motor oil debate.

[Mlarv5]

I use Mobile one and a Royal Purple filter on my GT500. I have read all the stuff on Amsoil and How Great (they say they are) Thou Are and feel it is way over priced for my needs. If you stay with a quality MFG of oil I am pretty sure you will be alright. The Royal Purple oil filter was recommended from a friend that raced alot. The WIX filter are good as well. I personnel don't like Frame filters so I stay away from them. If in doubt do as Ford does and run Motorcraft oil and filter. Keep receipts if you feel the warranty will be denied as well as miles and date.

Have fun enjoy it and don't over think it.

 

[TwinExes]

Bobistheoilguy.com. All you will ever need to know about oil. Several used oil analysis provided by memebers with Ecoboosts. EB’s seem to love Castrol Magnatec. $17 for a 5qt on Amazon. Run a Motorcraft filter. Change intervals vary. Personally I change my 3 EB’s twice a year. 5,000 mile intervals. That equates to about twice a year. I would never pay $70 a change for Amsoil.

 

[peterk9]

There are already several threads on which oils to use, which filters are best, should the IOLM be followed, when to change your oil etc. Like the OP hinted at, everyone has there own opinion and likely no amount of debate is going to change that.
I use the regular recommended Motorcraft dino oil and Motorcraft filter and change it every 6 months which in my case is about every 1000 - 1500 miles. I have driven just over 1000 miles since my last oil change in October and my IOLM is at 60%. Scheduled for an oil change in 2 weeks at the dealership when the Winter wheels come off.

Peter

 

[Centaurus5.0]

I won't waste more time trying to help here.

Yeah, me neither.


Have fun guys,

 

[random155]

Back on topic for the OP... I just changed my '18's oil at 1200 miles. I did a moderate break in, not too soft, not too heavy on the gas. When the oil came out it was BLACK. I didnt see any metallic shavings though. I changed it using walmart materials (5w20 oil with AC Delco filter). I believe that if you change the oil on regular intervals the brand doesnt really matter, just as long as it still effective in the engine.

 

[bigdude2468]

There is zero analytical evidence that doing a break in oil change does anything or changing more frequently than manufacturers recommended interval provides a benefit. The BS about no synthetic from the start is an old wise tale. Plenty of high performance vehicles come from the factory with synthetic. Also no statistical evidence that using synthetic will extend engine life. The only legitimate study I know of was by CR which tracked NY City taxis. Millions of miles, half went the full recommended interval, half went 3000 miles. After disassembly they found no difference in engine wear. No engine failures occurred that could be connected to oil. Also a few taxis were filled with Mobil 1 and in fact one of the engine failures was with Mobil 1. They could not definitively say the oil was the reason. Upon tear down Mobil 1 was no better than conventional. Contrary to common belief today's engines do not run harder, run hotter and work harder than your dad's 65 Ford. If you don't believe that just look at your engine RPM at 65 MPH. Plenty of cars run under 2000 RPM at highway speed, that's taking a nap compared to 30 years ago. Also SN rated oils are far superior to oil from that same time period. Use whatever SN oil you want and a good oil filter and you will enjoy your vehicle for a long time.

 

[Lexingtonian]

There is zero analytical evidence that doing a break in oil change does anything or changing more frequently than manufacturers recommended interval provides a benefit. The BS about no synthetic from the start is an old wise tale. ........

All very well said. Change it when it's still in spec and use whatever you like (with recommended ratings for your engine). I do enjoy doing Oil Analysis to help me dial in the oil I use, but that's personal preference.

 

[KayGee]

This debate is worthless without talk of bypass oil filters.

I'll start a fresh batch of popcorn...

 

[Exit32]

I've been using Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil since it was introduced in the 1970s. I'll do my 2018 Ecoboost Explorer's first oil change at 1,000 miles, then every 5,000 miles thereafter. I'll probably use a Motorcraft (Ford) oil filter on the Explorer, but I also like the looks of Fram Ultra oil filters these days.

One of my "toys" is a 900-horsepower small-block Chevrolet Camaro. It runs the quarter mile in nine seconds at about 150 mph. My buddies and I have been racing this car for more than 20 years, and it gets a fresh fill of Mobil 1 5w30 motor oil (from Walmart) every spring, along with an off-the-shelf ACDelco oil filter.

I figure if my race car thrives on Mobil 1, my Explorer will like Mobil 1 too.

 

[peterk9]

The following thread on oil filters seems to suggest that it is pretty hard to beat the OEM Motorcraft filter; Explorer Oil Filters

Peter

 

[bigdude2468]

I also use Mobil 1 even though there is no hard evidence it will out perform conventional oil. I think what we are dealing with is SN oils that are so good that regardless what brand, synthetic, synthetic blend or conventional will provide more than enough protection. In my 2014 Explorer it amounts to a spring and late fall oil change with 20 - 25% left on the OLM.

 

[steelers06steelers]

Yeah, this thread went to crap. We try to help people to learn how to best take care of a new engine, ... and the answer of the new generation seems to be ... "let the book or a machine tell us what to do." Why ask a question, if you aren't going to actually listen to the answers, and use your brain to decide what is best for you? I won't waste more time trying to help here.

was this directed at me? I am 45 years old pal. I use my brain and life experience to decide that I will change my oil when the factory recommended change alert comes up on my display, not when the oil manufacturer tells me to.
I was asking for oil and filter differences so yes please don't bother to help me anymore.

I am new to these explorer forums but not to automotive forums in general. I have been long time member of ford truck enthusiasts forums among other that pertain to my muscle car hobby, the guys at ford-trucks.com actually suggested these forums when I asked a couple explorer questions. I must say I have been very disappointed with some of the arrogant, know it all, and belittling responses I have gotten on this site. Not only this thread but others that I have asked "stupid questions" on. Some members have been very helpful so to those people I say thank you.

 

[CDW6212R]

was this directed at me? I am 45 years old pal. I use my brain and life experience to decide that I will change my oil when the factory recommended change alert comes up on my display, not when the oil manufacturer tells me to.
I was asking for oil and filter differences so yes please don't bother to help me anymore.

I am new to these explorer forums but not to automotive forums in general. I have been long time member of ford truck enthusiasts forums among other that pertain to my muscle car hobby, the guys at ford-trucks.com actually suggested these forums when I asked a couple explorer questions. I must say I have been very disappointed with some of the arrogant, know it all, and belittling responses I have gotten on this site. Not only this thread but others that I have asked "stupid questions" on. Some members have been very helpful so to those people I say thank you.

My response was related to two posts shortly before mine, from people who pretend to know everything and the prior posts were wrong. I like to help, but as you put it some of the arrogant posts turn me off also. I helped as one of the early responses you received, please read those again. Regards,

 

[1995E]

Just put in 5W-30 oil in it and be done with it.

 

[random155]

Just put in 5W-30 oil in it and be done with it.

Really is the best all around viscosity...

 

[boominXplorer]

I've taken apart and repaired more ford engines then 99% of the people on this forum I'd say. The only things I will add to this thread is this:

Engineering has come a long way and the factory pistons/rods/bearings ect will run forever as long as they are kept wet with oil. I've taken plenty of sludged engines apart with 250k+ motors and have found great cylinder walls and tight bearing clearances as long as the motor was not ran dry on oil.

On the other hand your timing guides ABSOLUTELY HATE deteriorated oil with fuel contamination that starts at about 5000 miles with most oils (unless your always on long drives on the highway). Timing chains are what now ruins engines. Bearing, rod and piston issues are things of the past. Sure there are still some models plagued with certain valvetrain issues but I see many more timing chain issues in cars that have been "quick lube" maintained than people that are on top of their changes using a quality product and making sure the correct oil filter is installed.

FYI the local ford dealer here does free oil changes when you buy the car from them. But......... they use a $.79 filter on your car instead of a Motorcraft one with a check ball. Do your research and make sure your vehicle is getting what it should get and it won't let you down (hopefully).

Oh and if you want to know all my gasoline vehicles have Motorcraft filters on them and I use synthetic blend oil and change them every 3500-4500 miles. I also use 5w30 where it calls for 5w20. Everything I have has over 100k miles on it. My F250 gets changed every 3k miles but only goes about 5k miles a year, it gets basic Rotella T.

Oh and the thing of no synthetic from the start is straight from engine builders. The rings don't seat as well with full synthetic vs conventional/blend because of the size of the molecules lessening drag. Anyone that buys a new car doesn't have to worry about this as break in has already been done, it's the first 10 minutes of the engine running.

 

[steelers06steelers]

I've taken apart and repaired more ford engines then 99% of the people on this forum I'd say. The only things I will add to this thread is this:

Engineering has come a long way and the factory pistons/rods/bearings ect will run forever as long as they are kept wet with oil. I've taken plenty of sludged engines apart with 250k+ motors and have found great cylinder walls and tight bearing clearances as long as the motor was not ran dry on oil.

On the other hand your timing guides ABSOLUTELY HATE deteriorated oil with fuel contamination that starts at about 5000 miles with most oils (unless your always on long drives on the highway). Timing chains are what now ruins engines and bearing, rod and piston issues are things of the past. Sure there are still some models plagued with certain valvetrain issues but I see many more timing chain issues in cars that have been "quick lube" maintained than people that are on top of their changes using a quality product and making sure the correct oil filter is installed.

FYI the local ford dealer here does free oil changes when you buy the car from them. But......... they use a $.79 filter on your car instead of a Motorcraft one with a check ball. Do your research and make sure your vehicle is getting what it should get and it won't let you down (hopefully).

Oh and if you want to know all my gasoline vehicles have Motorcraft filters on them and I use synthetic blend oil and change them every 3500-4500 miles. I also use 5w30 where it calls for 5w20. Everything I have has over 100k miles on it. My F250 gets changed every 3k miles but only goes about 5k miles a year, it gets basic Rotella T.

Oh and the thing of no synthetic from the start is straight from engine builders. The rings don't seat as well with full synthetic vs conventional/blend because of the size of the molecules lessening drag. Anyone that buys a new car doesn't have to worry about this as break in has already been done, it's the first 10 minutes of the engine running.

I Agree with all your comments. The fuel dilution is something that a lot of people don't realize, good point. I change my own oil and I can smell the gasoline in the oil when I drain it. Its not overwhelming or anything but I am also a mechanic, so my nose picks up on different smells right away, motor oil, hydraulic oil, antifreeze, gear oil, etc. I can smell it right away.

 

[bigdude2468]

I've taken apart and repaired more ford engines then 99% of the people on this forum I'd say. The only things I will add to this thread is this:

Engineering has come a long way and the factory pistons/rods/bearings ect will run forever as long as they are kept wet with oil. I've taken plenty of sludged engines apart with 250k+ motors and have found great cylinder walls and tight bearing clearances as long as the motor was not ran dry on oil.

On the other hand your timing guides ABSOLUTELY HATE deteriorated oil with fuel contamination that starts at about 5000 miles with most oils (unless your always on long drives on the highway). Timing chains are what now ruins engines. Bearing, rod and piston issues are things of the past. Sure there are still some models plagued with certain valvetrain issues but I see many more timing chain issues in cars that have been "quick lube" maintained than people that are on top of their changes using a quality product and making sure the correct oil filter is installed.

FYI the local ford dealer here does free oil changes when you buy the car from them. But......... they use a $.79 filter on your car instead of a Motorcraft one with a check ball. Do your research and make sure your vehicle is getting what it should get and it won't let you down (hopefully).

Oh and if you want to know all my gasoline vehicles have Motorcraft filters on them and I use synthetic blend oil and change them every 3500-4500 miles. I also use 5w30 where it calls for 5w20. Everything I have has over 100k miles on it. My F250 gets changed every 3k miles but only goes about 5k miles a year, it gets basic Rotella T.

Oh and the thing of no synthetic from the start is straight from engine builders. The rings don't seat as well with full synthetic vs conventional/blend because of the size of the molecules lessening drag. Anyone that buys a new car doesn't have to worry about this as break in has already been done, it's the first 10 minutes of the engine running.

If no synthetic from the start was a fact then why do many vehicles come from the factory with Mobil 1 in the crankcase?

Nothing personal, I am sure you base everything you are saying on experience but its anecdotal. My grandfather who was a great mechanic and taught me just about everything I know about vehicle maintenance swore by Rislone. He always substituted one quart for motor oil. Over the course of 30 years and several vehicles he had they all ran great, never burned oil and never had an engine failure. THAT is an anecdotal endorsement of Rislone. If you want to chuckle go to "Bob is the oil guy" and you will find all kinds of claims, including this oil or that oil makes my engine run quieter. Do your oil changes when it makes you feel good. As I previously said there is no evidence that changing your SN oil before the manufactures recommendation is beneficial.

 

[boominXplorer]

If no synthetic from the start was a fact then why do many vehicles come from the factory with Mobil 1 in the crankcase?

Nothing personal, I am sure you base everything you are saying on experience but its anecdotal. My grandfather who was a great mechanic and taught me just about everything I know about vehicle maintenance swore by Rislone. He always substituted one quart for motor oil. Over the course of 30 years and several vehicles he had they all ran great, never burned oil and never had an engine failure. THAT is an anecdotal endorsement of Rislone. If you want to chuckle go to "Bob is the oil guy" and you will find all kinds of claims, including this oil or that oil makes my engine run quieter. Do your oil changes when it makes you feel good. As I previously said there is no evidence that changing your SN oil before the manufactures recommendation is beneficial.

Sure some vehicles might come with synthetic straight from the factory. I've never installed a new engine that was completely dry which includes Jasper, ETE and Ford reman engines. They have already been compression tested / ran before shipped and always have residual oil in them and i can tell you this for sure, its not just regular motor oil they use. Both Ford and jasper engines have residual motor oil that almost looks cream in color. I am not sure what process is used in new vehicles but I can assure you some type of additive is in the first run oil.

You are right, I base my stuff off experience. I run my own small shop and Fords are 90% of my business (Mainly because of my fleet contracts). I also like to use a few different additives in some of the vehicles I work on. The bob is the oil guy forums are very knowledgeable when your looking for a 2nd option for a dealer only fluid. Hell I have one work truck that should of died 40k miles ago but its on a strict 3k oil change with 10w40 and lucas oil stabilizer. Its a 302 with almost 300k on it. If I owned any ford 3v engine (4.6, 5.4 or 6.8) I would change the oil early. I don't give a damn what the recommended spec is I sure wouldn't go over 5k miles because of known issues with even minor sludge. I actually have 2 3v engines torn down with issues now in the shop, a 2006 f150 5.4 with 180k and a 2016 F550 v10 that dropped a valve with 86k miles. 3v modular engines keep me busy for sure.

 

[boominXplorer]

Here's a pic of the 86k 2016 v10 engine that has an entire log of his oil changes with 5k intervals. He only uses synthetic and is very particular. Since this is tow truck and it idles for 30 minutes sometimes I've suggested changing the oil at 3500 even with synthetic because the 5000 intervals arnt working. The right side is even dirtier but couldn't snap a good pic.

Most people don't consider their idle time. 1 idle hour = 33 driven miles.