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MAF to Throttle Body Intake Tube First Generation Explorer - Build Your Own

Maybe I'm just a 'old skool dummy', but what does this MAF thingy do? Could you not just put a conical air filter on the left inner fender apron & bypass this thing? I'm embarassed if this sounds stupid.....heheheh :)
 



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ok so im runnin a 92 explorer eddie bouer, no lift at all, sept for the 31's i run. but i was wondering if it would ahve the clearance for the PVC pipe!
cause i know some have a problem, and some dont! so if u could tell me if it would work or not that would rock!
and before i do this, should i go and get the 5.0 MAF or just go and do it now???
im guessing thats a stupid question huh???? i should get the 5.0 MAF....
i jsut did the throttle body mod, where u cut and grind some things, and make it less restrictive, i have yet to see a differance, but thats only cause i burned a hole in my hydro clutch line, so i have no clutch lol! woopsy!
wish i could afford an aftermarket BBK TB that would rock, ohh well, well jsut let me know if the pipe will fit or not, and if not whats the best rout???
 






I think you should go get the cone filter and adapter first. because the stock air box is the most restrictive part. Then go get the 5.0 MAF. Then if you arent happy with the power gain go ahead build then intake tube. i made one of the intake tubes and the power gain wasent enough for me to keep it on there. Actualy it seemed like i have more torque with the stock intake tube. but i the PVC gave better top end.
 






Sooo, using a 87-93 5.0 MAF will net me a gain I can feel?
Also a 87-93 Stang tb is a complete bolt-on with zero issues?
 












^^^^^^^
 






The MAF will swap, using the stock 4.0L sensor. The TB will not.

Change your signature!

You have been asked before.

Now we are telling you.
 






OK, I'll bite

Maybe I'm just a 'old skool dummy', but what does this MAF thingy do? Could you not just put a conical air filter on the left inner fender apron & bypass this thing? I'm embarassed if this sounds stupid.....heheheh :)
Well, first off, I hope you're (not) serious. I'll bite and answer this one 7 months later only because I was taught that the only stupid question is the one you don't ask. OK, so much for ideals :)

The MAF (mass airflow sensor) is a bit of electro-mechanical wizardry which tells the PCM (the computer that controls your fuel, ignition and other things) how much air you're drawing at any given moment; and the PCM -- in response -- adjusts the amount of fuel going to the injectors proportionally.

If you want to know what a missing MAF would do to your engine, go ahead and pull the electrical plug to it. Now start your engine. When it starts, notice how sh**ty it runs? That's because the PCM doesn't think you're getting any air at all, so it adjusts the fuel level downward to compensate.

Oh, and never mind that CEL, which is your warning that the PCM isn't getting something it needs.
 






Air box vacuum lines

Hi.
I want to know wich line do what no the intake box. I mean wich one off the two small rubber hoses i must plug if i put an adaptr and a conical air filter?
Thank you
 






Hi.
I want to know wich line do what no the intake box. I mean wich one off the two small rubber hoses i must plug if i put an adaptr and a conical air filter?
Thank you

I haven't done the entire setup, but I am using a conical air filter, and a 5.0l maf housing. all i did with the tubes that plug in the airbox was turn the engine on, and see if there was any suction...

i want to say one of them went into the heater box? but don't quote me on that.

i just plugged it with a bolt, and zip tied the two together... no problems since.
 






ok mine have no suction so i suspect something faulty then if its supposed to have suction on one of the rubber hose ....thx
 






I was told by a mechanic that changing that intake pipe or what ever any of that stuff will throw the whole unit off of calibration?? that the computers are programed to know how long and wide and how much air can travel through so it knows for the proper fuel/air ratio/mixture... any thoughts on this??:p::salute:
 






Iceking007:

Yes and no.

The calibration programmed into the computer (which can be changed but not that easily for most of us) includes specific data on how a base MAF signal should be interpreted based on temperature, calculated load, engine speed, and other such live data to determine fuel injector pulsewidth for the purpose of optimizing air-fuel ratio. Changing the intake will throw this out of whack.

However, the computer also uses readings from the O2 sensors to calculate how far off the fuel mixture is from optimal. This is done to make the system work well even as the engine and induction system age. The computer then sets a short term trim value, a percentage by which to enrich or enlean the mixture. A consistently (positive or negative) short term trim then is used up adjust the long term trim. Both trims are stored in a lookup table. Most manufacturers have a similar setup but Ford's system works much better than most and will handle modifications that could cause a Nissan to puke up lean codes.

The upshot of this is that while a minor modification to your intake will throw things out of calibration and cause inefficient running, it will not be a problem for long because the computer will learn to adapt fairly quickly.

If, however you have an old O2 sensor that isn't in great shape in there, the computer won't learn things correctly, so it might be a good idea add O2 sensor to your shopping list.
 






so what exactly needs to be done with the two small vac lines when swapping to a cone set up?
 






just find a way to fenagle them in there, drill a hole some were convenient and superglue them in there. The reason they are there is to PROVIDE suction to some were else, l that's why when you take them off you don't feel any suction cause they get it from the filter box.

Oh and the BIG tube between the maf and tb is to pull vapors off the top of the oil reservior and is mainly there for emmisions I think but is a good idea to keep it attached
somehow.


And for anyone having clearance issues you can heat up pvc and flatten it with a heat gun at a fairly low temp. If you don't have a heat gun use an oven at its lowest setting and (carefully) experiment with how much heat it will take. Just remeber to keep the ends as round as possible so as to work with the couplers.

That should solve any clearance issues. If not then try adjusting the hood latch it is movable.

Or just get a body lift either way!:D:thumbsup::p
 






I just did this setup, using a small oil breather filter for

Oh and the BIG tube between the maf and tb is to pull vapors off the top of the oil reservior and is mainly there for emmisions I think but is a good idea to keep it attached

My only problem is I'm not sure what to do with the two smaller hoses that had connected to the top/back of the stock airbox. Also, my engine starts fine, but after like 10 minutes of driving I get a check engine light. Any suggestions? This is the only thing I've touched or modified. Originally, we had test-started it without the MAF sensor plugged in and the CEL came on. Now it comes on after a few minutes like clockwork. Should I try resetting everything with the old 'unplug the battery for five minutes' trick?
 






you should have reset the computer after doing any mods.

Inside the top of the old airbox is a metal piece those two hoses plug into. I removed it and put it on the airtube after the maf and pluged the hoses back in. Works fine.

And Check the connections on the maf
 






Alright, I got the two tubes in there with the o2 sensor (the little metal piece from the back/top of the stock airbox). Still gotta reset the engine computer. Lets see how this works...
 






My only problem is I'm not sure what to do with the two smaller hoses that had connected to the top/back of the stock airbox.

just plug them off. all they're for is to help the engine heat up quicker i believe. one of them pulls a vacuum, the other one doesn't. i just started up mine, found which one was pulling vacuum and plugged it with a bolt.

been going for over a year no problems.
 



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Alright, the lowdown:

I've tried it with the two small tubes plugged, reset the ECU, after a little while driving the CEL comes on.

I've tried it now with the O2 sensor in my new intake, with the two small cables hooked up just like they were before. Now, after 10-15 minutes of driving, the light comes on and then goes off. Then 5-6 minutes later it comes back on. Rinse and repeat.

What to do?
 






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