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M90 rebuild (rudy)

well figured i would start a new thread.just a quick background.did the whole build on my explorer but built it using stock head gaskets and head bolts.did it really as a safety net and i just couldnt afford head studs at the time.well to say the least i blew the head gaskets off from it wile i was in the mountains on a forum trip about two years later.

i picked up a 1994 ranger,its got the 4.0 OHV and is a 5 speed 2wd.the plan is to pull the motor out of the explorer and rebuild it.

this thread will basically cover the rebuild and build up of the new ranger.it will basically end up as a street race truck.ive named it Rudy:D:D so let the fun begin.
:burnout::burnout::burnout::burnout::burnout::burnout::burnout::burnout::burnout::burnout::burnout:

UPDATE
new motor specs
BORE: 4" JE asymmetrical pistons (custom over bore)

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RODS: 6.058 Manley (longer rod)
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VALVES: IN-1.8 EX-1.5 Manley heavy duty (.150 over)
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Transmission:T5 hybrid from a 2006 Mustang and 93 Fox
HEADS: 93TM HEAVILY ported with custom brass guides and copper gaskets/O-ringed with ARP studs
CAM: 422 Comp cams with 988 springs and Toms custom lifters,push rods and 1.7 roller rockers
Complete blueprint and balanced internals
GM M90 supercharged with one 1" intercooler plates with ASP 8 rib belt conversion. .
pushing 16 lbs of boost with small shot of NOS
Running on E50
Dyno tuned by Dyno Tune Performance outa Virginia using SCT

old thread and pic
3800 M90 Build
ported and polished gm 3800 gen 2 m90
Water to air intercooled
port matched 76mm inlet and intake tube
mustang 75mm race tb
90mm maf
36lb injectors
255 fuel pump
sct 5bank dyno tuned
2.7" pulley 10lbs of boost!!;)
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and the new 1994 ranger 4.0 OHV 5 speed 2WD with 115,000 miles on it.o and i only paid $1,000 for it:shifty_ey
RUDY
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Couldn't be more interested in this. These forged stroked kits are sweet. Time to put the old ohv on the map :thumbsup:
 



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Couldn't be more interested in this. These forged stroked kits are sweet. Time to put the old ohv on the map :thumbsup:

Its not a kit or at least I won't be using a kit....its all one off and cheaper/better than the """"kit""""...;)
 






I'm curious how your going to get the power. Custom cam and completely different heads? This is going to be interesting. Even getting the boost up where it needs to be will be interesting.

Looking forward to it.
 






I'm curious how your going to get the power. Custom cam and completely different heads? This is going to be interesting. Even getting the boost up where it needs to be will be interesting.

Looking forward to it.

Pretty simple.based on previous numbers this motor in a 5 speed and 2wheel drive/stock tires""should"" be putting down very close to 300hp...I'm adding 6LB boost plus .100 larger valves and stroking the motor..based off my old numbers (hp per lb of boost) just increasing 6lbs should yield me around 80ish hp alone, throw in the fact the heads will flow WAYYY better and the motor is stroked and another 100hp ain't hard to come by.also I have a 50 shot NOS to seal the deal;)A guy made 143 hp from a 50shot on a motor with 12lbs of boost and a m62 on rps.those numbers are high but pretty close for others on boosted apps. (He made 443hp @12lbs and a 50 shot):eek::eek:

So my numbers may be slightly off but 400 is NOT out of the ball park and all the parts I'm having made Manley said are good to 700hp rating soooooo:D
 






yes, the NOS will get you there, for sure!
Are the stroker pieces coming from a sohc? I'm just curious if those pieces can be used as I keep hearing the bottom ends are extremely similar.
 






yes, the NOS will get you there, for sure!
Are the stroker pieces coming from a sohc? I'm just curious if those pieces can be used as I keep hearing the bottom ends are extremely similar.

No the rods are 6.058 for a ford falkon 4.0 turbo and the pistons are 4" with a compression height of 1.132.the valves are both .100 larger.the pistons are not one off but noone makes them with the stroke and CH I needed.I talked to Manley and they said they can change those numbers as long as it a production type of piston.all parts are coming from them.


List as of now from Manley goes
Valves $456
Pistons $480
Rods $450
For a grand total of $1386, not bad for all custom one off stuff and I asked if he could do a package deal and he said possible. They do offer "rotating assembly" deals and I would have to discuss once I fill out the paperwork and place the order.so I'm going to keep searching for a couple weeks while I save up the last little bit and place the order, they said they have a 5 week lead time now:(gives me about two months to finish the rest of the truck;)

Rods
http://www.sparktecmotorsports.com/mp-14017-6.html

There the secret is out:)
 






I gota tunnel it.I've got the metal just need to roll it.it really won't be as bad as I thought.my plan was to lower the motor and trans but after talking to others that have run the sohc pan on the ohv ran into the same problem I did in my ex.it hits the crossmember.so they had to raise the motor a 1/2" to clear like I did.so lowering the motor or trans is out:(just means bigger cowl hood.the tunnel will be next after I do finale install.

I plan to cut a blank and weld the old door.really wanted to put the new door in the bed but just wasn't worth the hassle. This will be way down the road tho, have a couple other body mods to do also before paint.

Got a bunch of parts flowing in just don't have any time to work at all:mad:if your a member over on rps I'm sure you have seen some of my secrets, dont wanna release them here yet.ill start a new thread for ""how to stroke and forged a ohv"" as soon as all the parts are done.they have a 5 week lead time, plus going to be another 2weeks before I can afford the last parts.BUT I WILL be breaking the 400 mark;) motor will be good till 700hp so don't have to worry about it.got a feeling ill be going through a lot of m5 till I can afford the racing t5

Haha yeah, you might wanna upgrade the trans quick. I like the m5 for what it is... but I'm only pushing 100ish hp through mine :D honestly I don't think 400 HP is gonna be that hard for ya. 500 might be possible :D go for it! :thumbsup:
 






Wow that's awesome. The xr6 4.0 is an amazing engine. Glad you made the creative connection between that and the ohv. Looking forward to more great info.
 






Wow that's awesome. The xr6 4.0 is an amazing engine. Glad you made the creative connection between that and the ohv. Looking forward to more great info.

Its been months of measuring and research. Sure my machinist and Manley is about fed up with me BUT looks like all is done now.just need to save up the last bit of money so Manley can get to work on it.lots of work to do before then and no time to do it in:(
 






So, you don't need a different crank? Way to go JD! Great job on this.
 






Haha yeah, you might wanna upgrade the trans quick. I like the m5 for what it is... but I'm only pushing 100ish hp through mine :D honestly I don't think 400 HP is gonna be that hard for ya. 500 might be possible :D go for it! :thumbsup:

Well ill be using a spec stage 3+ and I'm having 6lbs removed from my flywheel.the guy over on rps ran 400+ through his with just a stage 3 and as far as I know its still going(its a sohc so has the HD model).its all about how you launch and shift, no bang shifting!! Lol but yea I see a racing t5 in the future for sure;) o and think the record for a ohv is like 540ish hp think, but it was overseas.
 






So, you don't need a different crank? Way to go JD! Great job on this.

Nope same specs.the width just where the bearing goes needs to be narrowed tho.not by much and stock ohv bearings will be used.if you look at the pic you can see where it flares out at the bearings.Manley took all my measurements and confirmed that it can safely be milled.lot easier than milling a crank or enlarging the big end of the rods.both make them weaker.thats what tom does to his cranks and kits.
 






I also will be adding w/m as 16lbs for a m90 is getting up there in efficiency.could go higher but it would drop off, why I'm leaving it at that number and adding a small shot of nos for the track or as needed.o I'm dropping my compression back down to 10:1 also

This rod/piston/stroke/valve combo will change this motor COMPLETELY! !! Just in NA state it should produce well into the 250hp range if not higher ""SHOULD""it literally will be a different motor.
 






So I've run into some issues. I went to go get new fuel lines made and the guy didn't have the parts in stock to do it.then we got to bs about hose size and he said I should covert every thing to atleast -6an all the way to the rail for the feed.this made me think..I was just going to exstend the old ones..

So I went home and started googling because I did have a concern that my 36lb injectors would be to small.well they may but I called my tuner and talked.he said he didn't think we was very high in the duty cycle last time but may be close now.I told him I planned on water meth and he said that will help because it will richin up the a/f then the injectors wouldn't have to do as much.he said he hates doing that though because if I run out of w/m during a wot it could become dangerously lean.his suggestion was to go to 42lb or add a fmu to up my fuel psi.he said he doesn't like going to big of injectors because of idle and drivable. I also told him I plan on using a small shot of nos and he started to lean more towards a fmu so when I spray if I lose some psi the injectors don't lose flow. so I'm now looking to see what would be cheaper and safer..

Then I started to talk about fuel lines and pumps.he also suggested I run ATLEAST a -6an line from the tank to the rail.he said the feed out of the tank is 3/8 so going bigger would be pointless.said stock lines he thinks are 3/8od feed and 1/4od return.-6an should be 3/8id. He said if was spraying any bigger or going any higher in hp I would have to go to a -8an and make a new feed tube for the tank.he then said that a 255 pump at the new psi of 60 would probably not keep up during nos.he suggested a min of 300lph..

So long story short I'm running a new -6an line for the feed and using the old 3/8 feed line as a return.I also will be returning the 255lph pump and getting the 300lph.still need to do some research if i wanna do fmu or 42lb.



O and I need help!!!

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=3200241#post3200241
 






So finished my swap today.was a pita for sure!!:(I had to remove the upper intake to get the feed line off the fuel rail.once I got the old tank out and intake off it went pretty smooth.I did end up returning the 255 for a 300lph pump also.

Only one issue, I put 2.5 gallons in it and the gauge reads little over a 1/4 tank:(I looked down in the hole and the gas was just barely over the bottom of the pump.its 23 gallons so 1/4 tank should be around 5.5 gallons not 2.5.so I'm going to run it out of gas just to make sure or see what it says.ill probably have to pull the sender out and adjust the float arm, I may have bent it messing with it so much

I swear the new tank weighs about half of the old one especially if you add in the heat shield and all that crap.

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Plenty of room for my dual pipes now;)
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Parts list for lines


Your need two lines..

Summit Racing® Stainless Steel Hose SUM-230615 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing

You will need 4 of these

Russell Full Flow Hose Ends 610020 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing

Filter

http://m.summitracing.com/parts/pfs-10300

Two fittings for filter..

http://m.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220649



And 2 of these

Russell Full Flow Hose Ends 610160 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing

These attach to fuel pump..

Russell Push-On EFI Fittings 611200 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing

Russell Push-On EFI Fittings 611270 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing

These attach to feul rail..

Russell AN to Metric Adapter Fittings 640830 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing

Russell AN to Metric Adapter Fittings 640820 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing
 






Yep there is something wrong with the sender.drove about 20 miles today and it started cutting in and out.I put 2.5 gallons in it so that means about a gallon is not getting picked up by the pump, no biggy.but the gauge still read about a 1/4 tank.so I go and put 10 gallons in it and the gauge reads just above "E" now:(

Its a b2 tank and b2 sender.thought I read it was a direct swap and the sender would work with the explorer or rangers gauge. .ill have to do some more research but it might just be I ####ed up the sender.ill have to pull it out next week when I do my rear swap.just waiting on some parts and to finish my driveshaft tunnel..
 






:-(
Things never go smoothly.
 






Well called currie today to order my cobra break brackets for my rear end and basically they talked me out of it.he said going from a 11" ex rotor to a 11-5/8" wouldn't be worth it.said a ranger is so light in the back that it doesn't need the cobra rotors.said basically that the pad sits in the same place as on the ex rotor so no extra breaking is gained.said the only advantage is the cobra is a vented rotor and how the ebrake is designed. The ranger is so light in the rear that a vented rotor wouldn't even be a gain.he suggested I save the $600 that it would cost and buy good ex rotors and do a complete rebuild on the rear end.he also said or suggested if I was going to spend big money on brakes to spend it on the cobra 13" front kit.I told him I run the dual calipers with 12" on the front and he said he's never heard of that but sounds like a cost effective solution and 12" should be plenty.

So I listened to him and ordered everything new for the rear end including crossdrilled and slotted rotors (same as front)and new mc.also ordered a secret item that ill post some videos of after I'm done;) should be next weekend.ALL parts plus some extra things came to $682 so saved A LOT of money;) the cobra kit was just gonna cost me that:(lol

Worked on the driveshaft tunnel and trying to fit a round tunnel in a square floor ended up being way to hard plus I drilled a hole in my old gas tank so I called it quits. Went back and had him make me a square tunnel. Ill be installing that this weekend.
Old and new, still obv needs to be cut down
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Cool build jd, and pretty cool of Currie to talk you out of spending more money on something you may not need.

AND, are those old school Skyway Mags in the back in that pic? WoW that is a blast from the Schwinn Mag Scrambler days....
 



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:salute:
Cool build jd, and pretty cool of Currie to talk you out of spending more money on something you may not need.

AND, are those old school Skyway Mags in the back in that pic? WoW that is a blast from the Schwinn Mag Scrambler days....

Yea I was shocked he did talk me out of it because I was ready to drop $500-600 on it, he was really helpful and knew his stuff.I thought the rear rotors on a ex was like 10" so that's why I was going to try and match or get them close to the 12" front.

Lol the tires are made by skyway but they are military/ems stretcher carriers for mass casualty buses.its a fun job and nice to run my own shop.plus having a warehouse to work on my truck in and having a machine shop at my disposal is definitely a plus;)

My company
http://www.rapidrescueproducts.com/
 






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