Motorized pre-oiler | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

Motorized pre-oiler

I'm using Mobil M1-301 full flow filters for the engine oil and the ATF. As I recall the stock filter for the SOHC V6 is puny as are those for the 2 valve and 4 valve 4.6L. Larger capacity is another reason to utilize a remote oil filter.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





That's why I asked, I know the 99 V6's still use the FL1A filter, but Ford changed the black adapter(threads) along the 2000 model time. I hate the little FL820S for it's puny size, the 302's have the odd adapter that takes up space and leaves no room for a bigger filter. So yes a bigger one remote mounted will help a lot for extended intervals etc. I expect to need about 8 quarts with two filters. Right now my 98 uses a lot of oil, previous owners obviously didn't take good care of it(I think the valve seals are eating it).

I'm hoping Mobil makes a similar better filter for the oversized(F350 trucks) filter. I bought several Amsoil versions last year, which were at least $12 each as I recall.
 






Below is my planned external engine oil flow diagram.
PreLuberFlow.jpg

The Pre Luber has a built-in check valve to prevent back flow into the oil pan from the engine oil pump when the engine is running. I've decided to utilize the Explorer coolant/oil filter adapter
FilterAdpater.jpg

instead of the Aviator coolant/oil filter shown below.
Adapter1.jpg

I'm not satisfied with the Aviator cold temperature thermostat configuration and prefer the standard hot temperature thermostat configuration. I'm investigating the On3 Performance coolant crossover delete kit for the DOHC V8 that has an integrated Y combiner/thermostat housing.
On3D.jpg

The head fittings include a port for either temperature sensors or in my case a port for the heater hose supply.
On3A.jpg
 












How did you pick that adapter, there are so so many choices, I keep putting off choosing one. There are some that run $50, and others over $100, for essentially the same two port device. I'll need a few for my 302 vehicles.

I have decided on where to place the external filters, and I'll do my 99 SOHC truck first. That I won't have the side of frame available, so the six I'll add will be up front, three on each side. I haven't decided on the oil pump(pre-lube) yet, since the one I have I want for my big V8 truck. I might have to skip it for my mail truck, for now, since I have to start it about 40-50 times daily. I cannot wait for a slow priming process, I'll have to figure out how to work it some other way(I need it to start instantly and drive immediately).

I like that check valve, thanks for the reference. I'll also need one for the pre-lube circuit most likely.
 






The adapter is similar to the one I installed on my 4.0L Sport which is shown below in mock up form.
EBA.JPG

I applied gasket sealant to the ring seal and so far it has never leaked. The main criteria for the 4.6L adapter was the 0.5 inch NPT vertical ports and the correct filter threads. I plan to mount the check valve at the adapter with a short nipple. I wanted to change the pre-luber output port fitting from 1/4 inch NPT to 3/8 inch NPT to match the inlet port and for better flow. But when I removed the out fitting I found that a 3/8 inch fitting would not retain the internal check valve and spring. So I'll have to stay with the 1/4 inch fitting that had no O ring seal which I'll have to find. The photo below shows the inlet and outlet ports with AN adapters and some other fittings for comparison.
ManyPorts.jpg

In my opinion 8AN for the inlet and 6AN for the outlet is adequate since the time to pressurize the engine is not critical. The remote oil filter adapter ports are 1/2 in. NPT as will be the remote filter mount. I want to avoid restricting the primary oil flow between the block and the remote oil filter so I plan to use 10AN (comparable to 1/2 in. NPT) fittings and hose for those paths. I'll have to find a fitting to mate the 6AN pre-luber output hose with the 10AN hose.
 












How much space do you have where you are mounting that filter? I'm going to use the larger Wix 51773 filter, or NAPA 1773, which Rock Auto sells for $6.39+S; https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/wix,51773,oil+filter,5340

That one is almost twice as long, but a lot of people use it in place of the FL1A etc. I got a 51714 from Amazon for $6.60 last year, to see how big it is. They raised the price right after that, but it is a big filter also.

I have an adapter that lets you use an Amsoil bypass filter on the same mount you have there, any 3/4"-16 thread mount like it. It's a short nipple with threads inside and out, and fits the bypass filter. I can use that for my trans and PS for my work truck, they don't need the tiny restriction for the bypass filter, because those fluids should have no debris in them normally.
 






The frame rail at that location is about 5 inches vertically - the same height as my M1-301 filter.
RFRailMount.jpg

The remote filter mount adds another 1 5/8 inches vertically so I'll probably make a plate and attach it to the rail. Then I'll attach the mount to the plate to keep the bottom of the installed filter slightly higher than the bottom of the rail. The suggested replacement interval is 15,000 miles for the Mobil 1 filters which would be every 5 years or more for me. I change my full flow filters annually. I prefer vertical filter mounting.
 






I'm thinking the same thing, make a plate to move the mounting adapter up higher. In the 2nd gen, above that is the emissions hose and solenoid, and the bottom of the battery tray. The right side has the AC line and ABS wires etc, minor things. The plate to raise the mount up might need to be a "T" or "L" shaped thing, the frame rail is not flat on the sides in some places. I like the one year mark to try to get fluids and filters to reach. Then they can be done when I want to, say all of them in the Spring each year, or late Fall if you worry about cold affects.
 






The Derale 25708 didn't work out. The ABS module with mounting bracket above the frame rail interferes with the remote filter mount top port fittings. So I ordered a Wix 24764 remote filter mount with dual side ports (1/2 NPT).
Wix24764.jpg

The dual ports will allow me to eliminate the T fitting that merges the preluber output with the block adapter output. Since there is only about 5 inches of frame rail horizontal space available to mount the remote filter adapter I'll install a street elbow on the forward inlet port.
StreetElbow90.jpg

Attached to it will be a combination of fittings to achieve a -6AN connection for the preluber output hose. The remote filter mount aft inlet and outlet ports will contain 1/2 NPT to -10 AN fittings.
.5nptTo10AN.jpg
 






Good work, details make it a win.

Did you look at the 3+ versions of the TurboWerx pumps? Did yo compare them and think of which might work best?The largest lists it as pumping about 3gpm, to about 50psi. I'm watching the Mini version, the next size down, which says it pumps about 2gpm, at about 30psi. The Mini version has a motor about half the size of the big one, though the cost is the same.

I also liked those multiple outlet filter mounts. Chosen well, those can reduce the number of fittings needed(the "T" fittings), and they can come in left or right outlets.
 












It looks like the Wix 24764 remote filter mount is going to fit so I'll start fabricating a support bracket for it.
RFRailMount2.jpg

The M1-301 filter has a specified height of 5.2 inches and extends below the frame rail so I'll purchase a shorter Mobil 1 filter with the same mounting thread (3/4-16) and approximately the same filter diameter. I may have to install the inboard aft fittings and hose before installing the remote filter mount due to limited accessibility.
 






The easiest way to mount the preluber in my selected location is to use the ABS module bracket protruding studs. However, I needed more exposed threads for a mounting plate and additional nut on each stud.
StudsA.jpg

Note the stock round hole above the stud on the right in the photo. It's large enough for the preluber electrical connecter to pass thru and is slightly accessible from the engine compartment. To obtain more exposed stud threads I replaced the stock integrated nut/washers with slim nuts and washers.
Nuts&Washers.jpg

This gave me enough room for another nut and a 1/16 inch thick steel plate which I cut and drilled for the studs and for the preluber mounting bracket.
StudsB.jpg

PLPlate.jpg

Prior to mounting the preluber to the plate I removed the inlet port adapter and cleaned the inlet screen of the couple trapped metal particles. In my opinion, the output of a preluber that pulls oil from the oil pan should always go to a quality oil filter.
 






Did either of you look at the Infinity Aerospace pump for the explorer or sport 4.0 sohc application ?
 






I didn't because I wasn't aware of Infinity Aerospace's pre-oiler at the time I did my search. Their GP301-12 is listed as 12 VDC / 60 PSI / 3 GPM – 11.4 LPM / 10 AMP CB / weight 3 lbs. For the weight and current draw of the unit I suspect 60 psi is the max pressure and 3 GPM is at no pressure. There is no mention of a pressure relief valve/bypass. With no relief valve if flow is restricted and the pressure increases to 60 psi the pump will probably rapidly overheat and if allowed to continue to run will burn up. I would demand a pressure vs flow graph before buying one.
 






I installed snug fitting M6 bolts thru the supplied grommets and washers and nylon locknuts to mount the preluber to the plate.
PLMountB.jpg

A test fit of the assembly indicates there is a chance that everything may fit in the space available.
PLMountC.jpg

I'm a little concerned about the space available above the frame rail for the two -10AN and one -8AN hoses. I guess the next step is to cut and drill the remote filter support bracket.
 






I'll have to remove the oil shield for the stock oil filter because it interferes with routing the preluber inlet hose aft and downward toward the oil pan drain plug.
OilShield.jpg

It also would interfere with the power steering fluid cooler that I hope to move outboard enough to make room for an ATF cooler.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





The preluber is ready for permanent installation. All of the fittings have been sealed with high temperature red RTV silicone.
PLMountD.jpg

The electrical wires are protected with a corrugated loom and a grommet was cut to insert in the hole after the connector has been pushed thru. I detected a few degrees of rotation of the motor housing when the unit is energized so I installed a large hose clamp over the intersection of the base and the motor housing to prevent any rotation.
 






Back
Top