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Location of Parklamps Relay in Dash Relay Module.

Discussion in 'Stock 1995 - 2001 Explorers' started by Shoboshi, April 7, 2010.

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    1. Shoboshi

      Shoboshi New Member

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      Hi All,

      I am trying to figure out the location of the "Parklamps Relay" or "Parking lights Relay" in the Dash Relay Module in my '99 Explorer XLT The module contains 7 relays, one big one on the bottom and 6 smaller ones above, 3 on the left and 3 on the right.

      Thank you.
       
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    3. Flick75

      Flick75 New Member

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      If you have your owners manual, it'll tell you where they're out. Otherwise you can pick a Chilton manual at your local auto store for about $20 or so. Or you can wait for someone to chime in with the answer. Cheers :chug::chug:
       
    4. Electrohacker

      Electrohacker Well-Known Member

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      stock manual... NOPE

      Chiltons... NOPE

      any other brilliant ideas?
       
    5. Shoboshi

      Shoboshi New Member

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      Update.

      I checked all the manuals to no avail. So I pulled one relay at a time untill I isolated the right one. Unfortunately my problem still exists. :frustrate Back to the drawing board.
       
    6. Flick75

      Flick75 New Member

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      No reason for you to be an A-HOLE hacker.
       
    7. Bill Kemp

      Bill Kemp Elite Moderator Emeritus Moderator Emeritus

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      Quite simple. Have a helper turn on the lights while you are under the hood listening to &/or feeling the relays to see which one activates.
      Not a brilliant idea Ehacker, so you may be able to understand it.
      Hope this helps Shoboshi.
       
    8. budwich

      budwich Well-Known Member

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      actually... maybe if you tell us what your problem is we might be more help... maybe...
       
    9. Electrohacker

      Electrohacker Well-Known Member

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      I wasnt trying to be an ass, but I have been asking this question on and off for years now and have not once got an answer
       
    10. Flick75

      Flick75 New Member

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      My apologies then. This is the internet and it's hard to tell frustration from being an a-hole with a statement like that.
       
    11. gijoecam

      gijoecam Village Idiot Elite Explorer

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      Actually, if you open your owner's manual to page 391, you'll find the relay locations for the instrument panel relay module there.

      Unless that's not the relay you're looking for... ?

      Care to tell us the rest of the story? What's it doing (or not doing) and what can we do to help?

      Also, I've got an electronics project for ya'... PM me for the details...
       
    12. Shoboshi

      Shoboshi New Member

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      Okay, here is what I have. My front amber, and rear running lights will not go out. Even with the key out of the ignition and the delay switch on the rearview mirror in the off position, and the Headlight switch turned off.

      So far what I have been told is that there are only three things that are supposed to be "continuous on". Parklamps relay, Headlight switch, and Anti-theft module. Sound right? I have replaced the Parklamps Relay, but the prob. still exists. I am thinking about just replacing the Headlight switch. $23 bucks is not too bad. Does anyone know where the Anti-theft Module is?

      Thanks for all the help so far.
       
    13. budwich

      budwich Well-Known Member

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      ok... that helps but just replacing parts doesn't necessarily help. Get a meter and do some testing / checks... that will likely help you solve your problem faster. As indicated by another post, when you replaced / pulled the park lamp relay, did you notice if your lamps went out???? If they didn't, then it is unlikely that its your problem especially with it pulled out.

      Having said that, the headlight switch is a good candidate.
       
    14. Shoboshi

      Shoboshi New Member

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      Yes the lights went out when the Parklamp relay was pulled. Crap, sorry I totally spaced this. Let me back up. Last Sat. I lost my running lights, my dash lights and fog lamps. The #11 fuse under the hood(Parklamp and Mainlight Switch) was blown, so I replaced it. I got all my lights back, but now the amber and rear running lights remain on.
       
      Last edited: April 9, 2010
    15. budwich

      budwich Well-Known Member

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      well that's some "nice info".... :) ... anyways, you can solve your problem relatively fast with a meter to check for voltage coming into the park lamp relay (since you now know which it is) on the various pins / wires.... OR.... did the relay "click" when you were removing it...? that would kind of indicate that it was operated..... which shouldn't be if you have everything turned off as it should be.... OR you can check for voltage leaving the light switch when the switch is off... that would indicate a bad switch.
       
    16. Shoboshi

      Shoboshi New Member

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      Update

      I am totally confused. I went out to check the relays with power to them. When I did it before I would disconnect the battery, pull a relay then reconnect the battery. This time, with everything in the off position, Headlight switch, Headlight delay switch(rearview mirror) and running lights still on, I removed each relay one at a time, except the big one...and the damn running lights never went out.:mad: I did this two times-they never went out.

      Just to make sure that I have the right relays? The module of relays under the dash to the right of the steering column, there are 7 relays, a big one, and 6 smaller ones above, three to the right and three to the left. The Parklamp relay is the middle one on the right, with the Dimmer relay just above it.

      Another interesting tidbit, with the (RL)running lights still on I turned the Headlight switch on, to the first position, the RL got brighter, then back to off and they would dim again.

      Hey admin, do you have an icon that pulls its hair out.:D

      The probes on my tester are to big to fit in the relay slots.

      Is it beerthirty yet? Wait, it's Friday, it's been beerthirty for three hours.
       
    17. budwich

      budwich Well-Known Member

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      well your "confusion" is "pandemic"... yikes.... I can't help much with any confusion about the park lamp relay cause I only have 96 drawing and based on your "description", the modules don't match (96 has 4 across and 2 plus a "big one"). Anyways, probably doesn't matter much (96 versus 99) in terms of operation as they are likely the same / similar. Having said that, you do need to be sure that you have found the park lamp relay and you need to be sure that when you pull it, your lights go OUT. BUT, I suspect that your "confusion" has spread to your vehicle... :)

      Anyways, back up with your testing. I wouldn't worry about disconnecting your battery to pull a relay unless you are very shaky. Next pull each relay until you can make the lights goes out (ie. start with relay that you think is your park lamp relay and keep pulling, don't replace any). Hopefully, the truck will get "unconfused" and the lights will go out. Having said that, we have seen "confusion" in this area before both from trucks and their owners... :) Ultimately a "few" solved the "confusion" by spotting a "few melted wires"... :-( in and around the module area / light switch..... AND since you have indicated that a "blown fuse" had precipitated this "event"... it is a likely possibility at this point.... so if your lights don't go out and you are holding all the relays in your hand... you need to then focus on melted / touching wiring. Confusion reigns supreme :) good luck.

      Oh... measuring for voltage... get a stick pin and stick it in the socket contact points or "gently" pierce the wire insultation and then touch your meter probes to the "mini probe".
       
      Last edited: April 9, 2010
    18. Vargas

      Vargas Active Member

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      Shoboshi,

      Don't know where in WA you are at, but if in Seattle area, I'll help you sort it out. Weather supposed to be OK this weekend, and I have no major projects planned. I have a '00 that can't be too different from yours.
       
    19. 2000merc

      2000merc New Member

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      Hello All,
      Ok this is kind of strange but I seem to have the same issue. Easter Sunday got out of my 2000 Mountaineer and noticed that the headlights were still on. The fastest fix was to just pull negative terminal off. Well I have been trouble shooting it now off and on to no avail. My symptoms are interior fuse 11, 27 and 36 all blow when I turn the ignition on which tells me I have a short to ground but have not been able to isolate as of yet. I have the HVAC, Radio, Dimmer Module, Headlight Switch all disconnected. I purchased a wiring manual and hope it comes early next week. In the meantime if I find something I will let you Know.
       
    20. Vargas

      Vargas Active Member

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      Very odd that all three fuses blow. This suggests to me that a harness has been damaged, or that there is a major failure that will be easy to recognize, like a melted or burned connector. A simple circuit failure will take out one (short to ground or overload) or two fuses at most (crossed circuits whose combined draw exceeds either fuse's rating). Sudden onset of three circuit failures seems more likely to be caused by a harness pinched during recent work or maybe examine the backside of the fuse panel for a foreign metallic object.

      I don't know how closely your Mountaineer matches the wiring diagrams in my Haynes manual. What does your owners manual say about each of those fuses? My manual says #11 is switched power (ignition on) that is used for several indicator lights on the cluster (4x4, OD, CC) and also for dash illumination. It says #27 is a constant (always hot) circuit that supplies power to interior lights. I can't find a reference to #36. It is troublesome that the constant power circuit is fine until the ignition is switched on.
       
    21. 2000merc

      2000merc New Member

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      Yes I found it kind of odd to have three circuits involved as well. Here is a breakdown of events. I found out that if I pull fuse #11 out of the power distrubution box that my headlights and parklamps will go out. The problem is that fuse #11 pops on the internal fuse box which takes out all of the instrument clusters gauges but not the informational indicators like turn signals and so on. Fuse #36 also powers the rearview mirror thru the light green/yellow wire. Fuse #27 is for backup lamps. Now the odd thing is that my son said everytime I thru a fuse in #11 the backup lights came on until the fuse blew. I believe that all 3 fuses some how are entangled to complete the autolamp function on the mountaineer. Anyway frustration set in and I decided to throw in a fuse with greater amperage. Result wire color red/yellow burned up behind dash aft of internal fuse box. I no not a great Idea. So now in process of pulling out dash to get access to repair and maybe find the root of this evil.
       
    22. Vargas

      Vargas Active Member

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      2000merc -

      Power from the backup lights (fuse #27) is used to override the automatic rear view mirror. If autodim function is powered by fuse #36, then the the mirror dim control is the common point where the circuits meet. Similarly, the autolamp control switch is on the mirror (at least is on my Ex, guessing Mounty is same). Autolamp circuit ties to headlights/parklights/dashlights (regardless of position of headlight switch). As backup lights are not related to any other lighting circuit, I'd guess the problem is in the harness to the mirror. Has anything happened in recent timeframe that would have disturbed any of the components? Cleaned the inside of the windshield and may have bumped the exposed cable going to the mirror? I don't have any diagrams showing the autolamp or mirror wiring, so I can't say anything specific there, but if there are any control relays associated with these options, I'd consider them suspect until proven otherwise.
       
    23. budwich

      budwich Well-Known Member

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      It was a "great idea"... you at least "identified" where your wiring "issue" was.... saves a lot of "looking"... but it might not have saved you any money... :) depending how bad the "meltdown" was. good luck... its not fun "digging" around the dash for wiring issues.
       
    24. 2000merc

      2000merc New Member

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      Anyone have a step by step procedure for removing the dash. If I can get this off I can repair the wire and possibly find the fault. The wire that got burnt can be spliced if you can fit in the dash plus I would want to replace as much of that wire as possible. Any help would be appreciated.
       
    25. 2000merc

      2000merc New Member

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      Ok All,
      I finally put the vehicle down until it got repaired. I got the dash pulled far enough to were I could gain access to the connector for the autolamp circuit(connector for all overhead console wires) which runs up the drivers windshield post. I ohm'd all pins and found that the majority were grounded out. I dropped the headliner and disconnected the entire harness. The fault was were the harness runs from the overhead console to the mirror. The harness is up against a metal plate which gets extremely HOT when the sun is beating on the roof. I guess over the years the heat ate the wire harness insulation. When the harness was pulled away and turned over there was exposed wires. Anyway I repaired all the wires that go to the mirror and placed some foam insulation between the harness and the body to prevent this in the future. Everything works as it should again. Thanks for all the Help. Only bummer is that I had to pull the dash to get to that connector!
      :thumbsup:
       
    26. 2000merc

      2000merc New Member

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      Ok All,
      I finally put the vehicle down until it got repaired. I got the dash pulled far enough to were I could gain access to the connector for the autolamp circuit(connector for all overhead console wires) which runs up the drivers windshield post. I ohm'd all pins and found that the majority were grounded out. I dropped the headliner and disconnected the entire harness. The fault was were the harness runs from the overhead console to the mirror. The harness is up against a metal plate which gets extremely HOT when the sun is beating on the roof. I guess over the years the heat ate the wire harness insulation. When the harness was pulled away and turned over there was exposed wires. Anyway I repaired all the wires that go to the mirror and placed some foam insulation between the harness and the body to prevent this in the future. Everything works as it should again. Thanks for all the Help. Only bummer is that I had to pull the dash to get to that connector!
      :thumbsup:
       

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