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How to: Make your 99-01 V8 run cooler

Prefix for threads which are instructional.
Even though Photobucket screwed up the radiator how to thread, I have the images burned into my brain.

For the time being, you can still load those photobucket pics if you either use Chrome browser, or the following add-on for firefox. The add-on reads like it's for Firefox on Android but works for Firefox on Windows too:

https://addons.mozilla.org/en-US/android/addon/photobucket-embedded-fix/

Edit: I forgot that I had to add an extension to Chrome to make it work, that's here:

https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/photobucket-embed-fix/naolkcpnnlofnnghnmfegnfnflicjjgj
 



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There is an electric fan that fits with the thick radiator with the V8, a thread here explains it. It's the Black Magic 190 I think, I have one myself to install I bought with the new radiator. It's a tight fit, but it goes in without major cutting.

You need some anti-freeze to resist corrosion, and 1/4 to 1/3 is plenty to do that. A 50/50 mix has a measurable reduction in efficiency, making the running temps higher. So as much as you read on all anti-freeze containers, that's advertising in their favor to make you buy more of their product. You only need what you need for your location. If you never see -40 degrees(or -34), why run half anti-freeze? That just cost you more money, lasts no longer, and raises the coolant temps, versus less anti-freeze.

A warning story; I've had one problem with coolant, about ten years ago, with my 99 work truck. I had the e-fan not work after washing the engine. I discovered it the next day(high idle), and shut it down, fixed the tripped circuit breaker(marine), and it ran fine then. The washing tripped the circuit breaker which should have not been affected. The loss of maybe half gallon of coolant dropped my anti-freeze ratio to more like 10-15 degrees, found in Winter when the radiator froze(4 degrees outside). That was my fault, I never got around to correcting the coolant mix. The T-stat opened fully both times and luckily it hurt nothing. So having an electric fan has more risk, more required attention and care. You have to keep up with the anti-freeze ratio, really well if you alter it close to your Winter limits.
 






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twin black magic fans, 3 core stock 5L factory ford rad.
 






That looks great, and it shows how good the radiator really is. That small of a fan(2) would never cool a Mustang properly.
 












Funny, what model and engine? We have very large radiators, and the frontal area is great for cooling. The fans are needed for slow speeds but it's minor for us compared to vehicles witha a small grille etc.
 






Tim's fan set up looks like it came off the factory floor. I'd love to achieve the look.
Performance wise, it is obviously doing the job. So, its rated perfectly for the job amperage/btu wise. Its a a perfect fit.
 






I agree the electric fans may work, but for the purpose of this thread, will they make the engine run cooler than a belt driven fan? I have my doubts they work "better".

When I see one used on an explorer climbing a mountain for an hour on a 80 degree day and run at thermostat temp, I will change my opinion.

How to make your 99-01 v8 run cooler. I bet those with no scanguage have no idea what the actual operating temps are.
 






Did some testing on a closed road coarse with a professional driver...
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... using the most state-of-the-art measuring equipment...

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...and have determined...

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87C (188.6F) is what the cent hovers at when cruising 55-60mph (speedo reads 6mph high) on a 67F day. On a few long hills I locked into 2nd and let it wind out under full load from 2,000-4,500rpm. Temp peaked at 89C (192.2F)(!) but justs as sharply dropped to 86C(186.8F) before bouncing back to between 88C and then 87C. 96' 5.0L just hit 83,000 miles, has all original cooling system besides a new Motorcraft water pump and Motorcraft (RT1138) 192F thermostat. Under normal driving with no load, the cooling system should be far from being taxed considering they're rated up to 5,800lbs towing capacity. 186F-192F from ECT is what I'm reading as normal.

Edit:

Forgot to mention I removed my AC along with the condenser thats in front of the radiator.
 






It's more efficient to have the fan an inch(or whatever) away from the radiator with a shroud that covers the entire radiator.
 






The coolant, just like the engine oil, brake fluid, ATF... all have corrosion inhibitors and get used up. This is why your water pump/timing chain cover bolts break off in the block. The original coolant wasn't changed routinely so the bolts that go through that water passage are seized and weaken by rust/corrosion. Pouring in a bottle of something that dissolves rust before doing a water pump might help with potential seized bolts.
 






1996's (and 97'?) had cast aluminum oil pans. 98+ had stamped steel. The aluminum one would (in theory) dissipate more heat from the engine thus taking that heat load off the coolant system and allowing it to accept that much more heat before becoming taxed.
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Same thing with synthetic oil. It reduces the heat made by friction that would otherwise be present if conventional (less refined, less AW package) oil was used, heat that is no longer being absorbed by the coolant. The engine temp should normally bounce around whatever the thermostat is designed to open at. Of coarse noone is saying "because of this part or that oil my temps never get above 150F now". If that happened, you would need a new thermostat because it's stuck open.
 






The stock fan is moving a lot of air around the engine bay as well, not just the radiator. I'm sure it keeps the coil packs cooler. Mustangs 5.0 and SC Thunderbirds had problems with the TFI modules overheating. Some cars came with heat shrinks.
remote_tfi2.jpg


A cowl hood would also help dissipate heat that would otherwise be soaked up by the cooling system. Disconnecting the trans line going to the radiator would help too. You don't need it. Your transmission is not going to get "too cold" with the engine running and the torque converter is spinning. If it's getting to hot, install a larger trans cooler with a built in thermostat.

Engine and transmissions are designed to quickly warm up to or cool down from and stay at a set temp range where the engine will perform at optimal efficiency in -50F to 120F temperatures even under full load at max weight capacity.
 






I agree the electric fans may work, but for the purpose of this thread, will they make the engine run cooler than a belt driven fan? I have my doubts they work "better".

When I see one used on an explorer climbing a mountain for an hour on a 80 degree day and run at thermostat temp, I will change my opinion.

How to make your 99-01 v8 run cooler. I bet those with no scanguage have no idea what the actual operating temps are.

and i truthfully cant answer that. i know when i have datalogged in the last while temps where in the 180-190 range with what i believe is a 180 stat. i also have a higher compression motor, with the supercharger that throws insane heat (the underhood temps are nuts). i just know it keeps up with this motor. i never had the mechanical fan in when this motor went it. i just looked at it as the fans will be going full blast at idle where a mechanical fan will only be spinning as fast as the motor is revving. i just wanted to post that picture up to show how much clearance there is with the bigger rad and electric fan.
 






While I appreciate all the input of this thread, It has drifted from what I "expected".

My intent was "how to make your 99-01 run cooler" with parts available on other models.

Props to @Turdle :dpchug:
 






The electric fans have the potential to do better, but only if the temperature is regulated lower and the fans pull enough air. Reliability is my concern with those. If the power is cut in some way, for any reason, then the temps will spike fast. My 99 with the used Volvo fan and a 180 T'stat, it runs in the mid 180's, in all conditions. I watched it for about two years with the Scan Gauge between the seats(no console). It'd hit a high rarely out of the blue, of maybe 205, say once a week. The device measures the highest figure reached during a drive, and once in a while I'd check it and find that little spike. It was probably at idling in gear for a long time, the T-stat sticking etc, who knows.
 






i just wanted to post that picture up to show how much clearance there is with the bigger rad and electric fan.
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There is a lot of clearance there.

Was just thinking with a thinner radiator, you could probably fit/adapt a sn95 front accessory drive in there and then would be able to install a sn95 centrifugal supercharger kit.

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Could also have a custom radiator made to fit inside (moved forward) of the radiator support.

This would defiantly make a 98-01 Explorer "Cooler". :laugh:
 






You guys are tryin to kill me huh? Quit it with the tempting distractions already.

Besides, I already went down that nightmare road back in 2003----
 






They all have the small coolant nipples for the EGR, so we'll have to use those, or cut/weld and repaint as you like etc.
The crossover also allows coolant to flow up the bypass while the heater valve is closed, which allows coolant flow across the ECT.
You could just use a 4-5" chunk of hose and connect them to each other to retain the loop.

$_12.jpg
 



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That's cool.The pictures on eBay are not clear, hopefully that's the version they are selling.
 






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