How to: Make your 99-01 V8 run cooler

[Turdle]

I just thought I would start this thread and let you guys help make it.

I for one have cooling issues on a 2000 Mountaineer V8. Using a scanguage shows coolant temps approaching 230 degrees with the AC turned on max during a day it is needed. Even on a cooler day where temp is "tolerable" , Ambient 80 degrees or so, even with a 193 thermostat coolant temp runs 197-198 at 70mph without AC turned on.

I know a lot has to do with the Winch, bumper and skid plate, however , even with these temperatures, my stock cluster gauge stays right in the middle. everything's good it says.

After doing a little posting in my registry and good answers provided I dug deeper.

96-97 V8 explorers and mountaineers come with a 2 row radiator, and 16 psi pressure cap

98 V8 explorers and mountaineers have a 2 row radiator and 13psi pressure cap.

99-01 explorers have single row radiators and 16 PSi radiator cap.
Here is an LMC truck link ( you can verify at rockauto) for radiator cap. I used this because it is more concise.

http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/fex/full.aspx?Page=57

I will use autozone links for comparison of radiators.

97 radiator . Specs say 2 rows, 2.25" depth of core, 19.45 lbs and, 171.99 in this area

http://www.autozone.com/cooling-hea...9189_0_0?fromString=search&make=&model=&year=

98-01 radiator. clearly less "robust" at 1" depth of core , 16.45 lbs and more robust in price, 193.99 in my area.
http://www.autozone.com/cooling-hea...premium-radiator/352649_0_0?&searchText=b2308

Ok what gives?I'd like to think I know my way around these things but this is relatively new to me. Seems there may be more differences than we know about.



I have a suspicion, hear me out.

98 up also went to external egr-

96-97 have internal egr which passes hot gas directly into the intake manifold.

I think the latter intake ran cooler resulting in lower fuel efficiency, or, they were trying to increase fuel efficiency in the later models by warming the upper intake.
98-up upper plennums have 2 coolant lines, which circulate heated coolant via the heater core crossover tube through the upper intake manifold. I presume they increased the coolant temps as a further "enhancement" to these models.

Since I have a good baseline of temperatures on our brick of a truck, I will update this information when I swap to the early 97 2 row radiator.

Any input is eagerly accepted.

 

[Centaurus5.0]

What year did Ford remove the engine oil cooler? 98?


Kinda maybe relevant:

http://www.fordparts.com/Default.aspx

5.0L; #XL2H 8005-CA - 2 core with turbulated tubes that allows the coolant to tumble which increases the effectiveness of the surface area - 2 core does the same as the 4 core (4 core no longer serviced)

Fordparts.com does not list a different radiator cap for the 98 5.0. Motorcraft RS-76 for all years 96-01 which is 16lbs.

Ford 5.0L Radiator Part Numbers:

1996... F67H 8005-AA (thick 4 core)
1996, 1997, 1998... F67H 8005-AC (thick 2 core)
1999, 2000, 2001... XL2H 8005-CA (RAD-131) (thin 2 core)
1996-2001... XL2Z-8005-CA also pops up

They list all years dimensions as the same:
6.90 IN x 29.50 IN x 31.40 IN

 

[CDW6212R]

My two 98 302 trucks both have the thick radiator. Only my 99 has had the thin one.

Did the early 96/97 coolant pipes(heater hoses attach to four ends) have the tiny nipples for hoses to the intake TB etc? I just ordered one for my 98, I'll pick it up tomorrow. It's $70 but I'm going to need a few of them. I don't run coolant to the intake ever, that's a dumb idea by Ford.

 

[koda2000]

I've installed 3 CSF brand radiators. 2 in V8's and one in a SOHC. They are only one row, but so were the OE rads. The SOHC rad is a piece of cake to install. The V8's are a PITA. If you've never changed one you'll see what I mean. The issue is that the A/C condenser is attached to the V8 radiator. This made it easier for Ford on the assembly line, but a real wrestling match when you're only changing the rad. By comparison, the V6 A/C condenser and rad are not mounted together and the rad is slimmer width-wise.

I'm curious to hear what difference the 2 row rad makes on your ride.

BTW, I have been completely happy with the CSF radiators.

https://autoplicity.com/2914787-rad...MImrrrlI7x1QIVRzuBCh2q9Ao_EAQYAiABEgJps_D_BwE

 

[Centaurus5.0]

The 96's have 2 coolant hose running to the elbow. One just behind the throttle body in front and one next to the EGR in back.

*Fun Fact*
The older RS-76 radiator caps used to have a plate decal that was riveted on. The newer ones just have a sticker.

Just peeked again at my radiator and it's the older (thick) 4 core. Build date 1/96.

Wonder if you could bring an original rad in to a shop and have them custom make a thicker core using the factory reservoirs ends.

 

[Centaurus5.0]

Laminar Flow
- When a tube size is increased (i.e. two one-inch rows), faster water flow is needed. Maximizing the water flow with a high flow water pump and proper pulley ratios will assist in pushing and turbulating the coolant to the outer walls of the tube. Keeping the coolant turbulated by increasing the water speed will help decrease the temperature.

From:http://www.hivolume.info/catalogs/becool2006Catalog.pdf

Have you installed one of these yet?

 

[Turdle]

My two 98 302 trucks both have the thick radiator. Only my 99 has had the thin one.

Did the early 96/97 coolant pipes(heater hoses attach to four ends) have the tiny nipples for hoses to the intake TB etc? I just ordered one for my 98, I'll pick it up tomorrow. It's $70 but I'm going to need a few of them. I don't run coolant to the intake ever, that's a dumb idea by Ford.

You are correct, and I should edit the first post.
This will help explain why my black 98 Mounty didn't have any temperature issues even with the mods.

Laminar Flow
- When a tube size is increased (i.e. two one-inch rows), faster water flow is needed. Maximizing the water flow with a high flow water pump and proper pulley ratios will assist in pushing and turbulating the coolant to the outer walls of the tube. Keeping the coolant turbulated by increasing the water speed will help decrease the temperature.

From:http://www.hivolume.info/catalogs/becool2006Catalog.pdf

Have you installed one of these yet?

I have not. It may be a future option but I want to see what the radiator does. I'll be swapping it tomorrow.

 

[CDW6212R]

These radiators all have huge areas compared to a lot of other vehicles. Most Mustangs for example have cooling issues due to so little grille area, plus changes they make that build more heat.

We have the great area to use, but adding extra objects in front of the radiator will reduce cooling. So the big bumper and skid plate are needed, but it does slow airflow through the radiator. I'm planning to add a large trans cooler, plus an intercooler(another small radiator), so I'll have to work it out carefully.

An electric fan can be very helpful for such flow restricted applications. The mechanical fan with fan clutch is very good for sure, but can the electric fan do any better?

 

[Centaurus5.0]

Some 95-97ish Lincoln Town Car, Grand Marquis and Crown Vics came with auxiliary electric fans IN FRONT of the radiator in combination with a mechanical behind due to the lack of front grill area.

 

[Centaurus5.0]

There is this too...

http://www.no-rosion.com/hyperkuhlcoolant.htm

HyperKuhl High Performance Super Coolant reduces the surface tension of coolant, allowing it to make better and more direct contact with metal surfaces inside engine cylinder heads. This effectively allows coolant to absorb more heat from the engine, and drain it to the external environment via the radiator. This results in a net increase in heat transfer, and net reduction in stabilized coolant temperature, as depicted in the graph above.

 

[Dono]

In my engine bay, I don't think I would have room for a thicker radiator. The e-fan is so close to the crank, I'd have a problem.

Now, I'd love if:
1. The thicker rad proved to cool better.
2. Someone found a e-fan that was oem quality that covered the rad well and could be removed reasonably easily without hitting the crank/pulley assembly.

Don, whats the part number for the heat pipe without the coolant nipples fur the upper intake? My nipples are capped off (boy, that sounds wrong) and I wouldn't mind having an option ready should my upper intake have to come off again.

 

[Turdle]

Thanks @Joe Dirt

Even though Photobucket screwed up the radiator how to thread, I have the images burned into my brain. Rad is out and I am heading for the changeout now.

 

[Centaurus5.0]

The Lincoln auxiliary fan (Motorcraft RF-39) would make for a good oem quality electric replacement. Measured 19"x3.5" if I remember right. I've seen guys install them on jeeps. Should fit within the stock shroud nicely. I bought one, measured it, but sold it before mocking it up under the hood. You can find them NIB (Motorcraft) for around $120.

Between the fans, the controllers, extra draw on the charging system, electrical gremlins in general and random critters willing to nibble on anything it all turns me off to them. Stock fans are cheap and dependable. I run fanless in the winter and love not having to hear the fan whoosh and feel like I gained 20hp but they just ain't worth all the hassle to me but I understand they do work for others.

 

[CDW6212R]

I've been using Water Weter for about 12 years now. That's the cheapest one that helps heat transfer better, and lubricates the WP. I've never measured any change, but typically the dash gauge will read enough lower that you will notice it("R" versus "M" etc).

I'm making it to Ford today, I'll ask if the 96/97 part number is the same for the heater pipes on the intake. Some say they all have the 5/16" nipples, one said they don't. I'd like a choice if there is one, and I will need four for sure.

 

[koda2000]

It seems obvious, but when installing an electric fan I've seen it done wrong more than once, be sure to wire it to pull or push air depending on which side of the radiator you mount it on. Also, electric fans draw a lot of AMPS, so be sure to use a relay (rated at least 25 AMPS) and mount the relay near the fan using appropriate size wire. You should also us a thermostatic switch to control the fan so that it's not running all the time.

I've also found that using a quality full synthetic oil will also lower the coolant temp a bit compared to conventional oil.

 

[Centaurus5.0]

I'm making it to Ford today, I'll ask if the 96/97 part number is the same for the heater pipes on the intake. Some say they all have the 5/16" nipples, one said they don't. I'd like a choice if there is one, and I will need four for sure.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-OUT-OF-BOX-OEM-Ford-302-5-0L-V8-Explorer-Coolant-Crossover-Tube-Sensor/182422269419?_trkparms=aid=222007&algo=SIM.MBE&ao=2&asc=45727&meid=9d72e8d157264cd99fe5c1bc55ee2c93&pid=100005&rk=2&rkt=4&sd=152602736321&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

These one are new and don't have the nips and come with a temp sensor for $40 shipped. He has more than 10 available.

 

[Centaurus5.0]

I've also found that using a quality full synthetic oil will also lower the coolant temp a bit compared to conventional oil.

I agree.

 

[Turdle]

New radiator installed.
You know there's a difference when all the coolant you let out, went in with room to spare, before a burp. I've run the engine up to temp and let it set for a good burp. so far I have added about 1/2 gallon over the previous radiator. It's cooling off again right now.

The old coolant still looked bright green and smelled sweet, so I ran it through a sock and screen before pouring it into the radiator.

I felt so good about the free radiator change out I told the guy at Autozone to apply my refund toward the next guy's parts.
I spoke too soon, and ended up going out for another gallon of anti freeze. Dohp!

 

[Mbrooks420]

Subscribing.

 

[CDW6212R]

I got back from Ford, with some new parts. I asked and got the 96/97 part number for the cross over pipes, unfortunately those are obsolete and nothing turned up. But the eBay.CA did find that listing for the $40 NOS unboxed type, no part number listed.

That one, http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-OUT-OF-...ash=item2a7936edeb:g:N1EAAOSwjDZYexy-&vxp=mtr
... in the USA is $40 as Centaurus posted, and it matches the new 98-01 part I have in a box.

They all have the small coolant nipples for the EGR, so we'll have to use those, or cut/weld and repaint as you like etc.

The old 96/97 # is F67Z-9D424-CA, but nothing but Russian sites came up.

I'll buy 3-4 of those on eBay for $40 each, those will work well.