Lower Ball Joint Replacement How To (lots of Pictures)

[SailorKane]

I know this information on this thread is old, and has been used by many people for several years. However, I just did my upper control arms and lower ball joints and found this information SO informative. Without these photos and information, I would not have tried the job. With it, a $1400 ball joint job became just $200 for parts and probably $50 for some tools, sockets, etc. Just fantastic. The left side took a day and a half. The right side took less than 3 hours. "Once you have done it, you know how to do it."

So I thank the alien gurus from the previous civilization (circa 2007) who published this fantastic information for us future archeologists to find. And strongly recommend to others that, if I can do it, anyone can.

Peace and fair winds. Mark.

PS: I put the same posting on the upper control arms, since I did both.

 

[Todd R]

Tortion bar

I have used this thread to do my lower ball joint on the driver’s side. The information was great. That job went smooth, however when I went to do the passenger side and after removing the c clip on the BJ it just fell out. The hole is too rounded for the new one. I saw where someone else had a shop weld on a new one but that is not an option for me. I thought Moog mad an oversized one so I ordered that but it is taller not wider. So I now have a lower control arm. it seems the one ting this very helpful thread does not cover is removal of the torsion rod. I have done a search but being new here I may have either missed any information or not looked in the right spot. Any help or hints on how to proceed or direction to another thread would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks again for all the help, Todd

 

[gavin]

I have used this thread to do my lower ball joint on the driver’s side. The information was great. That job went smooth, however when I went to do the passenger side and after removing the c clip on the BJ it just fell out. The hole is too rounded for the new one. I saw where someone else had a shop weld on a new one but that is not an option for me. I thought Moog mad an oversized one so I ordered that but it is taller not wider. So I now have a lower control arm. it seems the one ting this very helpful thread does not cover is removal of the torsion rod. I have done a search but being new here I may have either missed any information or not looked in the right spot. Any help or hints on how to proceed or direction to another thread would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks again for all the help, Todd

I don't believe I've seen any threads on it, but it is very simple.
remove torsion bar adjuster bolt.

make a mark on both the LCA and torsion bar; then transfer this mark to the new LCA. This will allow you to install the new LCA with the same "alignment" as the old one.

remove LCA.

When I replaced my LCA's, I did not completely remove the adjuster tab and all that stuff on the bar; only the adjuster bolt, then removed the LCA.

 

[Todd R]

I don't believe I've seen any threads on it, but it is very simple.
remove torsion bar adjuster bolt.

make a mark on both the LCA and torsion bar; then transfer this mark to the new LCA. This will allow you to install the new LCA with the same "alignment" as the old one.

remove LCA.

When I replaced my LCA's, I did not completely remove the adjuster tab and all that stuff on the bar; only the adjuster bolt, then removed the LCA.

Thank gavin, I guess it is starting to make sense. I do need a heavy two prong puller though, or is there a way around that?

P.S. My son will be moving to Alaska in November he will be stationed at fort wainright.(sp?)

 

[gavin]

Thank gavin, I guess it is starting to make sense. I do need a heavy two prong puller though, or is there a way around that?

P.S. My son will be moving to Alaska in November he will be stationed at fort wainright.(sp?)

no, no puller of any sort needed.

I would advise getting some penetrant and liberally spraying where the bar inserts into the LCA. It can rust up and could possibly be a pita to remove.

You won't need a puller, since you will not be removing the torsion bar; that would only be necessary if you were wanting to remove the piece the adjuster bolt threads through, which you would do if you were wanting to completely remove the bar.

Ft Wainwright would be up north around Fairbanks and North Pole. Hope he likes the cold, or can atleast handle it! :

 

[Todd R]

Looking at the LCA I have it looks like I have to remove the tortion bar. I will go out and look again in a bit.http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...&model=Explorer&vi=1119653&pt=C0317&ppt=C0106 If this link works this is the one I have.

He grew up here in Wisconsin and has spent alot of time in Minnesota. We live on a farm on a ridge with a lot of wind. he is used to cold wind chill factors, but the average temp up there is colder. He is looking forward to it after spending his summer in Georgia and Alabama.

Thanks again for the input, Todd

 

[gavin]

Looking at the LCA I have it looks like I have to remove the tortion bar. I will go out and look again in a bit.http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...&model=Explorer&vi=1119653&pt=C0317&ppt=C0106 If this link works this is the one I have.

He grew up here in Wisconsin and has spent alot of time in Minnesota. We live on a farm on a ridge with a lot of wind. he is used to cold wind chill factors, but the average temp up there is colder. He is looking forward to it after spending his summer in Georgia and Alabama.

Thanks again for the input, Todd

nope
once you release the preload by removing the adjuster bolt and removing the 2 bolts for the LCA, the bar will "wobble" and will (should) drop down far enough you can pull the LCA off.

the bar will definitely not stay parallel when the LCA is unbolted.

and FYI, Fairbanks winters can get to around -60*F before wind-chill! storlied lives up there.

 

[Todd R]

nope
once you release the preload by removing the adjuster bolt and removing the 2 bolts for the LCA, the bar will "wobble" and will (should) drop down far enough you can pull the LCA off.

the bar will definitely not stay parallel when the LCA is unbolted.

and FYI, Fairbanks winters can get to around -60*F before wind-chill! storlied lives up there.

THANKS ALOT, I thought the whole thing had to come off, and I was dreading it. That would also explain why there was no info on how to remove it.

Yip 60 below is colder than we get and he knows it. The coldest I have seen was -43 and I was living in a tent at the time. If he has my blood he will be fine up there. Much better than where he gets to spend his summer next year.

Thanks again, I will let you know how it goes, Todd

 

[storlied]

FYI -40 below is the typical average but we do have our stretches of -50 to -60 below.
Fairbanks sucks btw, too small n boring. Hope he can stay outta trouble here. =P

 

[WatchThis!!]

Thanks for the post. I changed out both front lowers yesterday at the auto center here on post. I've never even changed my own oil before, and the pictures and step by step really gave me a better idea what I was getting into.
I've already taken a look at your post for the uppers since they're next. Outstanding, thanks so much.

 

[croom9]

Just did my Uppers and Lowers over the weekend AND filmed it check it out I hope you find it helpful..... and I especially like Trailbum 's nifty little trick I would have never imagined such a thing but hey if it works have at it now i cant wait for ball joints to go on one of my other cars so i can try it!

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[fordlover3]

How do I know which lower ball joints i need, I noticed there were normal ones then oversized ones.

 

[croom9]

How do I know which lower ball joints i need, I noticed there were normal ones then oversized ones.

The parts store should give you the correct one for the options your truck has, but you can always get under there and take a some measurements and match them up at the parts store

 

[fordlover3]

The parts store should give you the correct one for the options your truck has, but you can always get under there and take a some measurements and match them up at the parts store

Thanks for the quick reply. And your video has given me the confidence to do this! Do I need an alignment after just doing the lowers?

 

[croom9]

Thanks for the quick reply. And your video has given me the confidence to do this! Do I need an alignment after just doing the lowers?

It wouldnt hurt to have it checked afterwards, but provided nothing was brutally beaten on, or bent removing them you should be fine

 

[ThePhoenix]

croom....excellent video...just please dont hang your caliper...

I dated a gilr from Bangor...she went to Kutztown. Hope it wasnt any relation

 

[gavin]

video

good video... BUT...

#1 - remove the caliper mounting bracket with caliper still attached; less steps and you won't need to worry about the caliper slide-pins getting dirty.
#2 - do NOT let your caliper hang by the brack hose!
#3 - dead-blow hammers are very nice to have; they give you a better smack than a rubber mallet, without the metal-on-metal hit.
#4 - smacking out the balljoint isn't always a good idea; it can cause the hole to become oblong or enlarged; especially if the bj starts to come out crooked. Pressing out would be preferred.

 

[Todd R]

LCA front bolt will not come out!

OK, I finally got back to this project, (replacing the lower control arm).I have everything loose, the rear bolt for the control arm is out the nut from the front is off and the bolt will spin but I can not get it to come out. I have beat the @!&$ out of it and achieved very little movement, I got my BJ press on it a little, (can't really get a good fit but I did get a lot of pressure on it) and got enough out to get a pickle bar on it. After a lot of pounding there was no movement but the bar was digging into the frame. I am running out of ideas any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Todd.

 

[gavin]

you removed the torsion bar adjuster bolt, correct?

 

[Todd R]

you removed the torsion bar adjuster bolt, correct?

Yip, everything is lose except the one bolt. (the nut is off and the bolt will spin) I think it is worn with a groove that is catching, and being a hardend bolt it just won't give. I thought about trying to cut off the head and pound it through the other way but I don't have anything I think will cut it.