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Massive issues! 02 Limited V8

TheRepoGuyCO

Member
Joined
June 1, 2018
Messages
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City, State
Conyers, GA
Year, Model & Trim Level
2002 V8 Limited
Afternoon Folks!
I would have hit the new member area but this was way quicker so I’ll make it as short and as sweet as I can.

I’ve got an 02 V8 Limited with 120K miles that I’m working on for a company I Repo for; this was a title pawn so that’s problem #1 ha! It sat for easily a year and a half before I got my hands on it. I’ve replaced the entire top end to include the manifold and gaskets, Thermostat, valve cover gaskets, throttle body and assembly, Mass Airflow sensor,
Replaced a bunch of connections between the fuel injectors and it’s got all new coil packs plus wiring to go with it. I also dropped the tank, purged the entire fuel system, replaced the fuel filter and pump and some other stuff that I’m likely forgetting.

Here’s my issue - the car won’t rev over 1500RPM’s I took the cats off (disconnected the O2 sensor banks on both sides as well) to see if they were clogged, started her up and still nothing over 1500 even when the pedal is on the floor. If I let it idle it’ll die like it’s being starved for fuel but I’ve got solid pressure at the rail....

Does ANYONE have an idea of what I can do or what I should be checking to see what else needs to be replaced?? My opinion says it’s an easy fix and while I’m familiar with the 4.6 from a couple mustang engine swaps I’ve done; this one has me ticked off ha!
Thanks for any responses well in advance!
 



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Do you have a scanner so you can watch all the sensors for the engine in "Live data" while its running?
 






Check this search result page:
Google Custom Search

The first couple threads, under the ads at the top, show similar situations.
 






Not one that can pick up everything unfortunately - my first thought at this point was the TPS sensor; that’s about the only other loose end I haven’t checked yet
 






Check this search result page:
Google Custom Search

The first couple threads, under the ads at the top, show similar situations.
I appreciate that - however at the moment I’m looking for a quick couple ideas on what to check rather than (no offense) read through a bunch of threads. Sorry; I’ve dumped a ton of cash into this bloody thing and it pisses me off something fierce that it doesn’t run right
Nate
 






I appreciate that - however at the moment I’m looking for a quick couple ideas on what to check rather than (no offense) read through a bunch of threads. Sorry; I’ve dumped a ton of cash into this bloody thing and it pisses me off something fierce that it doesn’t run right
Nate
Probably would have been faster, and surely cheaper, to do a little research rather than throwing money at it. Best bet is to get a scanner and get some helpful data to go off. Otherwise, people will just be guessing.
 






check the crank sensor
 






If you have a laptop computer or can get your computer close enough to make a WiFi connection to the vehicle then get an ELM327 OBDII WiFi adapter. Make sure it's a WiFi adapter because Bluetooth will not work with the free ForScan software. Can you tell us if it's throwing any diagnostic codes? I agree, you probably should have not doing the parts swap out unless you know specifically the old component was faulty.
 












If you have a laptop computer or can get your computer close enough to make a WiFi connection to the vehicle then get an ELM327 OBDII WiFi adapter. Make sure it's a WiFi adapter because Bluetooth will not work with the free ForScan software. Can you tell us if it's throwing any diagnostic codes? I agree, you probably should have not doing the parts swap out unless you know specifically the old component was faulty.

I actually found my WiFi scan tool today - thought someone burrowed it I’ll plug it up tonight and see what I can come up with. I knew the old components were shot as well. The intake was cracked and had misfires on all of the cylinders even after replacing the entire injector harness with a brand new one.
 






Does it idle fine at least?

I was facing some of the same issues and the first major one... vacuum leak.

You really need a scanner to figure out the live data.

Fuel trims will be the best start. Can also be a few issues so keep that in mind.

Did you do an engine compression test while you were at it? (changing the plugs... which I assume you did if you replaced the coils.)

Really sounds like a vacuum leak.
 






Does it idle fine at least?

I was facing some of the same issues and the first major one... vacuum leak.

You really need a scanner to figure out the live data.

Fuel trims will be the best start. Can also be a few issues so keep that in mind.

Did you do an engine compression test while you were at it? (changing the plugs... which I assume you did if you replaced the coils.)

Really sounds like a vacuum leak.

It will idle fine for a couple of seconds then that goes to crap - it’ll drop off and sometimes it’ll die, other times it’ll pick itself back up and idle pretty rough.

I thought vacuum as well - just bought a new EGR tube for it as I noticed the stock one was cracked and spewing out exhaust but that seems minimal to me and wouldn’t in theory cause the motor to idle like it did. I did check compression and it was fine in all the cylinders.

I was leaning towards a vacuum leak as well but couldn’t find anything specific on where to even start with a schematic or the vacuum system; I did the quick smoke test with an inscense stick just to see if I could find one around the throttle body and didn’t come across anything on it -

I still need to download that software mentioned above and see if my scanner will pick up anything more than what it already has. I’ll get a video of it running here in a few so y’all can see how bad this girl shakes. Really is a nice explorer - it’s only got 120K on it so these folks want it running and functional to get the most out of it
Nate
 






So get this... in my case, the EGR vacuum line was missing one of the cables.

Take some pictures and post them here.

Until I was browsing others here I did not even realize it on mine.

Had the very same symptoms....

Only other would be clogged cats... BUT... a simple $20 scanner with live data will tell what the issue is fairly quick.

Also search here, there was a link to a ford paper on how to find vacuum leaks with test procedures.
 






So get this... in my case, the EGR vacuum line was missing one of the cables.

Take some pictures and post them here.

Until I was browsing others here I did not even realize it on mine.

Had the very same symptoms....

Only other would be clogged cats... BUT... a simple $20 scanner with live data will tell what the issue is fairly quick.

Also search here, there was a link to a ford paper on how to find vacuum leaks with test procedures.
I dropped the cats for the time being; that was my first step after replacing all the top end parts to make sure they weren’t clogged....pretty sure they are. I’ll see what I can do with this scanner I’ve got and go from there. Maybe I’ll get lucky
 






Let’s see if this works - this is the gauge panel from the scanner I’ve got - mine won’t register with that ForScan program so I’m using DashCommand which seems to work alright. I had started it and it threw a code for Ignition coil F which I’ll upload a picture of as well if I’ve got it.
 






Load % is only barely sorta kinda not really accurate even if you set it up. Default is: 4 CYL 2.0L engine.....
 






Load % is only barely sorta kinda not really accurate even if you set it up. Default is: 4 CYL 2.0L engine.....
It’s set by the vehicle - shows it as a 4.6 as well in the settings
Nate

2F8656AB-D6B8-4A7E-863B-D3D629D9BB07.png
 






Have you checked fuel presure? Possible clogged fuel filter.
 






Have you checked fuel presure? Possible clogged fuel filter.
I actually dropped it off at a mechanic shop this afternoon; diagnosed it as a bad ECU so it would fire but not stay running
 



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Glade you found the problem.
 






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