that may be helpful. I started by going for a ride running an errand and fully warming up the engine.....today it was about 38-40F in the NYC metro area when I was working on it. Then with the temp selector wheel left remaining in the full hot position, I shut it off and pulled the screws that hold the blend motor in place...but DID NOT remove the motor. It turns out, I could rotate the motor housing (with my hand) just a slight bit more clockwise to "move/actuate" the blend door even further to the full hot position. It wasn't much movement (maybe 1/4 inch or so), but is seems to have made quite a difference. So now, the 3 eyelets of the blend door motor no longer line up with the screw holes in the heater box that hold it in place.....so I very securely duct taped the motor in that place using no screws. I then grabbed my automotive thermometer probe and checked the floor and panel vents with the blower in position # 3 and the engine fully hot. I got 140F out of the floor and 133F out of the panel vents. As I said, the ambient temp today was 38-40F....and the cabin was piping hot....more heat than I would need at blower setting #3 . So it turns out that the new motor does not quite rotate the blend door 100% to the hot.....and probably not 100% to the full cold either in the summer. I'd say maybe the motor achieves 95% of the travel range of the blend door. So.....having gone thru December and early January already, I could tell that the heating was not going to be good enough for the winter....and that's what prompted me to get in gear with doing this "test" today. The only thing I messed up with is not getting "before" modification temp readings. But I'll know in the next two days or so if this little mod makes a difference with the overnight lows being 20-24F...because on days with temps around 30F my feet have been cold while driving.

      Anyone happen to know roughly what temps should blow out of automotive vents in the full hot position on a 40 degree day ? I know there are general charts for AC temps that take into account summer temps and humidity, but I've not seen one for winter temps and heating.
       
    19. wkillian

      wkillian New Member

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      Finished the job in my 2010 Explorer, it wasn't hard, just a pain in the butt like any job under or behind the dash. The part was $103 w/tax in San Luis Obispo, CA, our stealership is rip-off. God only knows how much I saved in labor costs. Thanks to all above for their postings.
       
    20. cfchurchill89

      cfchurchill89 New Member

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      Seeing as so many in this thread have some experience with diagnosing climate control problems... I've got an '08 Explorer Limited, dual digital climate control and rear manual climate control with no rear a/c. I don't have a clicking noise, but when I have the temp set to anything under 32C (highest setting), the lower vent will blow the correct temp, but the upper vents (either face vents or defrost vents) will only blow cool air. Don't think it's the actuator. Is there a switch?
       
    21. Topflightamp

      Topflightamp New Member

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      Hi y'all, found great videos on this showing what to look out for, I opted for OEM part from the dealership. It was about $87. One thing I'd like to mention that was a little unexpected was when you remove the old part, leave the setting where it's at so that when you're ready to plug the new one in, the key will line up exactly where you left the old one. The new one can't be turned unless power is applied. That means you will have to plug in the new one temporary, turn the instrument key, then the shaft will go to the same position as the old one. Turn the key off. Now you're ready to begin installing the new one. Hope that made sense.
       
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    22. naiku

      naiku Active Member

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      Replaced the passenger blend door in our 2008 about 3 weeks ago, was a huge pain in the ass, the bottom 2 screws were not so bad, but the top one was a giant headache. When I finally got it out I knew I was never going to get the screw back in on the new one, so just broke that tab off. Lining the shaft up was then another headache, but once that was done those bottom 2 screws went in easily enough and everything is good.
       
    23. tripplec

      tripplec Active Member

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      Sound like it was never meant to fail. Can't be reinstalled...
       

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